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Access: Access road closed for upgrades

Perrys Lookdown access road and picnic area will be closed for upgrades from Monday 9 October to Wednesday 20 December 2023 and from Monday 5 February to Friday 23 February 2024.

https://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/things-to-do/lookouts/perrys-lookdown/local-alerts

See warning details and discuss

Created 5 months ago
1 27 20m
2 19 37m

description

Orsum Rock And Nice Gear Everywhere - Just Ask Mikl (O.R.A.N.G.E. J.A.M.)

The awesome crack 5m R of the start of Slipstream. Can be done in one pitch but be careful with rope length. This nook is surprisingly hot on sunny mornings; e.g. if the Boyce maximum is 7C with 30-50km/h W-SW wind, you will be too hot here in the sun. The route goes into shade about 1pm.

  1. 20m 27 The crack, to DRB. Lots of thin gear, some is not easy to place on lead.

  2. 37m 19, dirtier but easier. 1 FH. U-bolts and carrots at back of ledge for belay.

Walk 20m L and finish up pitches 3-5 of Slipstream.

Route history

2010Route setter: Mike Law
Jul 2012First ascent: Monique Forrestier

It's complicated. Mikl gave it a "light clean" for a couple of hours in 2010, then Monique and Simon Carter spent several days (!?) finishing the cleaning, and Monique lead it with one fall, in July 2012 then went away for 2 weeks.

Monique later climbed it free, placing gear, on 7-Oct-2012.

12 Aug 2012First free ascent: Zac Vertrees & Macciza a.k.a. Macca

'Controversially' freed 12-Aug-2012 by Zac Vertrees according to his belayer Macca's online report.

Warnings

19 Nov 2023 Warning Access: Access road closed for upgrades

Location

Lat/Lon: -33.59871, 150.34610

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

27,19 Assigned grade
25 Macciza a.k.a. Macca
26 private
26 [25 - 27] -- grAId

ethic

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

inherited from Blue Mountains

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 86 from 12 ratings.

Difficulty - 27

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 2 ratings.

Suggested Grade

26
27

Based on 2 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 1
Red point 5
Pink point 3
Attempt 13

Comment keywords

short sharp crack rest epic smooth face fingers feet easy nice cool stoked classic rad super great brilliant awesome good beautiful solid crux desperate pumped sustained hard fall tricky intimidating

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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