First Tier Mostly Trad climbing 19 routes in sector

First obvious roof at start of main cliff. Crux between 1st and 3rd bolt. Excellent heel hook move to get from 2nd to 3rd bolt. 4th bolt in over hanging finish. 3rd bolt not visible from bottom. Double bolt belay.

Up through broken ledges and right and follow crack line to first big ledge. Natural up under corner then traverse out right for 3m along overhang then pull up onto prominent ledge. Move to runner up and left and then come back right and up. Traverse out right to clip next runner on honey combed wall. Crux move to thin underneath ledge then left to gain a position to place a SLCD. (strenuous). Strong moves up and right to clip. Exit top and belay from chains or trees.

All natural. Most of the route is probably 18ish but the crux section through the corner crack around half way is a testy 21. Start is approx 3m right of the corner crux section - rightish of the jutting overhang, Climb left until ledge below crux then up corner crack. Move right and follow natural pro line right then left to finish at tree.

Same start as 'Bucanner Blood'. Sweet start with easy moves protected by a cam swinging out and around a overhanging section. Clip first bolt runner then up on big ledge to place some natural. Make you way onto next ledge to left of next bolt and clip. Crux move of this ledge and up to small pocket and next bolt runner. Strong moves to next ledge for a deserved rest and next clip. Start the next move and clip above small overhang and reach high to step up right onto awkward balancing ledge. Stand tall and clip last runner for an easy finish. Belay off bolt runners (spread out) and natural.

3 bolt runners and 4 to 5 cams. Start left under overhang and swing around onto face on great holds. Up left past first bolt onto large ledge ('dropledge'). Move to the left side of large ledge and then up past 2nd and 3rd bolts. Three moves here through these bolts to a natural placement is the crux and sweetesh part of the route - very nice moves. Up through pocket with natural placements to top out on next big ledge. Belay of bolt runner straight above and bolt runner 2 m to the right.

Starts at far right of big overhang. 1st Pitch - Up crack to about 5m and then start traversing left for about 20m , cams and ringbolts. Natural belay (or use ringbolt plus cams). 2nd Pitch - Keep heading left for about another 25m , all natural until just around corner, natural belay. 3rd Pitch Keep heading left for about another 20m, all natural until you reach lower off chains or turn around and traverse back (140m climb). Tons of exposure.Project

Arete route above Seaena & Headron. Self belay route used to climb out. Only access is to abseil in. Probably won't be done by anyone due to access problem. Good though due to exposure.

6 bolt runners plus chain for belay. The route is a little contrived with only two moves at the grade, one at the 3rd bolt, the other at the 5th bolt. The start is reasonable with an easy middle and nice undercling edge near the finish. Good fun and worth the effort.

A few meters right of Merlin's Platform. Has a Blank orange wall in the middle with one bolt. Crux is from the bolt up. Mostly big slopers 1 bolt & natural pro. Natural belay.

1m right of Merlins platform. Up on to small ledge to place first cam. Up to sloper to clip first bolt. Two crimps, feet up, (right foot as far to left as possible for max. height), right layoff, and balance up to pocket. Clip bolt then up onto ledge and run out to top. Belay off Merlins platform (2bolts, & cam or Hex for directional. Technical & sweet.)

15m right of Bealzibbs Revenge . Straight up to platform using small wires. Has a fun dyno in the middle. Easy if you are tall. Belay at top. Natural Pro.

10m right of Bealzibbs Revenge. Great route at the grade, often used as a warm up being directly below some abseil chains (top rope). Has it all, hand jam at start, sloper to pocket then pull up, more slopers then mantle on right arm with lay off left hand hold, then finish on edges past left of tree. Great stuff.

Well north of 'Grease Mantle' where the cliff is doubled tiered. Up 2.5m blank wall past one bolt to crack in corner. Then layback up to small overhanging ledge. Fist jam behind ledge and traverse 2m, R, to end of ledge. Then up small blank black wall to double bolt belay. 1 bolt then NP. Beware loose rocks.