Routes in The Town Cliffs

Up the featured wall 4 metres left of Anthrax Ripple. Beautiful rock and quite tricky and sustained to DRB LO. Great climbing.

Climb the corner crack, which widens as you go. Can be a bit wet at the bottom in winter but this can be avoided. Take big gear!

Start: The first obvious line in the corner. The crack widens and extends into the top of the cliff.

Up the glassy wall stopping at the grey crud

Straight up the steepish wall 4 metres right of the corner 'Stairway to Punchbowl'

The route to climb when you rap in to find Snapper soaking wet.

Start on the arete four metres left of Snapper, climb to obvious break (needs big gear to protect) move right one metre to vertical cracks. Climb to big ledge, then find the vertical hand crack to finish.

Start 3 metres left of the perpetually wet Snapper corner thing. Up the super hard red rock via pockets and mega jugs to DB LO

Up the feisty wall 2 metres right of Snapper to LO's on ledge

Start 2m right of the Plunge Pool Project. Up perfect rock with a seductive but tricky start. Finish up on ledge to high LO's

Start 2m right of Reversibility. Up steepish, reachy wall on perfect rock to LO's on high ledge.

Rap in climb out route - can not be approached from the standard approach ledge. A major bottomless line located 40m left of the Cry Freedom corner. Bushbash in to cliff edge and rap down to last small ledge (3m above the roof). Climb the wall to end of roof (better) or the corner an dtraverse under the rood (easier). Then cracks and ledges to the top.

10m left of Cry Freedom at major break in the roof. Was originally climbed by rapping in to a belay above the choss start - then later freed from the ground (and renamed Lithium Seizure). Once past this crud start the climb goes up a thin crack on good rock.

King sport line of the crag. Up the stunning face on the left side of Cry Freedom's corner. The very last move is three stars on its own. Stick clip high first bolt. Hold on tight! Some of the bolt positions are right of where you actually climb - grade very much depends on how contrived/direct you want to make it.

Exposed and exciting - slightly dumbed down now by the new bolts on Talk the Talk. 1. 20m Climb the corner of Cry Freedom for about 10m to small pillar. Traverse left across wall (crossing Talk the Talk whilst ignoiring it's bolts) to arete and up thin seam to belay ledge.

1. 20m Right off the ledge and up arete on white rock to broken easier terrain and topout.

Landmark right facing corner with bolted routes up the faces on either side of it. The corner is mostly fused.

1. 20m (21) Usual choss mantle to start, then up the corner with a hidden bolt in the fused hard bit at the top (bolt is unknown condition - not found on rap inspection in 2023!). Belay at double rings on left end of large ledge.

2. Easy corner that splits the small upper ledge - just right of Pocket Lottery. Top out way above the anchors of all the short sport routes.

A bold black "slab". Mantle start as for Cry Freedom, then climb the black streaked wall about 4m out from the corner to small ledges below the top. Clip old carrot (or new rings) and mantle onto the Upper Ledge. The upper part of this route appears to be shared (and retrobolted) by the more recent sport route Sofa King.

Fantastic sustained face climbing up the black streaks right of Cry Freedom. Stickclip very high first bolt. Top moves are shared with In Terror Veritas. Can be used as an access pitch to the Upper Ledge if you top out and belay on rings above Cry Freedom pitch 1.

Start 1m right of Sofa King. Bring a couple of medium-sized cams (#1-4), Mostly rings. Appears to share at least the bottom half of pitch 1 of Zambesi.

Old and once bold. The lower half of the first pitch appears to be shared & retrobolted by Lazy Boi. Starts 1m right of Sofa King.

1. 20m (17) Choss mantle then up onto small ramp (2 retrobolts) to the centre of the wall. Up, then left and up black rock to finish just right of big block on ledge.

2. 15m (19) "Leave this to the experts" - 2001 guide - sounds bold! Boulder up jugs on the slight nose (right of Sober), then right and into alcove. Up the left side of this to ledge, then right and up the orange groove to finish.

From anchors above Cry Freedom trend left and upwards to exciting shared finish with Talk the Talk.

Climbs the brilliant looking black streak up high via some hard moves.

Lovely technical climbing up great orange rock. The shallow crux pockets seem unlikely - but the low angle of this wall makes it feasible.

Just right of the corner of Cry Freedom pitch 2. Great sustained climbing between breaks and sidepulls.

Starts 2m right of Glen 20. Climbs up through the lovely rock. Stay on the face at the end for an exciting finish!

Harder than it should be... or much easier if you take the blinkers off. 2m right of Rosetta Stoned. Loads of bolts at the crux to keep you safe. Climb direct at 24+ - or use the obvious holds on the right for a nice grade 21.

Shared first couple of bolts with 17 My Arse then left and up centre of orange face on nice slimps.

Bolted face just left of Mombassa's corner crack. Rick says its 20 but Alec is not convinced. Fun moves on great rock. Stick-clip first bolt or break a leg - you decide.

Shallow corner crack sprouting vegetation about 15m right of Zambesi.

1. 15m Up crack to Upper Ledge (trad belay).

2. 15m Directly up stepped buttress ("interesting" according to 2001 guidebook).

Brittle flake crack just right of Mombassa. The bottom 6m is shared with the newer bolted Dettol.

1. 15m Flake until you can move right onto ledge belay.

2. 15m Up the twin cracks in the corner.

Slabby sport route just right of Man-Of-War flake with an an exciting mantle. The easiest climb to access the top ledge - higher belay bolts roughly 3 mtrs back from ledge.

Starts 3m right of Man-Of-War flake. Nice low angle techo moves. Appears to retro bolt the bottom half of Solveig pitch 1.

Bottom pitch appears to be mostly retro-bolted by Southbound and Hey Dude - so unless you ignore these bolts this is actually more like a sport route not a trad route. Starts 3m right of Man-Of-War flake.

1. 20m (14). Pull up onto the wall and climb the diagonal slab rightwards over the top of Nuts on Top seam. Move up onto the ledge to the right below the wide corner.

2. The wide corner to the blocky ledge. Finish up nasty wide corner on the left as for Nuts on Top, or directly up the middle of the red wall above the ledge (grade 18)

3m right of Southbound. Named after Ricky told Simon he was putting his designer sunnies on a rock. Simon promptly sat on them and destroyed them.

Starts directly in front of large block with ringbolt on top (?) at an easy angled seam crack.

1. 20m Up the crack, left to cross Solveig, and and belay on ledge below crack.

2. 15m (crux) Up the obvious jam crack to the ledge, then traverse out left and up through the dirt. Old rap bolt at top.

Spooky looking reverse C shaped crack - about 20m right of Nuts on Top. Finishes on halfway ledge below Under Armpit Smell.

Should win an award for worst route name? Impressive looking wall directly above Redfish Bluefish. 30 year old bolts are probably totally unusable - they look very rusty from below. 2001 guide says the top belay is off shrubs - yikes! Looks like a contender for a rebolt. Ignore the stars until it gets a makeover.

Subtle shallow left facing corner 5m right of Redfish Bluefish. Start as for that route and traverse right onto a small ledge below a seam. Cram in some gear when you can - then launch up the seam above with spaced gear. Belay on halfway ledge below Grease MOnkey.

The wall above The Second Secret. Up past 2 and 2.5 friend and 3 (old) bolts with hard moves past the 2nd bolt. Take large wires. Double bolt belay.

Ringbolted flake crack feature that seems to not quite be finished yet - bail biners on single bolts up high. Does anyone know if this project open or closed? Bolted in 2020.

Up the centre of the slab. Following the crack in the middle trending left about half way up the wall with a bouldery two move traverse right finish. Either top out and build an anchor (bit if a bush bash) or down climb to retrieve your gear.

Straight up on the jugs until the ledge below the bushes

Full traverse of the left-hand side of the ravine. Only tricky section is crossing the cave-let about halfway along.

Either traverse back or you can scramble over the collapsed sea boulders and walk around.

Full traverse of the right-hand side of the ravine. Best at low tide, stay down low for slightly more sustained climbing.

To exit either traverse or swim back.

Straight up on the good jugs a few metres before the end of Ursies.