Topo #1155

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Route Grade Popularity Style
5.3.3 * The Prow

As for StS to the break then up the arete, making sure your photographer is ready for when you whip. Start: Start as for StS.

26 Mixed 30m, 6 Unlink route
5.3.4 ** Station to Station

Up to strenno corner (BR), then R onto ledge shared with TC. Up past mashie (ignoring rurp out left), traverse L to crack and up it, then L and up face past BR. Start: Start 2m L of TC.

25 Mixed 30m, 2 Unlink route
5.3.5 *** FinaI Departure

Up StS until it hits the arete then move R and up past 3 more bolts. Start: Start as for StS.

27 Mixed 30m, 5 Unlink route
5.3.7 *** Thunder Crack

Wander up the crack to the top. Start: Start under the obvious main crack on the L side of the S face of 'Bluff Major'.

20 Trad 30m Unlink route
5.3.8 *** Despatched

Groove past bolt to stance. Move R to next bolt then go up until you're under the roof. Now go 8m R and down a bit to a rap station. Old schoolers can top out, everyone else can take the easy option and rap off. Start: Start just R of TC.

24 Mixed 40m, 2 Unlink route
5.3.15 * Unrequited

Crack to pocket, R to jug, up to break. The pro is not great. Start: Start 15m down R of TC.

22 R Trad 20m Unlink route
5.3.17 ** Required

A more fingery version of Slopin' Sleazin' perhaps? Start: Start just R of 'Unrequited'.

28 Sport 15m, 3 Unlink route
5.3.16 ** Requited

Straight up the awesome headwall above 'Unrequited' past bolts, to the 'Despatched' lower-off. Start: Start at the top of 'Unrequited'.

27 Sport 35m Unlink route
5.3.22 * Lust in the Dust
20 Trad 30m Unlink route
5.3.21 ** Bulger

Start: Start down R from RT. 1. 30m (-) Traverse R then up pedestal, then go up R to an easy corner to a ledge. 2. 30m (15) The steep corner crack, with airy hand jamming.

15 Trad 60m 2 Unlink route
5.3.24 Dire Straights

As for 'The Keyhole' then take the steep crack 3m L of 'The Keyhole'. Once in the alcove above, take the steep juggy R wall. Start: Start as for 'Keyhole'.

19 Trad 30m Unlink route
5.3.26 ** The Keyhole

Start about 50m uphill from John\'s Pinnacle, under the obvious cleft in the south face of the 'Bluffs' which divides 'Bluff Major' and 'Bluff Minor'. Up 4m juggy wall, go R underneath roof for 5m, then thrash up the obvious slot. Exit to the north onto 'Blockbuster' Ledge.

10 Trad 25m Unlink route
3.4 * Mouse

Chimney out above the 'Keyhole' towards 'Central Gully', then move around arete onto the south face of 'Bluff Minor', which is easy but exposed, to bag the summit. Start: Start at the top of TK, at the south side of the slot.

7 Trad 45m Unlink route
3.6 * Raison d'Etrier

Start: Start on the ledge R of 'Locksmith' (which is also the start of pitch 2 of Vixen). 1. 10m (22) Crack through roof 2. 20m (22) Mantle at 5m then delicate wall.

22 Trad 30m 2 Unlink route

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