Routes in Iron Cove

PUMPY! Start at the hidden undercling 30cm to the right of the hand rail to get up on the wall and traverse to the brown wall at the very end. To exit either step off onto the brown wall for an easy finish or round the corner as the final challenge. If you take the Pepsi challenge and go for the hard finish make sure your heals DO NOT touch the brown wall, stand tall on your toes, round the corner and step off onto the cement cover.

Starting where the graffiti is, use the side pull to start the problem. Make your way up and continue as for HHHH.

Starting at the lowest point of HHHH traverse right and finish the problem as for HHHH. Remember to keep your feet from getting dirty!

From a sit start make your way up and finish around the corner, without touching the concrete wall.

Tricky balancing moves

A solid sit start followed by a enjoyable angled arete.

Sit start under right most arete. Move straight up till you hit the arete and follow it to the left.

Discover the lovely holds left and right of the arete and top out

Can be done as a V0 Stand Start

A bare face? No, a delicate start with a satisfying finish

Stand Start in the middle of the Golden vertical streak just left of "Progress Forward"

Head straight up the bulbous rock using some balancing moves and a few mono's up the streak to top out over the rounded bulge without using the same holds hs "PF"

A Powerful sit start with a though provoking finish

Sit start just left of the Gold streak, and work your way up keeping in between this and the lichen streak of "IOE" - The holds in these two area's are off

commit to a balancing mantle and the rounded section to top out

Drop the grade to a V2 for a stand start.

Some committing lichen covered holds makes this a challenging problem

Sit Start under just right of the big patch of ferns and move up the black lichen covered part of the rock using sneaky crimpers and some tender footing.

A satisfying problem

Aww yea! a satisfying dyno to the jutting nose of the arete. A most enjoyable move!

Sit start under the prow with your feet on the rock in front of you (not on the rock embedded in the ground)

Power up the prow, match and staying right of the arete and layback your way up.

The start alone is worth repeating again and again!

Desperate finger-locking, flake-hauling or spanning - make your choice. Either way don't make too much noise in the bushes.

Start at bulb hanging down 1m left of R end of block. Start on this and traverse left staying below lip. Top out around left of overhanging arete. Fun.

Just where the stairs come down. Start on r of arete holding small flake. Move left using pockets, avoiding lip, till small obvious ledge. Over.

Just r of PtN. Left hand pinching in shallow break. R in large undercut. Move up and over slope, staying on the L side of the arete.

Smash downwards then roll rapidly into mud, water or oysters if unlucky: happy days!

Start as far right as you can. Hold round, sloping lip and move left around arete till you reach the corner. Easier if it wasn't so sandy...

Just right of HtP. Cube-looking boulder. Right hand above head height on the obvious jug on right corner of boulder to start. Smear up and over.

Lockdown desperado says it all. Just to the right of Project 1 in the bushes, left of the stairs. Sit start, stay on arete. Right hand in crack. Make it easier by moving left first, otherwise straight up and over. Simples.

Start low on the arête with your left and right hand in the obvious pockets. Make your way up the arête and exit to the right.

Start as for Did It, follow lip right, finishing as for Sky Rockets.

Start at the lowest point on the left hand side of the overhang and make your way up and to the left. Traverse left and finish by completing Did It. Extremely pumpy!

Sit start match on good roof undercling, move up and topout as for Exit Stage Left.

Start as for Exit Stage Left. Move left, but without using the large ledge. Top out around the corner, still not using the ledge.

Start at the lowest point on the left hand side of the overhang and make your way up and to the left. Make your way up to the second tier with a dyno and top out on the third tier to be king of the world.

A Sassy problem working the nose

Sit start at common spot under left side of the overhang.

Move up to the dominant ledge and then power up the rounded arete directly above you.

Once your hands hit the top, top out via the right side of the arete.

Start at the lowest point on the the left hand side of the overhang and make your way up and to the right. Finish by dynoing to the reachy slopper at the top.

Start on jug in middle of the cave and head straight out.

Use only slopers between 'In Loving Memory of Wilma' and 'Afternoon Delight' on the headwall.

Sit Start in the right section of the overhang with both hands on a ledge around head high when you enter.

After placing your feet on the rock in front use the assortment of holds in the roof to head out of cave, slightly to the right.

Using the sharp feature about 2m off the ground top out

Another loose hold has been found on this popular problem. Please refrain from working it until the second hold has been repaired.

A super fun sustained roof lined with good holds

Sit start at the same common area at the left of the overhang. Pull on and follow the line of holds out to the right most part. At the solid letter box stay right to top out on the right most part of the arete

Hold towards end of the climb is flexing a lot without much pressure. Welcome to work the first half of the climb or try skip the hold but please avoid till potentially fixed. A reminder to let rock dry for around 2-3 days as moisture can retain in the rock.

A good pump with a rewarding finish

Start the same as Afternoon Delight and end with Sky Rockets

Start as for Did it the longer way continuing to opening of cave. Down climb Exit Stage Left then move through low rails at the back of the cave and finish as for Sky Rockets

Same start as per Skyrockets, goes through the roof on the lower rail to the letterbox hold, then out left using the holds on the face all the way across to finish up Did it!

Start the same as Sky Rockets. Traverse towards the right. When you reach the letter box hold on the nose topout using the slight ledge on the left and a small crimper straight above. Stay clear of the V3 - Afternoon delight on your left.

Awesome roof moves finished with a demanding top out - enough so to deserve its own problem

Sit start same as Sky Rockets, follow the roof holds but at dominant letter box head straight up using the rounded arete

All face holds to the right and left of the letter box are out

A quick, easy climb on the boulder to the left of Did It. Start with your left and right hands on either side of the arete, make your way up and top out on the flat ledge. Like a posh wank, it isn't that difficult, but fun for practice.

Place preferred part of one foot on a small ledge high in the middle of the boulder. Execute a one leg stand-up, then a second to the top. No resting hands, arms or other body parts against the rock!

Matching your hands on the low ledge throw your left heel up and top out.

Same start as for SB but throw your right heel up and top out.

Match hands up top, feet low, left heel up and top out.

Same as for Stroke Side but use your right heel and top out.

Match hands on the raised lip, left foot up and top out.

Same start as for EO except throw your right heel up and top out.

Match your hands on the front left high ledge. Feet low, now top out.

Same start as for RAR, but exit right.

Match hands on the front right low ledge. Start feet low then exit left.

Same start as for SRU, starting with your feet low and exit right.

Start with left hand in pockety feature and right hand on sloper in low break. Move up to the lip and mantle.

Everyone has a favorite move - be it a fist jam, layback or mono

For one man its all in the name

Brendon "The Heel" Flanagan loves nothing more than using three (or four) limbs to hang his weight!

Whether it is a over hang (understandable) or a Slab (I still don't know how he does it!) - The heel hook is a constant tool in his arsenal!

This challenge is dedicated to him

Sit start at the left most part of the Ergo wall. Move up and right till you've got the ledge and immediately throw a heel up.

Now without losing a heel off the ledge move as far as humanly possible.

Once you pop - mark the spot with a bit of chalk and challenge your mates to beat it!

Record currently stands at 6m

Through discovering local boulders with Glady's gear, a legendary dyno to make up my lost hours was found. Starting with hands matched on ledge, dyno to lip of overhand then topout! When you get down walk right and find the legoman, if you can.

Deviation from the classic Gladys The Gear Provider. Same start with a right heel, finding a footchip beneath. Big reach up to the scoop on the left, with or without feet movement first. Work your hands left across the edge avoiding the sloper in between good holds. Throw your right foot up and pump your hand to a scoopy crimp and mantle up. Focus on rolling your hip over as there is no hand holds for the top out, pure slope.

Worth brushing, a bit of loose grit if unclimbed in a while.

Sitstart at low right jug. Move directly up to juggy lip and then head left to finish as for Gladys the Gear Provider.

Sitstart at low right jug. Move directly up to juggy lip and then head slightly right and up to mantle.

Original climb start was broken off, working out the start/.feet. First move right to the pocket, left to the obvious slot & use the nose on either side if needed before topping out. Grade TBD

Starting at lower rail, right hand press/Gaston to bump to a right jug, slap other side of the crack up top another left jug, top out up. Best to head up the top of the boulder to check where you can hold onto topping out.

Starting same Holds as Heels & toes, right hand to crimp 30cm above start hold, left to the Gaston move of BSB. Right hand over to sloper on the other side. Big move back left to the sloper on other side of the crack, pretty self explenatory after that, same last moves as BSB.

Starting at same hold as BSB, either straight up to the slot or left hand just above the start hold maybe 30cm up, matching on slot using a heel on start hold, to a mini rounded slot bump to the large slot from {. } & top out, using the little rounded bump makes the top out a whole lot easier.

Start at a big slot, right hand on a pinch & left up to the slot just to the left of you; match hands & pop hands up for a fun lil mantle with a heel on the little slot.

Just above “Beatrix was here” in chalk, is a narrow slot, whatever fingers you can get in there & have a fun mantle straight up. Good little warm up.

Starting at SOC, traversing from left ledge, across all the climbs staying in the middle of the rock, topping out at SRU.

Don't use bottom feet for ledges to add a grade.

A solid pumpy traverse that tests your core strength

Sit start at "SSASS", follow the multi-leveled lip of the cave to the left using the crimps and lip edge.

stay low for an extra challenge.

Top out just before the fig tree starts

Sit start at the right hand side of the rock, where the first starts to show form.

Move from one lip to the other without going to far left (that bumps the grade up)

Watch your footing and look closely for shin skin!

Start on the shallow flat edge and head straight up via left sidepull, dimple, and ironstone crimps.

Effectively one move then the end of Grunt Grunt.

Start with a matched undercling on the right side of the scoop. Move to the large slot and then directly up to the lip to top out.

Sit start same as "WGYY" but avoiding the solid incut and all of its holds move up and to the right to the pocket. Keep heading right to a white lichen patch and topout using the crimps

Start as side pull left & the obvious slot above the underclings. Pop your right leg for some sick body positioning & flagging out left with other foot. Fire up right to a sloper, the right sloper around head height is out. Left hand to the left sloper, grab some crimpy bois n top out.

Starting on the undercling, feet up on the ledge, right hand up to sloper dip, left just next to it, matching just left of your right. 2 little good crimps you bump to. lock off & top straight up.

A fun Start with some power required for the first two moves

Sit in front of the first scooped out section close to the floor (showing orange rock). Under cling and reach wide with some laybacking, power up to the solid holds straight up.

some cool movements!

Topitee-top out straight up

Good climbing with all of the holds on offer

at the scooped out section left of WGYY pump up the sides of this mini cave above, hit the lip of the overhang and top out

Flex your pecks at the local rowing lasses for extra points!

Start on the good crimp in the cutout. Directly up to the sloper on the lip and top out without drifting back left similar to 'Pellegrino'.

Same start holds as Smooth Water then make a big move to the slope at the top of the scoop to your right.

Top out directly above via the sloped pods and ironstone crimps (don't drift back left).

The logical progression to make the first move longer and more challenging.

Grade needs confirmation.

Starting from Smooth Waters (and subsequent far heel to the right), slap up to the sloper directly above your head (the darker patch of rock), then top out straight up from there.

A direct variant of Smooth Water consisting of two fun dynamic moves

Start as for "SW" with the heel hook abit further out to the right.

Instead of going out left for the pinch throw straight up with your right hand and land the big sloper on the lip. Match and throw again to slap the crimp rail on the bulge. Match and top out straight up using good holds.

Slightly easier than "SW" but more dynamic, fun moves but might be harder for the short

Made a little edit of this problem and Smooth Water: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v6GOQLvA3pQ

A most satisfying starting move!

Sit start just left of "BCIS" with a heel hook and hands on the delicate ledge line.

Pull on and throw for the angled pinch on the cave lip left from you. Make for the lip with the right, match and topout straight up.

A super satisfying problem

Same start holds as Smooth Water but traverse left without using the angled edge / pinch or any other holds on Smooth Water.

Grade to be confirmed. Cast your lockdown votes.

Variant: Use the angled edge/pinch and knock off a grade.

start on the pinch from the first move of smooth water (not used as a pinch for this climb, but as a crimp for right hand), left hand slightly to the left in a lil half pad-ish slot. Heel on start of smooth water & fire up to jug just above (not the right one), left to a crimp you can't see from below, lil left foot out. Right hand to a crimp racing the wrong way. Top out as per usual.

Solid pump with heel hooks and big slaps to good holds

Of all the ways to start, sit under the roof to the far left of the cave, right where the fig tree is sending her pain in the butt branches.

Reach up and grab the solid holds above. Pull urself up and throw your feet up and love the heel hook/toe jam.

Keeping connected to the rock move right while staying at the lip of the cave

Top out to the right of the highest point of the rock.

Pumpy!

Same start as FBB

The time move straight up and to the right, topping out to the left of the bulging top of the rock

Cool start with a burly finish

A left-to-right traverse starting at the jug just left of the Smooth Water top out. Keep hands along the lip, topping out near "SSASS". Pat Lee

Start on the lowest of the sculpted jugs to the left of the small cave. Climb up slopers before topping out up and left on some better holds.

Start as for Erg Chigaga and climb right through some spider-filled holes to a large jug before topping out straight up.

Fun. Sit start in the dark-coloured cave and make a large blind move around the lip to a slopey jug. Hold the swing and move up to the better hold to finish.

Just right of the cave is a large protruding fridge feature. Sit start on the lowest holds and slap up the sides to a mantle crux directly up. The separate section of rock to the right is off for hands and feet. Enjoyable moves that may be easier with cleaning.

Crag classic. Start lying with hands on the lowest Juggy ledge. Move up and right to a slopey hold and then back left to the ledge before topping out on good holds. Can be done going directly to the ledge or going left to a crimp first, both variants also V5. Landing is always very wet.

Start by pulling onto the highest band of rock on a side-pull and an edge. Sandy lower ledges and separate lower band of rock are out once you pull on. Gain jug out left through series of flakes in the roof before traversing back right on the face. Finish high on the rightmost slopey jug. The problem can be started at the jug on the lip for an athletic V3.

Climb the start of Sax Roof but eliminate the jug out left and go directly up to the good holds on the face. A tough single move on the lip.

Great problem. Start on hold under rooflet and climb up the left side of scoop feature before finishing up and left on the textured slopey jug. Can be started as for One Seven for some extra pump.

Unique. Start on the next set of holds under the rooflet and make your way up to obvious break before doing large deadpoint/dyno from poor feet to juggy lip. Finish matched at the top of the wall.

Start below obvious nested crimp on holds under the rooflet before moving up and right through said crimp. Join directly into the large jug on Kumamoto staying off the earlier holds used for this problem. Insects rain from above.

Start on the ledge under the rooflet and launch from crimps into the jugs. Finish high trending left on large holds.

Start on the obvious jug and move powerfully up big textured holds finishing high and right past the crimp.

Begin as for Burke's Backyard going up and then left into crimps before traversing into and finishing up Kumamoto.

Start between Burke's backyard and Tarzan and Jane. Move up through the obvious small incut crimp to the ledge above. Hard.

Stand start on the large scoop feature and underclings further right. Move up commiting onto good holds up right then back left finishing high on the top lip. Tall and upper holds are flexing.