Routes in Wakehurst Parkway Steep Side

Left route on wall 20m L of Pocket Direct, easiest route at the crag?

Right route of wall 20m L of Pocket Direct. Thin start

Start 2m L of Blogg's Eliminate, straight up to clip last bolt of Jeff's Easy Sandbag.

STart as for Bloggs Eliminate and step left after start.

Start 28m left of the track. Through bulge and up, originally done solo with a long-gone tree for aid but now clipping bolts through the bulge

Pumpy fun, start up Yawning Yowie and keep traversing left (Massive hidden pockets!) and layback up left edge of cave. Drop a grade or 2 if you get into the cave.

STart in small orange groove 6m L of Ready Set Go, 15m L of Flack, and 30m L of where the track hits the cliff. Hard move to start then up arete.

Corners.

Start: 10 right of previous or 18m left of track.

21, every move! Wall left of PL/LD. Either boulder start on pockets , or easier (19?) bridge up corner to break.

Good looking face but looks harder than 22. Start: 2m L of Flack and stay right (following bolt direction). Shared lower off with Flack.

Nice warm up, 3 U's and a lower-off

Start: 8m right again or 10m left of track. Initialled.

A nice little finger/hand crack running up, near the corner next to F, up to ledge then over roof to top out.

Seams 8 m R of Flack, just left of where the track hits the cliff. Layback up and finish out L

Start: Obvious crack when coming up the track. usually wet.

Flakes a few meters R of where the track hits the cliff. Up flakes and right to extension up wall. Marked FG

Start: 5m right again. Has bolts!

Start: 15m right of the track. Diagonally left to arete.

Start: As for Apyla but straight up (rebolted 2018).

Start: Corner!

Start: as for KK but right and up wall past bolts.

Exposed roof swinging on good jugs. Start in orange rock 15m R of Areeba. Right side of cave and traverse L along lip. Easiest to lean right and set up lower off from rings on top of right-hand route (Jeff's Wall)

Fun wall, start as for Airtime Traverse and straight up

Straight up over bulge and up layback seam. (Batman start if wet). New bolt has tag but is set. Start: 1m left of JM initials

The obvious crack. Traverse in from the left to get to the start.

Step right and up through scoop and wall (The spike is a bit drummy, was once a sling runner, keep the belayer away from under it) (Batman start if it's wet). High clip and step around right on hidden holds, up slab to high double Ubolt anchor. Start: At the JM initials (which isn't where JM starts). PS, this isn't as good as the Unfair Dismissal at the Narrabeen Slabs

A variety of cool moves, extra Ubolt recently added below roof. Dyno the start and head up. Start: 15m right of JM.

Campus up undercut as for Ms Wilkins head up and right under big roof and finish up Technorabble.

It goes to the second last bolt before Technorabble at grade 24/25.

OPEN PROJECT

Punchy! Steep iron cross move left followed by big cranks, original start hold has exploded so either big dyno or start to the right. Follow bolts to anchor (rebolted 2018). 3rd bolt is in a scoop and biners sit funny, extend if you're paranoid. Note that the 23 version of this heads left around the bulge, throwing for the sloper in the back of the slot.

Ziggy Samways

As for Technorabble, but avoids the crux by moving right, you can clip the 4th bolt from the jugs, then up and traverse L to 5th bolt and up.

Start: Corner.

Classic pocket pulling, all U's

Start: Smooth black wall 2m right of the corner. Bolts.

This shares the same start up and around the roof as Slap & Tickle, including campussing up on 'unique' holds. Then head straight up the mega yellow streak with fortitude. The original guide said something like 'a full grade harder than S+T', so it's probably 25. Note with interest the orignal grades of these were 21 & 23! An extra bolt was added to the headwall in 2018. One of the finest routes at Narrabeen steeps.

Up and right, right to arete and up. Start: As for Image Intensifier. 3 extra bolts now!

Start: 4m right of Slap and Tickle. Extra bolts!

Start: Right of Pickaxe. Extra bolt!

Big roof. Start: Original (easier!) route went up corner (clip first 2 rings of Closeau's Edge) then left to big jug, clip carrot and leap left into roof. New direct start: go up Relax to ledge then right and up to join Original roof, harder All Ubolts now. Wild finish.

Start: Corner/Crack.

Wall right of Relax etc. Start in corner and out right, hard rock-over. lean left to clip anchors.

Mmmn!

Up ladder then left through roof and up red wall past huge eye bolts (Galv 12 mm Petzl Collinex?). Lower-off on slab!

One of the best routes in Sydney!Are you ready to get your tilt on? New bolts (1994). Start, up log (as for SSS) then rightwards (put sling through 2nd bolt to avoid leverage on biner) and through roof

climb blankness R of Tilt. Clip Ubolt on ledge before lurching out into space. Rebolted 2018.

Do this!

Start: 3m right of Tilt.

Start in big jug under lip as for Full Tilt then right past slots

Start: As for W&TS then right into SP.

The direct start to "Septic Penguins"

Start Up Septic Penguins and head diagonally left into Full Tilt.

Start: Right end of the cliff, left of crack. Obvious. Either rap from anchor at the back of the ledge, lower from base of Arete on R (Hectic Penguins). Should continue up Hectic Penguins for the full line.

Arete above septic penguins.Funky and bouldery.

Cool crack on polished rock. Start 1m R of Septic Penguins, up thin crack to ledge and left to rap anchor. There's a 24 roof sitdown boulder problem through the roof also.

Start: Start up Crack Man Fever, step right and up next crack (bolt in easy chossy bit) to a hard finish.

Delicious pocket pulling up top. Orange wall above 15m up and right of Septic Penguins. Boulder start and through roof to hard finish, slap right to anchor. Rebolted 2018

Layback seam 5m Right of Pat the Pig. Best to stick clip 1st bolt. Hidden layback way left on slab. Go far right on top wall to big pockets.

Thin seam 4m R of Roger the Rabbit with a funky finish.

About 25m R of Roger the Rabbit, left of a south facing corner. Up on slopes and through roof to crimpy crux.