Routes in Bung Crag

First route on the wall, up juggy face to anchors.

Start at base of weakness. Line of bolts following weakness up the wall.

3m rt of SH, Straight up face following orange streak to lowers off first lip.

2m rt of TIOC, Up left side of featured flake up Over couple bulges to the top. Has its own lower off but better for rope to step left at last bolt and use TIOC lower off.

2m rt of MP. Bouldery start up steepish face on orange rock.

2m rt of PFP, thinish start up left hand flake over bulge to anchors

Thin start to techy face tending right to shared anchors.

Bouldery start leads to big move on big holds, surprisingly pumpy. Shared anchors.

1m lt of ROTT, Fun climbing up featured vertical face

On far right side of this part of the wall. Gain first obvious jug then jugs and big moves to the top, excellent starter climb for any beginning leader.

Just lt of crack, up over bulge and couple of mantles

Large crack just right of MEOD, 3 bolts up to sit down clip at anchors.

3m rt of crack, Bouldery start leads to juggy wall, through steep orange grove to anchors.

Starts under small overlap into shallow corner. Bouldery start with holds a plenty onto face and straight up

3m rt of OTS, Ledgey slab, could be easier or harder than 13, depends which holds ya trust

Start on Sacrifice to the Choss God, before working way up to the left, up crack good for cams. Follow line with good pro up to just before the lip of the cliff face, where a horizontal crack in the face creates space for a bomber anchor. Optional (but recommended) third pitch to the top, with large tree for anchor. Recommended gear: varied cams up to size 3 and varied nuts.

2m rt of STTCG. Up better rock then its left hand neighbour, fun climbing to shared anchors

1m left of tree, Up thinish face onto featured juggy slab to shared anchors

1m rt of tree, Up initial faint arete onto slab tending left at top to shared anchors with FWW

2m rt of MBIAC, Up featured face left of shallow corner, over cruxy bulge to the top.

Follow arete right side of ramp, step around roof and up to anchors

Shared start with DW2, traverse right at first bolt and then straight up tending left at top to shared anchors with DW2.

Same start as for ICFMB, traverse right at 4th bolt and up through faint funnel to anchors.

Up ramp clipping bolts along the way to steep face were the fun starts, big moves, big holds, great fun.

Shared start with MB, step right onto arete at first bolt up straight up. Carefil clipping second bolt, blowing it will result in nasty fall.

Very hard start off the ground to easier territory after the break. 16 grade is batman to first bolt start climbing from there, fun but short. Ground up ascent awaits.

Up easy ramp at left hand end of wall to first bolt

Bouldery start then easily up ramp to right. Steep jug hauling until crux and finish to right of the diving board.

Bouldery start to easier climbing. A good 20A0 if you pull on first draw

Hard start to second bolt then pleasant grade 19 climbing to anchors via overhang and flake. Finishes at large horizontal ledge.

Goes to top of wall via large L facing flake and roof. Needs 70m rope.

Up through 2 roofs, the lower one the harder

Up slab and flake at right end of wall, through small roof onto thin slab. Finish on large ledge

A second pitch to either TAB or S. Up through two roofs. 32 m to ground from anchors.

Up slab at right hand end of wall with a long reach in the upper third. Mantle onto ledge to share anchors with TAB

Just to the right of the red wall there is a crack for 6 metres leading into juggy ironstone and onto ledge under main wall

Access to the overhanging orange wall up high. Right of crack at blunt arete, wander up past the occasional bolt to DBB on left hand nd of ledge

From the DBB at left hand end of ledge climb steep ironstone corner/arete

From the belay above "Little Leprechaun", traverse 4m right and climb mossy wall past 2 spaced rings and some small cams, to double ring bolt belay.

Traverse left under roof (#2) into narrow hand crack. Clip bolt on face after second roof and up to anchors above ledge

Battle up ferns to ramp. Step left onto wall then 3 bolts to ledge (medium cam helpful). Continue up line of bolts past 1 lone carrot. The direct version of Indian takeaway

Start from ledge at right end of wall. Shared start with IG, up flake the traverse left after 3 bolts and up

Shared start at flake then continue straight up.

The Right end corner

Scarily past 6 carrots to 2 rusty carrot anchors. The left route on the wall

Mixed route

From belay bolt on ledge head up face, and right following ring bolts to arete finish

Head right from belay bolt then up past carrot, fixed hanger, some gear in flake and another carrot to now shared anchor with ELHL.

Start up incipient crack, moving right, to ledge then follow prominent black streak

A link up that avoids cruxes of both routes, but is still quite sustained. Start up GGMM to the 6th bolt then head right to arête and finish up NP

Start up crack then moving right to hanging arete, and continue up arete to shared anchors

Slightly easier than the seam start, stick clip high bolt then up to flake (#3 cam) and then up to ledge to either route. A #1 cam also may be handy.

Up left side of spire, laying off the arete when you can in between the pockets.

Straight up the middle, past diagonal flake through overlap to the top

From common start take the left route

From common start take right ward route through overhang. Probably 22 if tall and 24 up if short or very short.

Found on face directly off fire trail. Left line on black face. Climbs up face with some interesting moves up to shared anchor.

Right line on black face. Climbs up jugs all the way to shared anchor.

30m right of Phatty's last stand. 4m of steep tight hand crack then 8m of rubbish. The dishwasher-sized block with the tempting jugs, perched at the top of the crack, is detached and vibrates. Recording the climb anyway in case anyone else is tempted, so at least you know to climb around that one, and continue taking care on everything else.

Slightly under cut start then jug haul to the top. A good warm up route for the area.

2m rt of BM. Straight up orange face left side of big cave, getting slightly steeper at the top.

Left of obvious scoop. Juggy fun varied climbing, Just follow the 5 bolts straight to lower offs.

Shared start with SF, tend right at 3rd bolt into funnel.

Fun climbing with variety of moves, following face just right of the scoop.

Up redish face 3m rt of obvious scoop, Good face climbing with a rest halfway.

The track hits the wall here. Easy start to a couple of mantle style moves up ramp rt at top to shared anchors with YCTAA

Up obvious blunt bulgey arete

3m rt of YCTAA, start up thin slab, passing some ledges to the top

3m rt of WIWITN, slab with a mantle or two

2m of D&G, up slab to mantle over obvious feature up high, shared anchors with D&G

2m rt of BME, up the next obvious blunt arete tending rt to shared anchors

2m rt of BW, next obvious blunt arete tending left at top to shared anchors

20m rt of BME around the corner. Route used to get to the summit of pagoda, bolted on lead originally with coach screws, re-bolted with glue-ins later. Tend right up dirty ramp to short juggy face, onto ledge, anchors here to lower off...if continuing to top just pull on the fixed hand line on the low angled slab to top. Note hanger at anchors is just a coach screw in no glue...do not use it as single anchor points (there for fixed hand line only)...use rings instead.

100m further around the pagoda on south side, arete right side of obvious funnel.

2m rt of funnel, up featured face to ledge and anchors.

The next four routes are on the wall opposite Pagoda environs before you walk down and around to the Surprise wall proper.

Left most climb, tending left up juggy slab with a few mantles to lower offs.

Mantle onto slab up to small overlap up steeper face

2m rt of TDTKRP, up short corner to juggy face tending slight right halfway to shared anchors.

Big moves and varied climbing straight up to shared anchors.

Access route to gain large ledge. Steep juggy traverse.

Starts off large ledge up right leaning flake, straight up. Can just rap to ground with 60m rope.

From far end of ledge step onto ironstone wall and up through roof. Interesting and disconcerting rock

The offwidth corner at left hand of ledge system to DBB

From left end of ledge at belay bolt start up crack to head wall (2 RBs) and DBB.

From ledge step off block and up slab to orange overhang.

A 50m rope does reach the ground when lowering-off, but only 1m spare, make sure your 50m rope is 50m.

Up flake then easily up black wall onto orange headwall

From ledge up flake via tricky thin moves to easier but lichenous ground until final overhang

Start as for RSITS but at ledge at start of orange headwall, head right on separate line of bolts to join shared anchors of ITV.

Bridge off tree to get onto right end of wall then up mostly juggy holds.

A 50m rope does reach the ground when lowering-off, but only 1m spare, make sure your 50m rope is 50m.

Start 1m left (directly below the steep upper crack) of monster block that forms chimney. P1 20m 21. Thin crack to flaky block in left facing corner, right to fern and roof, crack to break. P2 45m 21 steeping crack to cave at top. Descend down gully on left.

Crack line that parallels the upper pitches of Bungleborri Crack. P1 as per Bungleborri Crack. P2 40m 22. Traverse 4 metres left to crack, up past roof then corner to ledge, on to top.

Start 20m left of Bungleborri Crack at a left facing corner.

1. 20m 22. Diagonally right to arete (3 BRs), up past 2 breaks, wall to ledge, belay off 2.5 to 4 friends.

2. 30m 22. Corner to immovable boulder. traverse up and right, jugs, to bolt belay (carrots) above arete.

Not sure where this route is located in relation to all the new routes. The original description is. West facing wall 300m metres south west of Bungleborri Crack. Start at small right facing corner below right leading crack. Corner and crack (rock improves), wall and arete to double bolt belay (carrots). 5 bolts and doubles on big cams.

Start at left end of wall, at short shallow right facing corner that turns into a left facing corner. Originally graded 20.

Crack system to lower-offs

Really thin start, then up slab with a tricksy transition into the overlap and leaning crack to shared lower-offs. Originally graded 23.

Boulder start, slab to roof (do or fly). Pumpy face above on some big rounded features. Marked "23!" at base.

start either slightly left of chossy arete, or go straight up from the right. average rock at the start leads to high quality finish.