Routes in Ali's Area

A climbing route that follows Ali's, then goes up to the top of Bard Buttress. Not great rock but a great position. Start 10m left of Ali's.

1. 55m 8. Ramble up the slab for ~20m (minimal pro). Clip a bolt on Ali's, and cross to the R, over a small lip, onto a ledge at the base of ridgeline going up Bard Buttress.

2. 25m 10. Traverse R onto the arete/ridgeline, and follow the ridge to the top.

This is just one of innumerable soil-to-summit enchainments of Arapiles which have been enjoyed by countless parties since time immemorial, and which are best left as a choose-your-own-adventure. See the FA notes if you really want to know how this one goes.

Probably the most descended route at Arapiles (by abseilers using Ali's rap anchor). May also be the least ascended. Start 5m L of Ali's.

Climb the corner system, which these days is laced with long lengths of fixed chains to ease the way for soloing (this being the fastest way to get up to the Bluffs climbing areas). If you do decide to solo up or down it, don't underestimate the polished rock and the deathfall potential; consider using a suitable running tether. Start 15m R of Bygone, under the huge left-facing corner system, behind Fang Buttress.

Start 1m left of Nursery Rhymes. Climb the funky roof to the left of Nursery Rhymes' crack passing 2 bolts. Join Nursery Rhymes on the arete and follow this to where it moves right. Move left instead passing a third bolt to gain an enormous hanging jug and a cramped rest. For full value avoid the temptation to bridge out left. From the jug step back right and crank a short boulder past a final bolt before finishing straight up the delightful headwall above. Bring a full set of wires to supplement the bolts.

Start as for Ali's. Attack the awesomely steep arete just R of Ali's, starting with a roof crack, R to a bulge, the crack just L of the arete, R along a break and up the arete.

Up the diagonal crack of Meanderthal, then instead of traversing R continue up the arete.

Start as for Directathal. Then what? (Maybe it takes the middle of the bulge then the face R of the arete, staying between Directathal and Meanderthal?)

Start as for Ali's. Take the L leaning diagonal crack on the R side of the arete, then traverse 5m R to steep jugging.

Up the corner of Sisyphus to ledge, then head up L on red wall.

Start at Ali's.

1. 26m (9) Traverse 5m R then juggy corner and into cave on Orpheus (which is described in the Bard Buttress area).

2. 18m (12) Bomb-bay chimney as for pitch 5 of Orpheus then traverse R (probably better to go left instead and continue up Orpheus).

3. 20m (9) Nasty wall, then R, watch for loose blocks.

4. 16m (9) R, then over big block.

Follow Sisyphus for 15m, then begin a long traverse. Pass Orpheus and Eurydice's 2nd belay, and reverse THE traverse on Bard. Now downclimb the Bard.