Routes as sport in Lower cliffline

This is the far southern end of the crag. Initialled AH. Up left of cave and flake past 4 RBs to new lower offs. Rebolted by Vanessa Wills 2010

A bit contrived - try not to use any holds of Absolute Honey. Direct to first ring shared with AH then pass a bolt, traverse left to flake under a ring bolt and up pass another bolt. Shared anchors with 'Sniffing Dogs'

Starts at right side of large cave pass 5 RBs, veering right at end to shared anchors with Rapunzel

At slightly higher level at right side of bowl. Up past 2 carrots and a large angophora tree to DRBB

Start at white square 2m L of BLSB. CLip first RB from ledge then up, or return to ground for more value. Hard moves from pocket to flake then push on to ledge, anchors on wall above. Retro-ring bolted 2011.

Starts 1m L of the corner. Has been fully rebolted, take care getting to second bolt. Shares anchors with BBB to left.

Just L of F&B is a stunning black wall. Initialled BBB. All on RBs now. Hard moves through pockets then balancy step right and up to ledge and crack to shared anchors with route to right

The route 4m L of BBB. Great positions up the inviting crack. Starts from down on the lower level, left of the boulder. Up the easy initial lower section, then onto the wall heading L to the crack. Goods moves and a couple of classic jams along the way. Veer right at end to loweroffs. Retro ring bolted 2012.

Retrobolted. Start under R hand side of roof 1m to the left of TBTW (initialled). Yellow rock. Up passing rings, veer left then traverse back under 2 roofs to join the upper crack as TBTW to same finish Originally done with cams now fully ring bolted.

10m L of Sand Man. "Let your fingers do the crying, a climb to cry for!" Start as for 'Texas', up the corner, then traverse hard right across the vertical wall for some 4m before going up. Re bolted with rings 2011.

Take the direct line of 'Go North Young Thang' and avoid the left ledge above the slab by clipping the lower traverse bolt before heading up on the thin pockets and crimps. Looks like it will be a great line, but a bit contrived.

As for 'Texas', up 3 bolts to ledge, then traverse right 2 metres, clip RB then very cruxy move, up through roof and step right to anchors. All RBs. If you are in trouble at the crux a bolt plate on an old carrot and a spare draw will let you aid

Short wall with three bolts. Starts off ledge 1m L of PMMHH. Straight up wall past some dubious rock to the cave. Nice mantle to finish. Belay in back of cave. Rap off.

Starts 15m L of the corner at the right end of the slabs. The short open book corner with a u bolt at 3m.

1. 15m (21) Up the short crack and onto slab. Belay at the tree below the arete. 17, 19, or 21 depending on height!

2. 15m (20) From tree head up 1m right of arete on flakes. You can belay from the cave or continue thru to the top. Anchors are on top and require long slings, easy to collect on walk out. 30m to ground.

Starts as for Oysterland 1st pitch. 2nd Pitch - clip 1st ring of Oysterland the move L to the arete. Onto face and straight up using cams to protect.

4m L of TBL. The first of two fine, short cracks which finish in the alcove below the cave. Don't be put off by the seepage on the lower section of this and the next route. They are definitely worth the effort and not easy ticks

Another gem. The crack 3m L of PL. 1 bolt and two fixed hangers. Lower off anchors in the alcove above.

Through the overhang starting from the ledge above Pretzel Logic. Starts at the base of the overhanging nose of orange rock. Clip the first ring then through the overhang. The next two chain runners are attempts to remedy two problematic clips. After chains traverse R along the lip passing 3 more rings, a difficult mantel move and finish just below the manky roof at the rap station.

Start as for MITS, but at the 3rd bolts head straight up over the nightmare mantle that MITS avoids, and then easy left and up on jugs.

Starts 8m L of Monkey in the Soul at the L end of the cave at a double bolt belay. Move R across the overlaps up into the corner than further R across yellow hanging wall, out to the lip and up to rappel station. 1 fixed hanger and 6 rings. A good one in the wet.

This route is located in-between HIL and BJ and heads straight up. Stick clipping the first clip is recommended as the holds right bellow are often damp. Extend draws number 3 & 4; 7 & 8. Classic!

Initialled BJ. Fully rebolted and do as one pitch. Starts 3m L of HIL. Up the little slab to horizontal then up over small roof to orange corner and up to next roof. Yeehaa. Reach out blindly to clip fixed hanger, now swing on out and up trending R. To easy but airy ground to belay off tree in cave. Retrobolted 2012 Anchors are back behind block.

Start up BJ linking into WBF stepping left under roof and head up the amazing airey arete.

Whole lotta air out there. Start as for WBF. Up this for 10m passing bolt runner to first ledge and small tree. Now out onto R wall just inside arete (wires and cams) and up to final BR on airy bulge.

Beautiful open face climbing. Equipped with U-bolts in 2011 by Paul Riv.

1. 35m (20) Start 4m L of WBF. Bumble up 4m to start up the line of ring bolts. Now up flake then trend L. Just above this traverse R to blunt arete. Cruise up trending L to top. Fixed anchors.

2. 5m (20) Up rounded arete and crack to top.

Start Woodface as above. Instead of trending L after the flake crooooze straight up the arete to join original route. Ross Linsley had inadvertently climbed this arete assuming it was Woodface natural line. Same anchors as for Woodface and 'Hang Ten'.

The start is a 5m grovel to the steep wall.

1. 35m (25) Hard moves after 3rd ring. Excellent rock ringbolted to a big ledge.

2. 5m (25) Follow the roof crack R on finger tips, then a final hard move to the tree where the anchors lie. Crux's are good fun!!

Grovel up to the starting ledge then climb 'Hang Ten' for 3 bolts before traversing left onto ledge. Move along ledge to DBB. This leads to the start of 'Hang Five'. Follow the rings to finish on the L end of the 'Hang Ten' Ledge under the roof.

From the DBB on ledge head up and right to crack then back left into fused corner, then right to letterbox and finish on large ledge (abseil off). 70m rope needed to reach ground. Originally bolted by Andrew Powell but never finished climbed. Ring bolts added to make it a sport route in 2012.

1. From ground ascend through gap in ferns then with trepidation through chossy rock to ledge as for Hang Five.

2. Up fused corner to left side of arete.

Start up the stepping stones through the slime left of the chossy feature step right avoiding the crux of the unknown 25 then traverse left along ledge back onto it. Extenders to reduce rope drag. Or down climb traverse after clipping to retrieve last draw to remove drag. Contrived but fun.

Start as for SOG but go right and do tricky mantle onto ledge, up and bouldery moves to last bolt. Anchors are to left - shared with SOAG. Difficult to clean route so get someone to second maybe.

Rock at bottom looks like crap but the higher you go the better it gets. Follow the rings up trending left then back right through a couple of good overhanging sections.

Start: 10m left of 'Locked and Loaded'

Starts off the same terrace as previous route. Goes up the lovely orange wall a few metres L of BSMBP. The crux is the headwall above. If you do not wish to run it out after the third bolt a #1 or #2 cam will add courage. Rap anchor. Rebolted in 2015. 12 rings. The original route was intended to follow the hex bolts but it was never done. The Rings take the line of least resistance. Can appear a little run out so take a few mid size cams to sooth the nerves. A lower pitch has been added with four rings (easy # 16)

Megaclassic through steep juggy ground. Back to ground level, about 20m L of 666 The Beast 66, on the left wall of a small corner. Steep, airy and scary. Retrobolted 2020 (from 9 carrots to 19 Ubolts including the 2 sets of anchors). Can be done in one pitch with a sling extender or so.

1. 10m (16) Up thin crack to Ubolt belay (3 bolts)

2. 25m (20) Crux at the bottom. Trending R and up overhung arete and wall above. Lower off, or Ubolt belay over top (10 bolts)

Desperate. The short black wall L of cornered with the bucketed centre. 3 ring bolts and rap anchors. 3rd clip difficult.

Starts 2m L of BD. The first of two climbs with 3 ring bolts, that share a common finish up the smooth slab to a Double Bolt Belay.

1.5m L of BF. The little corner then the same as for BF.

Traverses right through the roof left of MB. 4 bolts, rap anchor.

Starts 2m L of OSP at the unusual extrusion in the back of the cave. Up R to ring than around roof to two more rings, finishing at a small broken angophora tree. Rap anchor as for OSP.

The first orange streak on the wall left of the cave. Ring bolted all the way to the top. Rap anchors.

The left of two obvious vertical orange streaks up superb rock. Hard moves down low then eases after 2nd ring. 1 bolt runner and the rest ring-bolted. Lower offs. Retro ring bolted 2013.

A few metres left of Golden Shower is a diagonal ramp. Follow this trending R and then traverse further R to a short corner. Up the rings to rap anchor. Retro ring bolted 2014.

5m L of STH. Problematic start. Thin moves past ironstone edges on a steep face. Follow the straight line of rings. Lower offs. Paul has rebolted this with rings feb 2015

The route starts in the left side of the cave, just to the right of Finger Candy. Start in back left at very rusty fixed hanger, and pass four more rusty FHs to finish on rope wrapped around a rock pillar, with single carabiner. Danger - all bolts and the anchor need replacing. Appears abandoned, as confirmed by Paul. Close to grade 30. Up for the taking if you want to rebolt and try. You may need to be able to do a double foot free shoulder lock on a roof, on slopers.

Starts 5m right of The Time Machine. Nice easy warmup route with a nice selection of crimps and pockets.

The first route you come to, on the initial decent into Ten Pin Gully access. Cruisy warm up. While technically not part of The Sports wall, it is on the some cliff line. Start easily on the block half way down the ramp.

The first route you come to, on the initial decent into Ten Pin Gully access. Cruisy warm up. While technically not part of The Sports wall, it is on the some cliff line. Start easily on the block half way down the ramp.