Nodes in Bittangabee (North side of bay)

Short, convenient, and mostly easy trad climbing in an amazing location with spectacular campground, beaches, and forest. A good spot to set up topropes for beginners.

Bouldering area above Beez Neez with flat landings that stays dry when high seas make the lower cliff wet or dangerous to access. Care needed as this is a ledge above the main climbing area.

Open project. Sit start from jugs above the puddle, reaching for the slopers above. Hard not to touch the ground.

Open project. Sit start at the corner/arete 1m right of previous route.

Sit start at the corner crack 3m R of previous. Start with hand in the crack and pull for ledge.

Sit start 2m R of corner at the crack. Start with hand in crack and pull up through huecos. Beware of fall potential off the ledge.

Sit start 3m R of previous. Start with hands on jug and up passed the hueco. Beware of fall potential off the ledge.

Open project. Start just R of previous. Sit start at jug under big undercling.

Open project. Sit start 1.5m R of previous. Hands on jugs and crack up.

Open project. Easy when standing start, I just couldn't get the sit start. Start at the crack at the left end of the ledge in the corner.

Sit start under the diagonal crack. Start is 2m R of the arete R of the corner with the ledge R of the previous route.

Sit start 2m R of previous. Start at the jug and move up to the left. V0- if you use the block for feet. Doing it without using the block would be harder.

Standing start between the corner and chimney R of the previous route.

Sit start under the hanging arete R of the previous route.

(The 1st climb on south end of platform) Tackle roof on jugs, left of obvious corner. Then straight up the easiest line to left side of orange rock bay and top. (Step right to a variant finish, grade 18).

Start up corner, break through roof on the left, finish up crack.

Climb corner and R face to roof. Plug the roof with cams on R allowing fear and trepidation to mount. Gather your gusto and with an air of expectancy, launch out to huge horizontal and up face to ledge with ever-decreasing jugs and thinning pro. Up to top.

First crack at left hand end, just right of cavey section. Bouldery start leads to enjoyable climbing.

Crack left of Flight 11.

Straight up obvious slopey crack left of MOL (Difficult to protect on lead) follow crack line to block at top, over block to top.

Unprotected low down without side runners. An eliminate line, squeezed in and avoiding everything in the cracks to left and right. Straight up bouldery moves past the small undercling.

Up the most obvious crack line on the far right of wall.

Last crack before right corner. Bridge corner, pull onto wall, and follow crack to top. A deliciously pumpy excursion.

R of Sunday Outing, up chimney to ledge and follow seam to top.

Up onto the block and up the flake. Frequently used as a down climb to access the platform.

Undercut start a few metres left of AQPFR. Crank hard and twist lock to small mantle edge. Desperate moves to crimpy edges on back wall. Arrange cams under rooflet flake, undercling and find the hidden flake up high. Cruise to the top.

Climb up the two large cracks on jugs, a single crack leads to the top. Good wires for pro.

1 metre right of AQPFR. Up flake and straight up wall.

Same start as EBs Make it EZ. Up flake and into corner.

The "Light to light" walking trail of Ben Boyd National Park runs along the top of the cliff line. Park entry fees are $8 per vehicle per day. During heavy seas or king tides, access to the climbs is likely to be impossible.

Up edge of the thin central flake. Use 1½ and 2 cams in quartz intrusion at roof for pro. Traverse left to the arête where a hidden thread allows a good rest. Layback up the arête, gear in slots.

Start as TTL. Crank through roof and up slopes to pocket. A jugular popping mantle leads to a good rest. Run it out to top.

Start up diagonal flake, step right around corner, and up crack. (Variant start for Coffin Slot).

Start up wide slot, and continue up crack.

Sketchy lead. No protection for 6m. Delicate, balancy, and plays with your head. Requires a good spotter. Finish up through fun overlaps.

The excellent dark and shady corner that regularly sees climbers unfamiliar with the art of bridging grovelling in the crack.

Variant of Boys Light Up. Up gymnastic start then straight up L arete only.

Has it all, gymnastic start leads to a delicate face capped with an overhanging finish. All in a short action packed 9 m.

Up the small undercut crack just around arete, approx 2m to the R of Boys Light Up.

3 m right of NNA at obvious flakes. A tricky start then straight up flakes, great gear, great fun, very rough treatment for the uninitiated.

Squeezed in 1m R of YGDB.

The left of the two twin cracks. Delightful hand jams.

The right of the twin cracks.

Face left of major corner LoF.

Major corner on R end of the wall.

Start easily up the diagonal crack behind the flake, onto ledge then up purple wall straight above (crux) protect with large cam.

Up the line of shallow pods/pockets passing a two finger pocket en route – to the left of Johnny Shoot the Messenger Boy

Step across the water onto the arête, head on up, cams in horizontals. Arrange gear under small roof and pull through to glory. Alternate starts possible.

Start at crack line at water's edge, and finish up left facing corner on R.

L of WT. Delightful climbing requiring a tad of commitment. Aim for the dinner plate then finish up L facing corner and overlap.

Classic of the crag. The overhanging nature of this climb will leave a leader digging deep as you go for the top. Start on left and step onto wall over perpetual puddle, traverse right into line and follow face and flakes up to large horizontal. Move R to double threads and blast for the top.

The corner crack finishing straight up. Reach the start by funky traverse in from the right end of puddle. Lose a star if you traverse in from the left.

First climb on Buddha Wall (small sloping wall fronted by perpetual puddle). Step onto wall at Buddha's face (clay stone pocket, whose features have now washed away). Trend left to top without using the major leftmost flake.

Let Buddha show you the way to enlightenment. From the face of Buddha, straight up.

Half metre right of TMW. Tread the path with care, euphoria awaits you at the top.

Start as TRP, immediately step 1m R and delicately slab your way to nirvana, keeping out of the R crack for full value. Shy on pro.

Climb the prominent crack to the top. Can be turned into an epic if you mix up your left and right.

Absorbing climbing with lovely moves and a surprise finish. Straight up faint crack to ledge.

Committed approach, up faint crack then step right and follow weakness.

The wall a couple of metres left of Sedition

Step across the water onto the face and place gear as you see fit (Don’t comment on the government). Trend left (of the political landscape) over the bulging (capitalists pigs) and place cams in the sickle shaped crack. Undermine the status quo by using underhanded techniques in the crack, then head straight up the middle of the road on good crimpers. Easier than it looks, easier said than done.

2m R of Sedition. Delicately bridge through thought provoking corner up to steep top wall.

Flake line just R of YC.

Face and book corner just R of Yosemite Corner. (RPs Optional).

Boulder moves up the steep arete, 2m R of Yosemite Corner.

First climb on Brave New Wall. Flake system at left side of wall. Good value for a short route.

Main central crack up to pocket and finish.

1m R of ED. R leaning flakes to trick top out, steeper than it looks.

1m R of D, 1m L of SP. Technical, steep, a great climb. Can be done as a solo. Shy on gear, could place a good cam up high after the difficulties. Bring a crash mat!

Up undercut flake corner to ledge then continue to top through two roofs.

Face 1.5m R of SP. Pumpy face climbing to ledge, continue through double overhangs with a tricky finish.

Little L facing corner in centre of slab. Bouldery start then up delicate corner to thought provoking finish. Shy on pro.

1/2 m R of NMB. Boulder start to jugs and finish up left facing scoop to ledge and then up top wall on R. Very little pro.

2m R of NMB up to L undercling and up.

Delicate start to underclings and up.

Face and using L arete, 1m L of P.

Shallow corner (boulder pictured has since been swept away) 1m L of HH.

2m L of BN. Straight up past major pocket, finding excellent slots on the way.

South around the corner from Beer Battered Rock is an obvious crack 2m from the arête. A short climb with tricky moves at 4m. Has a nice top out and good protection.

Up arete at start of PC. Fun arete with sensational no hands rest for those with long femurs.

Start at the white splattered rock a few metres right of '6 beers before midnight' and traverse left for about 17m. Follow the lowest dyke for the first half, under-cling through the small overlap on the corner (crux), and stay on low holds well below the dyke for the second section, finishing at the incut corner.

A few moves of interest just 1m R of AoR. Pulled out the old spoogie boreal aces for this one.

1m R of RM, another Bittangabee delight. Up the jugs.

Mals description to go here, problem is he had 6 Beers before Midnight and can’t remember anything. Jug Haul/Crimp/Slap Dynamically/Layback/Mantle/Smear/Scum up the easy/tricky/difficult start, follow the obvious/not so obvious line/seam/slab/crack/flake of jugs/crimps/slopers/heucos to the crux. Finish as start.

Onto the boulder, step left onto the face and head up the left side. Step up left onto the ledge and finish up the obvious corner.

Flake at left end. Up steep flake, finishing up slab.

Start 3m right of the arête, head to right up crack a few metres, trend left slinging lumpy jug. Head left to arête using 1 and 1½ cams for protection. Continue up arête.

Start as for MND. Head straight up from lumpy jug to hidden heuco. Move up and right along thin break then up small pockets to slopey mantle top out. Serious.

Continues up and right along the diagonal features after Orange Ruffy heads straight up.

2m R of Orange Ruffy. Up to letterbox slot, then line of least resistance to top, finishing left of major capstone.

Unbeknownst to most people, God had a seaside holiday before heading off to create Mt Arapiles. This climb is a testament to his creative abilities. The gem of Bittangabee, steep, strenuous, and sensational. 1m R of P3. Up right-leaning diagonal, straight up to finish on splitter crack on capstones.

Prominent blank arete just R of major crack. (no pro).

1m R of OB, up corner weakness to the top. No pro.

Start below the small, right-facing flake. Up this, pass flared horizontal (small cam), and up to ledge. Couple of runners in the back, then make the big step up and left (unprotected) and cruise to finish.

Major crack. Jump puddle to start up crack/ramp, to ledge and then up through easiest route to finish.

Blank looking face just R of JS. Delicate moves to thought provoking finish.

Start 1m R of BTSS at right-leaning flakes. Energetic face climbing up to big ledge. Set a belay and look for whales blowing (also great ledge for a bivvy if you want to stay the night). Pitch 2, straight up big pockets to top. The original belay boulder has been swept away, so belayer may require waders.

Absorbing face climbing on right leaning flakes, 1m R of TSB.

Very bouldery start – landing is good. Up to thin horizontal slot, place 0.5 cam after you reach the next holds. Thin moves follow on equally thin gear, bloody brilliant.

Starting as for Zymurgy, climb the direct thinner line via slots and crimps to the right of the previous line and staying right of the prominent pale disc. Finish by topping out the boulder problem off the shelf and directly above.