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Routes in The Devils Circus

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Showing all 18 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
24 PHM3

Short, ugly looking route on the left end of the cave. Actually climbs quite well. Very well bolted!

FA: Martin Pircher, 2013

Sport 10m, 6
28 Megs 28

Megan has sent this after a long term siege. 27/28? Still waiting for the name and grade.

FFA: Megan Turnbull.

Set: Megan Turnbull.

Sport
26 False Prophet (aka Neighbour of Doom)

Boulder start in the cave immediately left of Circle of Doom. Heads right at top to share last bolt and anchors with its neighbour.

FA: steve grkovic

Sport 10
26 Circle of Doom

Awesome climb of mixed styles. Can seep after long periods of rain.

FFA: Megan Turnbull, 2009

Sport 15m, 8
27 The Dark Hour of Reason

R of COD. A sustained and crimpy start then easier head wall on amazing rock. Good climbing.

FFA: megan turnbull, 2009

Sport 15m, 8
27 Cavern Fever

Right of TDHOR. Hard start if you are short but nice after that.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2010

Sport 18m
28 Gods Forgotten Brother

Unfortunately a very difficult start has to be contended with before you can enjoy the fun and sustained climbing through the roof and up the attractive headwall.

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2010

Sport 20m, 8
28 Perch, Search and Lurch

Starts from the stone pyramid at the back of the cave. Generally steep and pumpy climbing, but with a very hard sequence off the halfway ledge, aptly named.

FFA: lloyd wishart, 2009

Sport 18m, 11
31 Fast Forward the Future

Shares the same first bolt as Perch, Search, Lurch, then right to underclings in the ceiling and a crux sequence that has repelled many. Great steep climbing to the anchors. May be an easy tick if you are adept at toe-hooks or unusually tall.

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2011

Sport 17m, 8
Victim of Imagination

The direct start to FFTF. The twin underclings in the roof look V11...

Set: Steve Grkovic

SportProject 17m, 8
29 Mr Fast Forward (Link-Up)

A link of the Mr Redeemer start to the 5th? bolt then traverse a rad ironstone break into the upper crux of Fast Forward The Future.

FA:

Sport
27 Mr Redeemer

Steep and ultra sustained roof climbing with long moves. One of the most immaculate roof climbs in the Blueys. Has permadraws for bolts 2-6 (Oct 2021).

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2009

Sport 18m, 10
27 Epsilon Asylum

The hard and confusing start has deterred many but stick with it as good value climbing is the reward above. The sustained top headwall crux will have your arms screaming but your face smiling.

FFA: Steve Grkovic, 2009

Sport 18m, 10
29 Zodiac Youth

Good all the way, with a hard start and finish. Once you have a draw on the last bolt, most people find it easier to skip the awkwardly placed 2nd to last bolt. Can be linked into the top of SBA to give an easier finish (about 27-if you can get off the ground).

FFA: steve grkovic, 2010

Sport 18m
30 Space Between Atoms

A popular and sustained climb. Low first crux and sustained top half, a little slice of Nowra.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2010

Sport 16m, 8
29 La Nina

A long move at the second bolt, then superb climbing to a bouldery crux. Be prepared to get frustrated if you are trying this one during a La Niña weather pattern.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2011

Sport 15m, 7
26 Justifiable Actions

Short, with a bouldery mid-height crux and potential to fall off the finish.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2012

Sport 10m, 6
26 Random and Unusual Fusion

Shares the same anchor as JA. A sustained and fun route: yes, you can get pumped in just 10m!

As of 27/8/17 the large shale jug at the second bolt ripped off and the pinned edge is moving. Please don't climb until fix.

FFA: steve grkovic, 2011

Sport 12m, 6

Showing all 18 routes.

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