Ascents of License To Climb

What an adventure. Left harbor at 5:30 am. Torrential rain in the early morning. Onsight burn was a lost cause. First three bolts were slick and a few key footholds, all the jugs, and most pinches were damp. Moisture and blind moves made hard climbing; I reached bolt 9. Fortune turned with wind, drying the rock, but the climb remained intensely hot and humid.

On redpoint my right arm locked at the elbow, heat cramp, and I was just barely able to shake it back to execute the upper sequence - glorious! The rock is rare limestone flowstone, a golden line of melted candlewax threaded between crispy, blackened drainage streaks.

Good conditions must be tricky; committing access and a unique environment. I must say that subjective grade is surely condition dependent.

Was disappointed to not send this route but our group just got cooked off the wall. First up I missed the top rope flash by about 1 meter during the warm up and it was looking like it would go down very fast but then the sun came over the the top of the cliff and there was no shade to hide in. We suspect that it must have been close to 40C at the base of the cliff and the wall got so hot that I could not rest my body against the wall on the two red point attempts and yet it was still one of the most beautiful 5 star climbs I have ever tried and is calling my name to come back...the view alone was worth 5 stars but the climb was possibly even better, and what made it great was that the climb really built slowly meaning that the less experienced climbers in our group could still get in 10-15m of amazing climbing.

Excellent route, Top quality, Outstanding, Some blind moves, Onsighted in dry but shady 30 degree weather, with diahorre and a few bees for either added distraction or motivation. I think 7a+ as in the guide is fair.

Blew the onsight last year with a clean rained out TR. Dry is much nicer. Nice techy and crimpy..

Really good but pity about the rain.

Beautiful climb with homogeneous difficulty. Good rest points along the way.

Three times clean today in quest of the extension

One the finest routes you could hope to climb. 1 fall. Super memorable.