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Routes in Upper Tier

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Showing all 10 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
19 Bela Lugosi

The line of rings and a thread just left of the corner up to DRBB lower-off.

The bolts are in a straight line but the climb wanders. Start up the corner, traverse to clip the 1st bolt then return 2m right and up to cave, traverse horizontally past 2nd bolt and up 2m left of 3rd bolt to thread, can supplement with cams. Clip 4th bolt and easier ground left to large ledge. Runout unnerving sandy rounded edges up to lower-offs,.

FA: J Allwood & C Allwood, 1999

Mixed trad 25m, 4
19 The Big Corner

Name says it all. You can traverse to 'Bela Lugosi' anchors to get off.

FA: J Smoothy, 1980

Trad 25m
23 Tower of Song

Single ring lower-off!

Start: Start 2m left of 'Nudity'.

FA: P Lawler & P Beggs, 2000

Sport 30m
19 Nudity

Good climb. Undercut start at large gum tree. 7 ring bolts up to DRBB lower-offs. Take 2 yellow (BD #2) cams to protect the 4-5m runout either side of the last bolt, also take 3 extra quickdraws to extend the 2 cams and 1 bolt under a lip. A 50m rope is sufficient for lowering with ~4m spare.

FA: S Squires & D Geraghty, 1997

Sport 25m, 7
21 Route Rustler

The obvious undercut crack. Head for a fixed hanger on a sharp nose then left and finish up 'Nudity'.

FA: J Clark, 1998

Mixed trad 15m, 3
20 Batting Coluzzi

When you scramble up from the lower cliffline you arrive under a nice orange and grey wall. Up the rounded undercut arete at the right end of this wall, heading right. Watch out for loose block.

FA: J Allwood & P Beggs, 2000

Sport 12m
18 AID:A1 Children's Hour
Aid 15m
19 Kamikazee Jumbos

20m right of Route Rustler is a short dog leg crack, that is trickier than it appears.

FA: Stu Dobbie, 2005

Trad 15m
25 (Unknown High Arete)

50m L of the Tower of Song wall is a high, hanging arete. This route traverses R out the lip of the roof towards the arete then up to DRBB. One carrot and two U-bolts.

FA: Presumably Saul Squires?

Sport 20m, 3
(Unknown Orange Wall FHs)

About 5m left of previous route is an orange wall with messy glue-in FHs leading to an upper bulge, complete with tatty tape thread.

Sport 20m

Showing all 10 routes.

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