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Cascade boulders
Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open: http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park |
Below the bridge
How did such quality problems get ignored for so long? Great quality rock in a shade area with the shortest walk in you could ask for. |
Below the bridge |
The Minions Boulder
The first boulder after the gravel beach on the left, climbs are on the downstream side. |
V1
★ Bob
This silly one |
V0
★ Stuart
The one with the big eye |
Kevin
The serious one. Project |
V2
★ Dr Nefario
Stand start with jam then wrestle up. An alternate start further back might be possible |
Brisvegas boulder
5m downstream from the Minions, facing upstream |
V2
★★ Barbie Twist n Turn
Sit start on left face, up without touching the right boulder leaning on it. |
V5
★★★ Shawarma
Instant classic, not exactly Sharma but still very tasty. Sit start in the corner, up through crimpy side pulls then reach to right gaston and mantle. Eliminate the face side pulls is around V5. |
V1
★★ Turbot St Exit
Up horizontal rails and mantle. |
V2
★★★ River side expressway
Long, fun, just the right amount of spice to keep you on your toes. Sit start on the side pull, non trivial traverse over the water without a mat, then link through more rails into 'Turbot St Exit' |
Southbank
On the ... southern bank? |
V1
★ Nepalese Peace Pagoda
Directly across the river, an easy arete, taller than it appears as the start is hidden. |
V2
★★ Hot crossed buns
SDS under massive jug and up. It sets you up for a weird crossed arms move. |
V3
★★ Max Brenner
Traverse over to the crack |
V3
★★ Lost Lamington
Start in the crack then left up the rail |
V3
★ Botanic gardens
Old fashioned thrutching, or a fun layback with jugs. Choose wisely. |
Reflections boulder |
V3
★ Riverside rejections
Sit start the through two sets of slopers and up |
V5
★★ Riverside reflections
SDS through the sloper steps, then traverse right and around the corner to the rail and then either up or across the face |
Below the stairs
Follow the track to the cement stairs then drop in just before them |
Below the stairs |
Gritstone tombstone
Just 5-10, right of the cement stairs, on the way towards the 'Space Mushroom'. |
V3
Gritstone tombstone
Stand start with high right pinch up gritty slopers. A much harder sit start may go. |
V1
★ Toppled tombstone
Directly 4m is an easy low problem which can be under water at the 0.2 level. Start jammed low, then jug and up |
Only possibly when the water is fairly low. As you walk along the walking track when you hit the fir
Only possibly when the water is fairly low. As you walk along the walking track when you hit the first set of a dozen cement steps, drop down into the creek. |
V3
★ Space mushroom
Sit start on ok holds, then traverse left along the holds on the rim without going up to the lip and around. |
Moonscape area
This area of heavily sculpted boulders is yielding a lot of great little gems. Blocs are listed from downstream to upstream. |
Moonscape area |
This almost subterranean area had been long overlooked or dismissed but yields a number of quality c
This almost subterranean area had been long overlooked or dismissed but yields a number of quality contorted unique problems. It is immediately in front about 20m as the track turns to slab, under and around the tallest boulder in the area. |
V1
Cuttlefish beak
A cruisy little layback problem |
V2
★★ Hectocotylus
Sit start and slap up the right leaning short spire |
V3
★★ Octopus asylum
The left deep pit. Layback / offwidth / chimney out of the pothole. |
V1
★ Squid
In the right side of the pit facing north, sit start and up the arete, duck under the chockstone without touching it or the back wall and up to freedom. |
V2
★ Cuttlefish
Start jammed in the chockstone and up the back wall without touching the front wall. |
V1
★ Sponge crab
Short crimpy problem that feels more exposed than it is over the void above 'Octopus asylum' |
V1
★★ Evacuation station
This start further back / down / under the first 2 pits. Up jam crack and then grovel through the triangular exit. |
V5
★★★ Space jam
Starts 1-2m of Evacuation station on the great flake. Up flake, into horizontal roof crack and then grunt around the rooflet into the open. A stellar jamming test piece. |
★ Ben's extra thing
Just right of space jam? |
V1
Moon buggy
In a pit with a wedged tractor tire. Poor feet, good crimpers, line up the top out. |
V0
★ Chunk mantle
Start on and mantle through the chunky knob. Beware of the slippery casuarina needles. |
Lunar wall
Directly in front of where the track comes to |
VB
★ Cresent moon
Sit start and easy traverse left |
V3
crimp left face
Harder than it should be |
crimp right face
Thin crimps |
V4
★★ Sloper rail
Sit start left hand on the sidepull, traverse onto rail and up |
V3
★★ In plain sight
Start on the obvious head height jug. Slap up left on bad feet to the top corner, then a weird tricky mantle out. |
V5
★★★ In plain sight SDS
Sit start with left hand on good arete and right spanning to poor sidepull sloper (the lowest 'hold' on the right side), slap up for jug off some pretty bad feet. Stack pads at your discretion, obviously gets easier with more pads. |
V3
★★ Erudite coprolite
Start on the sculpted under slaps, up through weird big features and high step |
V3
★★ Gravitational lock
Super delicate slab moves |
V2
★★ Gravity well
A sketchy landing over water which we built up using logs. Up the arete onto the right side. |
V4
★★★ Gushing over
3 stars of fun absurdity. This needs logs to build up a pad platform. Up the same arete as Gravity Well but head left through the blunt saddle with a finish you will gush over. |
Descent track rooflet
Just 5m upstream of where the track pops out |
roof project
Just off to the right as the decent track drops of the dirt into the cascades is a stacked boulder forming a roof with some unlikely jugs. |
About 20m upstream is a nice flat spot to have a picnic surrounded by problems with a good mix of gr
About 20m upstream is a nice flat spot to have a picnic surrounded by problems with a good mix of grades. |
VB
Crater rim
Easy warmup, up rail and rock over |
VB
Cracktacular
Sit start in the mud or squat if you prefer. Up corner crack various features along the way. |
V0
★ Reverso
Sit start in the corner and body jam up bewteen the two boulders. |
V3
★ Half Moon
Stand start. Up arete finishing on little jugs at top. |
V3
★ Full moon
Left on the arete, right opposed on the sloper, up the face avoiding the jug to the right. |
V0
★ Easy target
Start on the jug, into crack. Warm up and also a descent |
V3
★ Moonrise
Step up on obvious block and trend up and L then to top. |
V4
★★ 25% crack
Up the crack then delicately step past the slab to the right high side pull. Easier with long span. |
V5
★★ The Landing Zone
Stand start on some marginal crimpers, set feet and punch to top. |
V2
★★ Unlatched Lockout Leg
Up obvious features trending R and L to finish. Don't have a RUD into the water |
V3
★ Gollum Pit Layback
Sit start under large rail above entrance. Use small feet on opposite boulder. Up layback until boulders meet & into crack/mantle/jugs etc. |
V2
★ Gollum’s Crack
Sit start and avoid the crimpers on the face to the left & jam your way up the hand/fist crack like Gollum would want you to. |
V1
★★ Smeagol’s Crack
Sit start the hand crack on the opposite side. |
VB
Choose Your Own Chimney
Stand start on one of Gollum’s many faces & chimney & bridge your way to freedom while doing your best Gollum impersonation. |
Moonwalker boulder |
V2
★ Moonwalker Direct
Only use the face jug to mantle (A tall persons problem). |
V0
Moonwalker
Use smears on all sides to get to jug before mantling. |
Rays bloc
10m upstream of the Landing Zone |
V3
★★★ Stingray
The obvious finger crack line L of Xray. SDS and up the crack. |
V0
Xray
Up the left ray crack |
V3
★ Gamma ray
SDS and up the right leaning crack, sketchy landing |
V1
Moonshadow
Sit start and climb the left side of the scalloped arête. |
VB
★★ Moon ray
Behind 'Gamma ray', up the right side of the scallop thingo |
Moon Blade Direct
Starts on a crimper. One hard pull & it's all over. |
V1
★ Moon Blade
Sit start at base of flake. Up, around & mantle before you reach the next boulder. |
V2
★★ Island Hopper
Sit Start in corner L of MB. Up crack & through wedge. |
V3
★★ Catfish And The Wormy Jam
Using the woody debris footer press up & lodge your torso in the offwidth. Wriggle, crimp, jam & squirm your way to victory. |
The missing chalice
A large feature that looks like a wineglass shape was removed from the rock. |
V0
★ Pony Ride
From start block chest jam up, transfer L & ride the L pony (lobe). Follow arête up & out |
V3
★★ Long Drop
From start block chest jam the void mantle & ride the R pony (or simply mantle the R lobe direct). Step up & bridge across the void out L to small chip. Reach out high & R to seam & work up to assist with the final mantle |
V1
★ A Crack In The Wash Basin/Soft Paws
A sweet, mossy & soft little finger crack line complete with chocks. |
V3
★★ Seahorse
Start on The L side of the mantle piece, campus around & move under L lobe to L side of Washbasin. Ride the Shetland pony (small hidden lobe) then follow obvious seam around to the beginning of the mossy crack & then up as for ACITWB/SP. |
V3
★★ Crossing The Void
Same as for Seahorse but once you arrive at ACITWB/SP span across the void & out to the lobes. Once successfully across and established complete the circuit by topping out LD or BB. |
V3
★★ Horse Trader
Start on the mantel piece and make your way to the Shetland pony under the L lobe (as for Seahorse). Mantle L lobe and finish up arête as for PR. |
V4
★★★ Bucking Brumby Arête
Start as for LD. Up arête using R seam, L high crimp & not much else. Dangerous landing. |
V0
★ The Slab
Stand start. Trend R, delicate mantle to finish. |
V1
Mantle Assist
Start with hands on the mantle piece and use the L lobe to help mantle the mantle piece. |
V2
★ Rocking Horse Left
Start with hands on the mantle piece, throw a left leg over. |
V3
★ Rocking Horse Right
Start with hands on the mantle piece, throw a right leg over. |
VB
Chimney Sweeper
Pick a side & press yourself up and out. |
Cave project
Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open: http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park |
Scultpure garden
This area is full of large water sculpted rocks, some of which are only possible during drought. Same approach as Moonscape area, but when you drop into the creek everything is immediately in front and to the left / downstream, while moonscape is to the right / upstream. |
Scultpure garden |
The moat block
About 10m north of the Palatine Uvula Bloc and slightly downstream, on the way towards the Holy Land. |
V2
★ The Moat
Lean / jump across the water to the jug, one move mantle. For full effect do it in approach shoes, and if the puddle is dry it doesn't count |
V0
★ Moat retreat
If you can't commit to the mantle bail right |
Downstream 20m from where the track pops out is an iconic boulder shaped like the "palatine uvula" a
Downstream 20m from where the track pops out is an iconic boulder shaped like the "palatine uvula" aka the dangly thing in the back of your mouth. Uvula rhymes with groove-ula. |