Ascents by Robert Powell having Trad CPR

Lots of unprotected chimneys, great line, run out. Aided 1st 24 pitch and, which is the normal way these days, and onsighted the rest.

Deserves more ascents. Absolutely classic and great crack climbing the whole way. Easy approach, the F1 slab is now bolted (shame). On the approach, don't climbing up the slab below the F1 slab instead follow the easy gulley on the right into a cave and out of a hole to get to the start of the F1 slab and a bolt to belay off. The 1st pitch is well protected with side runners at the start. Red totem cam provides bomber gear. Only a couple of big cams required (1 BD#5 & 1 BD#6). From the top of the last pitch, continue up the easy slab to a fig tree and an in-situ wire from which you can abseil to the ledge on the top of the SW wall.

Bottom pitches before the bivy were absolutely crap and dangerous. Pitches above the bivy were generally very good with only the occasional death block. The second last 22 is awesome and the last 22 also but a bit grumby.

Good route, better protected than appears from below.

Great route, very worthwhile climbing.