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description

A real eye-popper with a history of evolution, The first pitch originally involved a tension traverse and climbing over a dangerous spike and loose rock above, Subsequent parties have eliminated both these hazards and in doing so have made it a better climb. Start: A clean corner crack that curves over to the right at its end.

  1. 40m Clean jambing with some off-width up to below the spike, Step out right onto the wall, then continue up a thin scam to the roof. Undercling/jam the roof right to the tree. Bolt and wires belay.

  2. 35m Traverse right along the grassy ledge to a flakey layback groove. Up this carefully to below roofs, then move across right lo exit crack. Belay.

  3. 12m Up over scrub into chimney to top.

Route history

First free ascent: Paul Bayne & A. Legler
Jul 1978First ascent: FA J. Friend, R. Thomas & R. McClymont

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -30.63003, 151.81055

Grade citation

21 Assigned grade
21 John Lattanzio

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 83 from 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 1

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Sat 13 May
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