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There are 3 main access options, each with their challenges: (1) Rap in from 'Critical Mass' and walk back towards Walls lookout, approx 100m, but dropping low below a choss cliff then bashing back up through a steep and usually very wet swamp. (2) There is a dedicated rap route 40m R of the top of the route, 25m,50m,50m, but sadly now the hardware is in poor shape. The top anchor is just passable but the others are a little less substantial. A 70m rope will reach the last anchor and is enough to improve this option markedly. (3) Rapping the route, steep as it is, is reportedly an option. Rapping p5 is easy. P4 has enough bolts to redirect you most/all of the way to the ledge. P3&2 would get trickier, prob need trad directional pieces to stay in touch.

Double rack of cams, micros to Camalot #3 (optional #4 for P4), a single set of wires, #2 RP up, and 8 bolt plates does the trick. Plus prussics, it's steep.

  1. 15m (23) 1st 5m or so have 'average' rock quality (1BR) then onto the slab with polished hard sandstone and RP seam. TBB below cramped little rooflet, extend them 2m past small swamp to dry(er) foot ledge.

  2. 35m (25) Tricky moves at start to get past 2 FHs, R to rejoin the line and up into chimney. Climb this until it forces you out and onto the face. Punch hard up crack and into the 2nd crack up and left. Belay from good ledge on single carrot and medium cams and wires.

  3. 20m (23) Awkward moves to get established in splitter layback tips crack. Brief excitement leads to a good belay stance (BR, trad).

  4. 35m (22) Punch up open book corner on good gear using crack and face holds. At a carrot at 3/4 height move up right to 2 more carrots on the face. 1st carrot is SUPER hard to put plate over - bring a wire to loop over or, better, place a good #4 Camalot in break below and skip it entirely. Climb to small ledge and then to ledge with short corner above. Tricky moves past 2 carrots lead to big ledge and carrot belay. (4a: 23. 8m up the corner, traverse R to arête, up arête (1BR then a runout), to rejoin the original for it's final 2 bolts. Lots of fragile rock (and exposure) on this pitch. Prussics!).

  5. 25m (22) This would be a good rap-in and climb-out pitch in its own right if you aren't up for the rest. Follow obvious left leaning crack 2m left of belay until it peters out, step right then up scoop to fragile short headwall with 3 carrots. Take care mantling the grass and dirt slope (yum) and on the 10m scramble up to path. Single RB in block, plus cams or a RB from the pitches above.

  6. 20m (22) The arête above the cave on Lunch Ledge. The 2015 guide says this is runout with a key thread at 4m. But the right side of the arête has ringbolts so it either stays left or has been retroed. Many people skip it.

Ethic: inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms!

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Route History:

There is no known route history.

Location:  

Located in Lunch Ledge approx:
Lat/Long: -33.578158,150.342021

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

25 Community registered grade
20M4 Pocket RockGUIDE: New Climbs including Nowra Update
25 ** Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas
25 *** *** ACA Route Register
25 *** Blue Mountains Climbing

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 96%

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Comments keywords

solid strenuous crux sustained good brilliant amazing great enjoyable rad awesome intimidating fall steep easy vertical rest epic dodgy crack

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