★★ Succulent Young Men 24

10m L of Sand Man. "Let your fingers do the crying, a climb to cry for!" Start as for 'Texas', up the corner, then traverse hard right across the vertical wall for some 4m before going up. Re bolted with rings 2011.

There are a couple of mixed routes but the majority have been retrobolted to bring the crag into the 21st century. If it is still mixed gear, leave it like that!