Nodes in Angola

Pedras Negras is one of the best climbing areas in the country and a very unique area worldwide. Most similar to Meteora, Greece with conglomerate sandstone/cobble towers rising above the jungle.

Darth Vader is the PG name of this tower, but you will definitely recognize it when you see it. So far, no routes to the summit due to the lip of the 'helmet' surrounding the entire top of the tower.

Powerful moves right off the ground lead to a vertical arête and then easing off to a belay on a large ledge/ramp. The ramp goes all the way around the tower and provides access to the bottom of the 'helmet'.

Sport climbing area established by Rui Araujo in 2012/2013.

Follow the trail from the village well, up and over the rock shoulder. At this point, the jungle is likely overgrown. Find the old road through the flats, angling north, crossing a big flat clearing where no trees can grow and then continuing northwest. Once it opens to another clearing you'll see Paraiso uphill above you. Continue north along the rock, then cut across to the foot of Stegosaurus. Cross a dry stream bed and the ridge multipitch is right in front of you.

Afternoon shade, easy access from the town.

Great fun pulling on cobblestone holds. Last route before the water channel/dip in the rock.

Massive oblong tower close to the road. Overhanging on most sides, except for the South Ridge. Great potential for additional routes on all sides. Incredible summit about the size of a basketball court.

Great casual route to an amazing summit. Feels like gym climbing with a big cobble where you need it for every move. As with any less-traveled route, loose rock can be an issue, but the cobbles are quite solid.

Large flat topped rock near now vanished road into Pedras Negras from the north.

Obvious arête/ramp curving up and left to the top of Table top

Routes at the overlook parking area. Easy access during the wet season.

Fun jaunt up the left angle of the wall

Direct route up the face

Incredible free-standing tower at the leading edge of Pedras Negras. Overhanging on all sides, the tower looks like the mace of some giant cave man.

A striking line up the blunt, NE arete of the Sentinel Tower. Open project.

Overhanging hand crack starting above the P1 ledge of the North Face route.

Beautiful valley with massive granite domes up to 1200 feet tall.

First route on Cunduvile follows the spine to the summit. Other sport routes on the face under the spine.

Climb the ridge in 6 pitches to the summit.

First route on the left.

Second route, following a grove.

More of a hike/scramble than a climb. Follow area description to NE ridge.

Wide province covering the rock band of granite domes.

Wide open area with lots of granite domes. They look promising but upon closer inspection most seem to hold little but grassy chimneys or slabby faces. Perhaps more exploration would reveal more.

There are two main rock formations, roughly 100 feet tall with several spectacular cracks on them. You can find shade on at least one side of the rock at any time of day.

Right-leaning finger crack.

Short, stout, right-leaning meat grinder that is solid hands (with smears for feet) for the first half and then a fairly casual layback for the 2nd half. Definitely need to tape up for the first section.

A beautifully striking crack that looks like it's going to be a pleasant outing of casual jams.

Lodge between Dondo and Huambo.

Surfing destination with a few limestone crags two hours south of Luanda.

Beach crag just south of Cabo Ledo. Limestone rock above the ocean.

Jugs to the top

Sunny beach with drinks and a few so-so boulders.

Medium quality limestone (some of which was quarried) above a very popular expat hangout.

Capital of Huila and one of the few tourist destinations in the country. Higher elevation keeps things cooler during the hot season.

Famous destination for the winding road snaking up the side of the plateau.

Single-pitch climbing along the river between the small waterfall and the big waterfall.

Beautiful yellow sandstone wall above the waterfall.

Project

Two faces of immaculate rock separated by a cave in the middle. Development started in April 2024. Loads of potential for more routes.

Open project. Could be 7b after a good clean.

First route after lowering down from the cave. Starts on some easy blocky moves and gets steeper until it finishes on a knife-edge arete. 2 bolts anchor.

Unlock a fun move at the start to gain a ledge and no hands rest. Follow a big flake up to the anchors. Rap ring for lowering from the ledge, or can be topped out with 8 more meters of climbing.

Can be done in a single pitch on 80m rope. Belay station halfway if required. First pitch 6c. Possible top out extension project with one bolt and double anchor belay.

Powerful boulder start.

Second pitch of Braai Etiquette. Could be done ground up. Estimated 6c+/7a

Tall, vertical red sandstone wall between Miradouro and Yuba City. Walls are around 6 pitches tall.

Area in front of the restaurant.

Yellow/orange wall below the overlook. Climbs from a ledge through a few horizontal cracks in to two parallel vertical cracks. Avoids the small roof near the top by moving right and finishing up an easy face. Early morning shade.

Scramble down below the overlook to below a small tree. Rappel of the top anchor to a ledge below with a belay anchor. Gear to 2", top and bottom anchors

Start stemming a chimney and continue up a face. Shade until noon. Rappel from anchors located on massive boulder at the summit. Large ledge at belay.

6 pitches of climbing from the bottom of the canyon. Trad/natural anchors.

Shorter walls and ledges with good potential below the road to the gorge. Faces west and has morning shade.

Small collection of routes below the road to the gorge.

Start on the boulder just right of the bolt line. Pick the right crimps and small feet to pull through the crux.

Last crag before the gorge, forming a corner with the main wall. Short walls with easy access.

Side canyon at the far end of cliff.

Easiest routes in Serra da Leba. Long, fun climbing on a vertical face.

Furthest left route at the crag. Climb left of the tree on the wall. Rap rings.

Climb right of the tree on the wall up cool rock features to the top of the cliff. Rap rings below the cliff edge or possible to top out to a two bolt anchor above the edge.

Fun moves up the middle of the cliff.

Furthest right route at the crag. Skirt around two bulges on easy moves to the ring anchors. Closely bolted.

Small cave with a horizontal roof.

Left line 5 meters left of the cave. First 3 bolts pull through a tricky start to a good rest. Full value pitch with the anchors at 35 meters. 70m rope required to lower.

Right line 5 meters left of the cave. Full value pitch with the anchors at 35 meters. 70m rope required to lower.

Stunning clean face visible from the north side of the gorge.

Viewpoint on the edge of the plateau cliffs to the northwest of Lubango. 100-300m cliffs overlooking a beautiful valley.

Desert province in the southwest of Angola.

Beautiful resort/campground. A massive monolith of rock in the ocean has a few nice DWS routes. An interesting sandstone formation on the beach has potential for bouldering.

Tall overhanging sandstone wall on the south side of the beach. Can be very dusty so borrow a broom to brush the holds.

Long boulder problem in the overhang. Rock can be very dusty so borrow a broom to clean the holds. Left side of the rock formation.

Iconic rock monolith a few meters off the beach. All 4 sides have DWS routes with varying degrees of difficulty. High tide is best for getting on to the rock but the water is deep enough at low tide too.

Easy scramble on big jugs to the top. South side of the rock.

Steeper (better fall in to water) than the south side, with just as big jugs to the top. West side of the rock. Get on the rock from the south side and traverse right around the corner.

From the base of the north side, follow a flake up the center of the rock on to big jugs above. Watch out for crabs that like to hide in the pockets. Best to climb in high tide being mindful of the rock at the base and an underwater rock 6m to the north. Swim to the base of the north side.

Steep climbing with decent holds and a safe fall in to deep water. Swim to the base of the north side and then climb left to the overhanging east face.

North of Luanda, a handful of granite towers await exploration.