Ascents of The Sweetest Dream

Accessed by climbing up Oedipus P1 (awful) then traversing across to big ledge a short climb up to the U bolt belay (#1 and #4 cam used). Pat onsighted the route and I followed up on up and got to the beginning of the overhanging Traverse where I unfortunately snapped off 2 smaller holds and then one large critical hold which sent me on a big winger. Had to jumar up and then bolt to bolt the rest of the overhang. From the anchors we decided to continue up the buttress on easy but runout sketchy ironstone (one #1 cam used) to a big ledge with loose rocks. From here I belayed Patrick up and then he went left following choss (#3 cam) to a carrot bolt in corner and then across the unprotected traverse (#1 and #4 cam after traverse) which took us to the sweet dreams P3 anchors. Climbed out sweet dreams.

Very easy for the grade (23?) but the admin-factor is a mission. The gymnastic steep climbing and exposed position is cool, but the rock is grainy razor-blades, in need of a healthy dose of hammering to get rid of what is -clearly- gonna go if anyone pulls on it. We accessed by a roped traverse from below "weakened worriers" on Bentravato, then up the start of P3 of Oedipus to the belay (via a carrot bolt (bolt plate!), #4 Cam and Giant Wire (substitute with Small-medium hex), and to clean we back-jumped the entire route and down-climbed Oedipus.