Ascents as trad by Stephen Winnacott

Not sure of date. With Jason dubbed Bonnington!

Wild

Not sure of date. With Jason dubbed Bonnington!

So awesome! Nicely run out, some balancy moves, then some thing moves, then some real commitment, then drag yourself up to the anchors. Too bad Bruno left the gear and the chalk on... no onsight.

Lead onsight - mixed - cams placed by Jonas. Like a saeries of chapters.

Classic, tech slab open stem corner.

Was all set for the onsight until i ripped some pulleys in my right middle finger 4m from the top, damn mono pocket. I pulled back on and climbed open handed to the top, so gutted, especially after onsighting all the hard stuff.

Pro for the first few moves into the scoops is crap, but it makes for an interesting start.

Intro To Rock ASM Course, top rope.

Crux is pulling from horizontal crack near/in cave up into the right diagonal crack. Can go direct up with left hand but it’s a big reachy power move. Otherwise move left and up into underclings and then traverse right into crack, where you need to swing rightwards to a layback position, move moves this way but lower % moves.

Blew it on the big direct crux move.

Hlafway between a crack and a chimney.

Skipped P1 by walking to base of P2, onsighted P2, belayed Paul on his onsight of P3 crux pitch, then he lowered off and I flashed it on his gear, was either that or clean it on second but I'm stoked to get it clean even if the gear was pre-placed.

Epic route. Ended up doing 3 laps all up, as did Paul, linking it all bottom to top clean on the 3rd push. I pink point the 1 & 2 pitch after a lap working out the beta, then Paul got the red point and I followed it up clean on my 3rd lap, then continued on to onsight the final pitch, parched and glycogen depleted. Good solid day out.

I think I was either weak in the head or this was a scary climb, it was a bit run out but at the time I had bugger all climbing fitness.

Lower section felt good, upper crux hand sequence botched, gotta remember to cross.

Very cool.

My first crack ever. Gloves on - loved it.

Intro To Rock ASM Course, top rope.

Intro To Rock ASM Course, top rope.

Great warm up to E=mc2

Holy smokes that 40m second pitch is mind blowing, it just keeps on going. Super fun twin parallel finger cracks lead rightwards to a short thin vertical finger crack, into an insane finger-locking good crack all the wall up a sustained left leaning dihedral. Take lots of small cams, and small/med wires, and a double rack up to BD2's, there's a couple of wider sections of crack up high before it fully thins out into the top crux before you have to run it up to the anchors. Happy to have sent this second shot, after having done it on second a couple of month prior.

I did it steady, a little aware of fallinng at the top. Thewn Dane came up top rope cruising, and lay backing off the crack! Nice

Nice Dane came up second, awesome job for him, but fell at the beginning and hurt his ankle.

Awesome dyno move i pulled up to static!

Technical at the grade, never thought that was possible for 14!! Beautiful!

Awesome, A little bit of all styles, nice traverse on a tiny cam!

First pitch lead onsight - first trad lead ever.

Don't forget small cams like I did, it's super sketch without them.

Incredible route, has it all! So psyched to get this onsight! Was touch and go there for a bit, it somewhat redeemed my efforts on Wars of the Roses the day prior.

A #5 would be handy

A bit stiff for a warm up but manageable

As good as it gets for the grade.