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Route in Caves Route Variant

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
4 Caves Route Variant

This is the easy alternative to the original Caves Route's Chimney, which, minus the original log, is pretty stiff. Most rock climbers & seasoned bush walkers will choose to climb this unroped, whilst this description is aimed at those roped ascents.

  1. 17m 4 Start at the "CR" painted on the rock: climb trending right past the vegetation, then directly up to the DBB belay. A short pitch which provides the opportunity to track anyone you are belaying, or abseil back down & belay them on TR.

  2. 37m 4 Continue up the ledges, mounting trees, up to the big shoulder & DBB.

  3. 36m 4 Head up right from the belay, then left up the concave scoop, to a small ledge with a tree on it, from here, head up the steep, exposed section right to a natural belay ledge & a single clip biner on chains.

  4. 48m Unroped scramble up through Cave 1, then left (facing the cliff), to the lh side & belay tree.

  5. 49m 4 Scramble carefully over the rock & along the narrow precipitous ledge to the end, then right up the rock slab to the anchors (2 sets of anchors, the higher set being the better for roped parties.)

  6. 60m 1 Unroped scramble up the rock terrace, and follow the well beaten path through the scrub to the base of the slab.

  7. 55m 4 Climb the slab, directly in front of where the path meets it, to a concave scoop in the rock, from here, head out left delicately on the 45° slab & angle up right to a natural belay ledge

    & DBB.

  8. 37m 2 Scamble across the sloping ledge, then up the small cliff face at the end to the shoulder & rejoin the original Caves Route.

  9. 155m 1 Walk/scramble up the shoulder, through bush & up rock ledges to meet the West Track.

FA:

Trad 500m, 9

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