Routes in Upper Gara Gorge

A diagonal corner just left and up from Tipitina. Harder than it looks. Up a short steep slab, then thin awkward moves in the corner to top.

As for Tipitina. Up the steep wall trending left along seam then back right and up to chain in Fingertip Control (placed there by misunderstanding - but left there). Four bolts in total.

A corner with a bush. Up the corner, avoid the tree, then up final corner to top

Start: As for Pink Freud. Looks harder than 16 and probably is!

Up as for Pink Freud, left across wall using crack, step up and climb slabby arête.

Start: 2m left of Fugue State

Up crack.

Start: The best line on the boulder just down (approximately 40 m) from the car park.

Up crack, through overlap to ledge, then up offwidth crack to top.

Start: Somewhere (?) on a boulder 200 m downstream of Pink Freud.

Start: 4m left of the belay tree for Nirvana On Tap, the sharp crack above a large cave.

Up the fine crack, moving right onto the ledge. Step out right then up and through the roof and step (crux) up onto the top of the block. 2 BR belay.

Start: 2m left of Yuppie. A hard start.

Muscle up start, then cruise to horizontal crack, traverse left to ledge. Tree belay.

Start: 1m left of Reunion. A series of boulder problems and ledges.

Up little wall, step left, up left diagonal then clip BR right past BR to ledge, clip another BR then up (crux) to top.

Start: Just left of Anticipation/Hope. Easy slab then an off-width.

Up slab to ledge. Up off-width to ledge; traverse left and easily to top.

Start: As for Reunion.

At the top of the off-width step right onto the wall and finish up cracks to top.

Start: The flared crack left of Hope. Bridge up the corner left of Hope, or do the jam section of Hope. Take a #4 Friend.

Up the corner 1m left of Hope, to the ledge, step up (crux) into the corner and jam to the top.

Start: The best-looking line on the boulder. A jam crack, then an easy corner. A classic. Left of Expiry Date.

Jam the crack to the large ledge, then up the easy corner.

Start: On the ledge between Charity and Hope.

Straight up the wall to top. No protection.

Start: The crack on the ledge left of faith.

Hard start, then easier jamming to top.

Start: The slabby arête at the extreme right hand end of the buttress. #4 Friend and 2 BRs. Belay off 2 bolts.

Scramble up ledges to the base of the slab. Move up the right side of arête, BR, then step to the left side (crux) and up to the top, BR.

Start: The climb faces Hope Buttress. 2 BRs and wires.

Swing up to the ‘bucket’, clip the FH, then move up (crux) to the next FH. Mantle over the bulge to lower offs, optional grassy top out.

Start as for WWOS then diagonally right up the slab

Delicate slab climbing linking into the 3rd bolt of 'Cross wired'

Interesting boulder start into a crack and then over too quickly

Up arete

SDS up leaning rail.

Start: At a slab at the base of the crack.

Up slab to overlap, (crux) then up crack to top.

A short easy top rope slab.

If this goes it would be cool. Start 2m underground and climb left and up out of the pit

The prominent arête on the back of Savage Amusement Buttress. 1 BR, #1 Rock, wires. Step across into the foot-holds (take care with small wire placement) then follow the arête past a BR and wires to the top. BR and tree (right back) for belay.

A crimpy face with a lot of flexing holds, climb delicately to leave some holds for the next climber

The arete about 10m right of Poetic Justice. Technical crimps up the arete then traverse left to finish.

The obvious corner left of Savage Amusement. Start from the same ledge. Up the crack. Belay to avoid rope drag. Wander right across ledge to finish up Savage Amusement.

Start: The middle line with the large dog-leg flake. Scramble up onto the ledge. Originally graded 20, but was up-graded to 22 when a loose spike was removed from just below the finger crack crux.

From the ledge, step out right, then straight up over the huge flake, move right into the crack- corner, then finger-lock the bulge (crux). Chain anchor or top out.

The route with the big block hanging out of it. 3 BRs, small wires, large stopper, #2 Friend, big muscles.

Up an easy slab then some tricky moves to the cave under the roof. Clip the 1st BR then move out and up to the top of the block, clip 2nd BR then step onto the block, clip final BR then swing out an up to slab finish. Chain anchor or top out.

Little slopers, could also be a direct start to 'Picnic at Hanging Rock'

At the end of SA Buttress and just before Inertia is a cave made by a boulder stacked on two other boulders. To get to 'Inertia', you must scramble down into the entrance to the little cave these boulders create.

Sit start under the cave on a large slopey pinch and head directly out the cave on sharp crimps to a slopey mantel top out.

This route used to be an absolute bottler until early ‘99 when an unfortunate victim tore the entire flake out of the roof. The route’s still possible, albeit at a harder grade than the original 22. Here is the original description for history’s sake. start: The roof about 10 m down left of Bootleg. Exciting climbing on big holds. Up crack to roof, then move out left via the crack in the roof, and up the wall (crux) to belay ledge. Walk off.

Has been done post flake falling off and is around the same grade.

Two rings to double ring anchor 1m right of Inertia.

No information about this route, likely an unsent project. It is one of the earliest routes with glue in rings somewhere in the late 90's. Feel free to post info if available.

Start on the big jug on the corner about 5m left of 'Inertia'. Up and then technical traverse left across the face then up into cathedral roof for a good rest. Then a thrutchy exit through the roof, up the easy slab to anchors.

Climb Springer and then change gears and bust left through the horizontal roof crack and mantle.

A bouldery direct start. Up the face on interesting moves (crux) on to the ledge and up as for 'Keystone corruption'

Clip first bolt then head slightly right and up over the flakes, a good #1 placement (avoid gear on the detached arch). Onto the slab (crux) past 2 bolts, then a short unfortunate dirty wade through some lomandra then onto a short crack up to the anchor.

Short man’s climb (The Gnome strikes again!)

Arête left of 'Psychosomatic'. Up crack, onto arête past 2 bolts to top.

The crack next to the Casuarina, the right hand end of the wall. Technical and sustained, longer than it looks. Intermittent thin cracks lead to a wider crack above. Then straight up slab to a good belay ledge and chains.

A hidden cave problem on excellent rock. A long traverse which starts easy and progressively ramps up to the crux where you turn vertically and exit out the chimney without touching the block behind you.

Start on the side pull and using the side block as a step (eliminating this will be very tough). Delicate crux right off the bat through the slopers and then progressively easier the rest of the way up, and then left to the shared anchor.

Start: Left of Don’t Get Cute

4 BRs and gear in break. Bolt belay at top.

4m left of Layabout. The wall. 1 BR. An exciting finish. Up blocks and wide crack then up wall past bolt. Belay bolt and chains.

2m left of the normal start. This avoids the fine crack. Up the wide crack.

The crack 1m left of Illusion/Going Steady. Up blocks to thin crack, up this to wide crack and top.

Start as for layabout and climb the nice hand crack; gear up to 2". When the hand crack ends follow right leading crack to the arête of "Going Steady" and finish up the arête past one bolt. Abseil off chain anchor.

The arête 2m left of Illusion. Small wires and 1 BR. Scramble up onto the Illusion ledge, then up the arête past BR near top. Belay/abseil chains.

The corner crack 1m left of And So It Goes. Very popular. Scramble up onto the ledge then jam to the top. Chains belay.

The wide crack 1m left of Heavy Metal. Scramble up to the base of wide crack, up crack an over block to top, step left an belay off Illusion’s chains.

A wall/arête route protected by bolts. The first route to use protection bolts on this crag. 4 BRs Friends or nuts for the belay. Up the wall, then the arête, connecting up the four bolts to the chain

Below the arête just right of the original line. Up the arête passing two bolts to join the original route at it’s third bolt and on up to the chain.

Water level needs to be fairly low. Fantastic juggy start then progressively harder through the face, a big dyno, then probably head left up the arete.

The juggy wall. A pleasant easy climb. Up wall, trending left to start, then back right to finish. DBB shared with JOTF

Just right of the small shrub, 3m right of S.S. Up through the bulge and onward to exit up shallow dihedral. 3 ring bolts in total to DBB

Direct project to Rodney's? Looks like the same bolts Audetat used back in the day.

Originally a very dangerous route with the possibility of decking at the crux. Has since been rebolted to satisfy the trembling hordes. An absolute bum-stinger! Start: As for Sweet Surrender. Directly up from first bolt on S.S. then trending left from second bolt to third then up (fourth bolt) to exit up groove. Double-bolt belay.

On the steepest section of rock directly below the second bolt on S.S. there is a bolt. Up past a BR to the 2nd bolt on S.S. Go up and slightly left past two more BR’s to top out. The BR to the right in the top section is still a project.

Extremely hard looking Audetat proj

Right trending seam right of Shooting Star. Along overhang past 3 bolts, then up past a 4th bolt over lip to top. DBB directly after lip.

Bring small wires to redirect the belay.

Start as for Sweet Surrender. but once you’ve clipped the fourth bolt step back down and continue traversing right to the big jug and another bolt (ignore the extra bolt in between - it’s for another route and is a real bastard to clip. From the jug haul onto the slab and up the seam (wire placement) and onto the S.S. belay bolts.

A power-endurance fest. Start: As for L.A. - clip first bolt from the block. Pump up to the jug on Trapeze then reverse this to the second bolt on R.G.M. Finish as for this route.

Start: 2-3m right of Low Flying Angel Same bolts. Boulder along under the roof (trying not to break your back) to join the original link-up and so on....

An easy tick if you are short. Start: The large flake roof at the extreme right- hand end of the buttress. Lean off the block to clip the first bolt then step back under roof. Swing out to letterbox then flip up onto the slab and continue on past another bolt. Double-bolt belay

Up the crack

Sit start on small left hand and up the slopey arete. The large foot out left is out.

Sit start on sidepulls, up through hard gaston

Downstream and uphill (north) about 30m away is a small bouldering cave with one wicked hard project.

Hard full stretch gaston through horizontal roof then onto face and up.

Five metres to the right of Shooting Star Cave and downhill is another cave created by boulders stacked on top of each other.

Sit start at the back of cave on obvious roof with a nice arete on the right. A right toe-hook on the arete and a left heel hook under the roof will get you off the ground without using the boulder at the end of the cave. Slap your right hand along the arete and use sidepull and undercling with your left. Follow the roof arete up into the chimney where it ends.

Painfully thin and technical. Use double ropes, as the third bolt could be an ankle-breaker. Up trending right past four bolts to chain.

Directly below the left end of the Black Dog Wall.

Nice slightly overhanging boulder that faces the Black Dog Wall. Start on the rounded arete on the far left of boulder, and traverse up and right on nice features to a mantle top out.

Directly below the left end of the Black Dog Wall.

Nice slightly overhanging boulder that faces the Black Dog Wall.

Sit start the crack with a high right foot and make your way powerfully to the lip and head right and mantel.

Start: Up the crack through the bulge to the top.

Strenuous jamming. Take a #4 Friend.

This boulder is 10 m down stream of Mad Woman's Breakfast.

Sitting on other boulders, there is a short roof under the boulder. From the start position, your back is to the river.

Sit start on obvious large sloping feature with your left heel by your hands. Up to a small slopey crimp, or if you like, to the very small, incut and very sharp flexing crimp. Then pull hard and throw up to rail, match then very hard mantel top out.

Start: The edge of the Chimney/Passageway.

Layback the chimney and on up to top.

Start: The diagonal seam to the right of the passageway as you walk out.

Follow the seam out to the arête, then up the arête to the top.

Start: the first route on the wall as you come out of the passage.

Up the wall passing a bolt then up cracks to top.

Start: The arête right of S.B.

Up arête/wall past two bolts and some natural protection to the top. Belay off tree further back.

Start about 2m from the left end, just right of the wasps (which are not aggressive). Up through the horizontal breaks, then through the technical face past 2 hangers.

Start: A short overhanging wall that eases to a slab. One BR.

Strenuously through the little overhang, then a rising rightward traverse past a BR to belay. Walk off. Protection is difficult to place on the traverse.

Start: Approximately 6m right of Roadblock.

A wall/corner with an off-width finish. Not a good route.

Up over horizontal jam cracks, then diagonally right to ledge. Either belay or continue up offwidth on right to top. Take a large tube or better still, don’t do it.

Start: The corner near a river oak right of Another One Bites The Dust.

Up corner crack to slanting roof, right onto edge, then right up flake crack.

Start: The arête right of Jail Bait.

Up arête, finish as for Jail Bait.

Start:- A few metres right of All the Young Punks at an obvious diagonal corner. Pitch 1. Straight up the corner, stepping right at about half height then right again just above. Finish up sharp crack. (Can be split into two short pitches if desired).

Start: Details are vague but this route is believed to start in the gully on the upstream side of the buttress.

Up obvious crack to ledge, then up right-trending crack to top.

Start: 10m down right from W.t.M.

Up obvious flake to top.

Start: The very obvious horizontal line that traverses the length of the buttress.

Quite a classic, that is undeservedly rarely climbed due to it’s obscurity. Traverse left along obvious horizontal roof crack until a few powerful moves put you on a good ledge. Continue left and down a few moves to belay at water level.

Wandering line following path of least resistance to top. Start towards the left end of the cliff. Escape through the tree on the right at the top, going left up the face would be harder but more rewarding.

Good start crimps, through broken square shapes.

Start on two slopers and up

Start left of and link into Jump2

Across the water from the Jumping boulder. Perfect sculpted castle hill problem.

Sit start on side pull, slap up to dish, then pebble wrestle your way up.

Start: The corner to the left of the thin roof crack.

Up corner crack to top.

Start: As for Motorhead Madness.

Up corner as for Motorhead Madness, then onto ledge. Up flake, then arête to top.