Asses Ears Area Guide

An exposed face route up the left edge of the orange wall that rarely gets an ascent. Start at left end of the wall, just left of the bolted route Valencia. Follow the line of discontinuous cracks and breaks keeping to the left side of the wall until the angle eases towards the top.

Start as for Golden 'Delicious' then traverse directly right to camo FH (stickclip recommended). Fingery moves (BR) lead to thin crux and horizontal. Through small bulge and up on spaced holds to small ledge and U-bolt anchor. Takes plenty of medium wires. A loose second pitch is possible up 20m grade 15 wall above.

Starts about 6m right of Golden 'Delicious'. A bouldery thin start past a BR gains a short rounded crack. From above this the climbing eases and heads slightly left to finish at U-bolt anchor (as for Valencia).

An audacious arete about 10m right of Valencia. Climb the gully to gain the arete from the left side. Head up and rightwards to gain the arete proper and follow it with dramatic positions and only occasional trad runners.

Strenuous jamming. The crack in the centre of the orange wall to the right of the prominant prow (Cox's Orange?). 1. 18m The crack to the large ledge. 2. 14m Up the wall and through the roof to belay the bird poo. 3. 14m To exit, step down and traverse rightwards down and across the wall to the rock in the gully.

The prominent slightly overhung arête in an exposed position. Sustained and absorbing climbing with some spaced bolts up high. Six rings and one optional large wire. Lower-off anchors.

Line up heavily featured wall 2m right of Can't Stop Progress. Climb into the route from the right (trad) and onto the face (RB). Weave up the slightly overhung wall above which gets harder and steeper near the finish. The end moves feature some great pinch ribs and large pockets. Five RB's in all. Lower-off same anchor as CSP.

Reachy. A hidden gem on steep pocketed grey rock. Located aprox 50m around left of Old Masters on the right wall of a chimney. The climb is hidden from view behind some trees. Scramble up 5m mossy gully to chimney and spot FH's on right wall. Reachy moves on tendon and finger friendly rock and some of the biggest bomber jugs lead to the top. Three FH's and wires. Double bolt lower-off.

This searing cracked arete is the best line at Asses Ear. Unfortunately hard trad routes are remarkably unfashionable and this has had minimal if any repeats. Start as for Triptych but instead of bailing off right at 15m keep climbing the crack direct. The crack fades and difficulty escalates at the top.

Death by fingercrack. This is a love it or hate it route depending on how much you enjoy jamming your fingers into slippery splitters. At the left end of the main cliff is this splitter crack. 1. 12m (22) Up tough finger crack until you can hand traverse 5m right to stance below next crack. Belay here or link into next pitch. 2. 11m (22) Short fingercrack then right and up to belay stance. 3. 27m (18) Fantastic easy fingercrack in a great position.

Takes the wall in between Triptych and PR with 2 FH. After the thin start, easier climbing leads to steep slab. Straight over juggy roof and instead of finishing up easy corner, veer R over the roof and up compact headwall. Gear to size 2 Camelot.

An impressive roof on the second pitch. 1. 30m Start as for Roger Over and Out and continue up the wall to belay below a shallow, open-book corner capped by a roof. 2. 30m Up with difficulty into the corner, which is followed to the roof. Hand traverse right along the picture rail to finish up a crack.

A fun juggy ramble sharing the same start as Picture Rail. 1. 45m Follow the right trending ramp flake to belay on the arete below the roof. 2. 5m Bail off right into the gully and exit up over the chockstones into the descent route.

Chossy for a Grampians route. New South Wales climbers would call it classic. Starts 15m right of Rodger Over and Out on the vague arete opposite The Infinite Sadness. Weave your way through line of least resistance, taking care not to remove all the holds.

Loose and scary. Still on the Triptych pinnacle, starting 4m right of Brighton Beach on the wall opposite Wirilda on the left side of the descent chasm. Up to threaded keyhole at 8m then crack and corner system

Anyone for a free ascent? The vertical crack below the start of Cold Stone & Sober and halfway down the lower section of the Descent Chasm. Free up to thin crack in the small roof, aid this, then finish up left of the chockstone capping roof.

A quality first pitch hidden away. Starts from the right end of the ledge above the first section of chimney of the Descent Chasm (right of Steph and the Boys). 1. 20m (17) Up the series of weaknesses on the grey wall for 5m then traverse right until the difficulty eases. Continue up to belay on top of a small corner, as for Melancholia and Wirilda. 2. 45m (11) Left and up the twin chimneys (as for Melancholia pitch 2).

Starts up Cold Stone & Sober, but head straight up over rooflet, then back left via an funky and intimidating mantle. Straight up easier finish, which is more solid than it appears. Up to double rings on L to rap back into chasm.

Features good climbing on exceptional rock. Plenty of good gear; take small wires to a number 3 cam, and double ropes might help.

Up Wirilda for about 8m, clip bolt and head up leaning arete, which gets rather close to the Triptych buttress (avoid bridging), make a move back right to gain the diagonal line which is followed easily. When the holds seem to run out, a couple of small wires protects some tricky moves left to gain layback crack (and small/med cam). Straight through final overlap and up to belay on small bushy ledge (slings). Finish up P2 of Wirilda, or do a short pitch up to large ledge and rap rings (lands you in descent chasm).

This classic short mutl-pitch is the most popular route at the crag. A great mix of gritty jugs and exposure. Take a bunch of slings for lassoing the jugs on pitch 1. Starts about 30m right of Triptych, at ground level on the right side of the Descent Chasm at a juggy grey rounded arete. 1. 35m (18) Up for 10m, step right then back left to surmount a smooth bulge. Up keeping to the left. Finish via a crack in the smooth wall just right and below a bush on the belay ledge. 2. 35m (19) Up ramp right to BR. Traverse 3m right to arete and up ramp diagonally left (as for Infinite Sadness). At top of ramp, step left to hanging prow which is followed direct to the top. Stay on steepest part of headwall for best climbing and pro.

Excellent sustained climbing - a technical crux followed by slope after slope. Starts as for Infinite Sadness, moving left into left leaning seam. Follow seam to bulge, snatch what rest you can then up past 2 FHs until wall relents. Easily to rap chains below juggy overhang.

An easier finish to Infinite Kindness. Climb that route into left leaning seam and up to bulge. Traverse 2m right then up to jugs and rest. Take a deep breath, arrange some pro then up through slopers until the wall relents. Rap off shared rap chain.

Takes a direct line through the roofs and orange rock at the top of the cliff. Start 10m right of Wirilda at a thin seam at the right hand fin of rock. 1. 30m (22) Follow the rightward rising line past a horn of rock. Step right at the steepening to jugs. Up to belay on stance at the right hand end of roof. 2. 25m (16) Through the roof at right hand end then the wall trending right to belay on the traverse of Melancholia. 3. 30m (18) Up the wall to the left leading ramp at the edge of the orange rock. The ramp then back right to the corner and up until beneath the roof. Outrageous climbing through the left hand end of the roof with exposure and holds to match.

Very lichenouos, plenty of loose rock and suspect holds. Get up early to avoid the queues. Starts 5m right of The Infinite Sadness at juggy groove. Up the groove following the weakness all the way to belay on the Melancholia traverse.

Makes Melancholia independent of Bullfrog. Climb arete left of Bullfrog's corner, moving onto wall left of arete as soon as possible. Up delightful juggy grey wall to belay at left end of roof.

A popular easy route, but be warned the protection is spaced on the first pitch. Start on top of a boulder at the landmark corner at the top of the approach track. 1. 30m (11) Up the corner then up and left to belay under the left end of the roof. This is same as pitch 1 of Bullfrog. 2. 30m Up and across diagonally left around arete. Traverse left on exposed jugs until below a small mossy corner. 3. 50m Up corner then across large ledge. Left to twin chimneys and up these to top.

The original route on the cliff. A classic corner. The final pitch is like an extended Resignation.

1. 30m (11) The major corner then up and left to belay under the left end of the roof.

2. 20m Up the left side of the roof, and step right onto the face above.

3. 50m (14) Step right and climb the steadily overhanging headwall, which eases.

The top pitch up the overhanging headwall is one of the best around. 1. 30m Up the nice arete immediately right of Bullfrog. 2. 20m Step right then up through the overhang and up the wall to good ledge. 3. 50m Straight up. A short crack, overhanging jugs, bulge then the seam split in the centre of the smooth grey headwall. Continue more easily.

Another top quality headwall on the final pitch. Start about 15m right of Bullfrog and 7m right of a deep cleft a the first pine tree beside the cliff. 1. 40m Up to a small rock pedestal then thinly up to jugs. Continue up the vertical wall until the angle eases then up to belay in the niche at the base of the prominent crack (the second belay of Flying Feeling). 2. 40m Up the crack (Flying Feeling) for 3m then take the rising traverse out right to the vertical crack. Up this to the pale grey horizontal bulge. Move right and up steeply. The drama continues until a good belay ledge appears 3m to the left. 3. 20m Move back right and up prominent patch of white rock to corner which leads to the top.

The awesome upper headwall between Pearly Gates and La Petite Mort. First ascent was by three unknown Americans who thought they were on La Petite Mort. Grade is a rough guess and protection looks rare.

A great third pitch. Bold and a little dirty. Starts 10m right of Pearly Gates at a casurnia tree growing against the cliff in the centre of the wall. 1. 40m Climb the tree (!), traverse right 4m then up the crack and face to belay at a tree. 2. 30m Traverse 20m left, ascending slowly to the base of a prominent crack. 3. 30m Climb the crack until holds forces a traverse left for about 10m. Climb the easiest section in the juggy wall above below two horns of rock.

Amazing wall climbing on the second pitch. Bring slings and a full rack. 1. 40m (16) Start up Flying Feeling and move further right (8m in total) to the next crack. Up crack and prow then left and up past tree to base of mighty headwall. 2. 40m (19) Blast straight up the outstanding overhung headwall finishing just right of vague prow. Gear is spaced on this pitch.

A tree-free start that evens out the pitches on this classic route. Start on top of the highest flake right of the original start. Surmount the overhang (crux), step right then face directly to join crack and first belay of La Petit Mort.

The controversial bolting of this route warranted an editorial in Rock magazine! 'Steep' wall climbing perfection. A harder and more sustained version of La Petit Mort with bolts protecting the crux moves. First ascent was in a snow storm.

1. 33m (16) Starts 8m right of 'Le Petit Mort' at small tree and first line of weakness leading leftwards. Juggy wall climbing with a mossy start and finish. Three BR's and assorted natural gear. Belay on small ledge below headwall with slings around giant chicken heads about 8m left of Die Young's corner. A 60m rope will only just make it to the ground from the slings if you swing to the right.

2. 31m (20) Head up and left on jugs for 6m then up balancy wall aiming for BR under small bulge. Over small rooflet (fiddly small cams) and rightwards up wall above past BR and FH to rest under daunting overhang. Swing upwards on amazing pumpy buckets past three FH's to trad finish up juggy wall and over finish bulge to bolt anchor on lip. Rapping from this anchor will JUST reach the belay on a 60m rope. Bring a full sized rack including 12 long quickdraws.

Super! The line of most resistance up the main face and a harder second pitch to 'Snow Flurries'. Reachy and atmospheric climbing with great protection. Belay as for 2nd pitch of 'Snow Flurries'. Climb straight up from the belay aiming for the two FH's on the blank wall above. Five metres above the second FH step left and join up with 'Snow Flurries' for its final 15m of pumpy conclusion. Direct finish possible with a few more bolts? DRB rap anchor will JUST reach the belay on a 60m rope. Bring a full sized rack including 12 long quickdraws.

This corner is the most prominent line on the right side of the face. Starts about 20m right of La Peitite Mort at corner below large white bird poo stain. 1. 35m Easy corner to belay on the face before the steeping. 2. 35m Negotiate the corner above by climbing out right immediately below a small roof then up to the bird poo niche. Traverse 2m left then up the overhanging wall for about 20m until it is possible to exit right onto a ledge. To descend, traverse right along ledge system and then rap off slings (42m)

A better more direct finish - the natural line. From first belay continue as for Die Young but tend left to large chickenhead (ignore traverse right). Steeply overhanging groove to more chickenheads then wide groove to ledge.

A good alternative first pitch for Die Young. Start at the flake 5m left of Euthanasia. 1. 40m Climb the flake and weakness above to stance in middle of wall. Follow line to left side of wall. Up and right a bit to belay a few metres above the Euthanasia bucket stance (next to bolt on Euthanasia Direct Finish). Finish as for Die Young.

Excellent climbing taking in the crux of Die Young whilst adding a much improved first pitch. Start at the entrance to the large chasm at the right side of the face. 1. 35m Up and left to a shallow corner 2m right of the arete. Go up this to a curving corner line leading left across the face. Follow the closed corner, at times on the face, to the bucket stance. 2. 30m Continue up and step left (old piton) into the bird poo niche of Die Young. Continue as for Die Young.

A sensationally overhung route using two aids (one is a bolt) which would no doubt go free. Start as for pitch 2 of Euthanasia.1. 10m Gain the bolt above the belay and traverse right to a nut placement then continue up to ledge. 2, 12m Up the broken line above to easier ground.

Seam right of Mexican wave.

Strenuous. Orange corner 3m L of CD. Delicately crank past rotten piece of rock (essential) to gain thin crack. Up, then traverse L 2m and up overhung arete (be careful of more lose stuff on ledge). Up corner above. Exit L, and traverse back R to belay. To descend, lower to next ledge and walk off.

Thin, right leading weakness. Start at tree growing at base.

Same start off tree as 'Cold Turkey' but instead fire straight up flakes and jugs on perfect marbled rock.

On the far left side of The 'Chicken' Boulder. An easy leftwards hand traverse along flake leads to juggy vertical wall.

Little sport plaything with a tough finish. Reasonably weather protected. Run-out start as for 'Tarred and Feathered' to first ringbolt, then hard traverse left past another ring then up overhung rib past 2 rings to double ring lower-off. Extend first bolt with sling to avoid ropedrag.

Three ringbolts blasting up orange overhung wall to the left of 'The Pecking Order'. Shares first bolt of 'Rings Around'. The route features long moves between good holds and finishes at twin rings.

Right leaning weakness in the middle of the 'Chicken' Boulder. Pro is a bit tricky to place.

Climbs the highest, slabby west face with limited protection.

Right leaning juggy line on far right side of cliff. Angle eases considerably after first 8m. Step left across line and up wall to finish via headwall right of corner.

Start as for 'The Green Man', about 5m right of 'Battered Flake'. Up easy crack for 5m then traverse left across break to flake in steepness above. Up flake on big jugs (FH), traverse right (crux) to hard vertical transition move and then into good crack. When the angle gets easier step left on the arete and up this juggy wall to the BF anchor.

A good central line on the main face which suffers from some loose rock. Approach the orange right facing corner by climbing in from the left. Up the corner (crux), with some small and hard to place gear – bring RP's. From under the roof, traverse right a few metres then up the flake crack above on good jugs. Rap rings are located on the belay ledge.

A long and sustained wall climb on featured grey rock. Bring a full rack, long slings and several RPs for the opening corner of 'Battered Flake'. Climb 'Battered Flake' for 15m to roof. Traverse left for two metres across horizontal then bust through roof (FH) and up sustained and absorbing wall above past a further two FHs and plenty of trad gear. Rap 38m off double rings on ledge (requires two ropes).

Blasts up the prominent orange flakes and groove in the center of the main face five metres left of BF. Up to shallow right facing flake, then direct up past two FH's. Step left after 2nd bolt to gain black groove and up. Run up final slab to rap rings. Loses a star because of bad natural pro.

Awesome thin climbing on grit-like rock. Blank looking wall with five FH's just left of 'Memento'. Boulder problem start, middle and end with the occasional good hold thrown in to ward off the pump. At small ledge boulder through rooflet and slab easily up to twin rings.

The best of a great trio. Ignore the FH and climb pocketed right side of chimney (wires) then traverse right to BR. Up superb textured slab past two more BR's to break (medium SLCD). Finish easily up slab to twin rings high on ledge.

The desperate crank past the FH steps the grade up quite considerably.

Start at the chimney flanking the left side of the impressive wall with bolts.

1. 30m (14) Up the chimney. At the first chance step right onto easy angled slab and belay on twin rings above 'Felix'.

2. 40m (14) Finish up juggy corner above.

Megaline. Good climbing. Start up S (which soon wanders off right). Continue up corner-chimney passing three big overhangs and through a hole behind the fourth.

Around the left side of the buttress left of Woof. Start just right of chimney gully. Can be done in one pitch with twin ropes - watch out for rope drag.

1. 25m (16) Crack through blocks to bulge, a step right avoids difficulties. Go up short flake and follow huge jugs on right to a small ledge with a bush.

2. 15m (16) Step left and directly up face veering right at the top to exit onto a small ledge, continue straight up on jugs. Take slings. To reach abseil chains above BF crawl along ledges on the right.

Orange corner with blocky roof about 6m left of 'Prison Camp'.

1. 25m (19) Up corner, hand traverse left onto small stance then step back right and through juggy roof crack to small ledge. Be careful of some loose looking blocks in the roof crack.

2. 10m (16) Bulging crack on the right wall above belay ledge. At first opportunity traverse right onto small ledge and excellent big thread anchor around bollard. Rap from this or scramble off right along ledges to reach Battered Flakes anchor.

Start about 60m left of SC at rock cairn. The route follows a left trending line then climbs an overhung corner. A boulder problem start gets the blood flowing for the pumpy overhung middle section which is protected by excellent wires. Natural pro belay on small ledge. Rap off slings around small bollard (may need to be replaced).

Flared crack 3m R of Abercrombie, then middle of wall.

Widish straight crack on R side of gully R of Cracker Puss.

Flakeline between Skating and Royal Flush.

7 metres from the road

Up crack right of NW

Small corner 2 metres left of second main corner. Line fades as it curves right to final bulges

Right side of arete right of Sort-Ed

Small crack opposite boulder 6 metres right of JfG

Right side of tunnel. Crack Half way up veer left up thin crack. Finish under roof

Shallow corner right of tunnel

Large crack 4 metres right of Fred

Left side of slabby corner. 2 RBs Finish up left facing shallow corner

ES to first RB. Veer right to left edge of slabby corner then up

Mantel just right of slabby corner. RB. Up to corner and up to pillar. Finish as for LU.

Start up steep crack 2 metres right of WDYDtL?, right to flake, up

Adds some interest to Houdini. It's not the Direct Finish (the unclimbed fused blank orange corner), but the thin face 2m R. Ie, do half the crux traverse on Houdini, but before getting to the easy ground of Recessed Wall, mantle on the break and go straight up past a good surface wire to the roof. Then step R to rejoin the original.

Path is right beside the boulder so the landing is well cleared.

The obvious deep chimney in large corner is enjoyable the whole way. A bit run out and delicate, although good holds and gear do pop up, they are just not obvious from the ground.

Start: 3 = 30m 12*