Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Hindu Kush | |||||
20 | Serpents KIss
At the right-hand end of the main cliff-line there is a very steep wall, Little Tjuringa Wall. The shelter is 100 metres further left. At the right end of Little Tjuringa Wall is a short, black, seamy-looking corner. Start up the right crack, step left and up with difficulty to the horizontal. Up easy headwall to belay. FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2001 | 15m | |||
12 | Andy Long Route
Two compact grey buttresses can be seen at the top of the ridge while walking up. They are best seen from Snake-Bite Pass. Take the left buttress, starting on the left and finishing up the crack on the right of the top face. FA: Andy Long, 1992 | 25m | |||
16 | ★ sanitize review
No description FA: S Pateman & S Holloway, 2004 | 12m | |||
The Hindu Kush Couple Of Pansies Wall | |||||
6 | Newby
Climb crack above cairn for 8 metres, step left and continue up wall. FA: Gordon Talbett & Alan Hope, 1992 | 25m | |||
18 | Jesus Gotta Do This
25 metres left of Newby at the base of the steep, loose slope and near the right-hand end of the large overhang is an overhanging crack/corner. The steep crack and corner. Possible belay then short wall above and left. FA: Alan Hope, Andy Long & Annette Halley, 1992 | 40m | |||
11 | Couple Of Pansies
Start 30 metres left of the shelter cave where the roof ends and there is a grey wall. Bridge off the dead tree and pull onto the wall. Up 2 metres then traverse right for 3 metres until level with a tree, then up steeply. FA: Gordon Talbett & Dave Gairns, 1993 | 26m | |||
13 | Whispers Of Immortality
Pull up to traverse line then traverse above the lip of overhang almost to the dark brown rock (25m) then up finish via a short corner. Start: Start 2 metres left of "A Couple Of pansies". FA: James McIntosh & Gordon Talbett, 1994 | 40m | |||
10 | Sahay
Start as for "Couple Of Pansies" then go straight up wall just right of second tree. FA: Geoff Butcher & Tanya Freeman, 1997 | 15m | |||
14 | A Preposterous Adventure
Between the Couple Of Pansies wall and the Tower Of Silence is a gully.Scramble up the gully, walk right below a wall with a strong roof line and then uphill past the right end of this wall and back left above it. If you're not lost, above is a steep wall with a pronounced left-leaning diagonal line on its right side. Originally done in two pitches. Scramble up the wall a bit to a ledge about 6 metres left of the diagonal line. Up to the diagonal, then up the steep groove to a stance. Follow the line up and left, and then climb the steep grey wall to the top, taking care with blocks on top. FA: Dave Gairns & Gordon Talbett, 1993 | 36m | |||
The Hindu Kush Tower of Silence | |||||
11 | Tower Of Silence
Scramble up to the base of the tower which has a wide, juggy groove below the right arete.
FA: Gordon Talbett & Peter Watling, 1992 | 72m | |||
13 | A Short Walk In The Hindu Kush
Hideously fragile finish. Start as for Tower Of Silence.
FA: Gordon Talbett & Alan Hope, 1992 | 65m | |||
18 | Meetings With Remarkable Men
FA: James McIntosh & Sharon George (alt), 1997 | 60m, 2 | |||
The Hindu Kush Krak de Chevaliers Terrace | |||||
16 | I Used To Be A Sport Climber But I'm Allright Now
Start: Start 20 metres right of "Pissoir" at a steep orange wall
| 75m, 2 | |||
17 | Ki Jaye
Start 2 metres left of "I Used To Be etc". Climb on small edges to horizontal break then straight up wall to ledge. Walk off left to gully. FA: Geoff Butcher & Tanya Freeman, 1997 | 20m | |||
10 | Pissoir
Follow the water streak, trending slightly left of it towards the top. Scramble up the slabs on the left until able to step across the gully beneath the water streak. FA: Gordon Talbett & Andy Long, 1992 | 45m | |||
11 | Bon Soir
Start up Pissoir and step left after the initial overlap. Up the grey wall (just right of Krak De Chevaliers) and then straight up, aiming for the right-hand end of the roof at the top. Tree belay. FA: Dave Gairns & Gordon Talbett, 1993 | 45m | |||
10 | Krak De Chevaliers
From just left of Bon Soir climb up to the flake/crack line and follow this up and left. Pull through an obvious break in the roof and on to the top. FA: Gordon Talbett & Andy Long, 1992 | 45m | |||
15 | Man In The High Castle
| 50m | |||
The Hindu Kush Frank Zappa Tier | |||||
17 | ★ Bonanza Jellybean
Small wall just before track reaches Frank Zappa alcove. Up small right-facing flake, step right and up over bulge into small hanging corner. Easy to top. FA: Steve Holloway & Simon Pateman, 2004 | 12m | |||
20 | ★★ Frank Zappa
A stunning climb. Short people can add a couple of grades. On the lower tier, directly below The Tower Of Silence, the distinctive corner of very compact rock. FA: Andy Long & Bill Farrand, 1993 | 16m | |||
The Hindu Kush Main Wall | |||||
10 | Thelonius Monkey
Up the ramp, just before the Main Wall, is a big right-jutting roof with a chimney above. There is a big block on the ramp below the roof. Scramble 6 metres to the top of the block (belay possible). Step from the right end of the ledge and climb straight up the steep juggy wall (do not veer right into the groove). FA: Gordon Talbett & Peter Whitfield, 1993 | 46m | |||
15 | Last Temptation
Climb the wall by the right-hand crack to the left edge of the obvious overhang. Pull through this and continue directly up to the finishing ledge. Continue up the ramp to the right arete of the Main Wall where there are two cracks. Belay from a tree. FA: Andy Long & Gordon Talbett, 1992 | 40m | |||
10 | Divine Invasion
Steep and exposed but with good holds and protection Start just left of Last Temptation Up the left-hand crack to a horizontal break and step left into another thin crack. Follow this crack and then trend right to a belay ledge. FA: Andy Long, Alan Hope & Annette Halley, 1992 | 40m | |||
12 | Android Dreaming
Walk left below the ramp leading to the Main Wall until a grey buttress is reached, directly below a steep crack-line in Main Wall above. Alternatively, continue left from the foot of Frank Zappa to here.
FA: -) Climb the grey buttress to the ledge. P2 (30m, 12) Up the crack-line directly behind the first pitc, Gordon Talbett & Andy Long, 1992 | 55m | |||
The Hindu Kush The Donjon | |||||
17 | Triad
Steep climbing on generally good rock. Start 4 metres left of Android Dreaming's belay. Straight up wall to short corner. Up to horizontal break then pull through onto steep headwall. Step right, to finish just left of Android Dreaming. FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2000 | 30m | |||
17 | Trouble With Effy
More good climbing on excellent rock. Start a few metres left of Triad Go right, then left to crack then up and left to horizontals. Ignore Effy Sportage(diagonal) and climb shallow corner to major horizontal. Finish up final overhang of Effy Sportage. FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2000 | 20m | |||
10 | Effy Sportage
A pleasant doddle with steep finish taking the obvious diagonal line. FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2000 | 20m | |||
15 | Rock Hudson
Start as for Effy Sportage. Climb the wall and corner directly above to the horizontal. Step right then pull over the short, steep headwall on jugs. FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 2000 | 18m | |||
The Hindu Kush Coodabeen Buttress | |||||
10 | Wannabe Hardmen
Start 1.5 metres left of the left-hand water streak.
FA: Alan Hope, Gordon Talbett & John Lamb, 1993 | 70m, 2 | |||
11 | Coodabeen Hardmen
Start 2.5 metres left of the left-hand water streak.
FA: Peter Watling, Gordon Talbett & Dave Gairns, 1992 | 70m, 2 | |||
10 | A Climb For St Cecilia's Day
Start between the water streaks, as for Coodabeen Hardmen.
| 72m, 2 | |||
14 | Hot Pants Explosion
Start 80 metres left of A Climb For St Cecilia's Day.
FA: Andy Long & Gordon Talbett, 1992 | 60m, 2 | |||
15 | Cross-Eyed And Deflated
Start 6 metres left of Hot Pants Explosion.
FA: Mark Poustie, Gordon Talbett & Alan Hope, 1993 | 48m, 2 | |||
The Hindu Kush Jayne Mansfields Bum Buttress | |||||
16 | Twist And Shout
Start at the right edge of Jayne Mansfield's Bum buttress.
FA: Andy Long & Gordon Talbett, 1992 | 45m, 2 | |||
22 | Jayne Mansfield
Start: Start at the loose line on the right side of the buttress just left of Twist and Shout.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Geoff Butcher (alt), 1997 | 45m, 2 | |||
17 | Hollywood Babylon
Start: Start as for" The Worst Job In The World".
FA: Geoff Butcher & Glenn Tempest (alt), 1997 | 40m, 2 | |||
9 | The Worst Job In The World
The slabby buttress left of Jayne Mansfield's Bum, avoiding the tricky bits. A variety of exits are possible from the top of the pinnacle; the left-most crack on the small pinnacle behind is probably the easiest. FA: Andy Long, 1992 | 35m | |||
16 | Rock Bottom
Start at the next buttress left of The Worst Job In The World Climb the central seam of the buttress, stepping left to avoid the obvious bulge. Regain the line and climb to the ledge. Possible belay here before climbing the the grungy 6 metre-high buttress behind. FA: Andy Long & Gordon Talbett, 1992 | 31m | |||
9 | Joan Crawford
Climb the juggy groove on the right. From the ledge, climb the steep little wall just left of the crack. Start: Start as for "Back Passage". FA: Michael Hampton & Kym Sinclair, 1997 | 31m | |||
9 | Back Passage
Start: Start just left of "Rock Bottom".
FA: Peter Watling & Tony Brotherton (alt), 2000 | 32m, 2 | |||
The Hindu Kush Pyramid Tiers | |||||
9 | Mir Samir
Just left of the descent gully on the lower tier is a ragged groove with some small bushes in it. Up the groove (loose block near bush) then up water-polished wall and over the overhang at the top. FA: Gordon Talbett, Andy Long & Ian Newell, 1993 | 40m | |||
15 | The Golden Road To Samarkand
20 metres left of Mir Samir are two seams starting from a black recess. Take the left-hand black seam with ragged jugs. At the ledge pull over the overhang with some dubious holds and continue up. FA: Gordon Talbett, Andy Long & Bill Farrand, 1993 | 35m | |||
18 | Pyramid Power
40 metres left of Mir Samir is a grey-orange pyramid below massive roofs.
FA: Bill Farrand, Gordon Talbett (alt) & Andy Long, 1993 | 47m, 2 | |||
13 | Turkestan
Start at the left side of the pyramid, as for Pyramid Power.
FA: Gordon Talbett & Dave Gairns, 1993 | 47m, 2 | |||
The Hindu Kush The Smiley Face | |||||
19 | ★★ Back On Track
A gem. Before the gully leading to The Smiley Face is an orange wall with a flake line and a thin, diagonal right-leading crack. Bridge up and climb the diagonal crack. FA: Glenn Tempest & Michael Hampton, 1997 | 20m | |||
16 | Happy Birthday
Take the right-hand crack until it finishes. Straight up. FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 1997 | 33m | |||
17 | Laughter Line
Good holds, good gear, good rock. Start as for Happy Birthday Climb the left crack. Finish up headwall, topping out at a block. FA: Michael Hampton & Kym Sinclair, 1997 | 33m | |||
17 | Grin
More steep climbing on buckets. Start as for "Laughter Line". Step left to climb the water-streak to the flake. Up easily. FA: Michael Hampton & GlennTtempest, 2000 | 30m | |||
18 | Stressed Out Wimps
Start just right of the notch at the top of the Smiley Face Pull through the undercuts and climb to what looks like a loose block, but allows a wide step left to the base of a steep double crack-line. Follow the crack to the notch and the top. FA: Alan Hope, Gordon Talbett & Mark Poustie, 1992 | 32m | |||
12 | A Melon For Ecstasy
Left of the Smiley Face is a small grey wall. Climb the ramp/groove line near the right edge of the face. Take care with loose rock on top. FA: Alan Hope, Gordon Talbett & Mark Poustie, 1993 | 20m | |||
12 | Slobs And Coppers
Start 3 metres left of A Melon For Ecstasy below groove at top of wall. Up wall and into groove. Take care with loose rock on top. FA: Ian Newell, Andy Long & Gordon Talbett, 1993 | 20m | |||
9 | Persian Proverbs
Start 4 metres left of Slobs And Coppers. Up stepped groove and then the crack up the wall. Take care with loose rocks on top. FA: Gordon Talbett & Dave Gairns, 1993 | 22m | |||
9 | Koh-I-Noor
Behind the top of the Smiley Face is a grey tower. This is the left end of the upper cliff-line that runs left from the top of the descent gully. Climb the line on the left-hand face of the tower to a corner capped by a roof. Step left to the arete and then up the face. FA: Alan Hope, Gordon Talbett & Mark Poustie, 1993 | 27m | |||
11 | Musulman
Start just right of Koh-I-Noor and around the arete. Up the deep crack until it is feasible to pull left onto the arete and continue steeply to the top. FA: Dave Cairns & Gordon Talbett, 1993 | 40m | |||
The Hindu Kush Nuristan | |||||
18 | From Here To Eternity
Start: Start from a ledge below the cebtre of the face, 5 metres right of and obvious perched block and 10 metres right "The man Who Would Be King"
FA: David gairns & Gordon Talbett (alt), 1994 | 35m, 2 | |||
16 | The Man Who Would Be King
P1 (20m, -) Climb the diagonal finger crack and then up/left to belay just left of the fang. P2 (20m, 16) From the top of the fang pull up into the corner, then up the steep wall at the right end of the roof. FA: Mark Poustie, Alan Hope (alt) & Gordon Talbett | 40m | |||
The Hindu Kush Yogistan | |||||
6 | Lucky Last
Climb straight up grey rock past some bulges. FA: Gordon Talbett & James McIntosh, 1994 | 40m | |||
6 | Rum Doddle
Follow the prominent left-leaning crack/ramp until below the final roof. Step right and steeply up. FA: Gordon Talbett & Peter Whitfield, 1993 | 40m | |||
11 | Champagne For Medicinal Purposes
Start 4 metres right of the left arete. Easy at first the steep and exciting on great jugs. FA: Gordon Talbett & Dave Gairns, 1993 | 30m | |||
10 | Summer Lassitude
Start just right of the left arete. Follow the crack-line through the short, bottomless corner. FA: John Lamb, Gordon Talbett & Alan Hope, 1993 | 28m | |||
11 | Ground Glass Stew
Start just left of the left arete. Step off the block onto the smooth face. Pull onto the arete (just right of the left roof) and climb steeply up the arete. FA: John Lamb, Gordon Talbett & Alan Hope, 1993 | 30m | |||
Alex Creek Tiers Club Wall | |||||
14 | Mixed Couples
The crack, with some pure jamming for a few moves. FA: Michael Hampton, Chuck Stacey & Sharyn George, 1997 | 6m | |||
17 | Men Only
Up loose flakes right of "Mixed Couples" to stance. A reachy move brings buckets to hand. FA: Geoff Butcher, Chuck Stacey & Michael Hampton, 1997 | 6m | |||
Alex Creek Tiers Garbo Gulch | |||||
12 | Baked Beans
Take the ramp to the top. FA: Geoff Butcher, Chuck Stacey & Sharyn George, 1998 | 12m | |||
15 | Baked Beans Variant Finish
From the first ledge, take crack up wall. FA: Geoff Butcher, Chuck Stacey & Sharyn George, 1998 | 12m | |||
13 | I Vant To Be Halone
Climb the ragged flake above the start of the ramp. FA: Chuck Stacey & Sharyn George, 1997 | 8m | |||
19 | Hidaway Layaway
The first line in from the right-hand end of the wall is a little gem. Climb corner to left of overhang. Pull through then move right into line. FA: Chuck Stacey, Geoff Butcher & Sharyn George, 1998 | 12m | |||
Alex Creek Tiers Beesting Wall | |||||
18 | Beestings On A Boofhead
trad Enjoyable now that the bees have gone. Start at the easiest-looking, left-most diagonal (3 in from the right) Up to horizontal and traverse right to obvious bucket. Pull up, then step right, up again then right to finish up juggy flake. FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2000 | 18m | |||
13 | In Bed With Brian Wilson
Start on arete 8 metres right of Beestings On A Boofhead Climb wall to large ledge and continue up headwall. FA: Geoff Butcher & Samantha Raffay, 1999 | 30m | |||
Alex Creek Tiers Alex Axe Wall | |||||
21 | Each To Their Own
The first line 2 metres in from the right-hand end of the wall. 'Flake' to flat top, then hard moves up faint line to big groove. FA: Chuck Stacey & Geoff Butcher, 1998 | 9m | |||
17 | Tears For Fears
Climb the flake and wall a few metres right of the chimney to cracks. Up to and over overlap. FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael hampton, 1997 | 8m | |||
16 | Frigging In The Rain
Small crack up arete just left of chimney. FA: Chuck Stacey & Geoff Butcher, 2000 | 10m | |||
20 | Careful With That Axe Alex
Ten metres left of "Frigging In The Rain" is a crack-line with an "axe blade". Crack to blade, use this to exit. FA: Geoff Butcher, Chuck Stacey & Sharyn George, 1998 | 10m | |||
Alex Creek Tiers Alex Main Wall | |||||
15 R | Don't Bugger The Bush
The right-leading flake/corner line has its moments and is escapable near the top. Protection on the crux is poor. FA: Michael hampton & Geoff Butcher, 1997 | 22m | |||
Swamp Wall | |||||
14 | I Can See For Miles And Miles
A bit scrappy. Walk-off A bit scrappy. The set of diagonals to the right of the wide line (On A Wing And A Prayer) on the south face. Not to be confused with the unclimbed thin crack just right of the wide line! FA: Hugh Foxcroft & Miles Martin, 1983 | 55m | |||
16 | ★ On A Wing And A Prayer
...and a six-inch tube. Start: Start below the wide line in the centre of the south face.
FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1983 | 55m, 2 | |||
12 | Belching Frogs
The arete on the left edge of the south face. Follow a ramp leading right for 5 or 6 metres then traverse left to gain the arete and follow it. FA: Alan Hope & Kieran Loughran, 1985 | 30m | |||
18 | The Beardstroker's Apprentice
"...fetch the left-handed jaffle iron, lad, and I'll tell you a story..." Start: Between the south face and the big corner is a scrappy black line that becomes a chimney-gully just left of an orange overhang. Climb just right of this (?scrappy black line) to overhang then traverse right until under cracks in headwall. Pull through, step right, then diagonally leftwards following vague juggy flake. FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 1997 | 30m | |||
11 | Swamp Pinnacle
There is a separate pinnacle in front of the crag below the big corner. Mike Law has soloed up the north arete and down the north-east face. Both ways are grade 11. | ||||
17 | Swamp Stomp
Pleasant wall climbing based on a series of flakes and cracks on the left side of the right wall of The GA Or FM Corner. Start a few metres right of The GA Or FM Corner. Boulder up to the first flake and a good pocket/jug which takes a #2.0 cam. Follow flakes and cracks to left end of overlap. Up to flake, then shallow left-facing corner. FA: Michael hampton & Kym Sinclair, 1997 | 30m | |||
11 | ★ The G.A. Or F.M. Corner
If you can't find this corner give the game away. The major corner. FA: Keith Egerton, Peter Watling & Peter Cunningham, 1978 | 35m | |||
19 | Treacherous Forearms
The steep left wall of the big corner offers sustained climbing with some brittle rock. FA: Michael hampton & Geoff Butcher, 1997 | 30m | |||
14 | Council Approval Denied
If this was a building, it would be condemned. Start: Start 5 metres right of "The Kubara" and just left of an arete and some pines.
FA: Alan Hope, Mark Poustie (alt) & Gordon talbett, 1993 | 52m, 2 | |||
16 | The Kubara
Start: Start on the front of the buttress left of the grotty gully where a steep groove leads to the left end of some overhangs and a roof.
FA: Peter Cunningham, Peter Watling & Keith Egerton, 1978 | 70m, 2 | |||
11 | Fungus The Bogman
Start 10 - 15 metres left of "The Kubara" below a small roof at 12 metres.
FA: Mark Poustie, Gordon talbett (alt) & Alan Hope, 1993 | 65m, 2 | |||
14 | HMS
You've got buckley's of following this route description, and how it relates to the other worthless routes is anyone's guess. Start: Start 10 metres left of "The Kubara"
FA: Mike Law (solo), 1979 | 90m, 3 | |||
14 | Peregrine
Further around left, on the north face, is a left-leaning diagonal roof-line with an overhang low down. Start a few metres left of the line, by a native pine. Go straight up the yellow wall to a small ledge, swing around the weakness in the overhang and continue up the main line. FA: Peter Watling & Ceri Law, 1979 | 25m | |||
6 | Lupin
Left of Peregrine is a gully which is the normal descent route. On the east side of the gully is a cliff with a roof towards its left side. Two lines lead up to the roof. This is the right-hand line, a flake, to the roof. Move right and up to a bushy ledge. Chimney to top. FA: Keith Egerton, 1978 | 20m | |||
7 | Picaninny
Climb the left line to the roof and exit left. FA: Peter Watling & Peter Cunningham, 1978 | 10m | |||
15 | ★ Swamp Fox
One of the better climbs hereabouts, although that's not saying much. Start: Start 20 metres left of "Picanniny" at diagonal cracks on a steep wall. Climb a short vertical crack 3 metres left of the foot of the diagonals to the first diagonal crack. Follow this diagonal until steep face-climbing leads up right to the base of the second diagonal crack. Finish steeply up this crack. FA: Peter Watling & Ceri Law, 1979 | 28m | |||
17 | Swamp Fox Variant
Follow "Swamp Fox"'s first diagonal all the way until it finishes. Plonk some gear in a good horizontal and go straight up the black streak to exit as for "Swamp Fox". FA: Geoff Butcher, Kym Sinclair, Michael Hampton & Helen Barbin, 2000 | 28m | |||
Kindergarten Wall | |||||
12 | Blowing Gum
Twin cracks at left end of wall. FA: Greg Aimer & Chrissy Freestone, 1996 | 14m | |||
17 | Tattle Tales
Up line 1.5 metres right of "Blowing Gum" to overlap and through FA: Greg Aimer & Chrissy Freestone, 1996 | 14m | |||
18 | Thomas the Tank Engine
Through overlap, up line and bulge. Start: Start 3 metres right of "Tattle Tales" FA: Greg Aimer & Chrissy Freestone, 1996 | 10m | |||
Big Wall | |||||
14 | Dug Scott
Climb the corner at the left end of the cliff, go left under the roof and finish steeply. FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Sue Matthews, 1983 | 25m | |||
13 | Upward Propulsion
There aren't enough chances to practise this technique. The body-crack down right of Dug Scott. FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Sue Matthews, 1983 | 40m | |||
14 | Goody Two-Shoes
The line just right of "Upward Propulsion" with a very loose undercut start. FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Sue Matthews, 1983 | 40m | |||
Stumpytail Rock | |||||
19 | A Strain On The Marriage
Wide crack where nuts are supposed to be more use than cams. Take large hexes and either 4.5 tube or equivalent Bigbro. The yellow crack in the west face is quite steep and has an exciting finish. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1987 | 20m | |||
Water Race Wall | |||||
16 | Beachball
The seam on the left. FA: Glenn Tempest (solo), 1993 | 11m | |||
18 | Wet Behind The Ears
The second line from the left. FA: Michael Hampton, 1993 | 14m |