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Routes in Petite Fleur Face

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Showing all 13 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
14 Petite Fleur

Looks elegant but the corner is hideously awkward and difficult to protect. Maybe medium-large hexes would help.

Start: Start at the far left side of the 'Petite Fleur' face beneath the gloomy corner.

FA: Michael Stone, Gary Kerkin & Ian Speedie, 1965

Trad 10m
17 The Walltower Castle (Direct Start)

A boulder problem that might ease when the R-hand crack is dry.

Start: Start beneath the twin cracks of Watchtower Castle's first pitch.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth., 1993

Trad 20m
13 The Walltower Castle (lst Pitch)

A tricky start leads to enjoyable climbing.

Start: Start just R of the twin cracks, 15m R of 'Petite Fleur'.

Trad 20m
20 La Balance

Puts the "F" back into 'Grampians' slabs. Take #1½, #3½ cams.

Start: Start below incipient flake 4m R of 'Petite Fleur'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ed Neve & Norm Booth, 1993

Trad 20m
19 Baby Doll

Nice climbing. Take large cams. Short people may need cams to protect the start. The finishes of 'Baby Doll' and 'La Balance' have been swapped to give more consistent routes (i.e. they cross each other about three quarters of the way up).

Start: Start a few m L of 'The Walltower Castle' and 4m R of 'La Balance'.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Malcolm Matheson, 1991

Trad 20m
19 Blank Frank

Don't take it too seriously. Most often done these days as the first pitch to Navigator.

Start: Start as for Walltower Castle.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Malcolm Matheson, 1991

Trad 20m
22 Digital Technique

Rising left leading thin face starting off boulder in middle of wall, right of small gum tree. Stick clip first bolt. 2 bolt lower off

FFA: Steve & Amanda Holloway, 2013

Sport 10m, 4
23 All Mod Cons

start about 4m left of The Great Foaming Espresso Machine/ Shining Path. Stick clip the first bolt. Up past this and two more to a fixed anchor.

FA: Kevin Lindorff

Sport 12m, 3
19 The Great Foaming Expresso Machine

Start: Start below and R of the corner, about 8m right of 'Blank Frank'. A devious approach leads to the attractive shallow corner halfway up toward the right side of the wall. Recently retro-bolted with permission of FA. 2-U belay on terrace.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 1993

Sport 10m, 3
22 Bird In The Hand

Variant finish to HTTM. Traverse left on pockets under third BR finishing up flake. Please respect the hanging oversized bonsai!

FA: Paul Geil, 2014

Sport 10m, 3
21 Hot Tub Time Machine

Just right of TGFEM. Up pocketed slab passing 3 FH and finishing up flake on right. Mantle to DB lower off. Please respect the oversized bonsai!

FA: Paul Geil, Steve Holloway & Bernard Wrangle, 2014

Sport 10m, 3
22 Spillway (Direct Start)

Bouldery.

Start: Start up the ramp R of 'The Great Foaming Expresso Machine', directly below the groove of 'Spillway' (R of a large bush overhanging the top of this wall).

FA: Kieran Loughran & Bert Levy, 1990

Trad 10m
19 Spillway-Sluice-Sweet Dreams
Trad 110m

Showing all 13 routes.

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