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Description:© (kranked)

Rap in from 'Critical Mass' and walk back towards Walls lookout, approx 100m

  1. 15m (23) 1st 5m or so have 'average' rock quality then onto polished hard sandstone. Belay bolts are below little rooflet

  2. 35m (25) Tricky moves at start to get past 2 carrots and into chimney. Climb this until it forces you out and onto the face. Punch hard up crack and into the 2nd crack up and left. Belay from good ledge on single carrot and large cams.

  3. 20m (23) Awkward moves to get established in layback tips crack. Brief excitement leads to a good belay stance on carrots.

  4. 35m (22) Punch up open book corner on good gear using crack and face holds. You are then forced onto the face at 3/4 height where the carrots are. 1st carrot is SUPER hard to put plate over, but you can put a good No.4 Camalot in break below it.Climb to small ledge and small corner. Tricky moves past 2 carrots lead to big ledge and carrot belay.

  5. 25m (22) Follow obvious left leaning crack 2m left of belay until it peters out, step right acroos to scoup and large block. Head up to good holds and large scoup with 3 carrots above. Take care exiting to top. Single ringbolt in block with gear for belay

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well intrenched as the most popular form of Bluies climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). Its also a good warmup for your forearms!

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Route History:

There is no known route history.

Location:  

Located in Lunch Ledge approx:
Long/Lat: 150.342021,-33.578158

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

20M4 Pocket RockGUIDE: New Climbs including Nowra Update
25 Principal
25 ** Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas
25 *** Blue Mountains Climbing
25 *** *** ACA Route Register

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Overall quality score: 100%

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