Ascents of Samarkand

With Neil, led 3 and 4. Several rests seconding second pitch in the final 8 metres. All else clean. The light on the waterfall was brilliant

The best Trad Multi in the Blueys? Every pitch has something RAD to recommend it. Great gear, great rock, amazing position. Steep! P1 - Clean 2nd (funky corner and slab); P2 - 1 fall at the end (last 5m) when I placed a cam in the crucial slot and tried to carry on (extremely steep varied corner and crack); P3 - Clean 2nd (strenuous tips laybacking); P4 - Onsight (Enjoyable easy steep stemming); P5 - Clean 2nd (great, sustained vertical crack climbing). Thanks JengA, this one was Mega!

Seven shades of awesome! Bob McMahon's account of the first (aid) ascent had us fully psyched for an epic adventure but, as other commentators have said, the free version is now a well-protected and mostly solid exercise in steep, intimidating and superbly-positioned trad climbing. Led the even pitches with a rest at the P2 crux and seconded the odd pitches clean. Didn't bother with the top pitch. Thoroughly recommended.

Finally got around to giving this awesome trad multi a crack with William Skea, what a super route! Very intimidating, the position, and the committing access, but the climbing itself is amazing and well protected. P2 crux is quite tricky when it goes to steep thin hands just before jugs! Only needs one extra handjam to make it a 23. We rapped in, using a lot of directional pieces on the middle pitches. Should have taken more bolt plates biners and slings for leaving on anchors. Highly recommended!

The best multi I have ever done and one that keeps with my trend of achieving climbing 'firsts' in intimidating locations. I onsighted the first pitch which was rather gripping but probably quite easy at the grade, giving me my first Trad 23 and then, after belaying Paul's ultra solid send, almost almost scraped the crux pitch clean on second. I slipped off essentially the last move of the crux right at the end of the pitch despite feeling quite solid. After one false start I pulled on and mantled up to the belay. This pitch is all time!! featuring unlikely steep climbing at about grade 22 all the way until the intimidating and awesome final crux sequence; The best!! I then led and onsighted the third pitch (having told Paul I wanted to lead the layback that Ben Cossey is climbing in the TNF ad in the guidebook), a significantly harder 23 than the first pitch but ultra rad and super demanding for the section of real climbing before it turns into a ramble to the belay. At this point my head was pretty gone and I was feeling exhausted so Paul said he was happy to lead the last two pitches, an offer I gratefully accepted and I managed both of these clean on second with a major fight to keep it together on the final pitch as my lack of day-endurance took its toll and I found myself pumped stupid.

All up it is probably one of the best days of climbing to be had in the Bluies and I would highly recommend it to anyone who can muster the psych!!! Get on it!

Gem of Piercess Pass! Unforgettable ultimate experience. Every pitch has it's own character. Love it!! Pitch I. ok rock with ok protection Pitch II. hardish beginning on wet rock but protected with bolts then stunning climbing with crux at the top bomer gear Pitch III. hardish for those with fet fingers overhanging layback finger crack (well done Vladi for first 23 and in OS style) Pitch IV. open book corner crack, nice cruise for Martin Pitch V. last pitch but forget it is over game is still on

Samarkand sundays! Get around it! Total flail fest to practice aiding. Boy this line its overhung it is so cool!!! Pretty aid able all clean gear. Stubbs took a 15m whip on the last pitch at 10pm blowing 3 pieces. Haha Loose.

So close to the onsight!!!! Tried to straight-in jam the .75 crux rather than doing 3 layback moves to the fingerlock 🤷‍♂️ Oh well. Should go with the right beta next time.

Anyway. Great climb. Not too hard for the grade. Excellent locations.

Listed gear beta is spot on. Definitely don't need the #4 though.

Unforgettable, astonishing...........wow !!!!!!

The start of the 25 pitch was so difficult for me. I eventually figured out a way after sitting on the bolt, back and fourth. I was so exhausted after all this I ended up sitting on gear and pulling on gear several more times throughout the rest of the pitch.

Happy I was able to climb all the other pitches clean.

Outstanding climbing on every pitch

I'd dreamed for quite a while of doing Samarkand, but it seemed very daunting because of the sustained difficulty of the pitches, tradness, and the difficulty of bailing after pitch 2. Even climbing with Monty, who'd done it before, I was still nervous about being caught in the sun in the afternoon if we were too slow; it was a very hot, humid day. We met up at 6am and were rapping in by 7. Monty rapped on a 50m rope and could not reach the anchor he was aiming for and had to prussic up to the one above. From there we made it to the bottom in two more raps without further difficulty. We saw Evan down there re-bolting the first pitch and the start of the second. I led P1. I'd like to claim it as my first 23 trad onsight, but there is no way it's 23. I really think it's only 19. Also, I only used one brass nut to protect it, along with more standard gear. I hauled our water and excess gear before belaying Monty up. I led P2 as well. The boulder problem at the start was very slimy and I didn't bother trying to get it free; we were in a hurry after all. After falling off a couple of times I aided through. The rest of the pitch was excellent: steep and exposed with good moves and good gear. I also French-freed the top crux because of slimy holds. I want to go back to try it again. Monty led pitches 3 and 4, and they were a joy to second: really great climbing with a great view. I led pitch 5, and although the difficulty of the climbing wasn't very high, it was hard to find good gear and I pumped out trying to get a nut to seat properly in a pretty bad spot. After a little rest I went to the top. We were out just after midday and were welcomed to lunch ledge by hundreds of march flies and another type of smaller black fly that was also bitey.

Such a great climb. Every pitch is very unique. Happy to second Ivan and not to spend all the day trying to place gear. P2 very hard to do with a backpack on your shoulders and a bit annoying to second due to the steepness of the route. A part from that all the rest has been climbed clear. Thanks to my Czech friends for the static rope and all the betas

A great day out in lovely weather. The climb felt much less serious than last time and was just a lot of fun! I was pleased to climb all pitches clean except for the top crux of P2, which I couldn't do at all, even after pulling on and trying maybe three times. Jammies would help next time. I think that P3 is no harder than P4 or 5 and should be graded 22. Zac did very well to climb through the top crux on P2 after a little rest and to onsight P5. We didn't bother doing P6.

Wow - lost for words really, life changing day what an incredible adventure. Strong friendship! Truly looking forward to the next time, albeit the thunder storm

Need to work my thin hand jams for the p2 crux. Got too pumped and took the whip. Otherwise all other pitches went free! Will come back next trip for the all free ascent. Awesome exposure and good placements! Was sitting bricks walking up to the route but the nerves died as we got higher. The belay jacket was a necessity as temps were in the low single digits with blasting wind, such an awesome adventure that I'll remember for a very long time.

Went on this one firstly to support Anton's Redpoint of P2 but also to redpoint P1P3P5 which I only seconded in the past. It was meant to be an easy day out on easy terrain as I'm still recovering from finger injury. I didn't realised how tired I was from the day before jumaring all day. P1 was awful, super wet and struggling with Anton's rack. P2 was a great success as Anton's marathon ascent ended up in a redpoint, not so much for me. The haul rope was stuck in bushes and pulled me down the whole way, struggling cleaning gear was hell, running on empty at crux, still managed. P3 lead layback was hard as I didn't recovered from P2. P4 seconding was relaxing finally no struggles. P5 was beautiful until the wetness. Then it was ugly in every ways, the clipping jug for the second carrot was dripping wet and I had a mental breakdown holding the draw momentarily to clip then carried on climbing swearing my head off. Then topped out climbing on my knees in the mud grasping at trampled grass tufts contemplating falling off backwards, I was broken inside out. A day to remember.

a last minute adventure.

and a brilliant one keen to get back for the full tick.

Ange bloody killed it going for her first attempts.

we didn't do the first and last pitch 25 2 sits 23 1 sit 22 clean 21 clean

so much fun and way better than aiding it haha

Rest day support mission, We were originally going to climb out at Raid and EMAHD area however a grumpy truckiethwarted that plan.

So car to car left at 11:30 back by 6pm

I had a few sits on the 25, 1 sit on the 23 and the rest clean seconding.

Great work Ange!

Great movement all the way on varying rock quality.

After a sleepless night got up at 6:30 knowing I was gonna try pull the onsight of my life out my ass.

Tried to link the first three raps with a beena blocked 60+70m combo resulted in roughly 1hr and 45 mins of myself and Alyssa faffing furiously with a 3:1 to drag the rope down.

Finished hauling the rope down and rapped in by 10:45

Oh my lil chimken biceps are never going to recover from this one. I'm still moving through the stages that are necessary to make this type 2 fun.

This day involved: - stuck rope on abseil for around 1.5 hrs - mega steep and 3D crack climbing - one lush chimney - many stuck gears and bloody knuckles - one large wailing sob across the valley - one lush corner pitch (4) in the glow of the sunset - one headtorch pitch in the dark

I keep saying I'll never have a day like this again but then I go and have another day like this lol.

Amazing pitches 2 and 3. Something to come back to to do it in a better style

JC led the whole thing! I backed off the 1st pitch, then we realised we were running out of time. Definitely going back for the lead!

Stone fort goes down. What a rad trad day out in the gross and what an awesome climb. 98% good rock and bomber gear the whole way. Not that hard for the grade, I think I managed to sport climb any of the harder crack sections. Onsight odd pitchs, clean second evens.

If you have been thinking about doing this climb I highly recommend it.

Some great positions and great climbing. A bit of choss lets it down in a couple of sections, but otherwise great climbing in some great positions.

Lace it up then just punch the crux, keep moving

I led the even pitches and Aaron the odd and even better — all onsight, a no falls day. . It was pretty close for me on the crux pitch as I happened to run out of the cams I needed for the crux section at the 30m mark. I placed some pretty junky gear and hesitated for a long time, hanging off a jug on an overhang before finally committing to the overhung off-finger-sized crack. In full sport climbing mode I laybacked up it, got one working fingerlock and swung out of the layback (and almost off completely) before latching a jug with some desperation. It was exciting! . Fun morning with a great (ever psyched) friend and back home in time for lunch. Very pleased to have finally done this one, and keen for more

A stellar route and quite achievable at the grade. Much less intimidating than the reputation that surrounds it. Solid gear and the carrots were "passable". Led pitches 1, 3 and 5 with Lee cruising pitch 2 and 4. A super duper fun day with no falls.

Would take a triples of 0.5, 0.75 and 1" camalot next time. #3 camalot optional and definitely don't need a #4.

Trad Raddest multi pitch ever. Led the 25 and crazy arête pitch. So scared before it!!