Routes in Boya Quarry

Go Nuclear 10m 22

The wall with 4BR to 3½ Friend belay and tree backup. Jump and dyno then pinch, rock over and slap your way to the top. M. Rosser, J. Truscott 6 June 2005

The Birdman and the Lap Dancer 10m 22

The stepped arête with 4BR to 3½ Friend belay and tree backup. Gentleman’s start then pinch, rock over and slap your way to the top. J. Truscott, M. Rosser 3 July 2005

There is a single bolt at the top of the route or numerous trees to set a top rope. Walk to the top of the route is only a few minutes.

Short and thin crack, bring small gear. Top is dirty and quite lose, inspect it first if possible. Walk to the top of the route is only a few minutes.

Shares final 2 bolts with Cool Under Fire

Climb the face past 3 carrot bolts and aid the roof. Pro required at the roof and after the roof. Carrot bolt anchor at top. So bring plates. The piton on this route is very rusty.

A crack for desperate housewives involving a lay back and a knee bar amongst other delights. 4BR to DBB. J. Truscott, M. Rosser 30 Oct 05

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/three-new-quality-routes-at-boyas-west-bay-back-wall/

The right tending line with layback and reach moves. Get your top off for this one which is visionary and excruciatingly good. 4BR to DBB. J. Truscott, M. Rosser 30 Oct 05

Wrestle and blast up the ethically cleansed wall of terror which crosses directly over WWT. Be bold. 4BR to DBB. M Rosser, J. Truscott 30 Oct 05

Weird slapping crux move

Mantle!

Start as for Crisis Master, but left at the ledge and then straight up.

Awesome crack finish

*Blair Fox Man 20m 23

The arête to the right of POC which provides a real power struggle for plucky climbers. The first ascensionists cannot necessarily stem the flow of misinformation and innuendo, but we can assure other climbers that the unacceptable health risk is groundless. 5BR to DBB and chains. M. Rosser, J. Truscott, D. Zonta Dec 04

A gymnastic, fun climb with lots of interesting moves from the start to the very finish. Grade 21 for Boya Boys. 10 years on from the adjacent routes and not much has changed. The Boys are still hard at it. DBB lower off at the top. Named after the quoll sized rock that landed on my back from high up during preliminary route development

traverce along

A fun challenging climb that is well bolted. Some challenging moves along the way.

Although easy there are no clips for the start of the route. A fun beginner climb alough the clips are a little off route.

Link Up of Infinite Justice into Five Minutes to Midnight.

Start up IJ. At the fourth bolt traverse right just above the level of the roof to a bolt a metre or two above the middle of the roof. From there two more bolts to top-out just to the right of IJ’s finish. The traverse is thoughtful , especially if you have short legs. It’s not a sports clip-up. A long sling is necessary on the bolt above the roof, to reduce rope-drag and to protect the traverse for the second. Also take a nut. Not to place, there is a fat bolt that accepts no bolt-plate. Slide the nut down the cable and press the loop around the hex head. (there was also a discussion regarding the big blocks just below the top, as to whether they’re sound or held in by mud, seemed ok to me).

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/link-up-in-boya/

Five Minutes to Midnight 30m 23

Ascend the buttress and wall with 2BR between IJ and EF, below the roof. Thuggish climbing through the roof with a FBB, then a great finish up the wall with another 3BR. M. Rosser, J. Truscott 26 April 03

Route stays about a meter right of the bolts the whole way up. A medium sized cam helps protect a run out at the top. Tree belay. Beware the very loose muddy section at the top out.

Whole sections are poorly protected and there's a fair bit of loose rock.

Warning, 2nd bolt broke off (Feb 2019), in doubt if the other once are fine. Smear your way up the dirty corner system approximately 2 m left of Modern Tactics, clipping some of the manky carrots along the way. Traverse left under roof an place pro in roof crack (optional) and reach next bolt. 2 more bolts lead to BR loweroffs. The top is where the fun is!

Starts 10 m left of Hell's Bells and Mademoiselles. Take a #2 or #3 cam plus smaller gear (optional) for reaching second carrot. Be careful of where you place gear (especially cams) as a lot of the big flakes seem a little loose. Beware especially of triangular block above the large flake. Okay climbing at the bottom leads to a fun finish!

Lots of traversing left with two ledges to rest on and a strenuous mantle finish.

Start as for HB&M, but go right past RB, through cracked overlap, steep wall above, then finish with traverse left to ledge and lower-offs (crux). 4 RBs, plus small nut(s) between 1st and 2nd RB. There are some historical bolt holes near the end, by others.

Starting 3m R of SF, this routes features insecure footwork, large flakes and a devious top-out. 4 RBs to lower-offs.

Great moves but the top of this route gets covered in mud. It may be a good idea to traverse in from the belay of BMU and clean the top with a rag first! Named after the graffiti near the start, with a couple of puns built-in. 4 FH to lower-offs.

Thought-provoking boulder moves. Don’t get sucked into the orange stuff on left, there is no need. 3 FH to lower-offs.

Trad route, not long but for sure fun. Traverse the slab to push up to the crux, easy from there.