Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. South Coast 94 routes in Region

Trad, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 149.934651, -36.360813

Description:© (nmonteith)

Sandstone sea-cliff climbing a long way from anywhere.

1.1. Tuross gorge 3 routes in Crag

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 149.655752, -36.456090

1.1.1. waterfall cliffs 2 routes in Area


1.1.2. the summer fun walls 1 route in Area


1.2. Ben Boyd National Park 74 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.018558, -37.233754

1.2.1. Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay 31 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.018808, -37.212640

Unique Features And Strengths:©

The rock is a form of volcanic sandstone with fantastic frictional properties. Some of the rock looks friable but is surprisingly strong. Jointing and quartz intrusions make great natural pro.


Bittangabee Sea Cliffs North is a compact climbing area located within the Ben Boyd National Park, 300k south-east from Canberra near the NSW and Victorian state border.

The rock is a form of volcanic sandstone with fantastic frictional properties. Some of the rock looks friable but is surprisingly strong. Considerable jointing and quartz intrusions make for great natural pro.

The cliff is approximately 250 metres in length and ranges from 12-15 metres high.

The rock is heavily featured, quite steep with some small roofs and overhanging faces. The area has great potential for development as a challenging, if short trad climbing area. The use of bolts in this area is not considered appropriate as the cliff is located within the Ben Boyd National Park. Any harder routes can be protected on abseil or top roped. This is an ideal area for beginners with a multitude of easier climbs. The area is a beautiful spot and should be preserved as such.

Climbs are described south to north or looking at the cliff with your back to the ocean left to right. Descend at either end of the cliff.


Take Monaro Highway to Cooma, follow the Snowy Mountains Highway towards Bega via Brown Mountain. Turn right towards Candelo and head for Eden. In Eden turn right to Orbost, travel about 17kms and turn left onto Edrom Road. Turn right onto Green Cape Road after 6km. Turn Right at the T Intersection (8 km). Turn left at 6km on to the Bittangabee Bay road. Total trip time is around 3½ hours from Canberra.

Access the climbing area by walking north from the campsite on the Bittangabee – Saltwater creek walking trail. You have two options to access the trail, either via the beach or ‘Ruins Track’. 30 minutes of easy walking gets you to the top of the crag. The beach track starts on the north side of the camping ground turning loop. The ‘Ruins Track’ starts on the northern side of the day trippers’ barbeque area with both tracks joining on the southern side of Bittangabee Creek.

Walk along Bittangabee Creek in a westerly direction on a rather indistinct track, cross at the well worn rock bar and follow the more defined track through the Bell Bird forest. After cresting the ridge the flora changes to low wind beaten scrub. The track continues through impenetrable Ti tree before reaching a large exposed rock platform up to 100m wide at points.

Access can be gained at either end of the cliff by an easy scramble down onto the rock ledge immediately above the ocean. Profuse jointing at the top allows for solid top anchors to be set. Bring a few long slings or an extra rope and plenty of SLCD’s or hexcentrics. During heavy seas or king tides access to the climbs may well be impossible with the entire area exposed to southerly winds.

Where To Stay:©

There are plenty of choices for accommodation in the region. You can camp at Bittangabee Bay which has pit toilets, gas barbeques and a freshwater creek. A variety of campsites, van parks or motels are available in the region. Eden is close and has pubs for that quenching ale if you forgot to take water to the crag. This area is hardly a day trip but good for a couple of days. Check with the met office to avoid disappointment. Park entry fees of $7.00 a day per vehicle and camping fees of $5.00 per adult apply. You will need to book ahead by ringing the Merimbula rangers on Ph. 02 6495 5001 or Fax: 02 6495 5055


It is important to remember this is a National Park and sensitive to human activities. Whilst little vegetation grows on the cliff itself, be sensitive to the local flora and fauna. Bolts are unnecessary and chalk should be used sparingly as the rock has exceptional frictional properties and barely needs any. Do not camp at the crag and take out all you waste, do not dispose of it in the ocean or surrounds.


Information here is based on a guide put together for the CCA by David Cameron and Rick Carey. Rick is responsible for many of the first ascents in this area.

1.2.2. City Rocks 17 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 150.023693, -37.257136

Unique Features And Strengths:

Excellent compact sandstone sea cliffing a long way from civilization. All day shade.


This is a compact sandstone crag that is English gritstone like in appearance and climbing style. The climbs follow strong natural lines, using mostly trad gear. The look and feel to the cliff is a compact and darker version of Point Perp, but with generally better rock quality. Expect to see seals and dolphins playing off the rocks and fish swarming in the kelp. Crabs scuttle at your belayers feet whilst anemones cling to the rock pools along the base of the crag. There is great snorkelling straight off the rocks if the swell is low. There is evidence of huge waves, with hunks of wood wedged into cracks 10m off the ground. You will always have the place to yourself.

Every route is good and is worth doing. I refuse to give anything three stars, thus there are routes with no stars in this guide. Zero star routes are still recommend, but will usually not be as sustained as the higher starred routes. Generally the rock quality is superb, a fine grained sandstone which forms fluted cracks and pockets. Most routes have had one ascent, so make sure you check fragile looking holds before committing to deliberate run-outs. Because the cliff faces south it gets very little direct sun and needs a dry windy day to recover from heavy rain or big swells. We found that a wet cliff can dry out in a few hours if the wind is blowing just right. High humidity and a still day can also make the rock horribly greasy. This is not a sport climbing area. Every route in this guide requires trad gear, and most require a full rack, including micro cams. Climbers need to be proficient in placing fiddly gear to really enjoy this area. Offset wires are very useful for the flared cracks. Bolts have been used sparingly and only when no good trad gear is nearby. All bolts are stainless steel glueins. This is a seacliff with high levels of sea spray. Expansion bolts and cad plated crap are not to be used. Glue-in carrot bolts are located along the cliff top, usually well back from the edge. Most routes top-out for a belay off these bolts. This is to minimise the amount of bolts to maintain a low impact. Please respect this ethic and do not add lower-off bolts. Please always anchor or rap off a minimum of two of these bolts at all times. Some routes can be supplemented by trad anchors or tie off the bushes about 15m back from the edge with a long rope. There is still much unclimbed rock in the area. Most of it is choss. Please avoid establishing routes left of Storm Front Crack. The rock quality is much worse then the main wall, and it is much more visible to tourists and rangers. Lets keep this ‘choss sanctuary’ pristine.

Access Issues:

It's a National Park. Keep a low profile.


How do you get there? Locate Eden in far south coast of NSW. Get map to Ben Boyd National Park. Drive 550km aprox from Melbourne to City Rock day use car park. Follow marked tourist track to water. Look left – that’s the cliffs. The left side is sandy rubbish, the middle is where all the action is. Scramble up to top of cliff on left side. Follow tunnel through thick coastal vegetation and cut across to top of cliff as soon as possible. Walk along cliff edge (with care!) for a few hundred metres to locate large rock cairn on large open rock platform. Salty The Seal is directly below this rock cairn. Look for hidden belay BRs about 4m back from cliff edge. Storm Front Crack is located about 50m back westwards from the rock cairn (the way you just came from). All routes require fixing a rope and rapping in. Bring a spare rope and a rope protector for this purpose.

Where To Stay:

Great camping in the National Park!


Mixed climbing. Bolts only where there is no trad.


Developed by Neil Monteith, Jono Schmidt and Adam Demmert over two trips in 2007.

1.2.3. Pulpit Rock 26 routes in Cliff

Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.035112, -37.240309

1.3. Moruya South Head 12 routes in Boulder

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.161416, -35.908657


A small bouldering spot on the South Headland.

Can be affected by high tides so be careful. Also be careful with pad placements as there's a ledge at the base of the majority of the climbs that can make falls difficult


Head east at the roundabout in South Moruya on South Head Road. Follow all the way to the end and take a left onto Charles Moffitt Drive. Follow this around and turn left up the hill onto Coronation Drive and then go right onto Elizabeth St and go immediately right out towards the headland and park at the lookout point/cemetary.

Go left of the fence (you can look down onto the bouldering wall from the lookout) and follow the fishermans track down to the cliff line below. You'll see the area over to the right down a small scramble. 2 min walk in, be careful on the steep track down.

Not really accessible by public transport or walking from town.


Developed in January 2015 by Nick Murphy. Only several problems sent with potential for more

1.4. Whale Beach 5 routes in Boulder

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.141348, -36.051490


A very small crag right on the water in Tuross Heads.


Park near 27 Tuross Blvd and walk down to the obvious high boulders just south of the main beach. 1 min walk in.


Developed in Dec 2014 by Nick Murphy. Could've had previous ascents simply because of it's prominence but nothing marked or recorded.