Routes in South Australia

Same line as Windy Jugs but bust straight to big arret jug without using intermediate move.

Start on underclings. Head up and out over bulge.

Sit start on far right hand side. Treverse left at mid height till you get past roof and onto easier section. Try to keep feet high using heel hooks rather than the back wall.

The main diagonal crack on the wall L of Midnight Sun. If the start is wet, climb a crack parallel to and just R of the main line to a stance at 5m. Gain the crack proper and follow it all the way.

The steep corner at the L end of the wall to a pleasant wide crack and direct finish. Puts value back in the grade.

Start R of Midnight Sun but make a rising traverse R to overlaps. Continue up to the thin crack 3m R of Midnight Sun.

Begin 10m R of Midnight Sun, just L of a square cut block. Take the crack to the roof and pull through on the R to a stance. Step R and follow the L leaning flared crack to easier ground.

Start 2m L of Lamplighter. Up the twin cracks and continue in line to the short crooked jam crack.Step R, move up then L along the ramp a bit and finish up the vague crack,

Glissading Penguins into Pavements from Shanghai. From above the tiny corner at the end of the ramp, climb diagonally R via a vegetated ledge to finish up a V corner.

Up Lamplighter 's corner then L along the ramp to finish as for Thunder Road.

The R facing corner in the middle of the wall. When it ends, step R and continue up the narrow crack. Finish with care up R across vegetated ledges.

Start at the niche 7m R of Lamplighter and climb the L leaning crack to a ledge. Move L and finish up the slanting cracks.

The parallel cracks 2m R of Fush and Chups to a ledge. Continue up the L crack.

The L arete.

Begin 15m R of Ugly and follow the flaring crack past the main horizontal. Continue as you like.

The R facing corner then the shallow L facing corner to a ledge. Straight up to finish at two boulders.

The wall between Terina Spa Water and Solo Orange.

The R leading diagonal beginning 3m R ofnTerina Spa Water to cross Solo Orange at the diamond shaped boulder. Step R and head up.

A bouldery start 3m R of Passiona, then tackle the deep L leaning crack.

Start as for Solo Orange, then the wall between Passiona and Solo Lemon. Move L around overhang, taking note that it consists of suspended avalanche debris.

Also starts as for Solo Orange but move up R to gain the obvious flake system.

The left most jam crack, easy start gets tougher as you get higher.

Start at half height on the detached boulder. Take the wide crack to a roof then continue up Right to a tongue of rock. Traverse around left under the second roof to an eerie finish.

A spicy but fun combination of off width and jamming. Pitch 1, 10m. (11) Easy chimney followed by a short corner crack onto large ledge. Pitch2, 10m (18) A short offwidth battle leads to glorious jamming either side of a giant baguette, join Pericles top out via diagonal undercling crack.

If weather and sea conditions look dicy, rap to the ledge at the start of the second pitch.

Start at the left end of Bumblies, Follow the vertical crack crack to ledge and then follow the Left diagonal crack to Peace and Dubs's second roof. Undercling the right leaning crack to finish.

Tastey offwidth thrutchiness Start as Pericles for 3 meters, step right at the ledge and continue groveling up the offwidth to the top. Highly recommend a #5 cam or two

Start on a small ledge 2 metres right of the start of Periwinkle pirouette’s offwidth section. Head up and right to reach the crux at an offwidth section then to fun double jam cracks, top out at the Boulder.

Solo traverse along the rising horizontal crack along the bottom of the cliff.

The narrow chimney 2m left of Periscope. Start behind large boulder at high tide mark and climb through side pulls to first ledge. Pull up through a short corner then continue easily up a bare protrusion to the left of large scooped block that leads to a crevice where the sun don't shine. Exit chimney to left side of rooflet and continue straight up along vertical crack to reach the penultimate ledge and easy climbing to the top.

Not that spicy. Start 2m right of Perineum and follow Periscope but move left after the big scooped block to climb Perineum's dank chimney. Take care to avoid loose cling-ons. Exit to right of rooflet to rejoin Periscope for the last few metres.

Straight up to small ledge then Weave up the chimney to easier climbing at the top.

Located on faces below the main Easter island wall. Climb up the large flake to a small ledge.

From the cave R of Easter Egg, climb 5m L almost to the pointy block. Up the main crack to the horizontal then the wide crack on the R to the top.

The easiest way up from the ledge. Start on the far left of the ledge and follow the the easy line up and slightly right to the top.

A fun crack climb with some slab challenges. Start up the hand sized crack to reach the large ledge and up the spicy finger crack slab to an easy finish.

The shorter version of Fish Fingers from the large ledge for when the tide or swell makes it unsafe to start from the bottom.

The corner crack between the two main walls. Fun vertical climbing that eases off toward the top into more positive and slightly slabby. Trust your feet, the granite is grippy.

The shorter version of Reggae Shark from the ledge up, for when the tide and swell make it unsafe to start from the bottom.

The monster offwidth crack that dominate the west facing wall. Excellent hand jams lead to fun 3D climbing until halfway where it turns into a pure offwidth struggle. Wrestle with the beast that tries to drag you back down!

The exit route from the top of the pillar. Follow the RH prominent crack up into the fun off width finish.

The corner crack up the sea pillar. Rap down to the small ledge then climb up the easy corner to the top. enjoy the scenery as you go.

The alternate way up the pillar. Start as for Mermaid's pool but then follow the diagonal break to the arete and back in.

The most commanding line on the stunning wall.

Rappel down to a small ledge 5 metres above the water, with redirects as required. The belay ledge stays miraculously dry even with a big swell due to the shape of the rock below. Epic position. Bomber gear anchor. Climb gains a star for the belay alone!

Fun, easy corner jamming to ledge on the left, followed by more challenging jamming, bridging and face climbing up the diagonal crack system. 4m from the top take the RH vertical line up to the large top out ledge. (The wider diagonal continuation LH finish may be worthwhile?)

Standard double rack with cams up to BD#4 adequate.

Feel the exposure. Walk out on the narrow black ledge and then up the thin crack until you reach the quartz seam. Follow the good sized crack up to the ledge and top out using the bulgy flake.

Mega exposure alert. Start as for Walk the plank but once you reach the quartz seam start the no hands traverse left along the rough quartz. Once you reach the ledge on the other side make your way up the dark grey hourglass shaped flake moving up left under a rooflet to gain a small ledge. Too out either up the crack or horizontal breaks to the right.

Start as for Walk the Plank until thin verticle seam 1m before the end of the ledge. Straight up the path of least resistance until a large horizontal break. Up the close seam 1m right of WTP flake. .2 cam at top of the seam to protect slopey top out.

Start up the left most wide crack before the Walk the plank ledge, Gain the arete and scramble up to the top.

The large blocky crack up the black lower face. Nice start. couple awkward moves off ledge, one bolt in the middle as the pro is poor. Clip 2nd bolt and commit using slopers to mantle up.

Fist crack start up to ledge. Powerful underclings and into the offwidth. Stem the corner or climb offwidth style

Left side of big roof. Left of the two fist cracks. fists fists fists layback bodyjam slopy mantle. Double bolt anchor easily accesable with a short scramble down from above roof. .

Right of the two fist cracks same grade as left

Right side of big roof. Thin layback crack up to mini undercling crack. Up to obvious ledge. Step off ledge onto roof face and up to double bolt anchor

Up the large crack and scrable fun climbing up to top of cliff. Natural anchor.

Up large lightening bolt crack and scramble up to top of cliff. Natural anchor

Start might be wet. start climbing the blocks and up leftish, Avoid the first big block wedged in the crack. Easy climbing up to a corner and then aim for the short but epic hand crack. Easy climbing up to doublt bolt anchor. Lots of slopey mantles

Layback the big crack and mantle . Beware of the potencial loose rock at the top of the right side of the crack. One piece has come off leaving a jug but maybe the rest could come off as well.

Offwitch style instead of layback. Climbed originally with a 5 only.

Start up the big crack. Traverse left with jams or along the slopey rail. Up final hand crack. Good value for a short climb!

Offwidth boulder to the right of Better with a 6.

6m. Lead with a 6. Grade 6(?)

Start in the corner crack to the L of Everything is 19. Climb to half height, then take either/both of the twin cracks to the top.

Scramble down from Better with a 6, then short rappel or down climb onto massive ledge. Alternatively rap from top of climb.

Climb easy hand crack with flake on the R, to half height. Traverse R 1m on cool crystal vein to gain access to the fun overhanging crack, up this to top.

Take the direct line under the top crack. Interesting start that’s a bit better than it looks.

Amazing overhung flake. Rappel down through the little window to a big ledge. Hard high Undercling start with no feet. Fight your way up the first section to the big jug. Blind cam placements first 3ms. Origionally climbed with preplaced cams at the start. Up pumpy jugs to the top

Sit start in prominent crack and head straight up and top out.

Stand start a the base of the slab, just left of the step up. Follow the seam up and right until you reach the crack and top out as for "He'll Be Proud"

Warmup to the left of the anvil, stand start and mantle over

Sit Start at base of the arete. Head straight up to a slabby top out.

obvious blocky ledge layback up to less obvious top out

towards the sea from the anvil boulder, to the right of layback warmup. stand start on left arete with right on side pull and step up.

Start on big horizontal seam and head up slab on different features over the face.

Sit Start in a more awkward start than its easier counterpart. Head straight up the vertical crack to a slabby finish.

Sit start in vertical crack and head straight up and top out.

Stand start right of the "right crack" in horizontal crack. Venture left following the horizontal crack until you meet the "wrong crack" and finish up this.

Stand Start in vertical crack head straight up via good undercling to a big platform and top out.

Stand Stard as for "Take a Break" but head right and up the weakness. Grade prediction V4

Stand start with good LH sloper and RH on arete. Head straight up the weakness to top out.

Sit start in big vertical crack left of "Noot Noot". Follow it straight up to top out.

Sit Start on good left hand side pull, head straight up face to top out.

Stand Start on big jug in weakness and head straight up slab to top out to a view of the boulder field.

Start with hands and feet in the 2 cracks. Compress or jam your way up the parallel cracks to top out.

Step up into a match on the undercling before shuffling left to the cracks of "Sea Mist Squeeze" and top out for that line.

One of the best climbs of my life. Simply brilliant, and the only line on the outer right wall of the cave that could be done without crushing the plants. Climbing this was a real treat