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North Side

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Description

The main wall is 8-12 metres tall and faces north. As approached from below, it begins on the right with a pocketed, clean, sandstone wall with limited pro and dirty exits. The central section is best, with steep walls, shallow corners, and sinuous left-leaning cracks with overhanging roofs. Around to the left are large blocky faces alternating with mostly vertical, 90-degree corners. Because the back corners are sheltered, people often use them for relief of body-functions. Unless the platform is clean from storm waves, approach this area from upwind with caution.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Pulpit Rock

Access to Ben Boyd NP is $8 per vehicle per day. Drive to Pulpit Rock car park. The last couple of kilometres of dirt track has some major potholes and drainage ditches - doesn't require 4WD, but decent clearance.

Approach

Descend the steps from the parking lookout and head down and right across the platform.

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Step across the corner to the final platform. Traverse out left around the corner and along the gutter wall above the raging sea. Gear is mostly plentiful, with runouts in a couple of spots. A memorable climb best avoided in high seas!

FA: Matt Rogerson, Rick Carey & Zac Zaharias, 2004

Central crack in the wall across the gap, overlooking the deep ocean gutter.

FA: Mike Law Smith & Rick Carey, 2004

Bridge and stretch your way up the corner, then head left under the block.

No existing route description. Location unknown.

Original description: The left-hand crack of the first recessed corner. Up (ode to Bittangabee). MH: Could be same as Fish-N-Shits? Grade is too low for anything really.

FA: Gary Rankin, 1991

Arête immediately to the left of Cenotaph Corner Down Under.

FA: Rick Carey & Mike Law Smith, 2004

Obvious big corner with two parallel cracks up most of the central portion.

FA: Rick Carey & Mike Law Smith, 2004

Start as for Cenotaph Corner Down Under, swing out right on large jug, clip the first bolt with the hanger then straight up using the pockets someone just put there for this climb, passing two carrots to the top.

FA: Rick Carey & Mark Tonkin, 2006

Straight up the face, starting 3 meters left of Fisherman's Dunny. Begin easily on jugs past a carrot making balancey moves to gain small pockets. Trend right towards the horizontal break, then up to good holds at 2nd carrot. Finish straight up using small wires or cams for protection.

FA: Rick Carey & Nathan Roberts, 2006

Start as for Fisherman's Dunny, step left on break, then straight up the face past two carrots on thin holds to natural break, straight up to finish.

FA: Rick Carey Rope solo, 2006

Around the back of the Guns, Germs and Steel block is a recessed bay with a very thin corner crack at the back left. Interesting technical moves past 3 badly rusted FHs, then easily up to rusty anchor brackets.

FA: Rick Carey & Saul Hilton, 2005

The inside corner on the right-hand side of the recess, climbing the chimney behind the Guns, Germs and Steel block.

Old description: 7m left of Ticks and Maggots. MH: Left?

FA: Gary Rankin, Joel Rankin, Cathy Fraser & John Murphy, 1992

Short, sharp, bouldery arête on the Guns, Germs and Steel block at the mouth of the dark chasm. Has two bolts and a single bolt lower-off that looks a little rusty as of 2021...

Original description: Around left from Bindun in a small dark chasm.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

On the large freestanding block that has broken off the main cliff line. Leftward layback up the sharp arête to flake, smearing to the top. No gear.

FA: Matt Rogerson & Rick Carey, 2000

Towards the left end of the face is a large, left-leaning, freestanding block. Starting to the left of Fisherman's Grief, jam the flaring crack, chimney to the top, and then scramble to the terrace. The original grade was apparently 9, updated to 12 at some point. Did it in 2021 and it is more like a 15... Perhaps the block has moved a bit?

FA: Gary Rankin, 1991

FA: Matt Rogerson & Rick Carey, 2004

Leftward sloping finger crack at back-right of the embayment.

FA: Mike Law Smith & Rick Carey, 2004

Directly up, balancey, with nuts to protect the initial moves. Up to the hand crack, straight up to the ledge, then the top.

FA: Rick Carey & Mike Law Smith, 2004

Obvious left-leaning, diagonal crack to the left of Fisherman's Basket. Take big cams.

FA: Matt Rogerson & Zac Zaharias, 2004

Right of the low sloping roofs, in the middle of the main face, is a sinuous, left-leaning crack which begins on a step at the base of the cliff. Jams needed. Watch out for pythons basking on the horizontal below the top!

FA: Mike Law Smith & Rick Carey, 2004

Start at Fisherman's Basket but swing right onto the blocky face and up the corner to the top. Protection looks marginal... Top-rope only!

FA: Gary Rankin, 1991

Open book corner capped by a small roof crux. Beware of the loose looking block on left.

FA: Rick Carey, Matt Rogerson & Zac Zaharias, 2004

No existing route description. Location unknown.

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Sun 30 Apr
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