Nodes in The Cathedral

A mighty spire which hosts many of Mt Buffalo's most talked about routes. Easy access and now thanks to the new guide very easy to find your way around

Useful Info: As usual for 'Buffalo', some routes here are a little bold for the timid. If you want the most consumer friendly routes, aim for:

'Maharajah' (17**)

Bloodknok (17**)

'Sultan' (20***)

Edge of Pleasure (21***) top pitch is spectacular (you can rap in), the first pitch is now quite overgrown and is not really worth it.

Sunrunner (22**)

The next 3 routes are fairly safe but not for the timid, and are excellent.

'Woodpecker Wall' Variant (22**)

Substance Abuse (24***)

The Dreaming (23***)

Flaring crack on the left before you enter the gulch. Don't get it confused with Jaws (which is in the Gulch on the left) otherwise you're gonna have a bad time!

Fist crack in v groove on left side of the gulch through the Cathedral. May be a little hard and you will probably lose a lot of skin.

The crack from the terrace above Jaws, flanked on its right by a large flake.

Radical line of flakes through an outrageous roof arete, and all this in a prime position on the front of the Cathedral. Looks all time! Batman start.

About 11 metres left of Sultan. Take a big cam to protect the moves up to the first bolt, then slab on up on the usual assortment of crimps and crystals...

3m right of Seven Veils (and 8m left of Sultan). Up.

Starts 3m right of The Quick and the Dead, and 5m left of Sultan. Straight up past 2 horizontal dykes

Great slab starting 3m right of Hair Trigger and 2m left of Sultan ending in the cave at the first belay of Sultan.

Majestic.

Start: Start at the commandingly wide corner (with a dog leg to the left halfway up) leading towards the big roof.

1. 20m (20) Follow the wide corner, passing an old aid bolt that is now superseded by a large cam (#4 Camalot or equiv.). Move on up to belay in the cave.

2. 15m (15) Up the short wall on the right and enjoy the easy but very airy traverse to a small stance in an alcove. Belay with 1 carrot bolt, plus gear.

3. 30m (18) A fantastic finalé. An awkward start leads to an amazing collection of big flakes stacked on top of each other, creating a wonderful line of jugs. Once the holds run out, run it out up the slab above to the top of the pinnacle (DBB).

Descent as for Maharaja (17).

Continue straight up the crack in the right wall after the crux of Sultan to join the end of the second pitch.

Starts about 6m right of Sultan (a few metres right of the right arete of Sultan's first pitch corner). Up 3m to gain left-leading dykes and so to the hanging groove beside the arete. 2 bolt runners in this section. Up the groove (a few small wires and/or some very small cams would be handy) to the slab above. Up this to step right to a pocket and a nearby bolt then up to the traverse line on the second pitch of Sultan.

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

The left most start to Maharajah up the hand to fist corner crack makes for a nice direct line up the whole route which you can do as one long pitch.

Start up Maharajah LHV start, reach left as for Ravi Variant. L past BR to the arete, then up the right side of the flake. Slab past 2BRs to the belay on Maharajah. Finish as for Castles in the Sand to summit chains. Abseil 25moff the back.

Start as for Maharajah LHV Start. Up corner-crack until able to reach L to the steep flake. Up this to easier ground, then into Maharajah.

Tricky and slightly dicey alternate start (just left of the original). Have your belayer tell you if your gear is any good.

Wonderful - There are a number of start options which join further up. Easily done in two pitches, or even one with the more direct starts.

This route was the first to actually summit the pinnacle.

1. 24m (17) If you have the necessary gear, go straight up to the platform.

2. 18m (17) Up the corner and then the unprotected slab to the summit chain belay/rap station.

Descent: Rap into the canyon behind and scramble easily around to the start.

A link-up from the second belay of Maharjah to the second belay of Sultan.

Starts 1/2 m right of Maharajah. Pull onto the wall via a jug then step right and then more easily but boldly up. Move right to incipient flake, then up past two fixed hangers to the ledge at the top of the block. Belay/abseil rings.

The line 4m right of the original start. Up and diagonally left to ledge.

Quite technical. Start as for Maharajah RHV then up past 4 BRs to abseil ring.

Nice slab climbing and very committing. Make sure you're comfortable with the fall from the top before committing to the climb. Probably a good idea to have a heavy belayer!

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

The right arete of the upper wall right of Maharajah.

Furthest left line of bolts across small gully from Maharajah.

Up via pocket to first BR of 'Shell Shock', then left and up past another 6 BRs to u-bolts.

Up past pocket. Go right then up, getting easier soon after first bolt (originally done with no bolts at all).

A few metres down the ramp (right) from the start of Shellshock.

On the buttress down approximately north-easterly below Maharajah, this route starts 5m left of Contact Sport (which, in turn, takes the left arete of Compulsion). Up to the ledge at 4m. Boulder past the bolt runner to the small rising ramp. Move rightward up this to and past the final bolt on Contact Sport.

Climbs the left arete of Compulsion. Slick/polished so best avoided when it is in full sun. Start immediately left of the arete at the left-leaning flake/seam. Up this, then past a fixed hanger and 3 more bolts.

None of the possible starts to this route are well protected. Make your way into the obvious corner on the buttress below Maharajah (visable from the road) and up that. Take plenty of 2-4 camalot sized gear.

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

The left hand line on the front of the buttress beloextw Maharajah and around right from Compulsion. The next few routes start from the top of a boulder. Tricky scramble up or rap down and left from the Sunrunner anchors.

The right hand line. Wander up the easily angled start from the right, grunt through the roof and up the nice crack.

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

Up off width corner crack to 2 meters left of Sunrunner. Changes from stacks to hands about halfway up. Use Sunrunner anchor at the top to rappel down.

Rapping just to the base of the clean corner and climbing back up from there gives an excellent grade 15 route. Rap to the ground if you want to do the steep bouldery crux start. Can be done in one pitch or belay on the first big ledge you come to.

Reasonably well protected for a Buffalo slab. Rap in from the anchors directly down from the exit of the gulch. The corner of The Viking will be visable to your left.

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

P1. Clean slabbing past a mix of fixed hangers and carrots to belay on sloping ledge. P2. Step R and weave your way up an amazing piece of clean rock, the 3FH and 2 carrots are spaced, but where you need them most. DBB

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

Starts in gully with two cracks and a wide, boulder-filled chimney on the right, just pasted 'The Dreaming' slab.

P1) 35m. Start in heavily vegetated crack in middle of gully. Move up to ledge and past a bolt into multiple flaring cracks, step R and past 4 bolts to large belay ledge (5carrots).

1. 40m (all sport 8 carrots). Brilliant and well-protected arete climbing with amazing exposure. Definitely worth 3 stars.

Once topped out, jump across small gully to right (facing out) and rap 25m off double U bolt anchor to start of shell shock/fire in the foothills.

Recommended to leave bags near start of Maharajah and walking in with climbing gear as rap descent is to near start of Maharajah

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

Start as for Twin Cracks. Climb the first (right) crack of Twin Cracks to a bolt runner. Step right onto the face and up past 5 more bolt runners. Abseil chains .

These cracks which don't quite reach the ground or the top are quite obvious from the walk up.

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

Pitch 1:Up easy diagonal wide-crack to twin-cracked corner. Easy up to ledge. Belay from cave. Pitch 2: pull up and onto platform below the crack, then bridge the wider section past two carrot bolts at 3 meters to gain wide crack. Continue up the crack until the top, trying not to focus on the lack of gear.

Ring bolts are located on the left of the large boulder at top. The rappel down to the start can be done on a 70m with some rope stretch, but an 80m or doubles is preferable

Up to first belay on The Pinch. Step left onto slab and into crack. Up crack onto slab and summit.

Replaced anchor Feb 2018

steep fist to offwidth (crux) corner crack to desperate top out (rap rings) Approach is also tricky

Start as for Sorcerer's apprentice (up the mossy little corner on the left). Up obvious corner, starting at hands and widening to OW at the top. A #5 is nice.

Access to the rap bolts on sorcerer's apprentice is possible by walking away from the edge about 10-15m, to a point where you can easily scramble up a level.

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

The flake next to the chipped steps (tourist route) on the southern side of the cathedral

Take the walking track up to the Cathedral, then skirt around the base of it, until you can descend a vegetated gully to reach the top of the Crack of Anguish Buttress.

Routes False Memory/Tranquility/Total Recall are best accessed by creating a natural gear abseil at the far end of the buttress.

This route must have been done previously; please change details if you know them. A #4 camalot comes in handy, but not essential.

Abseil in as for Tranquility.

Follow the crack 4m L of Tranquility. Expect a range of different crack sizes, and some helpful face holds. And some moss.

Step R from tree into thin crack. Up and L until scoop and carrot bolt. Up steeper wall on good edges and 2 more carrot bolts to join TR at the top.

Steep hand crack / flake on the West face - starting just down and R of Tranquility. Gear to size 4 cam.

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

Mossy horror show finishing up massive semi detached flake opposite Crack of Pleasure.

North facing hand-crack in gully. Moss doesn't detract from the climbing.

Offwidth Corner 2m R of Crack of Pleasure.

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.