Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Cape Tourville The Quadrangle and North Tourville | |||||
25 | ★★★ EIdolon
An incredible and inspiring diagonal line that packs a punch. Sustained jamming and laybacks all the way. Micro cams, finger sized cams and small to medium wires. Take a #4 and #5 BD cam for the belay plus a few cordelettes to extend the anchor if you want to top rope it. FA: Hamish & Marcel Jackson, 2003 | 14m | |||
25 | ★★★ Truency
Follows the left line of bolts on the ocean-facing cliff 30m south of Eidolon. FA: Hamish Jackson, 2003 FFA: Hamish Jackson, Feb 2017 | 12m | |||
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Cape Tourville Delta Of Venus Wall | |||||
18 | Cumquat
| 23m | |||
21 | Slippery Helm
| 23m | |||
18 | Budgie Seed
| 23m | |||
19 | Delta Of Venus
| 23m | |||
16 | Sugar Crumb Arete
| 100m | |||
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Cape Tourville Clichy Face | |||||
18 | Quiet Days In Clichy
| 80m | |||
18 | Rue de Remarque
| 65m | |||
17 | Giverny
| 170m | |||
17 | Rue Montparnasse
| 70m | |||
18 | ★ Only The Foolish Mourn
| 75m | |||
16 | Cape Crumbles
| 90m | |||
16 | The Link
| 20m | |||
21 | Porpoise
| 90m | |||
22 | Tour de Force
| 25m | |||
18 | Antioch
| 16m | |||
19 | ★ Byzantium
| 27m | |||
22 | High Energy Plan
| 30m | |||
18 | Goodbye Tiger
| 30m | |||
21 | Heartbreaker
| 90m | |||
19 | Tour de Farce
| 70m | |||
20 | La Grande Epoque
| 100m | |||
20 | Acts Of Piracy
| 90m | |||
20 | Queen Of Swords
| 95m | |||
17 | Folies Bergere
| 100m | |||
13 | Rotten Plum
| 100m | |||
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Cape Tourville Far Left | |||||
24 | ★★ Painkiller
| 40m | |||
25 | ★★★ E
| 25m | |||
23 | ★ Sister Morphine
| 15m | |||
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Lego Area | |||||
24 | ★★ King Constipator
| 40m | |||
21 | ★ Lego
| 25m | |||
18 | Demolition Darby
| 10m | |||
15 | I See You Baby (Shakin' The Ass)
| 20m | |||
23 | ★★★ Let Loose the Kraken
Pitch 1, 23 Steep corner crack with big roof at half height, then splitter finish to ledge. Pitch 2, 23 Cliff splitting offwidth/squeeze chimney! Gear larger than a camalot 6 is essential for this pitch, and a long shirt! FFA: Squib | 40m, 2 | |||
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Rubix Cube - Bouldering | |||||
VB | 1st VE
Sit Start just left of corner, pull up and top out straight via mantle | ||||
VB | 2nd VB
Sit Start in corner and climb up using corner and slopers on right | ||||
V1 | ★ 1st V1
Sit start using sidepull on the left and shallow crack on the right, do a move or two gaining a higher hold on the left and top out via slopey mantle. Try to stay on the right as much as possible. | ||||
V0 | ★ V0
Sit start on juggy shelf, mantle and mantle to top | ||||
VB | 3rd VB
Sit start at the side pull/crack, mantle onto ledge on the left and top out as for #4 | ||||
V2 | ★ Goodbye Fingerprint
Sit start and climb the slightly left trending diagonal cracks with slightly dicey top mantle | ||||
V3 | ★★ Vein Fracture
Sit start as for Goodbye Fingerprint, climb the right trending diagonal cracks with underclings, crimps and pockets to topout over highest point above crack on the right. | ||||
V3 | ★★ Blade
Stand start with blade-like feature and crack, move up the crack to same topout as Vein Fracture. Don't use feet on the right. | ||||
V1 | 2nd V1
Sit start on flakey feature and move up to top-out straight above | ||||
V2 | ★ Spotter for Sale
Sit start in the crack and move up to dicey mantle, better bring a spotter. | ||||
V1 | ★★ 1-800-Rent-A-Spotter
Sit start in the crack and climb straight up to top either via stepping onto the right or staying on the left. Injury potential about 9 out of 10 in case of an uncontrolled fall, tied in spotters or simply good skills would be advisable | ||||
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Rubik's Cube | |||||
18 | ★ Analysis, Statistics
| 15m | |||
15 | Interval
| 15m | |||
20 | The Horror
| 8m | |||
24 | ★ Blinking Idiot
| 8m | |||
24 | ★ Snakes, Ladders
Flared cracks and layaways on both faces. Absolutely no gear. | 8m | |||
19 | ★ Bill's Climb
Up shallow corner to undercling spike. Follow tricky cracks above. Start: Left of two corners on the face. | 8m | |||
15 | ★ a + b
A tricky finger start to the small ledge. Up the crack system above. Start: The larger of the two corners on the face (the one on the right). | 8m | |||
12 | Easy Solo
Take the easiest line of jugs up the wall. Poor pro. | 8m | |||
20 | ★ Digit
| 7m | |||
21 | ★★ Spirit Of Place
| 6m | |||
21 | ★ Soft Grit
| 6m | |||
16 | ★ Tangent
| 6m | |||
20 | Fractional
Corner on extreme left of Black face. Bridge up blind corner to ledge. Up easy handcrack above if you want. Bad protection down low. FA: D.Stephenson, N.Deka, D.Batten & Mar 1989, 1989 | 12m | |||
10 | ★ Pink Solo
| 6m | |||
15 | ★ Denominator
| 6m | |||
17 | ★ Rhomboid
| 10m | |||
22 | Dynamo Hum
| 10m | |||
22 | Left Crack
| 10m | |||
17 | Geometry
| 10m | |||
17 | Hypothetical
| 10m | |||
23 | ★ Return to Cookie Mountain
A cool series of juggy flakes leads to a bouldery crux, followed by a flustering mantle. 4UB + DBB. Start: First line left of Roxanne's Corner. FA: mutton chops | 10m | |||
8 | Roxanne's Corner
This stinky corner is home to lots of live bugs, dead bugs. dead seagulls, live grandma's handbags, dead grandma's handbags and God knows what else. Climb it if you feel like punishing yourself. Start: The obvious corner where the Red Face meets the overhanging Blue Face. FA: Roxanne Wells, 2000 | 12m | |||
15 | D Squared + r
| 12m | |||
14 | Logarithm
| 12m | |||
23 | ★ Low flyer
FA: S.Young, 2006 | 8m, 3 | |||
18 | Untitled Route
Straight up the steep cracks, to more a more relaxed angle face with jugs and jams. Start: At the base of the twin cracks around the corner to the right from a + b. FA: Unknown, 2000 | 10m | |||
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Tetragrammaton Buttress | |||||
20 | The Drivel Dies
| 35m | |||
21 | The Devil Drives
| 40m | |||
20 | ★★ The Boy Who Cried Wolf
| 40m | |||
22 | ★ The Little Red Hen
| 40m | |||
22 | Chicken Surprise
| 12m | |||
21 | ★★ Tetragrammaton
FA: J.Fantini, N.Smith, N.Deka & Nov 1981., 1981 | 40m, 2 | |||
19 | ★★★ No More Mr Nice Guy
Follow the the cracks and flake to the half-way ledge of Tetragrammaton. Start: At the far right end of the ledge system at the base. | 25m | |||
26 | ★★ Exocet
P1. (18) Up NMMNG but continue up and right instead or traversing right. Belay at a comfortable slopy stance. P2. (26) Thin crack on steep arete. Traverse right at roof past a bolt to DBB. P3. (17+) Given 17, sandbagged. Up steep fist cracks top FA: Garry Phillips & Simon Young, 2007 | 50m, 3, 1 | |||
28 R | ★★★ Fodiator
Continue up the steep arête of Exocet until it reaches the roof. Instead of traversing right, place some bomber gear and blast straight up just right of the arête. After some tricky moves, the difficulty eases and is protected by good RPs and wires. Move left and up the arête. FA: Jul 2017 | 47m, 2 | |||
25 | ★★ Down Under
An amazing pitch of climbing. Single bolt hanging belay just above the water. A tricky steep crack leads to some easy climbing and an exposed and exciting traverse left around the arete and up to the belay for P2 of Exocet. Finish either by climbing Exocet or NMMNG. FA: Garry Phillips & Alex Lewis, 2008 | 18m, 6 | |||
19 | Edge Of The World
| 40m | |||
Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Alchemy Wall | |||||
18 | Monte Carlo
| 17m | |||
20 | ★★ Evelyn's Climb
| 15m | |||
19 | ★★ Coolibah Crack
| 20m | |||
25 | ★★★ Immaculate Misconception
Climbs left arete of Alchemy Wall via some bolts and wires. Moves right at second bolt above rooflet and back towards the arete for gear and more holds. Gear anchor set a long way back from the top FA: Nick Hancock | 20m, 3 | |||
22 | ★ Hermes Playmate
| 20m | |||
23 | ★★ Hermes Direct Finish
| 25m | |||
21 | ★★ Hermes Trismegistus
| 27m | |||
25 | ★★ Captivating Passions
Mixed bolts and gear. | 20m, 2 | |||
27 | ★★★ Ockham's Razor
Pure slab in the middle of Alchemy Wall. 6 U-bolts + 1 or 2 small cams climb to first bolt. Crux begins at fourth bolt with flake. Thin moves up to flaring crack (can use wires to protect) and straight up to ledge. Place #3 Camelot in break, climb the final bulge to the top. Needs grade confirmation. FA: Simon Bischoff, 2013 | 20m, 6 | |||
22 | ★★★ Walking the Plank Direct Finish
Climb Walking the Plank but don't step right. Instead step left past a bolt and finish up wide crack (#4) | 20m, 1 | |||
19 | ★★★ Walking the Plank
| 25m | |||
19 | ★★★ Blue-eyed Blonde
| 25m | |||
21 | ★★★ Alchemy
| 25m | |||
15 | Fool's Gold
| 10m | |||
28 | ★ Exquisite Tenderness
| 15m, 5 | |||
22 | ★★ L'Obsession
Technical contortions up the right arete of the small face above and to the right of Alchamy Wall. Tree belay. FA: N Selby, 2003 | 14m, 5 | |||
15 | ★ Black and Gold
Traverse left under-clinging flakes then up slab | 12m |