Ascents as Clean by peta barrett

Mentally exhausted. Physically fine for a good tr.

There’s an easy way, an awkward way and a hard way… second time I found the easy way.

Not sure why I top roped. Was feeling a bit nervous for some reason. After dogging it up on lead I did 3 more laps, 2 of them back to back, all of them clean. Only on the last lap did it occur to me that yes… I’m an idiot… you could have led this in your sleep. And now I’ve blown the chance of sending this. At least it was stress free. (In hindsight, I’d been glutened and immune system was slowly crashing. Spent the last week in Leo sick. Maybe next time…)

Not as good as the first part. Sting in the tail.

Top rope at the end of the day to clean it. It felt much harder!!

Damn. Ah well. Kinda thought my body was done for this trip so tr a couple of laps. First lap clean. Second lap one rest.

fingers were feeling a bit tweaky and the rain had left the rock a bit seepy... but by the time i dropped the rope on it, it wasnt too bad! 2 clean TRs. Was considering a lead but then Alcatraz got taken and its really too close. i didnt want to wait around so hence the second lap on TR

Easier to clean on second. Warm up

One of those climbs where we were sad that we’d probably never get on it again… yet relieved that we’d got it first go as it was mentally exhausting on lead. Didn’t have enough mental gas in the tank to tick another climb so thought we’d run a lap on tr for fun. It’s still just as hard!! 😂😂😂

Pretty new when we did it so dusty and dirty and holds breaking off. It’ll clean up nice though. Took 3 shots but probably because of dirt… and lack of sleep.

One last lap before the rain.

I’m still shit, but this isn’t a 7c….

Torrential rain. Tr just in case… damn….

Damn. Thought it’d be easier to clean on tr and I couldn’t do the crux. It was easier to clean… but it turns out I can do the crux

Not expecting to stay on. Elbow is definitely getting better

First go on this and I figured I’m way out of my league on this until I started to palm down. Got it clean second shot but no idea how I would clip any bolts... I am unfit though.... it might not be an Indication of the climb..

Just.. wow! Beautiful moves, laughed all the way. How did I stay on this???

Amazing climb. Pretty gusty winds today though made it super intimidating. Got blown off at the top on one of the shots.

I don’t remember the second bolt being so far away......

Coming into the sun

First climb in 6 weeks... first outdoor climb since Croatia.. 2 months ago. Not too bad. Expected to have lost finger strength and get pumped.. but no. All good. Turns out that lifting heavy boxes for a job is good cross training...

5.5 laps in 3 lots. Endurance isn’t too bad considering...

First shot putting up the draws I thought this would be impossible. It was either a tommy Caldwell jump sideways move or a Kevin down climb haha. So I didn’t think I could get up it. Turns out I could. Just traversed a bit earlier. I actually really enjoyed this on tr. I think where my head space is now, I couldn’t have lead it. I’m so brain fried. And, being a bit over hanging... I’m going to pay for it tomorrow in my back... amazing climb though.

Didn’t see that coming.... but the light is changing, half in shade now. Can see the feet. Certainly made a difference. Still can’t work out how I’m going to clip though. So far can only unclip above the draw.....

And again! Ok, no more tr after today. Good to get a bit of mileage/endurance without the stress though.

Take the (rational) fear away and it’s a really really nice climb.

In the rain

I know... definitely getting my head into climbing in the sun..... I keep thinking I’m going to pass out. Good climb. Nails!!

Crap... I was really trying a tr as there were a couple of clips I was worried about (and rocks coming off). I ended up having to go past them... didn’t expect to get it clean, however It’s the clips that are hard

Only found out the grade after I’d done it. Still found it hard. Got pumped but probably from over gripping the wet part. Plus I broke off more footers... got it clean though...

oops, probably should have lead it... at least i didnt break off anything else. nice sequence. although, my back was so bad i went back on the drugs.... so probably a wise decision.

thought i would alternate my climbing with a lap of this and a lap of katranemia.

Easier to clean on TR.

Yellow belly... cruised it. Just couldn’t face slipping and getting rope burn between my legs.... bit like the guy did after me.

2nd day with no painkillers. Still not sure if my back can take a fall so did laps instead. Pretty sure this’d go now for sure. X3.5

X3

X2. Tempted to lead.... but I’m still on painkillers....

Well, that’s a bit disappointing.. tweaked my finger joint again. High humidity isn’t helping my joints but my trip might be just delegated to tr. pity, as I got it clean. Hopefully if the high humidity goes and my joints settle, maybe I can salvage something?

Back is definitely feeling better but still taking it easy. Well.... top roping anyway. Really want to see if I can move tomorrow...