Ascents as sport by Scott Godwin

Couldn't resist the temptation to slither into the offwidth where I felt much more at home than laybacking on the outside where the bolts are.

Harder (and sharper and more painful) than in looks. Might be easier than 25, but it hurts at least that much.

Following Baz and Phil. Great moves. Easier than it looks. Should have led it.

Hard. Fell off at the second bolt, and the third. Running out of daylight so I used a devious brass nut to aid through to last bolt.

Soft tick, but nice climbing.

One fall at the second bolt. Worked out it pretty quickly after. Really cool thin, balancy face climbing.

Nails. Couldn't stick the barndoor to the mingen sloping crimp at the bottom, then couldn't figure out how to move off said mingen sloping crimp once I got there.

Tricky balancy slappy weirdness.

That crux is still tough.

Sendage.

Gave myself a good thrashing on this with Nate. Eventually worked it all out. Will be back for the clean lead for sure. Super fun campus traversing, smearing, toe hooking, heel hooking, finished off with a difficult span/mantle thing at the end. Maximum value for such a short route.

Feeling weak and useless today. Still recovering from the session on Orient Express the day before. Couldn't even stick the moves between the first two bolts. Isaac cleaned it up second shot.

First time back in a while.

Closest shot yet. Got all the way to the slopey jug at the third bolt but peeled off trying to reach the arete.

Made it to the slopey jug again but got the rope behind my elbow. Off again. Getting closer.

Warmup and getting the draws on.

A couple of burns with Nate. Worked out a better sequence, but the toe hooks were upsetting the flakey hip flexor.

Unsend. Turns out that a month of climbing big walls followed by six weeks of sitting on your arse eating custard is not a good way to maintain finger strength.

Played around on top rope. Nails hard foot swap/body tension thing.

Very sequency. Got it wrong near the top.

Really good, techy face and arete climbing. The first bolt is in a retarded position though.

20 in Gerry's guidebook, but 22 on thesarvo. 21 seems like a reasonable compromise. Fell off the crux a few times on the first lead attempt, then managed it ok after Baz had finished it and put all the draws on. Arete slapping goodness.

Baffling crux move under the roof to get established, then really good, pumpy arete climbing. Worth coming back for.

Not bad once you get past the ugly dirt chimney start.

Placed the draws on rap. Top roped once to convince myself I wasn't going to faceplant into the lip of the roof, then led. Not the most satisfying approach, but great climbing.

Committing, balancy moves at the crux on terrible feet with a risk (real or imagined?) of smashing your balls and/or face on the edge of the roof if you blow it.. Holds were all a bit dirty/mossy. Probably doesn't get any traffic with the annoying access. Might come back with a brush and clean it up and go for the lead.

Top roped in the almost dark to get out.

Yoyo style, sort of. Fell off at the third bolt, lowered to the ground, left the draws clipped in the interests of time, then climbed clean to the top.

Alziemers onsight. Had top roped it once before ages ago. Fantastic climbing. Must be one of the best face/arete climbs in the gorge.

TR solo. Think I've worked it out but the bottom crux move still feels desperate.

Clean TR solo

First go on lead. Gets 24 on thesarvo, but having done it now 23 seems reasonable. Pretty solid though.

Repeat lap. Felt pretty good.

Still hard.

Holy moly. No idea what to do in the middle section. Danny was a magician.

Don't know why I hadn't done this before. Pretty good.