★★ Mug's Alley 14

Sustained and interesting climbing. If you have done Mixed Climb and are looking for something a bit harder to do on Rosea this well protected outing is recommended. The original top pitch is dirty and unpleasant, the finish as described is far better. Even better abseil off at the top of P2 from the handy double bolt anchor. Start about 13 metres right of Solitude. Initialled MA.

1. 25m (14) Up to the RH of two weaknesses. Climb this and its R wall then L to the deep chimney groove. Up this steeply, then short wall to ledge.

2. 26m (14) Continue up the groove, towards the top move slightly R to a ledge about 8 metres below the big overhang. Straight up short crack [or more easily up ramp to R] to the large ledge below the overhang. [Abseil bolts at top of ramp, 50m to ground].

3. 29m (Walk) Walk left to the very end of the ledge and a steep jam crack. (For the original finish walk L past a shallow L facing corner, to a second dirty L facing corner about 16m before the end of the ledge. Original P4 description. "Pull up over the starting overhang and move up and diagonally right until the groove crack is reached. Up this then carry on up the wall to the left of a scrubby gully until holds lead to the corner to the right. Easily on for 6m and belay. Scramble off" Looks awful)

4. 33m (14) Up the jam crack for 8m, traverse 3m R on narrow ledge and up good crack (BD 4 and 5 useful) to R leading ramp, up this and easy ground above.

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

• Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

• Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

• Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

• Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

• Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

• Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

• Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

• Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

• Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

• Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

• Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education