Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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22 | ★★ The Oubliette - with Ashley Felton | 15m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Jan 2015 | |||
Nervy start, then a delicate mantle, then a tricky, pumpy crux. Might even be worth another star, though it would be better if the birds could find somewhere else to crap.
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18 | ★★ Boulder Dash | 16m | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Tue 23rd Sep 2014 | |||
Good pro, good climbing, it even has a good belay stance
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17 | ★ Centrepiece | 20m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | Average | Sat 7th Jun 2014 | |||
Thin through the middle section. Ok warm up.
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15 16 | ★ Ant Attack | 24m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | Average | Fri 27th Dec 2013 | |||
16 | ★ Ant Nation | 27m | Statham's Quarry | Average | Fri 27th Dec 2013 | |||
Difficult to like.
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17 | ★ Striding Edge | 25m | Statham's Quarry | Average | Sat 7th Jun 2014 | |||
Not just trad anymore, 2 rings and 2 bolts to loweroffs so take a couple of bolt plates. Runout at the top, but the climbing there is secure.
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17 | ★ Striding Edge Direct | 25m | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 16th Jul 2014 | |||
A nice trad practice route, tolerably well protected with a mix of small and medium nuts and cams.
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16 | ★ Cornflake - with Ashley Felton | 13m | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
Pleasant. Pity it's so short.
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14 | ★ The Spine - with Liz | 25m, 3 | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Tue 5th May 2015 | |||
Step back in time to quarry climbing in the '60s - felt more like a 16 to me.
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23 | ★ Agent de France - with Joe Hewitt | 18m, 4 | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Sat 15th Aug 2015 | |||
A likable and well protected climb with a couple of cool moves, maybe a little soft for the grade.
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22 | ★★ Chain Reaction - with Ashley Felton | 20m, 4 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Wed 10th Dec 2014 | |||
Not too bad when you know the sequence, and it does look as though a fall at the crux would be into space rather than onto one of the ledges. Not that I'm keen to test that theory.
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22 | ★ Czech Mate - with Mike | 18m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Fri 17th Apr 2015 | |||
Entertaining start, nervy 4th clip, sequency climbing to get above the bulge, then straightforward finish. A few of the holds at the crux are not obvious.
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21 | ★★★ Real Life Ambition - with Ashley Felton | 15m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Wed 10th Dec 2014 | |||
A lovely technical and pumpy route
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21 | ★★★ Real Life Ambition - with Steve Whitehead | 15m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Wed 11th Nov 2015 | |||
Always a pleasure.
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21 | ★ Left Lateral Portside Smidgen Winkler - with Paul Donovan | 25m | Statham's Quarry | Average | Sun 30th Oct 2016 | |||
I swore off this climb some time ago, because it's rubbish. But today we were right there with time to spare, so we spent a little time working out the start and now it's ticked. I still don't have anything good to say about it.
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21 | ★ Left Lateral Portside Smidgen Winkler - with Rebecca Trigger | 25m | Statham's Quarry | Average | Sun 1st Mar 2020 | |||
Retro flash
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21 | ★★★ Real Life Ambition - with Marc | 15m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Fri 7th Apr 2023 | |||
21 | ★★★ Real Life Ambition - with Marc, Alex Campbell | 15m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Apr 2023 | |||
21 | ★★★ Real Life Ambition - with Marc, Rebecca Trigger, Ian, Claire | 15m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Sun 23rd Apr 2023 | |||
21 | ★★★ Real Life Ambition - with Alex Campbell, Marc | 15m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Tue 25th Apr 2023 | |||
18 | ★ Carrot Master - with Liz | 15m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | Average | Tue 5th May 2015 | |||
Fell at the first clip trying for the onsight. Came back down and finished clean on 2nd attempt. Hard at the bottom and easy at the top. No stars.
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18 | ★★ Boulder Dash - with Rebecca Trigger | 16m | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Fri 31st Jan 2020 | |||
Pleasant trad morning in the quarry
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18 | ★ Strider - with Rebecca Trigger | 25m | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Sun 21st Jun 2020 | |||
Sandbagged
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17 | ★★ Short Circuit Direct | 27m, 10 | Statham's Quarry | Average | Fri 17th Oct 2014 | |||
It's ok, I suppose. Not worth 2 stars though.
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17 | ★★ Kid Rock - with Ashley Felton, Mike | 14m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Tue 3rd Mar 2015 | |||
17 | ★★ Kid Rock - with Ashley Felton | 14m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Thu 16th Mar 2017 | |||
Warm up in the shade.
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16 | ★ Mount Everest - with Ashley Felton, Mike | 18m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Tue 3rd Mar 2015 | |||
16 | ★ Cornflake - with Rebecca | 13m | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 27th May 2015 | |||
12 | ★ Hipster Crack | 20m | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Fri 20th Jun 2014 | |||
Short, but easy to protect with big, chunky gear. Good route to build up some trad leading confidence.
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17 | ★ Morning Glory | 20m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Tue 10th Dec 2013 | |||
a bit insecure at the top, especially if it's windy
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16 | ★ Mount Everest | 18m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Sun 22nd Dec 2013 | |||
26 | ★★★ Chips 'n' Dips - with Tim | 20m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Fri 22nd Jan 2021 | |||
Early morning, perfect conditions. Got on to warm up, struggled through the crux, and sent. Worth turning up 2 days in a row
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25 | ★★ Hammer and Tongs - with Rebecca Trigger | 25m, 8 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th Dec 2015 | |||
Job done. Great route with a great variety of committing moves.
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25 | ★★ Carbon Dogs - with Paul Donovan, Oscar | 15m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Dec 2016 | |||
Finally, sweet relief. I've spent so much time on this climb I feel I must be, along with the esteemed Prof Pablo Montoya, one of the world's leading authorities on its finer details. Great climb, but I sure am happy to move on.
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25 | ★★ Bullseye - with Paul Donovan | 20m | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Oct 2017 | |||
Double send. Slight beta change made the start much better. Once I got going I didn't want to do it a second time, so I milked the rests and stayed fresh. Backed up by Paul sending in the wind and rain. Great session on a really satisfying climb.
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25 | ★ Batchain Puller - with Marc | 20m, 7 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th Feb 2021 | |||
Really satisfying climb. The bouldery start felt smooth today. The stemming section is insecure, but well protected, and the final moves really make you work. Solid 25 IMO.
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24 | ★★ All the Young Fascists - with Ashley Felton | 15m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Fri 22nd Apr 2016 | |||
Finally got there. I'm calling it a classic because no one can stop me, and it's such a satisfying climb with an intricate sequence through the crux. Hard for the grade.
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22 | ★★ Chain Reaction - with Paul Donovan, Rebecca Trigger | 20m, 4 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Thu 11th May 2017 | |||
1 dog, 1 pink point, thanks to Bec's beta. Night climbing makes the footholds hard to see, but also means you don't care that much about falling.
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22 | ★ Munji the Soul Stealer — 2 attempts - with Marc | 20m, 4 | Statham's Quarry | Sun 28th May 2023 | ||||
Sent on second attempt. Pretty cool, actually, with some interesting moves
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21 | ★★★ Real Life Ambition - with Ashley Felton | 15m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Thu 16th Mar 2017 | |||
Night climb. Head torch and flood light makes for some interesting shadows.
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17 | ★ Centrepiece - with Ashley Felton | 20m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | Average | Tue 13th Jan 2015 | |||
Decent climb that requires trust in your feet.
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17 | ★ Centrepiece - with Rebecca Trigger | 20m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | Average | Sun 1st Mar 2020 | |||
17 | ★ Morning Glory - with Ashley Felton, Marc | 20m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Sun 23rd Apr 2023 | |||
16 | ★ Mount Everest - with Marc, Rebecca Trigger | 18m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Sun 30th Apr 2023 | |||
23 | ★★ Stolen Glory - with Ashley Felton | 15m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Tue 24th Feb 2015 | |||
Easy start, but with a high first clip to keep you focused, then it's crimpy, technical and balancy with a nervy finish. Well worth doing.
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21 | ★★★ Real Life Ambition - with Ashley Felton | 15m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Fri 15th Dec 2017 | |||
Someone has left a lot of blood behind on this.
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18 | ★ Strider | 25m | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Sun 22nd Dec 2013 | |||
it gets vertical and quite run out after the 3rd bolt, but it's juggy enough not to be too big a deal
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18 | ★ Strider | 25m | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Tue 24th Dec 2013 | |||
Tricky start, but heading up the slab to the base of the arete is not as hard as it looks. Getting onto the arete from there is the crux.
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18 | ★ Strider | 25m | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Tue 7th Jan 2014 | |||
17 | ★ Twenty Easy Steps | 20m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | Average | Sun 22nd Dec 2013 | |||
the slab before the first bolt is somewhat precarious
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17 | ★ Morning Glory | 20m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Fri 27th Dec 2013 | |||
17 | ★ Twenty Easy Steps | 20m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Fri 27th Dec 2013 | |||
17 | ★ Twenty Easy Steps | 20m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Sat 7th Jun 2014 | |||
17 | ★★ Kid Rock | 14m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Fri 20th Jun 2014 | |||
16 17 | Quickie | 10m | Statham's Quarry | Don't Bother | Fri 20th Jun 2014 | |||
Short, harder than 16 at the bottom, way easier than 16 at the top, not a lot going for it.
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17 | ★ Morning Glory | 20m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Fri 20th Jun 2014 | |||
17 | ★ Twenty Easy Steps | 20m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Thu 16th Apr 2015 | |||
17 | ★ Morning Glory | 20m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Thu 16th Apr 2015 | |||
17 | ★★ Kid Rock - with Rebecca Trigger | 14m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Sat 15th Aug 2015 | |||
17 | ★ Morning Glory - with Ashley Felton | 20m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Fri 15th Dec 2017 | |||
16 | ★ Mount Everest | 18m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Tue 5th Nov 2013 | |||
Not bad. Juggy sections alternate with small footholds and crimps to keep things interesting.
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16 | ★ Ant Attack - with Michael | 24m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | Average | Wed 17th Dec 2014 | |||
Feels easier than 16, but how do you grade slab routes?
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16 | ★ Mount Everest - with Paul Donovan | 18m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Sun 6th Aug 2017 | |||
16 | ★ Blah, Blah, Blah - with Ashley Felton | 18m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | Average | Fri 15th Dec 2017 | |||
No stars.
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15 | ★ Plummeting Penguins | 27m, 6 | Statham's Quarry | Average | Tue 24th Dec 2013 | |||
18 | ★★ Boulder Dash - with Marc | 16m | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Sun 21st Feb 2021 | |||
17 | ★ Twenty Easy Steps | 20m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | Average | Tue 5th Nov 2013 | |||
one balancy move getting to the shothole
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16 | ★ Cornflake - with Rebecca Trigger | 13m | Statham's Quarry | ★ Good | Fri 31st Jan 2020 | |||
20 | ★ Shorter Circuit - with Steve Whitehead | 24m, 12 | Statham's Quarry | Average | Wed 11th Nov 2015 | |||
Top roped this after Steve went up Short Circuit. There are more and better holds than it looks like from the ground, but it's over fairly quickly and I'm not a fan of Short Circuit itself, so all up it's pretty average.
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20 | ★ Left Tourette - with Marc | Statham's Quarry | Sun 5th Mar 2023 | |||||
25 | ★★ Hammer and Tongs - with Ashley Felton | 25m, 8 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Tue 3rd Nov 2015 | |||
2 top rope ascents, both of them clean, neither of them totally convincing, but some time I'm going to have to think about the lead.
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22 | ★★ Chain Reaction - with Ashley Felton | 20m, 4 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
Tried for the onsight, as if that was going to work. Made a strategic withdrawal at the third bolt. Got through ok on toprope.
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20 | ★ Left Tourette - with Marc | Statham's Quarry | Sun 2nd Apr 2023 | |||||
20 | ★ Left Tourette - with Marc | Statham's Quarry | Sat 8th Apr 2023 | |||||
16 | Penguin Master | 25m | Statham's Quarry | Average | Tue 4th Mar 2014 | |||
Pretty easy, though you could get into trouble at the crux if you're not careful.
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26 | ★★★ Chips 'n' Dips - with Paul Donovan, Kym Campbell | 20m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Tue 10th Jan 2017 | |||
First look on toprope. Got up first time mainly by pulling on the rope. Got up next time pulling on the holds, so that was better. Big moves and technical climbing on little holds. This is an official project now.
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26 | ★★★ Chips 'n' Dips - with Paul Donovan | 20m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Feb 2017 | |||
Pretty scrappy, but better than last time. I still have no idea how to do the last metre to the anchors. It's going to be hard, but I don't think it's hopeless.
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26 | ★★★ Chips 'n' Dips - with Marc | 20m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Mon 27th Jan 2020 | |||
Had a rough time on this yesterday, but did better today, pulling all the moves for the first time. Lot of long reaches on small hand and foot holds. Still got some beta to resolve, but this will go.
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26 | ★★★ Chips 'n' Dips - with Marc | 20m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Mon 28th Dec 2020 | |||
Calling it a dog to provide encouragement for myself, though I aided past the 3rd bolt. Nearly made the move. The rest of it is coming together.
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26 | ★★★ Chips 'n' Dips - with Marc | 20m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Wed 6th Jan 2021 | |||
Getting closer on the stopper move past the 3rd bolt, and still have some work to do to put together the top section. The rest of it could go on a good day.
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26 | ★★★ Chips 'n' Dips - with Tim | 20m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Fri 15th Jan 2021 | |||
Three falls. Best attempt yet. Pulled the crux twice, and most other moves feel reasonably solid. Getting closer.
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26 | ★★★ Chips 'n' Dips - with Marc, Tim | 20m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Sun 17th Jan 2021 | |||
Felt hard today
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26 | ★★★ Chips 'n' Dips - with Tim, Marc | 20m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Thu 21st Jan 2021 | |||
Similar to last time.
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25 | ★★ Hammer and Tongs - with Ashley Felton | 25m, 8 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Tue 27th Oct 2015 | |||
2 more top rope attempts. The first was truly ugly, but at least I eventually worked out the top mantle. Second was almost clean except I slipped on the mantle after doing the hard work, taking essentially the last possible opportunity to fall.
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25 | ★★ Hammer and Tongs - with Richard, Rodney | 25m, 8 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Tue 22nd Dec 2015 | |||
One fall, going up to the undercling, and another sort of fall when a draw on my harness sneakily clipped itself to the draw on the bolt below the mantle as I climbed past, which stopped me in my tracks.
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25 | ★★ Carbon Dogs - with Paul Donovan | 15m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Jun 2016 | |||
Top rope and aid. Bloody hell. Cruxes all over the place on this one, and hard climbing in between. Might be out of my range for now, but I'll try again and see if I can solve some of the puzzles.
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25 | ★★ Carbon Dogs - with Marc, Ben | 15m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Tue 14th Jun 2016 | |||
Tope rop and aid. Small amount of gain, lot of pain. Most of it I can do, given enough attempts, but moving up into the V notch near the top remains beyond me. So draining. I look forward to getting on it again soon.
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25 | ★★ Carbon Dogs - with Marc | 15m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th Jun 2016 | |||
Made some real progress today. Some of the hard moves are coming together, and the crux no longer seems impossible. Sure is sustained, though.
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25 | ★★ Carbon Dogs - with Gwyn Hughes, Chris | 15m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sun 26th Jun 2016 | |||
Struggling with the bottom traverse now, but I have some hope for the top section. Not making much progress, but not ready to give up either.
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25 | ★★ Carbon Dogs - with Robin | 15m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Fri 1st Jul 2016 | |||
Ok, got the beta settled finally. Now it's just a matter of endurance.
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25 | ★★ Carbon Dogs - with Paul Donovan | 15m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Wed 3rd Aug 2016 | |||
I thought I had the beta, but Paul's sequence through the low traverse is much better than what I was doing. Little by little this is coming together.
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25 | ★★ Carbon Dogs - with Paul Donovan | 15m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Tue 16th Aug 2016 | |||
Three burns. The less said about the first the better. Second run I got to the top with one rest, which is easily my best attempt ever. Third was like the first.
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25 | ★★ Carbon Dogs - with Paul Donovan | 15m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Tue 23rd Aug 2016 | |||
Upgraded from toprope dog to legitimate lead dog. Well it feels like progress to me. On track for a September send.
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25 | ★★ Carbon Dogs - with Paul Donovan, Joe Hewitt | 15m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Tue 30th Aug 2016 | |||
Another couple of dogs. Sooner or later this will have to go.
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25 | ★★ Carbon Dogs - with Paul Donovan | 15m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Wed 7th Sep 2016 | |||
Fell at the 5th bolt this time. One step closer.
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25 | ★★ Carbon Dogs - with Paul Donovan | 15m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Sep 2016 | |||
Not substantially better or worse than last effort. Maybe next time.
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25 | ★★ Carbon Dogs - with Paul Donovan | 15m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Fri 30th Sep 2016 | |||
Goddamnit
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25 | ★★ Carbon Dogs - with Ashley Felton, Paul Donovan | 15m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Tue 18th Oct 2016 | |||
Two more dogs, another half metre closer. On track to finish the thing in mid-November, I guess.
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25 | ★★ Carbon Dogs - with Paul Donovan, Rebecca Trigger | 15m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Thu 17th Nov 2016 | |||
Pretty average effort today.
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25 | ★★ Carbon Dogs - with Paul Donovan, andrea | 15m, 5 | Statham's Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Nov 2016 | |||
Two more dogs, closest I've ever been to finishing it, wasted so much energy on the 5th clip I had nothing left for the final couple of moves, but I know what to do about that now. I think this will go next session. Doesn't hurt to make a rash prediction once in a while.
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