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Description

A long wall about 20 meters wide with bad quality sandstone resulting in many of the holds breaking off. Don't let this deter you though, it's still good enough to climb on. Mixture of older carrot bolts and some newer ring bolts. In some of the pictures below, a green circle means "possible hand/foothold" and a red circle means "bolt" or "lower off".

The fixed protection at this crag was inspected by Brendon Flanagan 05/03/2014. Best to consider NOT climbing on these bolts. Several bolts recesses still highly visible and poor glue job.

Here is a link to a 3D Sketchup file of the wall, free download and improve. https://www.box.com/s/2qrnpzb1qijhl7vp0by2

Approach

Park around the corner or catch the 433 bus from Central. The bus stop is on the same block. be prepared for some kids to come out from the PCYC and ask you what you're doing, is it hard and are you crazy!

Routes

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Grade Route
1

Do Not Climb, the two bolts at the top have been flattened so there is nowhere to lower off.

2
V4 Manufactured Disaster Boulder 5m, 1

Start out under the overhang and go out to the left then right.

FFA: Chris W, 2013

FA: Chris W, 2013

3
25 The Twelfth Man Sport 7m, 3

Starts to the right of "Slippery When Wet" on two small bad crimps, cross left to a two finger pocket then a mono and you're at the first bolt. Continue on up from here.

4
27 High in the City Sport 7m, 3

There is a chain to lower off at, but it is old and rusted, also looks like a dynabolt. not to be trusted as I was able to pull a lower off chain out of the wall on the climb right next to it, looks to be the same type too, dyna bolt and chain.

5

Starts out with a one finger pocket

6

The Carrot Bolts are all rusted and the ring bolts are half broken, Do Not Climb! Even with Trad, but then again if your leading, you should be able to work that out anyway.

7
20 Gumby Sport 7m, 3

Start out with large pocket on the right and crimp on the left, reach up for another pocket above with left hand, right hand to side pull on right, move feet up, right hand up to crimp then to horizontal crack, left hand above that and then finish the last few moves.

8
22 Slippery When Wet Sport 7m, 3
9
V1 Access Route Boulder 2m

Basically just a way to get to the top of Mantle Mania

10
V6 Mantle Mania Boulder 4m

A pretty bad little chiseled climb that seams to finish at the top of the wall, if you can get up on the mantle then you're past the crux. the small side pull crimp high up might help.