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The first area of Niblo that you come to. Everything from the road to the fenceline

Access issues inherited from Cooleman Ridge Bouldering

Please be sensible accessing the Horse Paddock boulders if walking in from the Kambah side and go around the horses rather than straight through the pen. Access from this side is at the end of Hake Street - drive past the pony club and park near the 'Arawang' sign.

Ethic inherited from Cooleman Ridge Bouldering

While some of the harder climbs on the ridge were created by chipping, where previously no climb was possible, please leave your chisels at home. There are not so many climbs at the higher grades that they should be brought down to lower levels!


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Stand start then climb up and top out.

Straight up the most overhung part of the boulder, with no real footing to get you started. Hugely shouldery, height dependent as well but essentially a fairly short problem (shorter people can probably add 1-2 grades and will probably need to toe-hook the other side of the boulder just to get started on very poor slopers).

FA: Unknown, 1 Jan 2012

Bring a mat and a spotter - big sharp rock right in the fall zone. While this climb is quite short, it's also almost devoid of anywhere to place your feet.

Direct up the arete off the small flake. Balancy and thin with a deadpoint required. Mat and spotter mandatory if you like your back.

Up past the large flake and mantle out on top. A few variants, all roughly V1.

Thin crimpy and short direct line on face to right of the #6 large flake

Open project - traverse the obvious ridge of the icecream boulder near to #6 - all the way! Crux is the section facing to the road. Has been attempted many times, including by a foreign climber doing 8b on rope! If you send it, please grade it.

From front of the icecream traverse boulder, up and left from a stand start, top out to the left. Straight up a fair bit harder.

Straight up the front of the Icecream Boulder. Try not to rip off the crucial loose rubble on the right shoulder of the bottom block.

FFA: B Bertson

Bring spotters and mats and be prepared to fall. A few reasonable handholds, but expect to be 8 feet up falling onto hard packed earth should you not have eaten the wheaties to get yourself ready for this. Insecure, scary, dangerous. You have been warned.

Variation of number 6. The arete is the definitive climb in the CCA guide. V7 for the arete, V2 to join up with no. 6.

Direct to route #7 arete variant. Stand start using left hand side pull beneath middle of roof. Climb roof/arete and top out.

FFA: Bevan Ashby, 4 Sep 2015

Straight up using the poor feet and the incut at chest height, incut higher up and the bulge. A few ways to do it but they're all mean.

Straight up the arete, topping out straight up through the seam. Hard!

One chipped hold, strenuous moves on tiny holds. Getting feet onto the rock is the crux - probably a 1-2 move problem, but hard ones nonetheless. Grade to be confirmed.

Sit start from low jug, climb up trending rightwards and top out.

Sit start from low jug, climb up trending leftwards and top out.

Before the fence, there's a group of boulders to the right. Sit start on the first 'face' climbable boulder, off two sidepulls and up. Strenuous, short, and massively contrived. Getting feet set is very, very tough.


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