South Coast Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Adrian Ridgley Nick Murphy Isabelle Wentworth Mark Hoggard Tim Hall Jaime Mesias Lucas Tatnell Dane Evans I Skip Crux Holds Dylan Glavas

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

1. South Coast 396 in Field
- 1.1. North Durras Caves 1 in Crag
- 1.2. Emily Miller Beach 8 in Crag
  - 1.2.1. Emily's Cave 8 in Crag
- 1.3. Guerilla Bay 5 in Crag
- 1.4. Bimbimbie 2 in Area
  - 1.4.1. Phoenix 1 in Boulder
  - 1.4.2. Simone de Beauvoir / SDB 1 in Boulder
- 1.5. Moruya South Head / The Ampitheatre 12 in Boulder
- 1.6. Whale Beach 7 in Boulder
- 1.7. Bodalla 4 in Unknown
  - 1.7.1. Pandora 4 in Boulder
- 1.8. Tuross gorge / Tuross Falls 6 in Crag
  - 1.8.1. Waterfall cliffs 4 in Area
  - 1.8.2. The Summer Fun Walls 1 in Area
  - 1.8.3. DWS area 1 in Crag
- 1.9. Tuross Gorge Access Road 8 in Area
  - 1.9.1. Pashing Dale Boulders / PDB 8 in Area
- 1.10. Gulaga East Face 1 in Area
- 1.11. Tilba 1 in Area
  - 1.11.1. Najanuga / Little Dromedary 0 in Crag
  - 1.11.2. Potential 2 / Central Tilba Peak 1 in Area
    - 1.11.2.1. Gulaga West Face 1 in Crag
- 1.12. Animal Docks 7 in Area
  - 1.12.1. Camel Rock Area 1 in Sector
  - 1.12.2. Petting Pen / The Middleground 3 in Sector
    - 1.12.2.1. Strike Cove 3 in Cliff
  - 1.12.3. Horse Head Rock Area 3 in Sector
    - 1.12.3.1. Hoof Boulder 3 in Boulder
- 1.13. Birthday Bluffs 0 in Crag
- 1.14. Brogo Dam 1 in Area
- 1.15. Biamanga Pools / Biamanga Cultural Area 0 in Area
- 1.16. Mimosa Rocks National Park 5 in Area
  - 1.16.1. Bunga Head 2 in Unknown
  - 1.16.2. Bengunnu Point 3 in Unknown
    - 1.16.2.1. Cave area 3 in Field
- 1.17. Tathra 21 in Area
  - 1.17.1. Whalewatchers Cave 8 in Cliff
  - 1.17.2. Pig and Whistle Wall 3 in Boulder
  - 1.17.3. A Room with a View 5 in Boulder
    - 1.17.3.1. Surf the Shingleback 2 in Area
  - 1.17.4. Kianinny crag 5 in Cliff
    - 1.17.4.1. Mini Wall 1 in Area
    - 1.17.4.2. Lower Wall 3 in Area
    - 1.17.4.3. Upper Wall 0 in Area
    - 1.17.4.4. Hidden Wall 1 in Area
- 1.18. Wallagoot Gap 4 in Crag
- 1.19. Tura Head 56 in Crag
  - 1.19.1. Rockpool Faces 9 in Cliff
  - 1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders 27 in Cliff
  - 1.19.3. Commy Cliff 8 in Cliff
  - 1.19.4. The Boat Ramp 4 in Cliff
  - 1.19.5. North Head Boulders 3 in Area
  - 1.19.6. The Passage 5 in Area
- 1.20. Beowa National Park / Ben Boyd National Park / Green Cape 148 in Crag
  - 1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay) 104 in Crag
    - 1.20.1.1. The Upper Tier 12 in Sector
  - 1.20.2. City Rocks 18 in Crag
  - 1.20.3. Pulpit Rock 26 in Crag
    - 1.20.3.1. North Side 22 in Sector
    - 1.20.3.2. South Side (Upper) 4 in Sector
    - 1.20.3.3. South Side (Lower) 0 in Sector
- 1.21. Nadgee 3 in Area
  - 1.21.1. Wonboyn 3 in Crag
    - 1.21.1.1. Greenglade / Naddies Bluff 3 in Crag
- 1.22. Narooma Fitness Centre 0 in Gym
- 1.23. Wog Supercrag 1 in Crag
  - 1.23.1. Summer Rain buttress 1 in Cliff
- 1.24. Cookie Cliffs 6 in Cliff
- 1.25. Bingie 89 in Area
  - 1.25.1. Mullimburra Point 1 in Crag
    - 1.25.1.1. Razor Blocks 1 in Sector
    - 1.25.1.2. Various potential 0 in Cliff
    - 1.25.1.3. Pinnacles Beach 0 in Sector
  - 1.25.2. Grey Rocks 59 in Crag
    - 1.25.2.1. Mum's Kitchen 16 in Cliff
    - 1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ 27 in Cliff
    - 1.25.2.3. The Pantry 16 in Field
  - 1.25.3. Bingie Bingie 29 in Crag
    - 1.25.3.1. Bingie Point 14 in Field
    - 1.25.3.2. Dreaming Stairs 15 in Field
2. Index by grade

1. South Coast 396 routes in Field

1 2 3 4 5 25 6 7 9 8 22 10 11 12 14 13 15 16 17 18 24 19 23 20 21

Summary:

Seasonality

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -36.416379, 149.988860

summary

Climbing a long way from anywhere.

description

A variety of climbing styles can be found throughout the south coast of NSW. With it's abundance of small towns and amazing beaches and a variety of other outdoor activities within the region it's a holiday paradise, but with plenty of routes and problems still yet to be discovered too!

Beowa National Park at the southern end of the NSW coast offers the main route (trad) climbing area, which is on quality sandstone. This NP also hosts the Light to Light multi-day walk.

A number of bouldering options are available, with these mainly located on rocky headlands along the coast where they are easily seen and accessed. Rock type and quality varies significantly from location to location and even within metres, so have a keen eye and nose if you are hunting for fresh boulders.

This area was ravaged by the 2019 Bushfires, so come with no supplies and spend up in the small towns where they really need it.

access issues

A lot of rock, a lot of private land, and a lot of bush.

approach

4 - 6 hours south of Sydney, or about 6 hours from Melbourne. Easily accessible from Canberra within a few hours.

where to stay

Any of the small towns offer Airbnb's, camping and other various accommodation types, most of them by the beach. Avoid staying at the crags as most are on private land or in a position to upset locals.

history

Crags were first found in the region and began development in the early 1990's with a slow but consistent rate of discovery by many different people throughout the years.

1.1. North Durras Caves 1 route in Crag

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -35.634404, 150.313764

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
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1		★★ Creepy crawly Traverse / Breath Traverse along a section of rock next to the cave. There are some fun heel hooks and toe jams to complete the climb. Set: Sam, 30 Mar 2019 FFA: Sam, 30 Mar 2019 FA: Sam, 30 Mar 2019	V3	Boulder 2m

1.2. Emily Miller Beach 8 routes in Crag

1 Emily's Cave

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -35.673496, 150.301879

1.2.1. Emily's Cave 8 routes in Crag

Summary:: Lat / Long: -35.674030, 150.301021

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	★★ Star Wars Hat Climb on the right side (from perspective of looking at the cave) Starts on the holds about 1.5m up and finished matched on the sloper on the roof. FA: Amelia Wingfield, 6 Jan 2017	V2	Boulder
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
2	★★ Better Beach Bouldering Sit start under where Star Wars Hat starts. Follow Star Wars Hat but continue up past the sloper and to the higher rail.	V4	Boulder
3	★★ How ya garn Start on the nice jug about halfway on the left side of the cave. Traverse left on some crimps to the big sandy sloper. Finish on a pretty good crimp outside the cave. Deep jug at halfway has broken off. Adds a grade or two. FA: Jacob Johannessen, 24 Feb 2018	V3	Boulder 3m
4	★★ The Greater Glider Right of Boys light up. Start down low left hand on left side of sloper with flat top, right hand slightly around the corner on worse sloper. Move out left and up to side pull rail, match, move left to good crimp and finish up on flat top jug. There was chalk on the holds before I got there so sorry if it was already sent. FA: steve willson	V3	Boulder 2m
5	★ Boys Light Up Start down low with hands on the sloper and move across the crimps to a pretty powerful move to the most obvious jug (careful if you don't get it right it bites!). climb finishes on edge top right. FA: Jacob Johannessen, 7 Apr 2018	V3	Boulder 3m
6	★ Its easy as 123, AM! Past the cave (ocean to the left). The vertical hand crack. V1 if you can jam. Make your way up till you are standing above the crack. Either jump off or solo to the top on average rock. FA: steve willson	V1	Boulder
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
7	Slices of Emily Jump to start on the slicey juggy ledge about two thirds of the way along the cave lip(the lower, meaner of the two jugs). Move up then left along the crack, finishing matched in the slippery yellow section of the crack where it intersects with the vertical crack. Jump to start can be tricky depending on sand height, start further along right side cave if necessary. FA: Josh Zylstra & Benjamin Flippence, 25 Nov	V3	Boulder 3m
8	★★ A Big Slice of Emily Start matched on big pinchy jug at right hand side of cave (as with Better Beach Bouldering, but no sit start). Move up through BBB onto top rail then traverse across to start and finish Slices of Emily. FA: Josh Zylstra, 19 Apr	V4	Boulder 9m

1.3. Guerilla Bay 5 routes in Crag

Summary:: Bouldering, Rock climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.824960, 150.226986

	Route	Grade	Style
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1	★ Cracking Crocs Up the crack in the corner, mantle then up to the top. Flakey rock, I don't think I'd trust gear placed in it but you could try. No obvious top rope potential. Climb with care. FA: Jarrah Turner	14	Trad 10m
2	Pocket Sized Guerillas Up on small pockets and face holds up onto the ledge. FFA: Nick Murphy, 30 Jan 2020	V1	Boulder 3m
3	★ Laying Off Guerillas Climb up the second rib to the right up off the second ledge, laybacking to the top FFA: Nick Murphy, 30 Jan 2020	V1	Boulder 3m
4	Bloody Mary Standing start on the left side of the bulge of rock, 2 jugs to start and pull up and onto the slab to finish with a top out. Be careful as some of the rock is a little sharp, some blood was left as a sacrifice by the first ascensionists. FA: Niggles & H.Tupper, 30 Jul 2022	V2	Boulder 3m
5	That's Cavey Baby Sit start with feet under the roof/on the back wall of the little cave. Mantle onto the slab above the cave and top out on the slab. Watch out for sharp rock in some of the holds. FA: Niggles, 30 Jul 2022	V3	Boulder 3m

1.4. Bimbimbie 2 routes in Area

2 1

1 Phoenix 2 Simone de Beauvoir

Summary:: All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -35.825620, 150.079190

1.4.1. Phoenix 1 route in Boulder

Summary:: Lat / Long: -35.825900, 150.082993

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
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1		★★ Princess Leia Short diagonal leading to a vertical crack. A good highball problem for those who want the added excitement. A direct start into the vertical crack awaits a first ascent. FA: Mark Shorter & Mike Masters, 28 Jun 2020	21	Trad 8m

1.4.2. Simone de Beauvoir 1 route in Boulder

Summary:: Lat / Long: -35.825046, 150.082884

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
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1		★ ERA East side of the boulder, weathered features to horizontal crack. Gear belay in crack at the top. Down climb off the back or rap using climbing partner on the ground as an anchor. FA: Mark Shorter, 2019	12	Trad 10m

1.5. Moruya South Head 12 routes in Boulder

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -35.908657, 150.161416

	Route	Grade	Style
1	General Admission The furthest most right boulder. Up the slightly overhanging prow arete from a sit start. FFA: Nick Murphy, 30 Dec 2014 FA: 30 Dec 2014	V2	Boulder 2m
2	Awkward Seat Shuffle Up the obvious leftwards leaning crack FFA: Nick Murphy, 30 Dec 2014	V1	Boulder 2m
3	Cramped and smelly Middle of the blank face to the left of the crack FFA: Nick Murphy, 30 Dec 2014	V1	Boulder 2m
4	The Social Ladder About 2m left of the entrance space. Climb past the diagonal cracks on big jugs to top out. FFA: Nick Murphy, 30 Dec 2014	V0+	Boulder 3m
5	Night Of The Screaming Opera 1m left of previous climb. Start with hands in the high rails, up to the bad pinch and deadpoint for the top. FFA: Nick Murphy, 30 Dec 2014	V1	Boulder 3m
6	★ Avoiding The Crowds Through the little overhang with underclings up balancy crimps to top out. FFA: Nick Murphy, 30 Dec 2014	V1	Boulder 3m
7	★★ Kings Lounge Move up to the left of the next little undercling roof, up to pocket and into the kings lounge rail. FFA: Nick Murphy, 30 Dec 2014	V2	Boulder 4m
8	★ Deep Money Pockets Stand start with hands in large pockets, move up to juggy rails and finish FFA: Nick Murphy, 30 Dec 2014	V2	Boulder 4m
9	★ Scooping Caviar Crimps to shallow scoop at 3/4 height and then to rail at top to finish FFA: Nick Murphy, 30 Dec 2014	V3	Boulder 4m
10	Horn Rimmed Opera Glasses Up to horn on the top of the wall FFA: Nick Murphy, 30 Dec 2014	V2	Boulder 3m
11	12 Rising traverse at the top end Set: Nick Murphy, 30 Dec 2014 FFA: Benjamin Korff, 10 Dec 2015	V1	Boulder 4m
12	Up in the Box Seat On the boulder on the platform above the rest of the problems Sit start on undercling rail and use crimps to slap to top FFA: Nick Murphy, 30 Dec 2014	V1	Boulder 2m
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1.6. Whale Beach 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.051490, 150.141348

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★ Whale Under Par Start in little overhung cave closest to the water and pull up from sit start on pinches and throw to rail above. FFA: Nick Murphy, 28 Dec 2014	V3	Boulder 2m
2	1.5 Short climb, with most of the fun moves down low. Start with both hands on the lowest jug (see chalky hold in image) and feet pressed out right on the adjacent boulder. Then work your way along the feature, before working yourself on top of it. Then an easy climb out over the top. FFA: Nick Gilmore, 25 Dec 2017	V1	Boulder 2m
3	★ The Whale In The Room 3m left of the previous climb/back up the beach. Small rightwards leaning crack corner, follow up from sit start without using the large left hand ledge. FA: Nick Murphy, 28 Dec 2014	V2	Boulder 2m
4	★ Beached As A... Same sit start as 'The Whale In The Room', except punch out left to ledge and mantle FFA: Nick Murphy, 28 Dec 2014	V2	Boulder 2m
5	★ Whale Of A Time Left again of the previous climb. Easy moves up face and moving up between vertical cracks FA: Nick Murphy, 28 Dec 2014	V1	Boulder 2m
6	★ 5 Obvious high ball crack problem. Needs lots of pads, or top rope it. Open Project	V7	BoulderProject 5m
7	★ Hidden Whale Behind the high ball boulder. Stand start, with both hands on the lowest part of the crack, then work your way up the rightwards leaning crack. Then easy climbing onto the top. FA: Jonathon Colman, 14 Jan	V1	Boulder 3m
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1.7. Bodalla 4 routes in Unknown

Access: CLOSED: SACRED SITE

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago

1 Pandora

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.131257, 150.087707

1.7.1. Pandora 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:: Lat / Long: -36.130157, 150.090244

	Route	Grade	Style
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1	★ Cames Jameron Start on the far left side of the flake and move right and up to the top. FA: Tim Hall, 25 Oct 2022	V2	BoulderProject 3m
2	★ Cames Jameron Sit Sit variant to Cames Jameron. Hasn't been done, hasn't been tried. Sit start on the good low crack-y holds on the left side. Big RH move to the start of Cames Jameron. Top out as normal.		BoulderProject
3	Potential 1 Good potential for a harder climb starting at the undercling to the right of Cames Jameron, moving directly up through some shallow holds. Set: Tim Hall		BoulderProject
4	Big and Cheesy Sit start at beginning of middle diagonal line. Follow line up and out. Rock below is out.		BoulderProject 2m

1.8. Tuross gorge 6 routes in Crag

1 3 2

1 Waterfall cliffs 2 The Summer Fun Walls 3 DWS area

Summary:: Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.215561, 149.555400

1.8.1. Waterfall cliffs 4 routes in Area

Summary:: All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.224696, 149.536444

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★ Can't hear you FA: Dave Cameron & Adam Steer	20	Trad 75m, 3
2	Brown Underpants Arete P1: 18, 40m - Up thin crack a few meters right of the arête to a detached flake. Traverse right around flake and move back left above it. Head up to the base of the bottomless chimney around the corner to the belay ledge with some fixed gear P2: 15, 50m - head right and up from ledge for 10m, tarverse 30m along orange rock. Continue 10m to top. back clean to P1 and rap off fixed gear FA: adam steer & david cameron, 2003	17	Trad 90m, 2
To access the following, rap in from the slings at the top of the falls (RHS looking up). If the river is low you can rock hop across to the start of Brown Underpants
4	★★★ Consumer Friendly Right of the falls. Rap in and start when it gets too slippery. follow the ledges and corner crack to the top. FA: Rick Carey & Jamie Valdivia, 2005	16	Trad 45m
5	Black Adder Set an anchor 10m right of the fixed abseil point. Rap in to a small ledge just above the water. Two 0.5 cams at waist height will prevent a swim. FA: Rick Carey & Dave Cameron, 2005	21/22	Trad 50m, 3

1.8.2. The Summer Fun Walls 1 route in Area

Summary:: All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.225024, 149.532600

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★★ Hot Damm Hot Start in the centre of the steep undercut slab. Crank through the bulge (21) or traverse in from left (20) and follow the crack line to the top of the slab. Rap off slings. FA: Dave Cameron & Adam Steer	21	Trad 30m

1.8.3. DWS area 1 route in Crag

Summary:: All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: -36.224816, 149.520204

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		1		Deep water solo 10m

1.9. Tuross Gorge Access Road 8 routes in Area

1 Pashing Dale Boulders

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.197233, 149.516737

1.9.1. Pashing Dale Boulders 8 routes in Area

Summary:: Lat / Long: -36.173239, 149.495792

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
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1	First is Worst Stand start, ascend the manky crack. Easy fun. FA: Dylan Glavas, 23 Aug 2021	VB	Boulder 3m
2	★ Delicately Stand start, delicately ascend, be careful of loose flakes. FA: Dylan Glavas, 23 Aug 2021	V0	Boulder 3m
3	★★ 2 Tabs of Acid Visible only once... Stand start on the rightside under-cling and enjoy the ride. FA: Dylan Glavas, 23 Aug 2021	V1	Boulder
4	Mank Crack 2.1 A filler. Sit start. FA: Dylan Glavas, 23 Aug 2021	VB	Boulder 3m
5	★★ Tufa 1 Fun Close your eyes and imagine your on limestone. Sit start and pinch your way up the arete. FA: Dylan Glavas, 23 Aug 2021	V1	Boulder 4m
6	★★★ Type 2 Team The chimney that was begging to be done. FA: Dylan Glavas, 23 Aug 2021	V0	Boulder 4m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
7	★ Ask Questions Later Stand start and climb the right side of the flake, be careful. Top out to the left. FA: Dylan Glavas, 23 Aug 2021	V1	Boulder 4m
8	★★ Coma Sit start with big hold. Move up and around the bulge to glory. FA: Dylan Glavas, 23 Aug 2021	V3	Boulder 4m

1.10. Gulaga East Face 1 route in Area

Summary:: All Top roping

Lat / Long: -36.286697, 150.037372

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Boxing Day Test Piece Slab start into shallow finger crack on the left side of the crag. A good rest half way up on a small ledge. As the finger crack runs out traverse to the right and up into a number of small crimps on the face which constituted the crux before a slabby finish. FA: Mark Shorter, 2020	20	Top rope 35m

1.11. Tilba 1 route in Area

2 1

1 Najanuga 2 Potential 2

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.317865, 150.072772

1.11.1. Najanuga 0 routes in Crag

access issues

hikingtheworld.blog/2016/01/16/little-dromedary-najanuga/

approach

hikingtheworld.blog/2016/01/16/little-dromedary-najanuga/

1.11.2. Potential 2 1 route in Area

Summary:: Lat / Long: -36.309461, 150.068995

1.11.2.1. Gulaga West Face 1 route in Crag

Summary:: All Bouldering

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Gerry Harvey’s Tax Return Prominent Boulder on the cliff side. Hard to find.		BoulderProject 3m
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1.12. Animal Docks 7 routes in Area

3 2 1

1 Camel Rock Area 2 Petting Pen 3 Horse Head Rock Area

Summary:: Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.377081, 150.080623

1.12.1. Camel Rock Area 1 route in Sector

Summary:: All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.378225, 150.080205

	Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Camel Bro Short slabby climb up the large faced boulder that runs parallel to the beach and just north of Camel Rock. Either a highball or could be led on gear, but was done ground up in approach shoes on first ascent, so not sure about placements. FFA: Nick Murphy, 31 Jan 2020	13	Trad 7m
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Route

Grade

Style

Selected ascents

★★ Camel Bro

Short slabby climb up the large faced boulder that runs parallel to the beach and just north of Camel Rock.

Either a highball or could be led on gear, but was done ground up in approach shoes on first ascent, so not sure about placements.

FFA: Nick Murphy, 31 Jan 2020

Trad 7m

1.12.2. Petting Pen 3 routes in Sector

1 Strike Cove

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.376507, 150.080424

1.12.2.1. Strike Cove 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Lat / Long: -36.376389, 150.080455

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★ Pulling Shark Teeth Sit start on the flake and head up through the big scoop up the easy face. Several pointy teeth shaped holds broke off on the first ascent giving it it's name. FFA: Nick Murphy, 31 Jan 2020	V0	Boulder 3m
2	★ Ride the Lightning Just South of Horse Head Rock there's a small alcove of rock surrounded by two parallel short slabby faces. This is on the smaller more northern face and is highlighted by the obvious white streak that runs through the face. Sit start and pull up following the streak all the way up and right. FFA: Nick Murphy, 31 Jan 2020	VB	Boulder 3m
3	★ Sent The Proj Starts on the backside of 'Ride The Lightning' inside the alcove. Sit start pulling on the right hand side pulls and gaston into the flat edges and move for the top Set: Nick Murphy, 31 Jan 2020 FFA: Mitch Lindbeck, 30 Jun 2021	V1	Boulder 2m
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1.12.3. Horse Head Rock Area 3 routes in Sector

1 Hoof Boulder

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.375364, 150.080830

1.12.3.1. Hoof Boulder 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:: Lat / Long: -36.374804, 150.080621

	Route	Grade	Style
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1	★ Horse Hoods Up through the curved blades on the left hand beach side of the Hoof Boulder. Start sitting and pull up and head right in the direction of the curved blades FFA: Nick Murphy, 31 Jan 2020	V0	Boulder 2m
2	★ Surefooted Horse Sit start and up through the vertical blades just to the right of 'Horse Hoods' FFA: Nick Murphy, 31 Jan 2020	V1	Boulder 2m
3	★ Going Horse On the right side of the boulder that faces the ocean. Sit start off the sidepull flakes and head straight up. FFA: Nick Murphy, 31 Jan 2020	V1	Boulder 2m

1.13. Birthday Bluffs 0 routes in Crag

description

On the west side of Mumbulla mountain, visible from the highway are several prominent bluffs that look promising.

access issues

Located within Biamanga National Park

approach

Likely by driving to the end of Stevensons Lane is the best way to access the crags. May require crossing private property so seek permission first.

where to stay

Very near to the large town of Bega which has plenty of options

history

I've heard rumors that these were called Birthday Bluffs, and had been climbed at some point prior to the 80s, but have found no further information

1.14. Brogo Dam 1 route in Area

Summary:: All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: -36.488743, 149.723181

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
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1		Belly full of pudding Straight up the middle of the boulder. Has been attempted once from a canoe start while hungover, with no chalk and no shoes. Probably no harder than V3.		Deep water soloProject 3m

1.15. Biamanga Pools 0 routes in Area

description

https://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/things-to-do/picnic-areas/biamanga-cultural-area

access issues

Located within Biamanga National Park.

The Aboriginal custodians request that visitors, through respect, do not swim in the Mumbulla Falls area - a site that is sacred to the Yuin People.

1.16. Mimosa Rocks National Park 5 routes in Area

1 2

1 Bunga Head 2 Bengunnu Point

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.582363, 150.041784

1.16.1. Bunga Head 2 routes in Unknown

Summary:: Lat / Long: -36.579907, 150.056678

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Candlestick Up the south face of the Candlestick	V2/3	Boulder 3m
2	★ Jack Be Quick Up the candlestick the easy way	VB	Boulder 3m
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1.16.2. Bengunnu Point 3 routes in Unknown

Summary:: Lat / Long: -36.603819, 150.037281

1.16.2.1. Cave area 3 routes in Field

Summary:: All Bouldering

	Route	Grade	Style
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1	Hesitation Up the weakness to the cave platform. Watch out for waves and spray, and the odd frail rock	V0	Boulder 3m
2	Left project Up the weakness above the cave to the left. The direct start a few meters left looks even easier		Boulder
3	Right project up the crack at the right end of the cave, looks easy, but high enough to require pads		Boulder

1.17. Tathra 21 routes in Area

1 2 3 4

1 Whalewatchers Cave 2 Pig and Whistle Wall 3 A Room with a View 4 Kianinny crag

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.731423, 149.988071

1.17.1. Whalewatchers Cave 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Lat / Long: -36.727317, 149.990066

	Route	Grade	Style
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1	★ I prefer the beach Sit start left then up arete to lip. traverse right and then up to obvious finishing jug FA: Tim Williams, Dec 2020	V4	Boulder 5m
2	★★ The White Whale Sit start on the jug towards the left of the cave. Traverse right and up through the roof with the big undercling and finish at the jug. FA: Lucas Tatnell, Dec 2020	V6	Boulder 5m
3	Call me Ishmael Sit start below the end of White Whale, climb up. FA: Tim Williams, Dec 2020	V3	Boulder 3m
4	Breach Sit start right of Call me Ishmael, big moves up to the lip and traverse left to jugs. FA: Tim Williams, Dec 2020	V2	Boulder 3m
5	Captain Ahab Start at Thar She Blows and traverse left to the finish jug of The White Whale. FA: Lucas Tatnell, Dec 2020	V2	Boulder 5m
6	Thar she blows Stand start in crack, follow up and right to jug. FA: Tim Williams, Dec 2020	V1	Boulder 3m
7	Pocket Junkie Maze Sit start on pockets a metre under jug and through the pocket maze finishing at the top of thar she blows, FA: 13 Jan 2021	V5	Boulder 3m
8	★ Chowder Start as for Breach, then left on the main horizontal crack at head height, through the start of White Whale, hard up and left finishing at the prow on the starting arete of IPTHB. Used to be V2 but it looks like a hold or two has broken off. FA: 31 Dec 2020	V5	Boulder

1.17.2. Pig and Whistle Wall 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:: Lat / Long: -36.727510, 149.989508

	Route	Grade	Style
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1	★ Whistling Pig Sit start, left side of face, where jugs and awesome grooves are. Straight up and top out.	V0	Boulder
2	★★ Captain Howdy Sit start, middle of face, straight up tallest part of face to top out. Very tall, pad it out.	V4	Boulder
3	★ Tubular Bells Sit start on corner/arete thing (right side of face). Up on jugs to top out.	V1	Boulder

1.17.3. A Room with a View 5 routes in Boulder

4 Surf the Shingleback

Summary:: Lat / Long: -36.730511, 149.989903

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★★ A Room with a View Start inside the cave with hands on the grippy sloper on the back wall and feet on the back wall just below your hands. Climb across the roof, heading out right (from looking at the cave), until you reach the edge of the cave. From the edge, head up the face and over the top. Something to note, the starting hand hold and footers are the only part of the whole back wall that is in this climb. When getting near the edge of the cave it may be tempting to use the back wall that comes round, it’s not in. Set: Nick Thornton FA: Nick Thornton, 2014	V6	Boulder 3m
2	★ It’s hip to warm up Start on hold just right if the crack and straight up. Set: Nick Thornton FA: Nick Thornton, 8 Nov 2018	V0	Boulder 3m
3	★ Cracked hips Straight up the crack and topping out over the top to the left. Set: Nick Thornton FA: Nick Thornton, 8 Nov 2018	V1	Boulder 3m
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1.17.3.1. Surf the Shingleback 2 routes in Area

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.730923, 149.989918

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	★ Plutonic pocket Fairly high! See the two pockets up high in the vague corner? Climb to the top via these. Start on obvious low jugs.	V3	Boulder 6m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
2	★★★ Surf the Shingleback Cool technical climbing up the face, fairly high for the last move so have a few pads! Sit start and make long moves up to the finishing ledge, then traverse easily left and down to descend. FA: George Broadfoot, 8 Oct 2020	V6	Boulder 5m

1.17.4. Kianinny crag 5 routes in Cliff

4 3 2 1

1 Mini Wall 2 Lower Wall 3 Upper Wall 4 Hidden Wall

Summary:: Lat / Long: -36.736744, 149.985410

1.17.4.1. Mini Wall 1 route in Area

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.736842, 149.985158

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
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1		★ Morpheus Sit start in the vague corner. Climb up and slightly right to the jug and top out. FA: Lucas Tatnell, 31 Jan 2021	V4	Boulder 3m

1.17.4.2. Lower Wall 3 routes in Area

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.736766, 149.985385

	Route	Grade	Style
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1	★★ Project Sit start on the jug under the roof. Climb up the arete and top out. Project, approx v6.		Boulder 3m
2	★ Walruses Sit start on the jug under the roof. Traverse onto the slab and climb up. FA: Lucas Tatnell, 31 Jan 2021	V3	Boulder 3m
3	Project 2 Sit start at the right of the slab and climb up the slab. Project, v6 or v7 approx		BoulderProject 3m

1.17.4.3. Upper Wall 0 routes in Area

description

The smaller wall above lower wall.

1.17.4.4. Hidden Wall 1 route in Area

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.736650, 149.985522

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
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1		Dorpheus Sit start on the huge jug under the roof. Climb up through the sharp pocket and top out. FA: Lucas Tatnell, 31 Jan 2021	V5	Boulder 3m

1.18. Wallagoot Gap 4 routes in Crag

Summary:: All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: -36.787256, 149.962569

	Route	Grade	Style
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1	★★ Horizontal Predominance Mainly an access traverse for the cooler routes at the very end. Horizontal line out from the beach to the small platform at the end, staying low on the water line. Good holds most of the way, with some minor challenges, particularly if you do it barefoot. FA: Tim Hall & Keyser, 13 Mar 2023	14	Deep water solo 30m
2	Slab line Unclimbed slab project at the far end of the cliff. Probably not a bad landing if you are clever about it, and a decent bit of climbing.		Deep water soloProject 5m
3	★ Hard line Line up the arete between the slab and the incut line. Crimpy and sustained. It has been confirmed (unexpectedly) that the water below is deep.		Deep water soloProject 4m
4	★ Can Goannas Swim? A proper DWS line over nice, deep water. FA: Tim Hall, 22 Mar 2023	V3	Deep water solo 6m

1.19. Tura Head 56 routes in Crag

5 1 2 3 6 4

1 Rockpool Faces 2 Rockpool Boulders 3 Commy Cliff 4 The Boat Ramp 5 North Head Boulders 6 The Passage

Summary:: Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.854280, 149.947438

1.19.1. Rockpool Faces 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.855318, 149.949110

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Left line Sit start 3m left of The Big Reach. Up 2m then left and up short water streak to top out. Left edge was used but an eliminate would make a good route too. FA: Mitch Lindbeck, 1 Jul 2021	V1	Boulder 4m
2	The Big Reach Sit Start with hands on the Jugs, trying to reach the big fissures on the way	V1	Boulder 6m
3	★★ Don't Look down Sit start with both hands on the Jug, Pull up and move towards the crack and then head out. FA: Jaime Mesias, 10 Oct 2019	V2	Boulder 6m
4	★ Pockety Pop On the left hand wall with the obvious pockets and breaks. Straight up through these and into the high pocket using the crack to the right. Some large cams might help on the horizontal breaks along with small wires for the cracks. Can also be done as highball boulder. FFA: Nick Murphy, 1 Feb 2020	17	Trad 6m
5	★★ Push that Toe Stand Start Putting Both hands inside the crack and use your toe to push in the wee hold at the beggining of it. FA: Jaime Mesias, 5 Oct 2019	V1	Boulder 6m
6	★★ The Swing Cross hand start from the Edge, Move along the side crack towards the main crack. FA: Jaime Mesias, 11 Oct 2019	V1	Boulder 6m
7	★ Don't swing Start at the swing but continue straight up the arete to top out. FA: Mitch Lindbeck, 1 Jul 2021	V0	Boulder 5m
8	Pooling In The Cracks The corner climb to the right of 'Pockety Pop'. Easy climbing and could be setup as a good top-rope option. FFA: Nick Murphy, 1 Feb 2020	14	Trad 5m
9	★ Gravity Sit Start w' hands on the pockets, pull up towards the finger pocket FFA: Jaime Mesias, 14 Sep 2020	V5	Boulder 2m
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1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders 27 routes in Cliff

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.855388, 149.949470

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★ Seagull Sit Start with both hands on the Jug, move underneath the roof towards the Flake FA: Jaime Mesias, 24 Apr 2020	V2	Boulder 3m
2	★ The Pop Sit start, move into the flake, manage the dino	V3	Boulder 4m
3	★★ Ring and Cling Pull up from sit start on holds just above the large boulder under the roof, move up to the jug rail and into the undercling above and top out FFA: Nick Murphy, 1 Feb 2020	V2	Boulder 3m
4	Red Fiat Sit start at the far back of the cave on a sidepull and undercling. Out through the crimps and straight over. FA: Tim Hall, 12 Mar 2023	V5	Boulder 3m
5	★★ Orange Juice Sit Start on the undercling, Pull up into the crimp and follow the fisure FA: Jaime Mesias, 16 Sep 2020	V3	Boulder 3m
6	★★ Terminator Sit Start with both hands on the undercling following the fisure and then reach over to the jug just above the overhang. FA: Jaime Mesias, 24 Apr 2020	V2	Boulder 3m
7	★ Sunbake Start with both hands on the Edge and then move right. FA: Jaime Mesias, 20 Feb 2020	V2	Boulder 3m
8	★ Sunbake #2 Same start of "Sunbake" just with a little variation at the end, Top right. FA: Jaime Mesias, 20 Feb 2020	V2	Boulder 3m
9	★ Beach Walk Stand start with both hands on the edge, follow the fisure	V4	Boulder 6m
10	★ Strech Ya Legs Sit start with Both hands on the Edge, legs stretched and pull up towards the big Edge FA: Jaime Mesias, 3 Apr 2020	V0	Boulder 2m
11	★★ The pull Sit Start, Both Hands on the Sloper. Pull left into the Big Jug on the left and the Top out by the slopper on the right FA: Jaime Mesias, 3 Apr 2020	V0	Boulder 2m
12	★ Strechy 2 Sit start with both hands on the big white Quarzo, pull up into the undercling and then top out right by the sloper. (use the little holes for the feet, makes it fun) FA: Jaime Mesias, 3 Apr 2020	V0	Boulder 2m
13	Going for a walk Sit Start, and follow the fisures up. FA: Jaime Mesias, 25 Mar 2020	V0	Boulder 3m
14	★ The View Sit Start: Pull up towards the pockets and mantle out FA: Jaime Mesias, 25 Mar 2020	V0	Boulder 3m
15	Footy Feet Only! FA: Jaime Mesias, 14 Aug 2020	V1	Boulder 2m
16	Cornflakes Sit start with hands on the Flake and push up towards the pocket FA: Jaime Mesias, 27 Apr 2020	V0	Boulder 2m
17	★ Super Flake Sit Start using the pinch, push up and follow the crag. FA: Jaime Mesias, 27 Apr 2020	V1	Boulder 2m
18	The wee Flake Crossed hands on the Flake following up the left crag FA: Jaime Mesias, 27 Apr 2020	V0	Boulder 2m
19	★ El Queso Sit Start with both hands on the Sloper push towards the wee Jug and up to the Undercling FA: Jaime Mesias, 27 Apr 2020	V1	Boulder 3m
20	The Tower Sit Start on the Sloper, move along to reach the edge on the far right side. FA: Jaime Mesias, 27 Apr 2020	V1	Boulder 3m
21	★ The hug Hug the Boulder from the bottom Pockets, reach the Jug on a long strech move. FA: Jaime Mesias, 27 Apr 2020	V1	Boulder 3m
22	★★ Elephant Sit start on the big pockets, move into the pinch on the right side and up to the edge. FA: Jaime Mesias, 4 May 2020	V3	Boulder 3m
23	Bloody Elephant Sit start with both hands on the Jugs, move left to the flake and follow the crag up FA: Jaime Mesias, 13 May 2020	V2	Boulder 3m
24	The Crimp Sit Start grabbing the crimps on each side and pull up FA: Jaime Mesias, 27 Apr 2020	V0	Boulder 1m
25	★★ Spidy Spidy Sit Start using the pinches underneath the boulder, Move along the crag FA: Jaime Mesias, 4 May 2020	V2	Boulder 3m
26	★★ Watson's Wormhole Sit start with hands on either side of the deep undercling just to the left of Octopussy. Move right out wide to the finger pocket then straight up using side pulls on both sides to the top. FA: Timothy Brunette, 27 Dec 2022	V3	Boulder 3m
27	★ Octopussy Sit start on the undercling in the cave, blast out to the small pocket and top out over the highest point, using the crack for left hand FA: James Smith	V5	Boulder 3m
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1.19.3. Commy Cliff 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.855675, 149.949388

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
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1	Pocket Cutter Sit start to pull off the pockets in the horizontal break and the sidepulls and hit the big rail and then balance up to the top of the cliff and mantle out. FFA: Nick Murphy, 1 Feb 2020	V1	Boulder 2m
2	★ The Red Terror Sit start and pull off the big pocket follow into the right trending crack on jugs and mantle out. FFA: Nick Murphy, 1 Feb 2020	V1	Boulder 2m
3	★ The Opposition Start sitting off the jug at the bottom of the crack and gaston up the two sides. FFA: Nick Murphy, 1 Feb 2020	V0	Boulder 2m
4	The other undercling Open project - sit start on the undercling to the left of the other big undercling. Up to top. Set: Mitch Lindbeck, 1 Jul 2021		BoulderProject 2m
5	On The Rise Project Open Project Big move from big undercling pocket all the way to the top Set: Nick Murphy, 1 Feb 2020		BoulderProject 2m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
6	Laying the Foundations Sit start, up the layback flake to the left of the crack. FA: Mitch Lindbeck, 1 Jul 2021	V0	Boulder 2m
7	Last Stand Last crack on the right before you end up in the dirty rockpool. Grade is for a standing start, sit start yet to be done. Set: Nick Murphy, 1 Feb 2020 FA: Mitch Lindbeck, 1 Jul 2021	V0	Boulder 2m
8	Barefoot bandit Stand start in the water a couple of metres right of the previous route at the next crack. Up to top. FA: Mitch Lindbeck, 1 Jul 2021	V0	Boulder

1.19.4. The Boat Ramp 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.855954, 149.949513

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★ You Can't Park That Here! Sit start and pull up the layback crack running beside the bulge and mantle out on the jugs FFA: Nick Murphy, 1 Feb 2020	V0	Boulder 2m
2	Big Boat, Big Fish Sit start into the left leaning flake/crack and top out over the tiny overhang FFA: Nick Murphy, 1 Feb 2020	V0	Boulder 2m
3	★ Slotting It In Backwards Start off the horizontal slot and move around the corner to the right on the sloping crimp rail and small feet to top out. FFA: Nick Murphy, 1 Feb 2020	V1	Boulder 2m
4	4		Boulder 2m
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1.19.5. North Head Boulders 3 routes in Area

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.852463, 149.944985

	Route	Grade	Style
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1	The Cormorant Sit start on the obvious undercling, up to the flat jug and traverse right on crimps to a slopey top out. Side note: anything to the right of the protruding rock on the far right is out; there's a crack running down alongside it that acts as a boundary of sorts. James McMaster FA: James McMaster, 2 May 2022	V4	Boulder 2m
2	Seaspray Start the same as The Cormorant, but instead of traversing right top out straight over the middle of the boulder. FA: James McMaster, 2 May 2022	V2	Boulder 2m
3	Tidal Traverse Stand start matched on the sloper with small ledge directly below for feet. Traverse left through crimps and flat jug to a big shouldery move out left, before topping out over the highest point of the boulder. James McMaster FA: James McMaster, 1 May 2023	V2	Boulder 2m

1.19.6. The Passage 5 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -36.855908, 149.947660

	Route	Grade	Style
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1	Route 1 Far left. Expansion bolted climb that follows the vertical seam directly up. Looks like a generous amount of holds.		SportProject 15m, 6
2	Tennis Middle left. Good holds but with a slightly barren top section. The crux really is right before the chains. FA: Tim Hall, 25 Feb 2023	19	Sport 15m, 6
3	Tennis Bail A link-up of the easier part of Tennis to the Racket chains. Follow the line of least resistance away from the Tennis dihedral.	18	Sport 8
4	★ Racket Right middle. Bit more saistained and thin	21	Sport 15m, 7
5	Route 4 Far right. Looks to be the hardest of the lot perhaps.		SportProject 15m, 6

1.20. Beowa National Park 148 routes in Crag

1 3 2

1 Bittangabee (North side of bay) 2 City Rocks 3 Pulpit Rock

Summary:: Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.234642, 150.013737

1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay) 104 routes in Crag

1 The Upper Tier

Summary:: Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.211321, 150.022993

	Route	Grade	Style
2	Kylies Psyche (The 1st climb on south end of platform) Tackle roof on jugs, left of obvious corner. Then straight up the easiest line to left side of orange rock bay and top. (Step right to a variant finish, grade 18). FA: Rick Carey & Kylie Chomatek, 2001	17	Trad 8m
3	The Air of Inevitability Start up corner, break through roof on the left, finish up crack. FA: John Wentworth, 1982	20	Trad 8m
4	★ Air of Expectancy Climb corner and R face to roof. Plug the roof with cams on R allowing fear and trepidation to mount. Gather your gusto and with an air of expectancy, launch out to huge horizontal and up face to ledge with ever-decreasing jugs and thinning pro. Up to top. FA: Peter Lynch, 2012	19	Trad
5	★ Stairway to Higher Places First crack at left hand end, just right of cavey section. Bouldery start leads to enjoyable climbing. FA: Peter Lynch, Paul Thompson & Brent Johnson, 2011	17	Trad 12m
6	★ Facing an Unpalatable Truth Crack left of Flight 11. FA: Stuart McElroy & michael batchelor, 2006	18	Trad 11m
7	★ Flight 11 Straight up obvious slopey crack left of MOL (Difficult to protect on lead) follow crack line to block at top, over block to top. FA: Rick Carey & Kylie Chomatek, 2001	20	Trad 8m
8	★ The Universe and Everything Unprotected low down without side runners. An eliminate line, squeezed in and avoiding everything in the cracks to left and right. Straight up bouldery moves past the small undercling. FA: Kai Seth Robertson FA: 21 Apr 2022	20	Trad
9	★★ Meaning of Life Up the most obvious crack line on the far right of wall. FA: Rick Carey & Kylie Chomatek, 2001	18	Trad 12m
10	★ Sunday Outing Last crack before right corner. Bridge corner, pull onto wall, and follow crack to top. A deliciously pumpy excursion. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2012	16	Trad
11	Squeezed In R of Sunday Outing, up chimney to ledge and follow seam to top. FA: John Wentworth, Josh Keogh, Juice & Peter Lynch, 2012	13	Trad
12	Descent gully Up onto the block and up the flake. Frequently used as a down climb to access the platform. FA: John Wentworth, 1982	8	Trad 11m
13	★★ Underneath Work Undercut start a few metres left of AQPFR. Crank hard and twist lock to small mantle edge. Desperate moves to crimpy edges on back wall. Arrange cams under rooflet flake, undercling and find the hidden flake up high. Cruise to the top. FA: Dave Cameron & Richard Morley, 2005	19	Trad 11m
14	★ A Quick Prick From Rick Climb up the two large cracks on jugs, a single crack leads to the top. Good wires for pro. FA: Rick Carey & Kylie Chomatek, 2001	17	Trad 12m
15	★★ EBs Make it EZy 1 metre right of AQPFR. Up flake and straight up wall. FA: John Wentworth, 1982	13	Trad 12m
16	KitKat Same start as EBs Make it EZ. Up flake and into corner. FA: John Wentworth, 1982	13	Trad 12m
17	★ Candyman FA: Justin Ryan	22	Trad 12m
18	★★ Third Time Looser Up edge of the thin central flake. Use 1½ and 2 cams in quartz intrusion at roof for pro. Traverse left to the arête where a hidden thread allows a good rest. Layback up the arête, gear in slots. FA: Dave Cameron, 2005	18	Trad 12m
19	★★ Shits 6:30AM Start as TTL. Crank through roof and up slopes to pocket. A jugular popping mantle leads to a good rest. Run it out to top. FA: Dave Cameron, 2005	23	Trad 11m
20	★ Coffin Lots Start up diagonal flake, step right around corner, and up crack. (Variant start for Coffin Slot). FA: Paul Thompson, 2010	14	Trad
21	Coffin Slot Start up wide slot, and continue up crack. FA: John Wentworth & Peter Lynch, 2010	14	Trad
22	Head Tripper Sketchy lead. No protection for 6m. Delicate, balancy, and plays with your head. Requires a good spotter. Finish up through fun overlaps. FA: Peter Lynch & Alex Wootten, 2012	20	Trad
23	★★ Black Chasm The excellent dark and shady corner that regularly sees climbers unfamiliar with the art of bridging grovelling in the crack. FA: John Wentworth, 1982	13	Trad 10m
24	★★ Up Up and Away Variant of Boys Light Up. Up gymnastic start then straight up L arete only. FA: Stuart McElroy & Michael Batchelor, 2006	16	Trad 10m
25	★★★ Boys Light Up Has it all, gymnastic start leads to a delicate face capped with an overhanging finish. All in a short action packed 9 m. FA: John Wentworth, 1982	17	Trad
26	Errol Up the small undercut crack just around arete, approx 2m to the R of Boys Light Up. FA: John Wentworth, 1984	18	Trad 10m
27	★★ Yorkshire Girls Draw Blood 3 m right of NNA at obvious flakes. A tricky start then straight up flakes, great gear, great fun, very rough treatment for the uninitiated. FA: Dave Cameron & Richard Morley, 2005	17	Trad 12m
28	★ Other Flake Line Squeezed in 1m R of YGDB. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2012	16	Unknown
29	★★ Left Crack The left of the two twin cracks. Delightful hand jams. FA: John Wentworth, 1982	16	Trad
30	★ Right Crack The right of the twin cracks. FA: John Wentworth, 1982	15	Trad
31	I Can Jump Puddles Face left of major corner LoF. FA: Peter Lynch & Brent Johnson, 2010	15	Trad
32	★ Leap of Faith Major corner on R end of the wall. FA: John Wentworth & Vicky Wootten, 1986	11	Trad
33	Jealous Tart Start easily up the diagonal crack behind the flake, onto ledge then up purple wall straight above (crux) protect with large cam. FA: Kylie Chomatek & Rick Carey, 2001	16	Trad
34	★ Beautiful Bridget Up the line of shallow pods/pockets passing a two finger pocket en route – to the left of Johnny Shoot the Messenger Boy FA: Stuart McElroy & Michael Batchelor, 2006	16	Trad
35	Johnny Shoot the Messenger Boy Step across the water onto the arête, head on up, cams in horizontals. Arrange gear under small roof and pull through to glory. Alternate starts possible. FA: David Cameron, Richard Morley & Mal MacDonnell, 2005	16	Trad
36	I Would Give Anything Just to Be Like Him Start at crack line at water's edge, and finish up left facing corner on R. FA: John Wentworth & Peter Lynch, 2010	15	Trad
37	★ Water Light L of WT. Delightful climbing requiring a tad of commitment. Aim for the dinner plate then finish up L facing corner and overlap. FA: Brent Johnson & John Wentworth	17	Trad
38	★★★ Water Torture Classic of the crag. The overhanging nature of this climb will leave a leader digging deep as you go for the top. Start on left and step onto wall over perpetual puddle, traverse right into line and follow face and flakes up to large horizontal. Move R to double threads and blast for the top. FA: Peter Lynch, 2010	18	Trad
39	★★ Water Board The corner crack finishing straight up. Reach the start by funky traverse in from the right end of puddle. Lose a star if you traverse in from the left. FA: William Wentworth, John Wentworth & Peter Lynch, 2010	17	Trad
40	Left of Centre First climb on Buddha Wall (small sloping wall fronted by perpetual puddle). Step onto wall at Buddha's face (clay stone pocket, whose features have now washed away). Trend left to top without using the major leftmost flake. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2013	9	Trad
41	★ The Middle Way Let Buddha show you the way to enlightenment. From the face of Buddha, straight up. FA: John Wentworth & Peter Lynch, 2013	9	Trad
42	★ The Right Path Half metre right of TMW. Tread the path with care, euphoria awaits you at the top. FA: John Wentworth & Peter Lynch, 2013	12	Trad
43	★ Shoulda, Coulda, Buddha Start as TRP, immediately step 1m R and delicately slab your way to nirvana, keeping out of the R crack for full value. Shy on pro. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2013	15	Trad
44	Climb the Crack, Stupid Climb the prominent crack to the top. Can be turned into an epic if you mix up your left and right. FA: John Wentworth, 2010	11	Trad
45	★ Enter the Zone Absorbing climbing with lovely moves and a surprise finish. Straight up faint crack to ledge. FA: Peter Lynch, John Wentworth & Brent Johnson, 2011	17	Trad
46	★ Water Dragon Committed approach, up faint crack then step right and follow weakness. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2010	17	Trad
47	★★ Smashing! The wall a couple of metres left of Sedition FA: Stuart McElroy & Michael Batchelor, 2006	17	Trad
48	★★ Sedition / Serendipity Step across the water onto the face and place gear as you see fit (Don’t comment on the government). Trend left (of the political landscape) over the bulging (capitalists pigs) and place cams in the sickle shaped crack. Undermine the status quo by using underhanded techniques in the crack, then head straight up the middle of the road on good crimpers. Easier than it looks, easier said than done. FA: John Wentworth, 1983	19	Trad
49	★★★ Yosemite Corner 2m R of Sedition. Delicately bridge through thought provoking corner up to steep top wall. FA: John Wentworth & Peter Lynch, 2009	17	Trad
50	Yosemite Crack Flake line just R of YC. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2009	14	Trad
51	RP Special Face and book corner just R of Yosemite Corner. (RPs Optional). FA: John Wentworth, 2009	12	Trad 6m
52	★★ Nose of El Capitan Boulder moves up the steep arete, 2m R of Yosemite Corner. FA: Alexander Wootten, 2010	18	Trad 6m
53	All-dis and dat First climb on Brave New Wall. Flake system at left side of wall. Good value for a short route. FA: Peter Lynch & Paul Thompson, 2011	17	Trad 6m
54	Epsilon Dreaming Main central crack up to pocket and finish. FA: Alex Wootten, John Wentworth & Peter Lynch, 2010	18	Trad
55	Dystopocket 1m R of ED. R leaning flakes to trick top out, steeper than it looks. FA: John Wentworth, 2010	18	Trad 6m
56	Aiming High (Pete's Boulder Problem) 1m R of D, 1m L of SP. Technical, steep, a great climb. Can be done as a solo. Shy on gear, could place a good cam up high after the difficulties. Bring a crash mat! FA: Peter Lynch, 1 Nov 2015	21	Boulder 6m
57	★ Surprise Package Up undercut flake corner to ledge then continue to top through two roofs. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2009	15	Trad 12m
58	★ The Trickster Face 1.5m R of SP. Pumpy face climbing to ledge, continue through double overhangs with a tricky finish. FA: Peter Lynch, John Wentworth & Brent Johnson, 2011	17	Trad 12m
59	Not Moonlight Buttress Little L facing corner in centre of slab. Bouldery start then up delicate corner to thought provoking finish. Shy on pro. FA: John Wentworth, Brent Johnson & Peter Lynch, 2011	15	Trad 12m
60	Crimpy Corner 1/2 m R of NMB. Boulder start to jugs and finish up left facing scoop to ledge and then up top wall on R. Very little pro. FA: Peter Lynch, 2012	14	Trad 12m
61	Underclung 2m R of NMB up to L undercling and up. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2012	16	Trad
62	Underclinging to a Belief Delicate start to underclings and up. FA: John Wentworth & Peter Lynch, 2012	17	Trad
63	Harmonious Discord Face and using L arete, 1m L of P. FA: Peter Lynch, John Wentworth & Isabelle Wentworth, 15 Sep 2017	15	Trad
64	Postosterone Shallow corner (boulder pictured has since been swept away) 1m L of HH. FA: Isabelle Wentworth, 15 Sep 2017	15	Trad
65	★ Hidey Holes 2m L of BN. Straight up past major pocket, finding excellent slots on the way. FA: John Wentworth & Peter Lynch, 2012	11	Trad
66	★★ Beez Neez South around the corner from Beer Battered Rock is an obvious crack 2m from the arête. A short climb with tricky moves at 4m. Has a nice top out and good protection. FA: Alan Bainbridge & Mal MacDonnell, 2005	11	Trad 10m
67	★★ Arete of Regret Up arete at start of PC. Fun arete with sensational no hands rest for those with long femurs. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2012	17	Trad
68	Pub Crawl Start at the white splattered rock a few metres right of '6 beers before midnight' and traverse left for about 17m. Follow the lowest dyke for the first half, under-cling through the small overlap on the corner (crux), and stay on low holds well below the dyke for the second section, finishing at the incut corner.	V3	Boulder
69	Retro Man A few moves of interest just 1m R of AoR. Pulled out the old spoogie boreal aces for this one. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2012	15	Trad
70	★ Jug City 1m R of RM, another Bittangabee delight. Up the jugs. FA: John Wentworth & Peter Lynch, 2012	17	Trad
71	★ 6 Beers Before Midnight Mals description to go here, problem is he had 6 Beers before Midnight and can’t remember anything. Jug Haul/Crimp/Slap Dynamically/Layback/Mantle/Smear/Scum up the easy/tricky/difficult start, follow the obvious/not so obvious line/seam/slab/crack/flake of jugs/crimps/slopers/heucos to the crux. Finish as start. FA: Mal MacDonnell & Alan Bainbridge, 2005	11	Trad
72	★★ Oi kids, come down from there! Onto the boulder, step left onto the face and head up the left side. Step up left onto the ledge and finish up the obvious corner. FA: Mark Hoggard, 2 Aug 2021	8	Trad
73	Flake Climb Flake at left end. Up steep flake, finishing up slab. FA: John Wentworth, 2009	17	Trad
74	Mark's Not Dead, He's Just Pining For The Fjords Start 3m right of the arête, head to right up crack a few metres, trend left slinging lumpy jug. Head left to arête using 1 and 1½ cams for protection. Continue up arête. FA: Dave Cameron & Richard Morley, 2005	18	Trad
75	★★★ Orange Ruffy Start as for MND. Head straight up from lumpy jug to hidden heuco. Move up and right along thin break then up small pockets to slopey mantle top out. Serious. FA: Dave Cameron & Richard Morley, 2005	22	Trad
76	Slimehead Continues up and right along the diagonal features after Orange Ruffy heads straight up. FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 28 Sep 2019		Trad
77	★ P3 2m R of Orange Ruffy. Up to letterbox slot, then line of least resistance to top, finishing left of major capstone. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2016	20	Trad
78	★★★ First Coming Unbeknownst to most people, God had a seaside holiday before heading off to create Mt Arapiles. This climb is a testament to his creative abilities. The gem of Bittangabee, steep, strenuous, and sensational. 1m R of P3. Up right-leaning diagonal, straight up to finish on splitter crack on capstones. FA: Peter Lynch, 2012	22	Trad
79	Old Baldy Prominent blank arete just R of major crack. (no pro). FA: John Wentworth, 2012	17	Trad
80	Feeble Old Man 1m R of OB, up corner weakness to the top. No pro. FA: John Wentworth, 2012	13	Boulder
81	★ Boy Flake Start below the small, right-facing flake. Up this, pass flared horizontal (small cam), and up to ledge. Couple of runners in the back, then make the big step up and left (unprotected) and cruise to finish. FA: William Wentworth, 2010	15	Trad
82	Jump Start Major crack. Jump puddle to start up crack/ramp, to ledge and then up through easiest route to finish. FA: Paul Thompson & Kobi Thompson, 2010	10	Trad
83	I Do Like to Be Beside the Seaside Blank looking face just R of JS. Delicate moves to thought provoking finish. FA: John Wentworth & Peter Lynch, 2012	17	Trad
84	Thar She Blows Start 1m R of BTSS at right-leaning flakes. Energetic face climbing up to big ledge. Set a belay and look for whales blowing (also great ledge for a bivvy if you want to stay the night). Pitch 2, straight up big pockets to top. The original belay boulder has been swept away, so belayer may require waders. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2012	19	Trad 12m, 2
85	★★ Southern Rights Absorbing face climbing on right leaning flakes, 1m R of TSB. FA: Peter Lynch & John Wentworth, 2012	18	Trad
86	★★★ Zymurgy Very bouldery start – landing is good. Up to thin horizontal slot, place 0.5 cam after you reach the next holds. Thin moves follow on equally thin gear, bloody brilliant. FA: Dave Cameron, 2005	21	Trad
87	★★★ Snake Venom Starting as for Zymurgy, climb the direct thinner line via slots and crimps to the right of the previous line and staying right of the prominent pale disc. Finish by topping out the boulder problem off the shelf and directly above. FA: Kai Seth Robertson FA: 27 Sep 2023	23	Trad
88	★★★ Dead Crab's Lament Up obvious thin cracks and pockets, 2m R of Zymurgy. Up tricky crack to large pocket and up. Originally graded 15. FA: John Wentworth, 2009	20	Trad
89	★★ Paragon Face R of DCL. Tricky, committing start leads to easier climbing to the top. Stepping out right certainly lowers the grade. FA: Andrew Myers & Peter Lynch, 2009	19	Trad
90	★ Keeping the Balance Deceptively tricky. 1m L of corner. Follow thin crack up until move right onto difficult ramp finish. FA: Peter Lynch, Brent Johnson & John Wentworth, 2010	18	Trad
91	Tarantula 2 The far-right corner — if only it was 3x as long! FA: John Wentworth, Brent Johnson & Peter Lynch, 2010	16	Trad
92	★ Adam's Problem Variously described as "Adam's one" Jump or reach up to shallow pocket. Make your way up to the top from there. Traverse left or solo to the top of the cliff once on the ledge. FA: Adam	V3	Boulder 3m
93	★ Ice Age Vision Stand start on rail underneath small diagonal rooflet. Make your way up. FA: Peter Lynch, 1906	V2	Boulder 3m
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1.20.1.1. The Upper Tier 12 routes in Sector

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -37.211325, 150.022859

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
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1	Project 1 Open project. Sit start from jugs above the puddle, reaching for the slopers above. Hard not to touch the ground. Set: Mitch Lindbeck, 2 Jul 2021		BoulderProject
2	Project 2 Open project. Sit start at the corner/arete 1m right of previous route. Set: Mitch Lindbeck, 2 Jul 2021		BoulderProject
3	Crack line Sit start at the corner crack 3m R of previous. Start with hand in the crack and pull for ledge. FA: Mitch Lindbeck, 2 Jul 2021	V0	Boulder
4	★ Hanging Crack Sit start 2m R of corner at the crack. Start with hand in crack and pull up through huecos. Beware of fall potential off the ledge. FA: Mitch Lindbeck, 2 Jul 2021	V1	Boulder
5	★ Jug and up Sit start 3m R of previous. Start with hands on jug and up passed the hueco. Beware of fall potential off the ledge. FA: Mitch Lindbeck, 2 Jul 2021	V1	Boulder
6	Project 3 - More jugs Open project. Start just R of previous. Sit start at jug under big undercling. Set: Mitch Lindbeck, 2 Jul 2021		BoulderProject
7	Project 4 - Yet more jugs Open project. Sit start 1.5m R of previous. Hands on jugs and crack up. Set: Mitch Lindbeck, 2 Jul 2021		BoulderProject
8	Project 5 - crack Open project. Easy when standing start, I just couldn't get the sit start. Start at the crack at the left end of the ledge in the corner. Set: Mitch Lindbeck, 2 Jul 2021		BoulderProject
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
9	★ Diagonal crack Sit start under the diagonal crack. Start is 2m R of the arete R of the corner with the ledge R of the previous route. FA: Mitch Lindbeck, 2 Jul 2021	V0	Boulder
10	Is it in? Sit start 2m R of previous. Start at the jug and move up to the left. V0- if you use the block for feet. Doing it without using the block would be harder. FA: Mitch Lindbeck, 2 Jul 2021	V0-	Boulder
11	Standalone Standing start between the corner and chimney R of the previous route. FA: Mitch Lindbeck, 2 Jul 2021	V0	Boulder
12	Picking the nose Sit start under the hanging arete R of the previous route. FA: Mitch Lindbeck, 2 Jul 2021	V0	Boulder

1.20.2. City Rocks 18 routes in Crag

Summary:: All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.254487, 150.014746

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
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1	Wish You Were Here The first view of the ocean from the end of the path reveals a perched boulder directly ahead close to the edge and somewhat closer than all the recorded routes further east. Down behind this perched boulder is a clean wall above a non tidal platform bounded on it's left end by a square cut corner. Wish You Were Here takes the corner without bailing out onto the ledge at just over half height. FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 10 Jul 2017	16	Trad 7m
2	★★ Storm Front Crack A strong trad line that looks much worse than it is. Locate rock wedged in tree about 2m back from edge. The crack is visible splitting the cliff edge. Rap from tree into small belay ledge 5m above swell. Stem up v-corner then over bulge. Easily up wide crack then launch up the sustained handcrack to top. FFA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2007	19	Trad 17m
3	★★★ Invasion Day Best trad line on the cliff. Thin seam splitting the orange and grey rock 10m around the left of Salty The Seal. You can see this route from the fishing ledges back at the tourist track. Locate the double BR bolts at the top of the route near the cliff edge. Thin crack to start leads into small left facing cornerette. Great gear and great climbing. Double BR belay. FFA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2007	18	Trad 19m
4	★★ Arete (project) Partially toproped (upper half only) FA: Neil Monteith, 2007	25	Trad 18m
5	★ Police Cruiser Starts at major arête, Traverse diagonally up and right across giant crystals to break through right side of big roof. Com- mitting finish up slabby runnels. FFA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007 FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007	19	Trad 20m
6	★★ Salty The Seal Good line and great climbing. The easiest way up this section of wall. Start right of the overhung wall and traverse across left on amazing quartz dyke to reach small ledge. Straight up the thin crack above to large left facing corner conclusion. FFA: Jono Schmidt & Neil Monteith, 2007	17	Trad 21m
7	★★ Crystalline Start as for Salty The Seal but go straight up to steepness (UB). Swing left and up to big undercling heuco and upwards. Big scoops and bizarre crux. Sustained. Bring some small/ medium cams and some slings for the threads above the last bolt. 4 u-bolts. FFA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2007	23	Mixed trad 18m, 4
8	★★ Barnacle Breath Tenuous pocketed crux up blank looking corner. Almost a sport route. Start 3m right of Crystalline. Wander up the nice juggy start then enter the overhung blank corner. Quickly exit right and up pockets then step back into corner. 5 U-bolts. Fist crack size cams to finish. FFA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2007	24	Mixed trad 18m, 5
9	★★ Rolling Swells A strong natural line straight up the guts of the main wall. 3m right of Barnacle Breath at undercut crack. Up crack to steep corner, stem this (RB) then up crack to juggy conclusion. Sin- gle U bolt lower-off. Don’t try and top out the grass up above. Bring a full rack. FFA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2007	21	Mixed trad 18m, 1
10	★★ Humidifier Conditions were less than ideal on the first ascent. Starts 2m right of RS. Up delicate face to under left side of big roof, monkey out this on jugs then tough lip pull to mantle onto ledge. Stem up open corner to juggy conclusion. 4 u-bolts + medium trad. FFA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007	23	Mixed trad 20m, 4
11	Possible Project Big roof. Looked at by Neil but no bolts (yet).		Trad 18m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
12	★ Skiving Sea Monkeys A big dark line, which tends to stay wet after heavy rain. Starts 2m right of major blank corner and 6m right of Humidifier. Up unlikely thin face seam (u-bolt) and onto ledge. Swing left over undercut and up left into lift shaft (UB). Stem up this shaft to top. Harder if you are short. Full rack required to #4 SLCD. FFA: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2007	21	Mixed trad 20m, 2
13	★ Performing Dolphins A bunch of Japanese tourists filmed the equipping of this route. The exposed rounded prow with bouldery gritstone start. Located 6m right of SSM. Edge up start (2 u-bolts) onto ledge. Up face above (UB) to committing finish move. Medi- um cams/wires required. FFA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007	20	Mixed trad 19m, 3
14	★★ Shark Bait RP special. Daunting line with just enough (small) gear. Starts 6m right of PD, and 2m left of major blank corner. Climb up short wall to ledge. Stem up short closed corner, step right and up to big break (#5 cam). Edge up face above (RPs and tiny cams) to finally reach a good ledge and gear. Easily to top. FFA: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2007	20	Trad 18m
15	★ Third Time Lucky Committing trad climbing split by three ledges. Starts 3m right of major corner at small right facing corner. Spaced small gear and a long reach move at about 7m. Finish up leftwards into small right facing corner flake. Take standard rack plus micro cams (Black Aliens). FFA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007	19	Trad 17m, 91
16	★★ Layback And Swim To England Sustained flakes and one of the best routes here. Continuous rain showers thwarted attempts. Starts 3m right of TTL below open book corner. Stem up this (UB) to horizontal break. Lay- back up wonderful flakes to top. FFA: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2007	18	Mixed trad 15m, 1
17	★ Sailing The Seas Of Green Sustained pod crack climbing with a bit of choss to finish. Starts 2m right of LASTE. Bouldery start to get to first UB. 3 u-bolts. Bring a standard rack to supplement bolts. FFA: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2007	22	Mixed trad 15m, 3
18	★★ Wedgewood Major trad excursion through some unlikely territory. A piece of driftwood is wedged in the horizontal halfway up this route! Starts 4m right of chimney slot, at undercut wall. Boulder through roof and then work your way up to easiest break in roof at third height. Swing left and up heucos to top. Bring cams up to #5. FFA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007	18	Trad 16m

1.20.3. Pulpit Rock 26 routes in Crag

1 2 3

1 North Side 2 South Side (Upper) 3 South Side (Lower)

Summary:: Trad climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -37.240218, 150.034984

1.20.3.1. North Side 22 routes in Sector

Summary:: Trad climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: -37.239901, 150.034942

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
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1	★★★ Traverse of the Fun Police Step across the corner to the final platform. Traverse out left around the corner and along the gutter wall above the raging sea. Gear is mostly plentiful, with runouts in a couple of spots. A memorable climb best avoided in high seas! FA: Matt Rogerson, Rick Carey & Zac Zaharias, 2004	11	Trad 20m
2	★★ Fish Fingers Central crack in the wall across the gap, overlooking the deep ocean gutter. FA: Mike Law Smith & Rick Carey, 2004	17	Trad
3	Fish-N-Shits Bridge and stretch your way up the corner, then head left under the block.	13	Trad 10m
4	Fish-N-Shits Alternate Start No existing route description. Location unknown.	16	Unknown 10m
5	Ticks and Maggots Original description: The left-hand crack of the first recessed corner. Up (ode to Bittangabee). MH: Could be same as Fish-N-Shits? Grade is too low for anything really. FA: Gary Rankin, 1991	9	Trad 10m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
6	Left Wall Down Under Arête immediately to the left of Cenotaph Corner Down Under. FA: Rick Carey & Mike Law Smith, 2004	20	Trad 10m
7	★★ Cenotaph Corner Down Under Obvious big corner with two parallel cracks up most of the central portion. FA: Rick Carey & Mike Law Smith, 2004	17	Trad 9m
8	★★ Fill My Pockets Start as for Cenotaph Corner Down Under, swing out right on large jug, clip the first bolt with the hanger then straight up using the pockets someone just put there for this climb, passing two carrots to the top. FA: Rick Carey & Mark Tonkin, 2006	21	Sport 10m, 3
9	★ White Horses Straight up the face, starting 3 meters left of Fisherman's Dunny. Begin easily on jugs past a carrot making balancey moves to gain small pockets. Trend right towards the horizontal break, then up to good holds at 2nd carrot. Finish straight up using small wires or cams for protection. FA: Rick Carey & Nathan Roberts, 2006	20	Mixed trad 10m, 2
10	Shark Bait Start as for Fisherman's Dunny, step left on break, then straight up the face past two carrots on thin holds to natural break, straight up to finish. FA: Rick Carey Rope solo, 2006	21	Mixed trad 10m, 2
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
11	★★ Fisherman's Dunny Around the back of the Guns, Germs and Steel block is a recessed bay with a very thin corner crack at the back left. Interesting technical moves past 3 badly rusted FHs, then easily up to rusty anchor brackets. FA: Rick Carey & Saul Hilton, 2005	22	Mixed trad 10m, 3
12	Hydraulic Flush The inside corner on the right-hand side of the recess, climbing the chimney behind the Guns, Germs and Steel block. Old description: 7m left of Ticks and Maggots. MH: Left? FA: Gary Rankin, Joel Rankin, Cathy Fraser & John Murphy, 1992	7	Trad 10m
13	★★ Dan Would Be Proud Short, sharp, bouldery arête on the Guns, Germs and Steel block at the mouth of the dark chasm. Has two bolts and a single bolt lower-off that looks a little rusty as of 2021... Original description: Around left from Bindun in a small dark chasm. FA: Neil Monteith, 2007	22	Sport 8m, 2
14	Guns, Germs and Steel On the large freestanding block that has broken off the main cliff line. Leftward layback up the sharp arête to flake, smearing to the top. No gear. FA: Matt Rogerson & Rick Carey, 2000	17	Top rope 8m
15	The Pull Pit / Short History of the World Towards the left end of the face is a large, left-leaning, freestanding block. Starting to the left of Fisherman's Grief, jam the flaring crack, chimney to the top, and then scramble to the terrace. The original grade was apparently 9, updated to 12 at some point. Did it in 2021 and it is more like a 15... Perhaps the block has moved a bit? FA: Gary Rankin, 1991 FA: Matt Rogerson & Rick Carey, 2004	12	Trad 8m
16	Fisherman’s Grief Leftward sloping finger crack at back-right of the embayment. FA: Mike Law Smith & Rick Carey, 2004	20	Trad 8m
17	New Balance Directly up, balancey, with nuts to protect the initial moves. Up to the hand crack, straight up to the ledge, then the top. FA: Rick Carey & Mike Law Smith, 2004	21	Trad 9m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
18	Sea Eagles Obvious left-leaning, diagonal crack to the left of Fisherman's Basket. Take big cams. FA: Matt Rogerson & Zac Zaharias, 2004	20	Trad 10m
19	Fisherman’s Basket / Wayback Layback Right of the low sloping roofs, in the middle of the main face, is a sinuous, left-leaning crack which begins on a step at the base of the cliff. Jams needed. Watch out for pythons basking on the horizontal below the top! FA: Mike Law Smith & Rick Carey, 2004	20	Trad 10m
20	Bindun Start at Fisherman's Basket but swing right onto the blocky face and up the corner to the top. Protection looks marginal... Top-rope only! FA: Gary Rankin, 1991	15	Top rope 10m
21	Sandy Hunt Open book corner capped by a small roof crux. Beware of the loose looking block on left. FA: Rick Carey, Matt Rogerson & Zac Zaharias, 2004	21 R	Trad 10m
22	Joel's Bonito Caper No existing route description. Location unknown.	16	Unknown 10m

1.20.3.2. South Side (Upper) 4 routes in Sector

Summary:: Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: -37.240263, 150.035059

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★ Wanted In Seven Countries FA: Neil	17	Trad 8m
2	★ Pet Porpoise Pool	16	Trad 9m
3	Euro Tan	16	Trad 7m
4	★ Porpoise Prow	V0	Boulder
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1.20.3.3. South Side (Lower) 0 routes in Sector

description

Another 8 metre tall wall located below the South Side (Upper).

approach

Haven't worked it out yet... Can't see any rap rings, but at least one line is bolted below.

1.21. Nadgee 3 routes in Area

1 Wonboyn

Summary:: All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.333428, 149.926410

1.21.1. Wonboyn 3 routes in Crag

1 Greenglade

Summary:: Lat / Long: -37.276280, 149.971828

1.21.1.1. Greenglade 3 routes in Crag

Summary:: All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.283246, 149.943148

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Nads Edge FA: Macciza a.k.a. Macca & Nadège	16	Trad 20m
2	Gee Nad FA: Macciza a.k.a. Macca & Nadège	15	Trad 20m
3	No Nads First route done on cliff. Due to an overly anxious leader and lack of initial game plan, seconder could not follow as rope was pulled up. Oops, my bad ... FA: Macciza a.k.a. Macca	14	Trad 20m

1.22. Narooma Fitness Centre 0 routes in Gym

description

8 Hopkins Place, Narooma, New South Wales

1.23. Wog Supercrag 1 route in Crag

1 Summer Rain buttress

Summary:: All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.053165, 149.508890

1.23.1. Summer Rain buttress 1 route in Cliff

Summary:: Lat / Long: -37.052816, 149.509135

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	Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Summer Rain Start at the large tree in the gully and go up the vegetated cracks to crack running up the centure of the butress. it has a first pitch that is contrived and not worth doing FA: Rat, 27 Jan 2021	10	Trad 20m

Route

Grade

Style

Selected ascents

★ Summer Rain

Start at the large tree in the gully and go up the vegetated cracks to crack running up the centure of the butress.

it has a first pitch that is contrived and not worth doing

FA: Rat, 27 Jan 2021

Trad 20m

1.24. Cookie Cliffs 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Mostly Top roping

Lat / Long: -36.843469, 149.804854

	Route	Grade	Style
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1	The Crumb Easy stemming or climbing up obvious middle crack FA: Marley Faulkner, 29 Dec 2022	13	Top rope 8m
2	Return of the Crumb Easy laybacking up crack on solid rock. FA: Cellestine Janiola, 29 Dec 2022	14	Top rope 8m
3	Return of the Crumb Right Start as for 'Return of the Crumb' but continue out diagonally right away from the crack on good smaller face holds. FA: Tim Hall, 29 Dec 2022	14	Top rope
4	Holding Cell Bouldery start up towards the big crack before heading left up the face for a slightly crimpy top. FA: Cellestine Janiola, 28 Dec 2022	12	Top rope 10m
5	★ Turtle Magic Start as for 'Holding Cell' but continue straight up the obvious overhanging splitter crack for some fun (if short) overhanging jams and laybacks. FA: Tim Hall, 29 Dec 2022	18	Top rope 10m
6	Changing Corners Obvious platform and open-book corner towards the right end of the crag. Stem on small gear, with small runout at finish. Helmets currently essential. FA: Mark Hoggard, 12 Feb 2023	15	Trad 9m

1.25. Bingie 89 routes in Area

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.005852, 150.160176

1.25.1. Mullimburra Point 1 route in Crag

1 2 3

1 Razor Blocks 2 Various potential 3 Pinnacles Beach

Summary:: Lat / Long: -35.993747, 150.161774

1.25.1.1. Razor Blocks 1 route in Sector

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -35.992257, 150.160247

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
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1		Lay Off Me Would Ya! Straight up the center of the wall. Sit start into the larger flake and top out on questionable holds, watch the landing. FFA: Nick Murphy, 31 Jan 2020	VB	Boulder 2m

1.25.1.2. Various potential 0 routes in Cliff

description

A few cliffs on the eastern end of the point that hold a bit of potential. Need calm seas to be able to access most though as you need to hop across gaps or swim.

Some of the Zawns may hold potential as well, would need to be rapped into and climbed out, or just done as top-rope top-belays

approach

Walk directly east of the carpark finding the track and following the tracks staying on top of the ridgeline until you get to the very end and looking down a large flat ramp that leads to several spots

history

Scouted by Nick Murphy January 2020

1.25.1.3. Pinnacles Beach 0 routes in Sector

description

Small south facing beach with potential on the western side for a few boulder problems and several very easy problems on the two pinnacles in the middle of the beach that dominate the view

approach

Walk back 50m from the eastern carpark and find the obvious track heading down the hill to the beach.

1.25.2. Grey Rocks 59 routes in Crag

3 2 1

1 Mum's Kitchen 2 Dad's BBQ 3 The Pantry

Summary:: Lat / Long: -36.003010, 150.158431

1.25.2.1. Mum's Kitchen 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.004386, 150.157235

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
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Main Wall This is the high-ball, slabby face set back from the Anzac Boulder. It is protected from the nor-east winds and most problems have sand landings. The top-outs are generally good but take care at the vegetated right end. Try to limit damage to vegetation at the top. Descend left down Cream Corner.
2	Cream Corner The internal corner at the left end of the left boulder. The best descent route for the Main Wall. FFA: Ria, 2 Oct 2021	VB	Boulder 3m
3	★ Lamington Layback The crack in the middle of the south facing wall. Dubious top-out chockstones. Take care. FFA: Dave, 2 Oct 2021	V0-	Boulder 4m
4	★ Dad's Pancakes Up the arete. FFA: Dave, 2 Oct 2021	V0-	Boulder 5m
5	★ Peanut Biscuits Left most crack on main face. FFA: Dave, 2 Oct 2021	VB+	Boulder 5m
6	★ 2 and a 1/4 Up slab between two cracks on main face. FFA: Ria, 2 Oct 2021	VB	Boulder 5m
7	★ Apricot Slice Crack in the middle of the main face. FFA: Ria, 2 Oct 2021	VB	Boulder 5m
8	★ Licking The Beater Up the stepped slab right of the central crack. FFA: Dave, 2 Oct 2021	VB	Boulder 5m
9	★ Don't Skip Your Vegies Slightly vegetated left leaning crack right of Licking The Beater. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 6 Jan	VB	Boulder 5m
10	Just One More Off-width corner at right-hand end of main face. FFA: Ria, 2 Oct 2021	VB	Boulder 4m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
Anzac Boulder This is the prominant, double tiered boulder. Descend right down the gully between Anzac Boulder and Devonshire Face.
12	★ Oat Slice Traverse right starting next to bush, just left of Vitamin Puffs. Follow head height horizontal crack / ledge with hands. Bridge gap (descenmt route) to Devonshire Face. Continue right until reaching bush, then top out. FFA: Dave, 2 Oct 2021	VB+	Boulder 7m
13	Vitamin Puffs Use face and left side of crack on south facing wall. FFA: Ria, 2 Oct 2021	VB-	Boulder 3m
14	Uncooked Chocolate Cake Use face and right side of crack on south facing wall. FFA: Ria, 2 Oct 2021	VB+	Boulder 3m
15	★★ Anzac Arete Sit start just right of arete proper, under-cling in mini cave then up arete. FFA: Dave, 2 Oct 2021	V0-	Boulder 4m
Devonshire Face This is the short, steep face to the right of the Anzac Boulder. Descend left.
17	Dry Scone The left arete of Devonshire Face, left of the deep crack (Elderberry Jam). This is to the right of the obvious descent gully. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 27 Mar	VB-	Boulder 3m
18	Elderberry Jam There are three cracks in the Devonshire Face, right of Dry Scone. This is the widest crack to the left. You may need to tape up for this one. Pretend you're in The Valley and use vertical hand jams only (the rest is off limits) to gain the mighty summit. A harder variant (project) for the massochists would be to throw a fist into the bum start. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 30 Jan	VB+	Boulder 3m
19	★★ Double Cream Good value. The double, crossed cracks right of Elderberry Jam. Sit start. No dynos. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 27 Mar	V1	Boulder 3m

1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ 27 routes in Cliff

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.003294, 150.158399

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
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Beer Slab This is a west facing slab at a higher level than the beach. It has three weaknesses, the right of which is vegetated.
2	★ Beer In Hand This is the middle of the three obvious weaknesses (the one left of the vegetation). Hands free. Topo at feet level. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 21 Jan	VB	Boulder 4m
3	★ Hold My Beer On the same slab as Beer In Hand. Start up the diagonal, vegetated crack at the right side of the slab. Pad up just left of the arete. Hands permitted. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 21 Jan	VB	Boulder 6m
Salt Bae Boulder Back at beach level there is a large, south facing boulder with vibrant orange lichen. This is the Salt Bae Boulder. It is characterised by beautiful rock and a near vertical face. The bottom of it can remain moist after high tide and seas making the problems with techical feet (like Two Minutes Turkish) significantly more difficult.
5	★ Salt Bae Start on the left side of the Salt Bae Boulder at the right-leaning crack. Traverse rightward with hands in the horizonal break. Finish up right leaning diagonal. V0 if you eliminate the obvious foot ledge in the middle. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Jan	V0-	Boulder 4m
6	★★ Two Minutes Turkish The pick of the crag. Quite the tip shredding puzzle. It links all the best bits of the Salt Bae boulder. Start as for Salt Bae, but traverse the face, from left to right, avoiding the high horizontal and right leaning break (the rest of Salt Bae) using whatever remains on the face. Finish in the welcome groove right of the boulder, or muscle up Golden Tomahawk for extra cred. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 30 Jan	V1	Boulder 4m
7	Meat Sushi What's the point? Start in the semi-detatched flake between the starts of Salt Bae and Off The Bone. Climb the flake to the diagonal and beyond. Top out in the middle of the upper boulder just to make it slightly interesting. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 30 Jan	VB+	Boulder 3m
8	Off The Bone Start in the middle of the Salt Bae boulder, with your feet on the obvious little ledge and hands on the thin side pull. Straight up, joining Salt Bae at the angled slot. The sit start (project) would make it harder and better. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 27 Jan	V0-	Boulder 3m
9	★★ Golden Tomahawk Sit start on the right side of the Salt Bae boulder. Hands in left-leaning, rounded crack, right foot on right leaning slab. Work hands up left to knob. Pop right hand to top, match and top out. A harder variant (project) would be to start with both feet on the face or in the left leaning diagonal. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 21 Jan	V0	Boulder 3m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
Low n Slow Area To the right of the Salt Bae Boulder is an angled descent gully. To the right of that there is a slabby face characterised by criss-crossing off widths. The problems are simpler than the Salt Bae Boulder, but can also suffer from damp rock at the base after high tide.
11	★ Low n Slow Start at right leaning diagonal just to the right of the Salt Bae boulder. Traverse right, feet low, through a proper hand jam and body tensioning barn-door moments. Finish up the second right leaning off-width. Tricky if moist. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Jan	V0-	Boulder 4m
12	Hot n Fast Sit start just right of Low n Slow with hands in isolated flake. Up rightward until feet gain the right leaning ramp. Follow ramp to glory. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 27 Jan	VB	Boulder 4m
13	Q n Up Sit start at the right leaning diagonal right of Hot n Fast. Strong first move, then cruise up the widest break to top. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 11 Feb	VB+	Boulder 3m
14	★ Swap n Go Right to left rising traverse with feet in the obvious left-leaning ramp to easy top-out. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Jan	VB+	Boulder 3m
Sausage Sizzle Slabs Right of the Low n Slow Area you will find the Sausage Sizzle Slabs. This is an easy and safe area for the kiddies, entry level boulderers or bare footed swimmers that want to fondle some rock. The coarse texture means that this areas is less impacted by moist rock. Most problems have sand landings, but there are a few protruding ankle breakers (depending on sand level). Some supervision may be warrented. Most problems have easy, safe top-outs (with a few exceptions noted). Descend carefully in the deep slot between Sauce Not Ketchup and Burnt Sausage, or more easily at the eastern (right) end.
16	★ Bun Smoke Long, rightward traverse across the Sausage Sizzle Slabs, from the finish of Low n Slow to the slabby corner after Do The Right Thing. Difficulty increases progressively. Perfect. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Jan	VB	Boulder 20m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
17	★ Bread n Butter The first vertical weakness right of the finish of Low n Slow. Start on rounded boulder. Good holds all the way. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 21 Jan	VB-	Boulder 3m
18	★ Salad Free Zone The face between Bread n Butter and American Mustard. Both cracks are off limits. Tenuous to start. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 27 Jan	V0-	Boulder 3m
19	American Mustard The shallow weakness a metre right of Bread n Butter. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 21 Jan	VB	Boulder 3m
20	★ Sauce Not Ketchup The deeper weakness just to the right of American Mustard. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 21 Jan	VB-	Boulder 3m
21	Next Day Breakfast The face between Sauce Not Ketchup and the descent gully. FA: Xavier Ridgley, 28 Apr	VB	Boulder 3m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
22	Burnt Sausage Kiddies confidence-builder. Right of Sauce Not Ketchup there is a deep, low-angled rift with a short pillar in the middle. This is one of many descent routes. To the right of that there is an offwidth with an obvious black leakage at the base. This is Burnt Sausage, short and overcooked but the kids won't mind. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Jan	VB-	Boulder 2m
23	Better At Bunnings Right of Burnt Sausage there are three shallow weaknesses. This is the left of the three. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 21 Jan	VB	Boulder 3m
24	No Onion The right of the three vertical weaknesses. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 21 Jan	VB	Boulder 3m
25	Baby Q Almost too easy to be a problem, but the kiddies (and oldies) will love it. The obvious left leaning diagonal right of No Onion. FA: Adrian Ridgley FA: 12 Jan	VB-	Boulder 3m
26	Join The Q Start as for Baby Q but stright up the vertical weakness rather than the diagonal. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 11 Feb	VB-	Boulder 3m
27	★ White Bread Only The vertical weakness right of Join The Q. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 21 Jan	VB-	Boulder 3m
28	Hide The Jalapeno You may want to try this one yourself before pointing the offspring at it. A bit more tenuous than most on the Sausage Sizzle Slabs. The second weakness right of the left leaning diagonal (Baby Q), with blobs of yellow lichen. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 21 Jan	VB+	Boulder 3m
29	★ Dripping Butter Desperate ... for one move ... if you're 5'8". Between Hide The Jalapeno and Stained Serviette (the two lines with yellow lichen) there is a blank section of slab. Smear up this without using the boulders in the sand or the vertical weaknesses on either side. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 11 Feb	V1	Boulder 3m
30	Stained Serviette The broken weaknes 2m right of Hide The Jalapeno. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 21 Jan	VB-	Boulder 3m
31	Do The Right Thing Just tidying up. The final vertical weakness on the right end of the Sausage Sizzle Slabs. Can be broken into two pitches. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 30 Jan	VB-	Boulder 2m

1.25.2.3. The Pantry 16 routes in Field

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.002452, 150.158921

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
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Picnic Boulder Following the approach trail (as described for The Pantry) you will come upon a small, grassy clearing. Here, on your left, you will find Picnic boulder surrounded by a flat grassy landing. The Picnic Boulder has some short, simple problems and the potential for more for those that like palm-slapping, sloping granite with minimal feet and maximum muscle.
2	Gracias On the left of the south face of Picnic Boulder. Sit start then easily up the prominant series of slots. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 11 Feb	VB	Boulder 2m
3	★★ Small Goods Strangely satisfying. Sit start as for Gracias, but move right, swapping to the thinner crack. Rock over the low right foot and palm-slap up the blankness to the right of the crack. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 19 Feb	V0+	Boulder 3m
4	★ Gingham Style Only one move, but at least it's a fun one. Sit start (or hang straight armed if you are short) off the big jug on the right of the south face of the Picnic Boulder. Right foot up and crank over it onto slab. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 19 Feb	V0-	Boulder 2m
5	Paper Plate Limp and pointless. At the left arete of the back (north) side of the Picnic Boulder there is a small attached flake. Crimp it and up. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 19 Feb	VB-	Boulder 2m
6	Paper Cup Right of Paper Plate there are two side-pulls at head height. This is the left (easier) of the two. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 19 Feb	VB-	Boulder 2m
7	Paper Straw The best of the three, but that's not saying much. Just right of Paper Cup there is another side pull. Use this and left foot on large blob. Swap feet and up. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 19 Feb	VB-	Boulder 2m
8	Spilt Chardy Start at the right arete. Rising leftward traverse with feet following the angled sloper until you feel like mantling. FA: 11 Feb FA: Adrian Ridgley, 11 Feb	VB+	Boulder 2m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
9	★ More Like A Banquet Sit start as for Gracias but traverse left across the west face. Finish up the easy, crimpy arete or, if you are still hungry, link into Spilt Chardy. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 19 Feb	VB+	Boulder 5m
Galley Boulder Galley Boulder is the tallest of the boulders in The Pantry. To find Galley Boulder, rock hop about 30m south-west from Picnic Boulder until you see it's shaded, brooding form. Galley Boulder has a 4m southern face with numerous obvious high-ball projects above a moist, uneven landing. This can cop a pounding from the seas unless conditions and tide are favourable.
11	★ Mess Plates On the left (west) face of Galley Boulder there is a prominant flake system. From a standing start, haul on the lowest jugs then layback the flakes. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 20 Feb	VB	Boulder 4m
Marble Cake Boulder To find the Marble Cake Boulder, rock hop north from Picnic Boulder to beach level. Marble Cake Boulder is the largest boulder at beach level with a smattering of orange lichen and streaks of white quartz. The prominant, easy line is Marble Cake.
13	Vanilla Frosting Vanilla Frosting is left of Marble Cake, following the quartz. A crimpy, standing start relents to simple moves on beautiful rock. FA: 11 Feb FA: Adrian Ridgley, 11 Feb	VB	Boulder 3m
14	Marble Cake The set of left leaning diagonals. Sit start with left hand on crimp below horizontal quartz and right hand in side pull. A hard first move relents to a pleasant stroll. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 11 Feb	V0-	Boulder 3m
15	Orange Whip Sit start as for Marble Cake but with both hands in the side pull. Thrutch up right to orange flake and stroll up it to top. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 29 Feb	V0	Boulder 3m
16	Spatulation The slab right of Marble Cake. Eliminate as much as you wish and it will still be simple. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 11 Feb	VB-	Boulder 3m
17	Sticky Fingers The feature right of Spatulation. Hands free. Toppo is drawn at feet level. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 29 Feb	VB	Boulder 2m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
Skillet Boulder To find Skillet Boulder, continue north from Marble Cake Boulder, along the beach to near the end of the boulder field. The problems are on the north face.
19	Crepey Crepey is just an excuse to do the last move of Skillet. Stand start on the very left of the boulder using the boulder in the sand for feet. Crimp and slap right to the finishing jug of Skillet. Top out as for Skillet. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 29 Feb	V0	Boulder 2m
20	★★ Skillet Just like a real boulder problem … only shorter. Sit start with both hands on the far right jug and left foot in the overhung corner. Grunt left to the next hold then power up left to the jug on the prow. Hook left, rock over and top out. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 29 Feb	V1	Boulder 2m

1.25.3. Bingie Bingie 29 routes in Crag

1 2

1 Bingie Point 2 Dreaming Stairs

Summary:: Lat / Long: -36.015028, 150.159800

1.25.3.1. Bingie Point 14 routes in Field

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.012588, 150.162019

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
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Hermione Boulder Southside of point, down on the beach.
2	★ Mermaid and the Chocolate Maker Start on horizontal break. Multiple ways to go, choose your adventure.	V0	Boulder
Mimosa Boulder From the Hermione Boulder, walk about 50m south-west down the beach to near the end of the boulder field. The Mimosa Boulder faces south with orange lichen and a flat rock landing.
4	★ Keft Cleft The obvious splitter hand crack. Sit start. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 20 Apr	VB	Boulder 3m
5	Befogged Bridge Bridge the corner using Keft Cleft for your left foot. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 20 Apr	VB	Boulder 3m
Batavia Boulder South side of point, just around corner from Hermione Boulder.
7	★★ Life In Beige Direct Low sit start on RHS slimper jugs (right two). Straight up.	V4	Boulder
8	★★★ Life In Beige Low sit start on RHS slimper jugs (left two). Bust leftwards to pinch then up face.	V6	Boulder
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
9	★ Wet Dream On seaside of boulder (south face). Sit start on slimpers.	V0	Boulder
10	★ Gloom In The Corner South-east corner. Sit start on slopers. Wrestle the bulge and mantle. Note that only the main boulder is in (don't dab the friendly looking small boulder).	V5	Boulder
Lady Franklin Boulder On south side of the point, further along from Batavia Boulder.
12	★ All Gloom No Doom Small overhanging face. Low sit start with right hand on good side pull and left hand pressing down on the ledge bit. Exit left or right.	V0	Boulder
Bounty Boulder Right at the end of the point.
14	★ Rum Rebellion Sit start. Up the butts on the arete (western side) off small boulder.	V1	Boulder
15	★ Self Sabotage Sit start in side pull undercling thing (eastern side). Follow crack line up face (left side, south facing).	V1	Boulder
16	★★ Breadfruit Sit start in side pull / undercling (eastern side). Head straight up blunt arete (stay on left side of it).	V2	Boulder
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
17	★ Sharks Happen Sit start on jugs in left corner of eastern face. meander up face wherever you please.	VB	Boulder
18	★ Perpetual Dum Dum Machine Start by establishing with both hands on slopey rail jug. Note that you must establish before climbing, if you use your momentum from pulling on to do the move, then you didn’t do the boulder.	V3	Boulder
19	★★ The Mystic Twig Start lying down and pull onto jugs. Up to lip. Traverse left along lip to arete, flop your body around the arete. Easy mantle. Can also mantle the lip at the start for an easier boulder, but the secrets of the twig will remain unknown.	V3	Boulder

1.25.3.2. Dreaming Stairs 15 routes in Field

Summary:: All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -36.017013, 150.157713

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
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Snore Wall This is the slabby to vertical south facing wall at the bottom of the Dreaming Track stairs. The rock quality isn't as good as most of the Bingie Bingie area so take care. There is further potential on the lichenous wall left of Don't Worry See Pappy, but this would require brushing, which may not be compatable with the cultural heritage of the area. Problems are described right to left. Toppos are generally at hand level. Descend the arete on the right to protect the vegetation.
2	One Sheep To the right hand end of Snore Wall there is a set of three weaknesses. This is the left of the three with a fragile flake at the top. Hard sit start then easily up. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr	VB	Boulder 2m
3	Two Sheep Half a metre left of One Sheep. Start with your hands in the horizontal. Straight up face avoiding the hollow flake at top. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr	VB+	Boulder 2m
4	★ Three Sheep This is the twin shallow cracks just right of the boulder in the sand. Up the cracks to awesome jug handle top-out. Sit start is VB+. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr	VB	Boulder 2m
5	Snore The deeper crack left of Three Sheep, above the boulder in sand. Sit start off boulder using the undercling knob. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr	VB	Boulder 2m
6	★ Fingering The Nose Flute The bottomless crack between the boulders in the sand. Sit start. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr	VB+	Boulder 3m
7	CPAP Smear The face with crossed weaknesses 1m left of Fingering The Nose Flute. A powerful undercling sit start relents to an easier face. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr	V0-	Boulder 3m
8	★ Don't Worry See Pappy The right leaning weakness on the lichenous face left of CPAP Smear. Undercling sit start with hands following the weakness. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr	V0	Boulder 3m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
Chock Rock South-west of Snore Wall there is a group of boulders with a massive chockstone sitting on top. This is Chock Rock. Problems are on the south side.
10	★ White Horses Start right hand side of chockstone. Sit start to hand jam. Reach over the bulging chockstone and walk feet up right ramp. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr	V0	Boulder 2m
11	★ Wild Turkeys Different. Sit start left of the chockstone, up left face via a crimp ledge. Sit rest on chockstone, face outward and reverse mantle to top. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr	VB+	Boulder 2m
Dr Dream Boulder To find Dr Dream Boulder, turn left at the base of the Dreaming Stairs and walk north around the coastline towards Bingie Point. Walk for about 200m, past the point with the cool, pink rock intrusion, to near the end of the boulder field. Alternatively, from the Bingie Bingie carpark, follow the Dreaming Stairs access description to the grassy area. Before the seat you will see a gully to the left (east). Follow any track to the beach after the gully. Dr Dream Boulder is the tallest boulder at beach level. Problems listed right to left.
13	★ The One Chance Dance The face just right of Day By Day. Hands (and elbows) free. Toppo drawn at foot level. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 20 Apr	V0	Boulder 2m
14	★ Day By Day Start on the right of the north face. Undercling layback the aesthetic, left leaning line. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr	VB-	Boulder 3m
15	★ Ballbearing Blues The middle of North face between Day By Day and Night By Night. Sit start on finger jugs then pleasant smearing. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr	VB+	Boulder 3m
16	★ Night By Night The splitter finger crack on the left side of the north face. Sit start at lower flake. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Mar	VB+	Boulder 3m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
17	★ It Begins With A Blessing The left arete of the north face. Start with both hands on lowest ledge. Mantle to establish on wall before moving either hand to the second ledge then top-out. The sit start (project) would be a whole lot harder and better. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 12 Apr	V0	Boulder 3m
18	It Ends With A Curse Open Project. The perfect splitter finger crack through rooflet on the east side of Dr Dream Boulder.		BoulderProject 3m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style	Area
VB-		Dry Scone	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.1. Mum's Kitchen
		Vitamin Puffs	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.1. Mum's Kitchen
		Baby Q	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
	★	Bread n Butter	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
		Burnt Sausage	Boulder 2m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
		Do The Right Thing	Boulder 2m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
		Join The Q	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
	★	Sauce Not Ketchup	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
		Stained Serviette	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
	★	White Bread Only	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
		Paper Cup	Boulder 2m	1.25.2.3. The Pantry
		Paper Plate	Boulder 2m	1.25.2.3. The Pantry
		Paper Straw	Boulder 2m	1.25.2.3. The Pantry
		Spatulation	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.3. The Pantry
	★	Day By Day	Boulder 3m	1.25.3.2. Dreaming Stairs
7		Hydraulic Flush	Trad 10m	1.20.3.1. North Side
VB		First is Worst	Boulder 3m	1.9.1. Pashing Dale Boulders
		Mank Crack 2.1	Boulder 3m	1.9.1. Pashing Dale Boulders
	★	Ride the Lightning	Boulder 3m	1.12.2.1. Strike Cove
	★	Jack Be Quick	Boulder 3m	1.16.1. Bunga Head
		Lay Off Me Would Ya!	Boulder 2m	1.25.1.1. Razor Blocks
	★	2 and a 1/4	Boulder 5m	1.25.2.1. Mum's Kitchen
	★	Apricot Slice	Boulder 5m	1.25.2.1. Mum's Kitchen
		Cream Corner	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.1. Mum's Kitchen
	★	Don't Skip Your Vegies	Boulder 5m	1.25.2.1. Mum's Kitchen
		Just One More	Boulder 4m	1.25.2.1. Mum's Kitchen
	★	Licking The Beater	Boulder 5m	1.25.2.1. Mum's Kitchen
		American Mustard	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
	★	Beer In Hand	Boulder 4m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
		Better At Bunnings	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
	★	Bun Smoke	Boulder 20m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
	★	Hold My Beer	Boulder 6m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
		Hot n Fast	Boulder 4m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
		Next Day Breakfast	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
		No Onion	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
		Gracias	Boulder 2m	1.25.2.3. The Pantry
	★	Mess Plates	Boulder 4m	1.25.2.3. The Pantry
		Sticky Fingers	Boulder 2m	1.25.2.3. The Pantry
		Vanilla Frosting	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.3. The Pantry
		Befogged Bridge	Boulder 3m	1.25.3.1. Bingie Point
	★	Keft Cleft	Boulder 3m	1.25.3.1. Bingie Point
	★	Sharks Happen	Boulder	1.25.3.1. Bingie Point
		One Sheep	Boulder 2m	1.25.3.2. Dreaming Stairs
		Snore	Boulder 2m	1.25.3.2. Dreaming Stairs
	★	Three Sheep	Boulder 2m	1.25.3.2. Dreaming Stairs
8		Descent gully	Trad 11m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★	Oi kids, come down from there!	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
9		Left of Centre	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★	The Middle Way	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Ticks and Maggots	Trad 10m	1.20.3.1. North Side
10		Jump Start	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★	Summer Rain	Trad 20m	1.23.1. Summer Rain buttress
11	★	6 Beers Before Midnight	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★	Beez Neez	Trad 10m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Climb the Crack, Stupid	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★	Hidey Holes	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★	Leap of Faith	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★★	Traverse of the Fun Police	Trad 20m	1.20.3.1. North Side
VB+		Elderberry Jam	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.1. Mum's Kitchen
	★	Oat Slice	Boulder 7m	1.25.2.1. Mum's Kitchen
	★	Peanut Biscuits	Boulder 5m	1.25.2.1. Mum's Kitchen
		Uncooked Chocolate Cake	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.1. Mum's Kitchen
		Hide The Jalapeno	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
		Meat Sushi	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
		Q n Up	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
	★	Swap n Go	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
	★	More Like A Banquet	Boulder 5m	1.25.2.3. The Pantry
		Spilt Chardy	Boulder 2m	1.25.2.3. The Pantry
	★	Ballbearing Blues	Boulder 3m	1.25.3.2. Dreaming Stairs
	★	Fingering The Nose Flute	Boulder 3m	1.25.3.2. Dreaming Stairs
	★	Night By Night	Boulder 3m	1.25.3.2. Dreaming Stairs
		Two Sheep	Boulder 2m	1.25.3.2. Dreaming Stairs
	★	Wild Turkeys	Boulder 2m	1.25.3.2. Dreaming Stairs
12	★	ERA	Trad 10m	1.4.2. Simone de Beauvoir
		RP Special	Trad 6m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★	The Right Path	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		The Pull Pit	Trad 8m	1.20.3.1. North Side
		Holding Cell	Top rope 10m	1.24. Cookie Cliffs
13	★★	Camel Bro	Trad 7m	1.12.1. Camel Rock Area
	★★	Black Chasm	Trad 10m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★	EBs Make it EZy	Trad 12m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Feeble Old Man	Boulder	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		KitKat	Trad 12m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Squeezed In	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Fish-N-Shits	Trad 10m	1.20.3.1. North Side
		The Crumb	Top rope 8m	1.24. Cookie Cliffs
V0-		Is it in?	Boulder	1.20.1.1. The Upper Tier
	★★	Anzac Arete	Boulder 4m	1.25.2.1. Mum's Kitchen
	★	Dad's Pancakes	Boulder 5m	1.25.2.1. Mum's Kitchen
	★	Lamington Layback	Boulder 4m	1.25.2.1. Mum's Kitchen
	★	Low n Slow	Boulder 4m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
		Off The Bone	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
	★	Salad Free Zone	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
	★	Salt Bae	Boulder 4m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
	★	Gingham Style	Boulder 2m	1.25.2.3. The Pantry
		Marble Cake	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.3. The Pantry
		CPAP Smear	Boulder 3m	1.25.3.2. Dreaming Stairs
14	★	Cracking Crocs	Trad 10m	1.3. Guerilla Bay
	★★	Horizontal Predominance	Deep water solo 30m	1.18. Wallagoot Gap
		Pooling In The Cracks	Trad 5m	1.19.1. Rockpool Faces
	★	Coffin Lots	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Coffin Slot	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Crimpy Corner	Trad 12m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Yosemite Crack	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		No Nads	Trad 20m	1.21.1.1. Greenglade
		Return of the Crumb	Top rope 8m	1.24. Cookie Cliffs
		Return of the Crumb Right	Top rope	1.24. Cookie Cliffs
15	★	Boy Flake	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Harmonious Discord	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		I Can Jump Puddles	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		I Would Give Anything Just to Be Like Him	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Not Moonlight Buttress	Trad 12m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Postosterone	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Retro Man	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★	Right Crack	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★	Shoulda, Coulda, Buddha	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★	Surprise Package	Trad 12m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Bindun	Top rope 10m	1.20.3.1. North Side
		Gee Nad	Trad 20m	1.21.1.1. Greenglade
		Changing Corners	Trad 9m	1.24. Cookie Cliffs
V0	★	Delicately	Boulder 3m	1.9.1. Pashing Dale Boulders
	★★★	Type 2 Team	Boulder 4m	1.9.1. Pashing Dale Boulders
	★	Pulling Shark Teeth	Boulder 3m	1.12.2.1. Strike Cove
	★	Horse Hoods	Boulder 2m	1.12.3.1. Hoof Boulder
		Hesitation	Boulder 3m	1.16.2.1. Cave area
	★	Whistling Pig	Boulder	1.17.2. Pig and Whistle Wall
	★	It’s hip to warm up	Boulder 3m	1.17.3. A Room with a View
	★	Don't swing	Boulder 5m	1.19.1. Rockpool Faces
		Cornflakes	Boulder 2m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
		Going for a walk	Boulder 3m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
	★	Strech Ya Legs	Boulder 2m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
	★	Strechy 2	Boulder 2m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
		The Crimp	Boulder 1m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
	★	The View	Boulder 3m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
	★★	The pull	Boulder 2m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
		The wee Flake	Boulder 2m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
		Barefoot bandit	Boulder	1.19.3. Commy Cliff
		Last Stand	Boulder 2m	1.19.3. Commy Cliff
		Laying the Foundations	Boulder 2m	1.19.3. Commy Cliff
	★	The Opposition	Boulder 2m	1.19.3. Commy Cliff
		Big Boat, Big Fish	Boulder 2m	1.19.4. The Boat Ramp
	★	You Can't Park That Here!	Boulder 2m	1.19.4. The Boat Ramp
		Crack line	Boulder	1.20.1.1. The Upper Tier
	★	Diagonal crack	Boulder	1.20.1.1. The Upper Tier
		Picking the nose	Boulder	1.20.1.1. The Upper Tier
		Standalone	Boulder	1.20.1.1. The Upper Tier
	★	Porpoise Prow	Boulder	1.20.3.2. South Side (Upper)
	★★	Golden Tomahawk	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
		Crepey	Boulder 2m	1.25.2.3. The Pantry
		Orange Whip	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.3. The Pantry
	★	All Gloom No Doom	Boulder	1.25.3.1. Bingie Point
	★	Mermaid and the Chocolate Maker	Boulder	1.25.3.1. Bingie Point
	★	Wet Dream	Boulder	1.25.3.1. Bingie Point
	★	Don't Worry See Pappy	Boulder 3m	1.25.3.2. Dreaming Stairs
	★	It Begins With A Blessing	Boulder 3m	1.25.3.2. Dreaming Stairs
	★	The One Chance Dance	Boulder 2m	1.25.3.2. Dreaming Stairs
	★	White Horses	Boulder 2m	1.25.3.2. Dreaming Stairs
16	★★★	Consumer Friendly	Trad 45m	1.8.1. Waterfall cliffs
	★	Beautiful Bridget	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Jealous Tart	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Johnny Shoot the Messenger Boy	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★	Left Crack	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★	Other Flake Line	Unknown	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★	Sunday Outing	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Tarantula 2	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Underclung	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★	Up Up and Away	Trad 10m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Wish You Were Here	Trad 7m	1.20.2. City Rocks
		Fish-N-Shits Alternate Start	Unknown 10m	1.20.3.1. North Side
		Joel's Bonito Caper	Unknown 10m	1.20.3.1. North Side
		Euro Tan	Trad 7m	1.20.3.2. South Side (Upper)
	★	Pet Porpoise Pool	Trad 9m	1.20.3.2. South Side (Upper)
		Nads Edge	Trad 20m	1.21.1.1. Greenglade
17		Brown Underpants Arete	Trad 90m, 2	1.8.1. Waterfall cliffs
	★	Pockety Pop	Trad 6m	1.19.1. Rockpool Faces
	★	A Quick Prick From Rick	Trad 12m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		All-dis and dat	Trad 6m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★	Arete of Regret	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★★	Boys Light Up	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★	Enter the Zone	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Flake Climb	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		I Do Like to Be Beside the Seaside	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★	Jug City	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Kylies Psyche	Trad 8m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Old Baldy	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★	Smashing!	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★	Stairway to Higher Places	Trad 12m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★	The Trickster	Trad 12m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Underclinging to a Belief	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★	Water Board	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★	Water Dragon	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★	Water Light	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★	Yorkshire Girls Draw Blood	Trad 12m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★★	Yosemite Corner	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★	Salty The Seal	Trad 21m	1.20.2. City Rocks
	★★	Cenotaph Corner Down Under	Trad 9m	1.20.3.1. North Side
	★★	Fish Fingers	Trad	1.20.3.1. North Side
		Guns, Germs and Steel	Top rope 8m	1.20.3.1. North Side
	★	Wanted In Seven Countries	Trad 8m	1.20.3.2. South Side (Upper)
V0+		The Social Ladder	Boulder 3m	1.5. Moruya South Head
	★★	Small Goods	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.3. The Pantry
18		Tennis Bail	Sport 8	1.19.6. The Passage
		Dystopocket	Trad 6m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Epsilon Dreaming	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Errol	Trad 10m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★	Facing an Unpalatable Truth	Trad 11m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★	Keeping the Balance	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Mark's Not Dead, He's Just Pining For The Fjords	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★	Meaning of Life	Trad 12m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★	Nose of El Capitan	Trad 6m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★	Southern Rights	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★	Third Time Looser	Trad 12m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★★	Water Torture	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★★	Invasion Day	Trad 19m	1.20.2. City Rocks
	★★	Layback And Swim To England	Mixed trad 15m, 1	1.20.2. City Rocks
	★★	Wedgewood	Trad 16m	1.20.2. City Rocks
	★	Turtle Magic	Top rope 10m	1.24. Cookie Cliffs
19		Tennis	Sport 15m, 6	1.19.6. The Passage
	★	Air of Expectancy	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★	Paragon	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★	Sedition	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Thar She Blows	Trad 12m, 2	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★	Underneath Work	Trad 11m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★	Police Cruiser	Trad 20m	1.20.2. City Rocks
	★★	Storm Front Crack	Trad 17m	1.20.2. City Rocks
	★	Third Time Lucky	Trad 17m, 91	1.20.2. City Rocks
V1	★	Its easy as 123, AM!	Boulder	1.2.1. Emily's Cave
	★	Laying Off Guerillas	Boulder 3m	1.3. Guerilla Bay
		Pocket Sized Guerillas	Boulder 3m	1.3. Guerilla Bay
		12	Boulder 4m	1.5. Moruya South Head
	★	Avoiding The Crowds	Boulder 3m	1.5. Moruya South Head
		Awkward Seat Shuffle	Boulder 2m	1.5. Moruya South Head
		Cramped and smelly	Boulder 2m	1.5. Moruya South Head
		Night Of The Screaming Opera	Boulder 3m	1.5. Moruya South Head
		Up in the Box Seat	Boulder 2m	1.5. Moruya South Head
		1.5	Boulder 2m	1.6. Whale Beach
	★	Hidden Whale	Boulder 3m	1.6. Whale Beach
	★	Whale Of A Time	Boulder 2m	1.6. Whale Beach
	★★	2 Tabs of Acid	Boulder	1.9.1. Pashing Dale Boulders
	★	Ask Questions Later	Boulder 4m	1.9.1. Pashing Dale Boulders
	★★	Tufa 1 Fun	Boulder 4m	1.9.1. Pashing Dale Boulders
	★	Sent The Proj	Boulder 2m	1.12.2.1. Strike Cove
	★	Going Horse	Boulder 2m	1.12.3.1. Hoof Boulder
	★	Surefooted Horse	Boulder 2m	1.12.3.1. Hoof Boulder
		Thar she blows	Boulder 3m	1.17.1. Whalewatchers Cave
	★	Tubular Bells	Boulder	1.17.2. Pig and Whistle Wall
	★	Cracked hips	Boulder 3m	1.17.3. A Room with a View
		Left line	Boulder 4m	1.19.1. Rockpool Faces
	★★	Push that Toe	Boulder 6m	1.19.1. Rockpool Faces
		The Big Reach	Boulder 6m	1.19.1. Rockpool Faces
	★★	The Swing	Boulder 6m	1.19.1. Rockpool Faces
	★	El Queso	Boulder 3m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
		Footy	Boulder 2m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
	★	Super Flake	Boulder 2m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
		The Tower	Boulder 3m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
	★	The hug	Boulder 3m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
		Pocket Cutter	Boulder 2m	1.19.3. Commy Cliff
	★	The Red Terror	Boulder 2m	1.19.3. Commy Cliff
	★	Slotting It In Backwards	Boulder 2m	1.19.4. The Boat Ramp
	★	Hanging Crack	Boulder	1.20.1.1. The Upper Tier
	★	Jug and up	Boulder	1.20.1.1. The Upper Tier
	★★	Double Cream	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.1. Mum's Kitchen
	★	Dripping Butter	Boulder 3m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
	★★	Two Minutes Turkish	Boulder 4m	1.25.2.2. Dad's BBQ
	★★	Skillet	Boulder 2m	1.25.2.3. The Pantry
	★	Rum Rebellion	Boulder	1.25.3.1. Bingie Point
	★	Self Sabotage	Boulder	1.25.3.1. Bingie Point
20	★	Can't hear you	Trad 75m, 3	1.8.1. Waterfall cliffs
		Boxing Day Test Piece	Top rope 35m	1.10. Gulaga East Face
	★★★	Dead Crab's Lament	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★	Flight 11	Trad 8m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Head Tripper	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★	P3	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		The Air of Inevitability	Trad 8m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★	The Universe and Everything	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★	Performing Dolphins	Mixed trad 19m, 3	1.20.2. City Rocks
	★★	Shark Bait	Trad 18m	1.20.2. City Rocks
		Fisherman’s Basket	Trad 10m	1.20.3.1. North Side
		Fisherman’s Grief	Trad 8m	1.20.3.1. North Side
		Left Wall Down Under	Trad 10m	1.20.3.1. North Side
		Sea Eagles	Trad 10m	1.20.3.1. North Side
	★	White Horses	Mixed trad 10m, 2	1.20.3.1. North Side
V2	★★	Star Wars Hat	Boulder	1.2.1. Emily's Cave
		Bloody Mary	Boulder 3m	1.3. Guerilla Bay
	★	Deep Money Pockets	Boulder 4m	1.5. Moruya South Head
		General Admission	Boulder 2m	1.5. Moruya South Head
		Horn Rimmed Opera Glasses	Boulder 3m	1.5. Moruya South Head
	★★	Kings Lounge	Boulder 4m	1.5. Moruya South Head
	★	Beached As A...	Boulder 2m	1.6. Whale Beach
	★	The Whale In The Room	Boulder 2m	1.6. Whale Beach
	★	Cames Jameron	BoulderProject 3m	1.7.1. Pandora
		Breach	Boulder 3m	1.17.1. Whalewatchers Cave
		Captain Ahab	Boulder 5m	1.17.1. Whalewatchers Cave
	★★	Don't Look down	Boulder 6m	1.19.1. Rockpool Faces
		Bloody Elephant	Boulder 3m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
	★★	Ring and Cling	Boulder 3m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
	★★	Seagull	Boulder 3m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
	★★	Spidy Spidy	Boulder 3m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
	★	Sunbake	Boulder 3m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
	★	Sunbake #2	Boulder 3m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
	★★	Terminator	Boulder 3m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
		Seaspray	Boulder 2m	1.19.5. North Head Boulders
		Tidal Traverse	Boulder 2m	1.19.5. North Head Boulders
	★	Ice Age Vision	Boulder 3m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★	Breadfruit	Boulder	1.25.3.1. Bingie Point
21	★★	Princess Leia	Trad 8m	1.4.1. Phoenix
	★★★	Hot Damm Hot	Trad 30m	1.8.2. The Summer Fun Walls
	★	Racket	Sport 15m, 7	1.19.6. The Passage
		Aiming High (Pete's Boulder Problem)	Boulder 6m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★★	Zymurgy	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★	Rolling Swells	Mixed trad 18m, 1	1.20.2. City Rocks
	★	Skiving Sea Monkeys	Mixed trad 20m, 2	1.20.2. City Rocks
	★★	Fill My Pockets	Sport 10m, 3	1.20.3.1. North Side
		New Balance	Trad 9m	1.20.3.1. North Side
		Shark Bait	Mixed trad 10m, 2	1.20.3.1. North Side
21 R		Sandy Hunt	Trad 10m	1.20.3.1. North Side
21 to 22		Black Adder	Trad 50m, 3	1.8.1. Waterfall cliffs
22	★	Candyman	Trad 12m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★★	First Coming	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★★	Orange Ruffy	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★	Sailing The Seas Of Green	Mixed trad 15m, 3	1.20.2. City Rocks
	★★	Dan Would Be Proud	Sport 8m, 2	1.20.3.1. North Side
	★★	Fisherman's Dunny	Mixed trad 10m, 3	1.20.3.1. North Side
V2 to V3		Candlestick	Boulder 3m	1.16.1. Bunga Head
V3	★★	Creepy crawly Traverse	Boulder 2m	1.1. North Durras Caves
	★	Boys Light Up	Boulder 3m	1.2.1. Emily's Cave
	★★	How ya garn	Boulder 3m	1.2.1. Emily's Cave
		Slices of Emily	Boulder 3m	1.2.1. Emily's Cave
	★★	The Greater Glider	Boulder 2m	1.2.1. Emily's Cave
		That's Cavey Baby	Boulder 3m	1.3. Guerilla Bay
	★	Scooping Caviar	Boulder 4m	1.5. Moruya South Head
	★	Whale Under Par	Boulder 2m	1.6. Whale Beach
	★★	Coma	Boulder 4m	1.9.1. Pashing Dale Boulders
		Call me Ishmael	Boulder 3m	1.17.1. Whalewatchers Cave
	★	Plutonic pocket	Boulder 6m	1.17.3.1. Surf the Shingleback
	★	Walruses	Boulder 3m	1.17.4.2. Lower Wall
	★	Can Goannas Swim?	Deep water solo 6m	1.18. Wallagoot Gap
	★★	Elephant	Boulder 3m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
	★★	Orange Juice	Boulder 3m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
	★	The Pop	Boulder 4m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
	★★	Watson's Wormhole	Boulder 3m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
	★	Adam's Problem	Boulder 3m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Pub Crawl	Boulder	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★	Perpetual Dum Dum Machine	Boulder	1.25.3.1. Bingie Point
	★★	The Mystic Twig	Boulder	1.25.3.1. Bingie Point
23	★★	Shits 6:30AM	Trad 11m	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★★	Snake Venom	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
	★★	Crystalline	Mixed trad 18m, 4	1.20.2. City Rocks
	★★	Humidifier	Mixed trad 20m, 4	1.20.2. City Rocks
V4	★★	A Big Slice of Emily	Boulder 9m	1.2.1. Emily's Cave
	★★	Better Beach Bouldering	Boulder	1.2.1. Emily's Cave
	★	I prefer the beach	Boulder 5m	1.17.1. Whalewatchers Cave
	★★	Captain Howdy	Boulder	1.17.2. Pig and Whistle Wall
	★	Morpheus	Boulder 3m	1.17.4.1. Mini Wall
	★	Beach Walk	Boulder 6m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
		The Cormorant	Boulder 2m	1.19.5. North Head Boulders
	★★	Life In Beige Direct	Boulder	1.25.3.1. Bingie Point
24	★★	Barnacle Breath	Mixed trad 18m, 5	1.20.2. City Rocks
25	★★	Arete (project)	Trad 18m	1.20.2. City Rocks
V5	★	Chowder	Boulder	1.17.1. Whalewatchers Cave
		Pocket Junkie Maze	Boulder 3m	1.17.1. Whalewatchers Cave
		Dorpheus	Boulder 3m	1.17.4.4. Hidden Wall
	★	Gravity	Boulder 2m	1.19.1. Rockpool Faces
	★	Octopussy	Boulder 3m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
		Red Fiat	Boulder 3m	1.19.2. Rockpool Boulders
	★	Gloom In The Corner	Boulder	1.25.3.1. Bingie Point
V6	★★	The White Whale	Boulder 5m	1.17.1. Whalewatchers Cave
	★★★	A Room with a View	Boulder 3m	1.17.3. A Room with a View
	★★★	Surf the Shingleback	Boulder 5m	1.17.3.1. Surf the Shingleback
	★★★	Life In Beige	Boulder	1.25.3.1. Bingie Point
V7	★	5	BoulderProject 5m	1.6. Whale Beach
?		Big and Cheesy	BoulderProject 2m	1.7.1. Pandora
	★	Cames Jameron Sit	BoulderProject	1.7.1. Pandora
		Potential 1	BoulderProject	1.7.1. Pandora
		1	Deep water solo 10m	1.8.3. DWS area
		Gerry Harvey’s Tax Return	BoulderProject 3m	1.11.2.1. Gulaga West Face
		Belly full of pudding	Deep water soloProject 3m	1.14. Brogo Dam
		Left project	Boulder	1.16.2.1. Cave area
		Right project	Boulder	1.16.2.1. Cave area
	★★	Project	Boulder 3m	1.17.4.2. Lower Wall
		Project 2	BoulderProject 3m	1.17.4.2. Lower Wall
	★	Hard line	Deep water soloProject 4m	1.18. Wallagoot Gap
		Slab line	Deep water soloProject 5m	1.18. Wallagoot Gap
		On The Rise Project	BoulderProject 2m	1.19.3. Commy Cliff
		The other undercling	BoulderProject 2m	1.19.3. Commy Cliff
		4	Boulder 2m	1.19.4. The Boat Ramp
		Route 1	SportProject 15m, 6	1.19.6. The Passage
		Route 4	SportProject 15m, 6	1.19.6. The Passage
		Slimehead	Trad	1.20.1. Bittangabee (North side of bay)
		Project 1	BoulderProject	1.20.1.1. The Upper Tier
		Project 2	BoulderProject	1.20.1.1. The Upper Tier
		Project 3 - More jugs	BoulderProject	1.20.1.1. The Upper Tier
		Project 4 - Yet more jugs	BoulderProject	1.20.1.1. The Upper Tier
		Project 5 - crack	BoulderProject	1.20.1.1. The Upper Tier
		Possible Project	Trad 18m	1.20.2. City Rocks
		It Ends With A Curse	BoulderProject 3m	1.25.3.2. Dreaming Stairs

South Coast Guide

Warning

Contributors

Table of contents

1. South Coast 396 routes in Field

1.1. North Durras Caves 1 route in Crag

1.2. Emily Miller Beach 8 routes in Crag

1.2.1. Emily's Cave 8 routes in Crag

1.3. Guerilla Bay 5 routes in Crag

1.4. Bimbimbie 2 routes in Area

1.4.1. Phoenix 1 route in Boulder

1.4.2. Simone de Beauvoir 1 route in Boulder

1.5. Moruya South Head 12 routes in Boulder

1.6. Whale Beach 7 routes in Boulder

1.7. Bodalla 4 routes in Unknown

Access: CLOSED: SACRED SITE

1.7.1. Pandora 4 routes in Boulder

1.8. Tuross gorge 6 routes in Crag

1.8.1. Waterfall cliffs 4 routes in Area

1.8.2. The Summer Fun Walls 1 route in Area

1.8.3. DWS area 1 route in Crag

1.9. Tuross Gorge Access Road 8 routes in Area

1.9.1. Pashing Dale Boulders 8 routes in Area

1.10. Gulaga East Face 1 route in Area

1.11. Tilba 1 route in Area

1.11.1. Najanuga 0 routes in Crag

1.11.2. Potential 2 1 route in Area

1.11.2.1. Gulaga West Face 1 route in Crag

1.12. Animal Docks 7 routes in Area

1.12.1. Camel Rock Area 1 route in Sector

1.12.2. Petting Pen 3 routes in Sector

1.12.2.1. Strike Cove 3 routes in Cliff

1.12.3. Horse Head Rock Area 3 routes in Sector

1.12.3.1. Hoof Boulder 3 routes in Boulder

1.13. Birthday Bluffs 0 routes in Crag

1.14. Brogo Dam 1 route in Area

1.15. Biamanga Pools 0 routes in Area

1.16. Mimosa Rocks National Park 5 routes in Area

1.16.1. Bunga Head 2 routes in Unknown

1.16.2. Bengunnu Point 3 routes in Unknown

1.16.2.1. Cave area 3 routes in Field

1.17. Tathra 21 routes in Area