Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Stables | |||||
14 | Chicken Stuffing
Straight up featured wall, 3RB's, walk off Start: In access gully. FA: rod wills, 2007 | 8m | |||
26 | ★★ Jazz Maverick
The steep proud line, punchy climbing through nice rock, starting in the slot under the roof from the ground, Do not use rock cairn, begins by climbing the balancy short slab and out first rooflet. FA: Patrick Reynolds, 2007 | 10m | |||
26 | ★★ Ethos Down Pour
Start as for Jazz Maverick and throw out right to join Approaching Showers an awesome link up. FA: Patrick Reynolds Set: Patrick Reynolds | ||||
Project 1 - Pat
The line of rings 3m right of 'Jazz Maverick' | 10m | ||||
27 | ★★★ Approaching Showers
Moving up the obvious start into the blocky flake feature, with a big move up left to continue following the leftward rising rail joining the finish of Project 1 through the runnel feature, no lower offs, top out and walk off boulder to finish for full value and walk back down to belay area or back clean from last ring. Caution if topping out, easy climbing but runout. Take care when cleaning. FA: Patrick Reynolds | ||||
26 | ★★ Taken
Start 2m left of 'Mufasta'. Climb up into some burley crimps through to some easier climbing to finish on two lower offs. Maint: Tim Mayer FA: Jarred Jordan, 2021 | 10m | |||
22 | ★★ Thoroughbred
Start up Mufasta for two bolts, and then traverse left finishing up 'Project 2' FFA: Timothy Mayer, 18 Jul 2021 | 11m, 5 | |||
19 | ★★ Mufasta
Up to sharp arête tending left at top. 3 U's to lower offs. FA: Andrew Morrison & Stephen Hawkshaw, 2002 | 10m | |||
20 | ★ Bluntman
A balancy start to a pumpy finish up the left feature. 3 U's to lower offs. FA: Stephen Hawkshaw | 8m | |||
19 | ★★ Chronic
Straight up the overhanging arête. 1FH, 2U's to lower offs. FA: Hawkshaw | 10m | |||
16 | Carrots Are Vegetables
Obvious corner crack left side of wall, enjoyable jamming, top out to right to avoid dirty exit FA: Greg Hislop & Kylie Barrett | 8m | |||
15 | ★ The Player of Games
Tending left up juggy face, 3 Rbs to lower offs. Start: 4m right of CAV. FA: rod wills, 2007 | 9m | |||
14 | ★ Clipz
Up short orange face to jugs, 3Rbs to lower offs. Start: Shared start to TPOG, tending right at first bolt FA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2007 | 10m | |||
18 | ★ Suspect Zero
Up slab onto orange face topping out over the buldge. 3 RB's to lower offs. FA: Rod Wills, 2005 | 11m | |||
14 | ★ Yoink
A good climb up the prominent flake in middle of wall. 3 U's to lower offs. FA: Andrew Morrison | 10m | |||
20 | ★ Yerba
The direct start to 'Yoink'. Hard fun moves up to meet 'Yoink' at second bolt. FA: Stephen Hawkshaw | 10m | |||
18 | ★ Bunsen Honeydew
Easy moves on pockets leads to a big move past bolt to break. Finish up wall. 2U's to lower offs. FA: Stephen Hawkshaw & Andrew Morrison, 2002 | 10m | |||
23 | ★ Blabbering Fool
Start 1m R of Bunsen Honeydew. Up nice arête. A little contrived, so try and avoid BH and the tree, otherwise take off 4 grades FA: Tim Mayer, 8 Jul 2017 | 10m, 3 | |||
M1 | Wretched Carrot Ladder
An unspeakably wretched enterprise consisting of what look like bashed in non-glued stainless carrots 0.5m apart a bit right of 'Bunsen Honeydew'. Practice? Madness? Boredom? To quote the late John Ewbank: "urinate at the base of it and continue". | 8m, 10 | |||
19 | ★ Moments Like These
Mantel above the first bolt then up the crack to lower offs. Set: Brendon Flanagan, 20 Feb 2020 FFA: Chanté Fisk & Brendon Flanagan, 6 Dec 2020 | 2 | |||
18 | ★ Dissociative Fugue
Step up onto boulder in middle of wall and follow line of rings to the top. 3 RBs to lower offs. FA: Mark Page, 2005 | 10m | |||
24 | ★ Psychopath
Start 3m R of DF at hard bouldery moves. Nice jump move, then traverse up and L passing 3 RBs. FA: Tim Mayer, 24 Jun 2017 | 10m, 3 | |||
25 | ★★ A Day at the Beach
As for Psychopath for the first 2 RBs, then break out R passing another on some nice bouldery moves. FFA: Tim Mayer, 11 May 2019 | 10m, 3 | |||
24 | ★★ Constant State of Confusion
Thin crimpy slabby goodness. Head up slab to thin move above scoop. 2 UB's to lower offs. FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003 | 8m | |||
21 | Unknown left
3 metres right of CSOC. Up over bulge to slab. 3 Rings to lower offs. FA: Unknown, 2000 | 9m | |||
21 | ★ Unknown right
Up over bulge following arete to finish on shared lower offs. 3 Rings to lower offs. FA: Unknown, 2000 | 9m | |||
21 | ★ So Far So Good
Straight up pockets tending left at final bolt and thin move. 4 FH's to lower offs. FA: Stephen Hawkshaw | 10m | |||
17 | ★ 40 lashes
2m rt of SFSG Start: Follow pockets behind tree, 3RB's to lower offs. FA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2007 | 8m | |||
17 | ★ Mohammeds teddy Bear
2m rt of 40 Lashes Start: Straight up juggy face tending left at the top, 3Rb's to lower offs. FA: Rod wills, 2007 | 8m | |||
21 | ★ Toetality
Up and out through roof of cave, clipping second ring before heading to lip to avoid grounder. 4 RB's & U's to lower offs. FA: Andrew Morrison & Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003 | 8m | |||
Otherland | |||||
3 | What the Hell is a Centograph
Access route. FA: Josh Caple (Solo), 2004 | 6m | |||
20 | ★ Home-made Gonad Gulliotine
Following the arete on the right side of the cave, at the left side of the crag. 3 RB's to lower offs. FA: J.Caple | 12m, 3 | |||
18 | ★ Enough is Not Enough
2m right of HMGG. Start in cave, up and over, 2 RB's to shared lower offs with HMGG. FA: Rod Wills, 2005 | 10m, 2 | |||
19 | ★ It's All Chips And Gravy
2m right of EINE. Straight up over bulge to slab. 3 RB's to lower offs. FA: Rod Wills, 2005 | 10m, 3 | |||
19 | Shoulder Barge
2m right of IAC&G.Slap ya way to break and over bulge. 3 RB's to lower offs. FA: Rod Wills, 2006 | 10m, 3 | |||
20 | ★ Shannons scooter sortie
5m right of SB. Hard start on to slab.3 RB's to lower offs. FA: Vanessa Wills, 2006 | 10m | |||
17 | The Hand That Feeds
2m right of SSS. Hard start to easy finish. 3 RB's to lower offs. FA: Rod Wills, 2005 | 10m | |||
15 | ★ Sith Lord
3m right of THTF. Over bulge up orange wall past obvious scoop. 3 BR's to lower offs. FA: rod wills, 2005 | 10m | |||
19 | ★ Cop That Kev
2m right of SL. Up middle of wall following orange streak. 3RB's to lower offs. FA: rod wills, 2005 | 9m | |||
21 | ★ I dont like Mondays
3m right of CTK. Straight up thin face. 2 RB's to lower offs. FA: Jason Lammers, 2006 | 9m | |||
17 | ★ Continuum Transfunctioner
An obvious face climb with one big/ish move, tends left to 2nd bolt. 2 RB's to lower offs. FA: Josh Caple, 2004 | 8m | |||
18 | ★ Transfunctioner Straightonem
Same start as CT, following line of bolts right after first RB, finishes at BMTS lower off. 3 RB's to lower offs. FA: rod wills, 2005 | 9m | |||
20 | ★ Blood Marks The Spot
2m right of TS. Up thin face to juggy bulge. 3RB's to lower offs. FA: Mark Page, 2005 | 10m | |||
20 | C U Next Tuesday
Same start as BMTS, visionary silliness, up to 1st bolt on BMTS, tend left past second bolts on both CT & TS finishing at anchors on CUNT. 4 RB's to lower offs. FA: Jason Lammers, 2005 | 12m | |||
19 | ★ Interstellar Jumpsuit
3m right of BMTS. Up over bulge to slab moving right to lower offs. 3 RB's to lower offs. FA: J.Caple, 2005 | 12m | |||
14 | Black Hmong Corn Cobs
Trad crack on the right side of the crag. FA: Josh Caple, 2004 | 8m | |||
Trackside boulders | |||||
VB+ | Problem 1
Step up and mantle over short wall FFA: Rod wills, 20 Jun 2019 | 3m | |||
VB+ | Problem 2
Up face left of scoop. FFA: rod, 20 Jul 2019 | 4m | |||
VB+ | Problem 3
Up and exiting left into scoop FFA: rod, 20 Jul 2019 | 4m | |||
V0 | Problem 4
up and exiting right into scoop FFA: rod, 20 Jul 2019 | 4m | |||
V2 | The More Stables
Sit start and climb up left scoop. | 4m | |||
V3 | The Unstables
Sit start and climb out right to mantle scoop. Watch for chossy feet. | ||||
Project 2
Straight up over rounded nose. (Landing bit shitty good to have a spotter) | 4m | ||||
V1 | Baby Back
From the obvious rib opposite The Unstables, up to lip and mantle over. | ||||
V2/3 | ★ Bad Routesetting
Sit start with hands on obvious rail, reaching to left horn up high and mantle over. Reachy. | 2m | |||
Project 3
Up left side of boulder reaching into pocket around corner | 5m | ||||
V1 | Wagyu Emergency
Up out right side of low cave mantling into slab and up. | 5m | |||
Project 5
Left out of cave to mantle and up | 5m | ||||
Project 6
Up right side of cave to pocket on face and mantle | 5m | ||||
Problem 11
Up face using pocket at head height and mantle. | 5m | ||||
VB+ | Problem 12
Short slab to mantle FFA: rod, 20 Jul 2019 | 3m | |||
V1 | Problem 13
Start and traverse lip of boulder until split, topping out at crack FFA: Ian reynolds | 4m | |||
V0 | Problem 14
Laybacking left side of crack FFA: rod, 23 Jul 2019 | 4m | |||
V1 | Problem 15
Laybacking right side of crack and over FFA: Ian reynolds, 28 Jul 2019 | 4m | |||
Project 7
Sit start up left rail and over sloopy mantle | 3m | ||||
V1 | Problem 16
Mantle and over on thin rail to top out jug. FFA: Kevin Van tilburg, 28 Jul 2019 | 4m | |||
The Sentinels | |||||
V3 | ★★ Sloper Groper
| ||||
V2 | Commander Keen vs. The Giant Leech
| ||||
V4 | ★★ KKK (Keen Kan't Krimp)
| ||||
V1 | Short & Sour
| ||||
Upper Trackside Boulders | |||||
VB- | ★ False Summit
Easy up left side, (was 1/2 metre higher until be flake tore off) | 2m | |||
V0- | ★ 2.58 to Penno
Up middle via jugs. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Toughen up Princess
Start left side on jug following rounded edge to highest point and mantle onto slab and over (V0 if you use opposite boulder) | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Makin Mantles
Grab lip and mantle over FA: Nov 2019 | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Up Up and Away
Step onto face and up over rounded mantle FA: Nov 2019 | 3m | |||
VB- | ★ Slabish
Up slab | 3m | |||
VB | ★ Small Mans Everest
Mantle middle of boulder | 2m | |||
V0- | ★ Pebble Wrestle
Mantle up right side of boulder | 2m | |||
Open Project HardBoi
Stand start left using pinch and pockety sidepull make way directly upwards using crimps to slopey topout. Feels quite hard maybe v6-v7 | |||||
V4 | ★ Black barker
Up the first seam. FA: 4 Aug 2019 | 5m | |||
V3 | ★ Moll
Up the second seam FA: 4 Aug 2019 | 6m | |||
V1 | Meggs the Yipper
Up orange face left side of wall, feet in diagonal but hands on the crispy orange wall FA: 4 Aug 2019 | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ A Day at the Museum
Up jugs and overlap right side of face FA: 4 Aug 2019 | 3m | |||
V0- | ★ Problem 1
Mantle up short free standing boulder FFA: rod, 28 Jul 2019 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Hand jamming
Sit start at undercut between 2 boulders, with hands in crack and feet in pocket on left boulder. Mantle onto left boulder | 2m | |||
V1 | ★★ Laybacking
As for problem 2, but with sit start requiring lay backs, toe hooks and finger locks. Left boulder off | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Problem 2
Up left side topping out FFA: Ian reynolds, 28 Jul 2019 | 4m | |||
V0- | ★ Problem 3
Up right side of face and crack FFA: rod, 28 Jul 2019 | 4m | |||
V0- | ★ Constant Cheerfulness
Start in crack then up on the right. | 4m | |||
V0 | Problem 4
Up face between cracks FFA: kevin van tilburg, 28 Jul 2019 | 4m | |||
V1 | Vingt-et-un
Left crack and seam FA: Graham Dowden, 1 Jan 2020 | 5m | |||
V2 | ★★ 1-1-20
Fine highball wall. FA: Graham Dowden, 1 Jan 2020 | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ Send No Evil
Low start on slots and finesse directly up to pocket and up. FA: Meedu Samaraweera, 18 Nov 2020 | 4m | |||
VB | A Craic
Easy slanting crack - mind the loose capstone. FA: Graham Dowden, 1 Jan 2020 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Scrunchy
Start uphill arete on overhung side of boulder ( NW) rising traverse right to awkward mantl | 2m | |||
V0- | ★ Problem 5
Sit start up left side arete, lower side of free standing boulder FFA: Ian reynolds, 28 Jul 2019 | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Problem 6
Start low up right side arete, lower side of free standing boulder FFA: Ian reynolds, 28 Jul 2019 | 4m | |||
V2 | Ness V2
Straight face staying off left side corner FA: 4 Aug 2019 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Problem 7
Start on crimps, left to pocket and over FFA: rod, 28 Jul 2019 | 4m | |||
V0- | ★ Problem 8
Up arete on high side of free standing boulder. V0 if you do sit start. FFA: Ian reynolds, 28 Jul 2019 | 4m |