Routes in The Buttress

Climbs Coalition up to Gorilla My Dreams, then follows that to the top. Bad protection at the start, as with Coalition.

A great route with an even better name. Follow gillette to the ledge, then step backaround the arete and jam the big diagonal crack. When it peters out prematurely at a shallow niche you're forced into a couple of steep, thin moves to gain summit brick.

Gain the start of the wide crack by starting lower down in the gully (left of the now more popular true Direct Start)

Start halfway up the gully and launch directly up the wall following the bolted line. Bouldery start, then a very good rest mid-way up leads to a finger-jug at the final horizontal. Break left via a reachy move into the steep diagonal crackline, then finish up it.

Climb 'Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start' to the top horizontal (finger-jug), but instead of breaking left to finish up the crack, go directly straight up via the hanging flake/sidepull.

Longest route on the wall. Actually starts as for 'Gorilla My Dreams Original Direct Start' and takes a long diagonal up this then right across the now more popular bolted DS. Where that route breaks left to finish up the crack, keep trending right along the horizontal for a couple of moves, then launch upwards via underclings through a very bouldery finish exiting about 2-3m right of the other lines. Watch your back at the top.

This is more like it. run out face climbing. Start below and L of Balance's little roof and climb directly up the wall. No pro beyond half height.

Close relative of Lorikeet. Start in left side of cave. Straight up crossing Lorikeet and through second roof on improving rock.

Start below the overhung arete and step around left and up to right facing corner. Up and left to avoid the roof passing a truly horrible looking rusty carrot. Follow the crack to the top.