Node |
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Mount Buffalo
Extraordinary climbing on alpine granite of all grades on everything from boulders through single pitch crags to multi day aid affairs on the North Wall of the gorge. |
Eurobin Falls
Easy to get to (only 15 minute drive from Porepunkah), a range of unique trad, and mixed climbs, picturesque and a great spot for a swim. |
Eurobin Falls |
18
Banglanoid
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
12
★ Humpback whale
Excellent protection and shade until 1pm. Mantle on ledge left of Mother of pearl. Follow the arete/ chimney to the left of Mother of Pearl. Rap off trees (1 rope) or continue across to Llafnwood rap station (2 ropes). Climb is a little dirty, but climbs well for the grade. |
14
★ Mother of Pearl
Unless you rap off first pitch you will need 2 ropes to descend.
Descent: Rap station tucked under the large boulder at the top (10m right of the overhanging wall). A 60m rap gets you to another station at the top of pitch 4. Then it's 30m to top of pitch 3, or 63m to top of pitch 2 - you may come up short depending how stretchy your ropes are. Then 50m top of pitch 2 to to ground. |
19
★★ Llafnwod
Now with 3 bolts and a rap station at 45m. Still a bold start, but makes for a great climb. Place a high runner in the corner of MoP, then delicate traverse across slab to good holds, then up. |
23
★ Tiger Angel
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
23
★★ Muscle Beach
"Probably the best slick slab in Victoria". Originally had only 4 bolts, retrobolted by Mikl Dec 2010. Start: Start 5m R of TR at left facing flake. Up to rap station, eay climbing above this to join MoP or rap off. |
24
★★ Zero Rose
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
22
★ Under Glass
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
21
★★ Grooving With Bert
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
21
★★ No Holds Barred
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
18
Up The Creek
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
15
★★ In For A Swim
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
22
In For A Swim Direct
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
18
Bender
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
15
Bender Variant Start
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
13
Spree
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
20
Brian Fish
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
Mackeys Lookout
Big slabby area with lots of atmosphere Useful Info: Be careful of the established routes, while some of them are easy there is very little (if any) protection. |
Mackeys Lookout |
15
The Preying Priest
This route takes the prominent large slab at the far left of Mackey's Lookout Slabs (as seen from the road below). The climbing is good but the access is not. Follow the walking track along the top past Mackey's Lookout, past the Stiletto Slab cairn, cross the creek and continue to the eastern most point (where the track swings back and passes behind a boulder). Bash down ridge for about 40 minutes until you come to the top of the slabs, then continue down the right side (facing out) to the base of the slabs (about another hour). The first pitch is on a lower slab just below the larger expanse.
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16
Flatfoot
Essentially an escape off left from 'Stiletto' |
15
★★ Stiletto
Start: Starts at the inverted V overlap with a small natural stair formation beneath L of centre of the slab.
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16
★★ A Fundamental Difference Of Opinion
A good line, good rock, good gear in a great environment. Take 10 bolt plates for the first pitch.
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16
★★ No Ego
Consistent at the grade and very enjoyable. Fully bolted, take a couple of bolt plates, the rest is rings. Start: Best to rap in (25m first, then 55m 2nd rap then 40m 3rd rap) from the far side of the waterfall as you walk in.
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17
Dry Weather Road
(1) 40m Start up 1st pitch of 'Stiletto', but when on slab above corner, head up and R to BB on narrow curving ledge. (2) 40m (crux) Up past 2BRs and thin flake to 2BB on narrow ledge. (3) 40m Up past ?3 BRs to 2BB in a scoop below a small overlap. (4) 45m 1 BR Easily to top. |
Unknown
Line of fixed hangers up dyke to join 'Weekend Hustlers'. |
22
Weekend Hustlers
Up the line via some small trad gear and two bolts. When the corner seam peters out (at the second bolt?), there is a slippery quartz dyke heading up rightwards. Step right then up via a third bolt to gain some ledges which lead up and left a short distance to a double bolt belay ('On The Edge Of Equilibrium'). From here the best continuation is probably 'On The Edge' Of Equilibrium' (directly above). Alternative finishes include moving left about 8-10m along the slopey ledge to belay on 'No Ego' and then either following the sparsely protected 'Dry Weather Road' or following the easier and better protected 'No Ego' . Start: Starts immediately left of the waterfall (or water trickle, depending on rainfall) at a short, black, slightly leftward leaning seam/corner-of-sorts (i.e the next line down and to the left of Spit and Polish). *this is at the base of 'Stiletto' Slab. |
18
On the Edge of equilibrium
Lovely slab climbing. Consistent. Take 5 bolt plates. Start: Starts on a small ledge about 35m off the ground level on the 'Stiletto' slab wall, just left (say 4-5m) of the waterfall at DBB (glue in M10x100mm carrots). *This is around 8-10m right (facing in) from the start/belay rings of 'No Ego'. |
18
Mirror Image
Clean sustained slab climbing. |
21
★★ Spit And Polish
Thin, sustained and slippery. Start: Start in the gully R of the 'Stiletto' slab below the steepening. |
16
★ Brake Failure
Starts about two-thirds the way up the first pitch of 'High Heels'. This pitch starts higher in the gully than the guide book suggests and the first pitch traverses almost horizontally to the start of the cracks.
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13
High Heels
(1) 20m From where the gully steepens, continue up to belay beside the slab. (2) 40m Climb the slab passing 3 BRs, keeping as far to the L as prudent. Belay above the overlap. (3) 40m The faint groove and beyond. Start: Starts in the gully on the R side of the 'Stiletto' Slab. |
10
★ The Indelible Shuffle
Easy but unprotected slabbing. It is quite possible that the last couple of pitches of 'Good Luck And Good Management' merge into this route. Follow the walking track from the hairpin bend to the first bend in the track. Traverse across the hillside for about 50 metres until the edge of the slab is reached. Descend next to the slab for about 15 metres to a scrubby ledge on the right (facing out). P1 (53m, 10) Go up past right edge of an overlap, swing up left onto slab above. Straight up black rock for about 15 metres to a traverse line and go 5 metres left to a grassy scoop. Follow the line directly above until it meets a dyke on the left. Up dyke for a couple of metres to belay off a small wire just past a small overlap on left. P2 (30m, -) Stroll up. |
13 X
Wombat of Misdirection
When the wombat comes a crossing, look the other way. Ten pitches of dangerous run-out slab following the waterfall of Stiletto Slab to the top. Sometimes slab, sometime mountaineering (may even be well iced in winter?), and always, always lichen growing on polished granite. Approach as for Noblesse Oblige and continue past Good Luck and Good Management. Keep walking left (if facing the cliff) along the slabs to the high point of one set of trees. Down to the bottom of this slab/ gully. Continue to next high point then down to the bottom of the next gully. This is where the climb of horror begins.
From the boulder you can bash through seriously thick bush directly behind for 10- 15 meters and up onto another slab. Walk up a few more meters until you reach "The Big Walk." Make a right turn down the track to head towards Mackey's lookout, while you question your sanity and why on earth you listened to a wombat that morning. |
13 X
★★★ The Misdirected Wombat
Another long and somewhat engaging slab outing on this long sweep of stone. Pitch 1 - start as for 'The Wombat Of Misdirection' but rather than crossing the waterfall at its second pitch (not recommended if the falls are flowing heavily) continue to ramble upwards staying mostly on the cleaner slabs keeping right of the falls all the way to the top of the cliff. Many cruxes including a variety of steep slabbing, slippery moss gardens, vertical jungle scrambling, bouldering, avoiding waterfalls and general adventure shenanigans. Optional belays abound allowing any would be repeat ascentionists to split this single pitch 500+ metre route into as many pitches as you like, but fair warning - most of the possible 'pitches' would be unprotectable and belays would likely be rubbish anyway (unless you belay at various trees and bushes along the way). First Ascent was soloed and while not recommended, may not be much more dangerous than attempting to pitch it out. Repeat at your own risk. |
13 R
★ The Bleeding Nun
Long multi-pitch slab left of Noblesse Oblige and right of Stiletto Slab. No bolts. |
14
Trail of Blood
Start is good but soon deteriorates. Access: As for Noblise Oblige: Follow yellow tape up ridge to base of Noblise Oblige (easily locatable from first bolt on R most low-angled slab). Cross L vegetated line to slab of Good Luck and Good Management (also with FHs), then cross next vegetated line to large slab that starts a bit lower.
6 hours car-to-car |
15
★ Good Luck & Good Management 510m 14
A good honest easy adventure route. Start: From the gully left of Noblesse Obliege, below a small flake leading on to the slab.
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15
★★ The Count of Mounting Crystals
Enjoyable slab climbing in a proud position high on Mackey’s. Pitch 1 is probably one of the best slab pitches at the grade at Buffalo, and pitch 3 pulls through a body-height overlap. 60m rope essential. Start: most parties will approach this via the first 6 pitches of Good Luck and Good Management (and this might become the preferred finish to that route). When done this way, the combined route is 498m with pitches of 12,14,14,13,6,9,15,12,14,6. It would also be possible to rap in, but you’d need to scramble down the top slab to find the last belay bolt (SS FH in a good stance), then rap 58m to the bushy ledge, then 40m to the DBB, then 60m to the base, and retrieve gear on the ascent.
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13
★★ Noblesse Oblige
Best long easy slab at Buffalo, Easy slab climbing up a long black streak, so avoid it in rain. Take slings and a light rack, hexes or tricams are useful. Be prepared for 10-15m runouts on easier ground. Stash a bicycle near the top beforehand, for an easy way back down to retrieve the car afterwards. Start: Drive up about 1 km from 'Eurobin Falls' and the buttress is obvious through the trees, there is a stream and a big white boulder here, tape on tree to mark start a bit further right. Walk up the right ridge of the gully, keeping 60m to the right of the creek to avoid death slab/vegetation and cut across when you are level with the base of the buttress, about 15-20 minutes, there are some small cairns and yellow tapes. You solo an easy slab, then there is a tree with double yellow tapes on it, go right here to the start The climb takes about 1 or 2 hours. Start on the right side of the slab, right of a left slanting scrubby crack. Basically 4 or 5 pitches up a black streak up a buttress. Then an easy traverse 20m right to a black streak up the next buttress for 3 pitches, then 2 easy finishing walk/scramble pitches.
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Mt McLeod
Long, sparsely protected, multi-pitch slabs up generally very clean granite in a remote/wilderness setting. Routes get full sun - take adequate water. Let others know your intentions before you go. |
Mt McLeod |
15 M1
Southeast Passage
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
11
Snake Flake
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
17
Lizard Lane
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
15
★★ Outlander
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
16
Subterranean Fungus
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
4
Water Race
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
8
Water Race Right Hand Variant
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
14
D.O.A.
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
16
★ Slab Happy
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
18
★ The Last of the Freemen
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
19
Glycerine Tears
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
13
Sunways
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
12
Centre Line
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
19
★ Further and Further
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
15
Morningside
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
15
Logan's Run
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
13
Big Corner
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
18
Nose Job
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
18
★ Nose Job Direct
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
16
Main Buttress
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
10
Welcome Slab
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
The Gorge - South Side
This track accesses routes in the gorge itself, eg. Where Angels Fear to Tread. Not necessarily the best approach for all routes. Park at the Gorge Day Visitor Area near the Mount Buffalo Chalet and walk down towards Echo Point Lookout. Pass the hang-glider ramp and trend right into the obvious shallow gully via a wooden step and a "no entry" sign. From here wind your down and left into the gorge (and briefly up) passing many cairns and the well-named Mushroom Rock. Towards the bottom there are a few steepish fixed ropes to negotiate. If you hit Crystal Brook you've gone too far. |
The Gorge - South Side |
Car Park Boulders
The zero walk-in (the boulders are only a few metres from your car) is the only appeal. The 5 meter high micro routes really do look crap. |
The Gorge - South Side Car Park Boulders |
16
Wee Willie Winkie
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
12
Winkie Wanky Woo
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
12
Now We Are Six
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
16
When We Were Very Young
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
The Gorge - South Side |
Glass Gully
Some of the climbs here are ok, but negotiating the slippery descent is horrendous. In years gone by the chalet rubbish bins were emptied into this gully, so that now the ground here is 1 part dirt, 1 part slippery loose leaf litter, and 1 part shards of razor sharp glass ... all at an angle of 45+ degrees. Bring sturdy footwear, and possibly heavy gloves in case you unexpectedly put a hand down. |
The Gorge - South Side Glass Gully |
15
Bantam
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
17
Cataract
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
20
Wake In Fright
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
17
Sleep In Peace
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
22
Persona Non Grata
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
21
★ Dream
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
25
Rappiles Rules
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
20
High Voltage
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
18
Energy Crisis
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
19
Short Circuit
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
22
Wichita
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
22
On Line
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
21
Slip And Slide
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
22
★ Bold Hussie
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
22
Crack Of Fat
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
25
Pathway to Mass Consumption
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
The Gorge - South Side |
Summit Rim
Banana Blasé is directly below the bolts to lookers right of the glider ramp, and Home James rap is on the (lookers) right side of the big big boulder just past Banana |
The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim |
23
Cyborg
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
Body Heat Area
To access the following routes, find the boulder from which you abseil into Home James. Skirt around this boulder (to the right, looking out) and push through bushes for 10m to arrive at a ledge (here you will find the route 'Finger Fantasy'). A 20m scramble takes you down to the anchors of Body Heat. |
25
★★★ Body Heat
From the top of Home James, keep skirting around the gorge rim (rightward, looking out) and down a little to a ledge (immediately east from a short east-facing finger-crack - Finger Fantasy). A double bolt rap chain is located toward the east edge of this ledge. This the belay at the top of Body Heat and Sweet Nothings. Abseil in 25m to hanging double bolt belay (bolt plates required). Up past 5 FHs. |
27
★ Sweet Nothings
The steep blunt arete to the R of Body Heat. |
21
Finger Fantasy
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
Home James Area
The routes in the vicinity of 'Home James' are best accessed by abseil. From the hang-glider ramp, skirt down to the right (looking out) around the big block above the Banana Blase gully. Continue past this for another 15m, then move left looking for a chockstone at the junction of the easy angled slab and the vertical wall. Sling this chockstone for the abseil into 'Home James'. |
23
★ Silver Shadow
Start as Home James then go straight up slab instead of traversing right.Confusing move on the Headwall. 3 carrots, plus 2 (?) from the start of Home James. |
20
★★★ Home James
Great climbing up some fantastic dyke features, can be a little hard to find. A few carrot bolts and some small to medium cams and wires. To access, rap down slab from big chock stone that you sling just around a large boulder past the hang glider ramp. You should be able to see the dykes near where the wall turns vertical as you rap down. There is a super comfy belay at the bottom with two carrot bolts. |
The following two routes start off a sizeable ledge 20m below the start of Home James. Either route
The following two routes start off a sizeable ledge 20m below the start of Home James. Either route can be easily combined with Home James or Silver Shadow. |
21
★★ Back in an Hour
Starts a couple of metres left of 'And don't spare the horses' (apparently the numbers given to these two routes in the text in the '06 guidebook should have been reversed). Delicate slabbing up first 3 bolts, then move left to wide crack past 2 more bolt. Up left over crack to finish on slab past another bolt to belay at the base of Home James. |
23
★★ And don't spare the horses
Starts from near the right side of the sizeable flat ledge directly below the base of Home James. Up the slab which sweeps up tending rightward, past 3BRs to a steepening (large-medium cam possible but not essential). Up and over this, past another BR, and up leftward to the belay at the base of Home James. |
20
Horizontal Kung Fu
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
22
★★ Vertical Tai Chi 2nd Pitch
Climbs the crack and arete beside Home James, and shares HJ's last bolt. Rap to DFH belay then follow the FHs with optional gear to share the last bolt with ‘Home James’. Note route length includes the 10m slab-walk back to the belay |