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Table of contents

1. The Rock 65 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 147.074419, -35.283397

Description:

Know as Kengal to the local Wiradjuri people, The Rock towers 250 metres over the surrounding countryside, and is thought to have been a site for initiation ceremonies. The reserve is an island of natural habitat for native animals, including the turquoise parrot and glossy black cockatoo.

The Rock Nature Reserve is in the southern Riverina of New South Wales, and lies on the boundary of two major physiographic regions: the Riverine Plain and the western slopes of the Eastern Highlands.

On a clear day, you can see Mount Kosciuszko and the Victorian Alps from the top of the three kilometre Yerong nature track.

Access Issues:

This reserve is 6 km west of The Rock village on Lockhart Road, 35 km east of Lockhart and 40 km south-west of Wagga Wagga off the Olympic Highway. From 1st July to 31 December The Rock is closed to all 'Rock Sports', due to breeding Peregrine Falcons.

Approach:

Approach time to The Towers is 20 Minutes, Central Buttress is 25 Minutes, and The Main Face is 35 Minutes

Where To Stay:

There is no camping within The Rock Nature Reserve, visitors can stay the night at The Rock Village, or find other accommodation options in neighbouring towns including Wagga Wagga

1.1. The Towers 41 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 147.072933, -35.267794

Description:

The Towers is the North facing cliff line that is visible from the car park.

Approach:

Take the marked tourist track (Yerong Nature Trail) from the carpark, and turn up the obvious track on the right after about 100 metres. The track is not marked. This leads you up a fairly easy trail to the base of the cliff line and should take about twenty minutes.

Climbers should, where possible, descend using the very adequate rappelling points, the position of which are marked by a small cairn at the top of the climbs. Note that a 50m rope will only just touch the ground from these points if it is slung half way. A 60m rope would be more appropriate. If a 50m rope is used you will have to rappel to a ledge that is about 2m above the ground, then downclimb. A knot in the end of the rope is highly recommended.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Ladder

Easy beginners' climb on small clifline L. of where old track ascends cliff. Start at the ladder like recess.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1974

6Trad 15m
2 Daisy

Wall several m. L. of descent gully.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1974

8Trad 30m
3 Descent Gully 4Trad 35m
4 MMMM

Wall R. of descent gully.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1974

8Trad 30m
5 Kidstuff

Layback crack 8m R. of DG. Line L. of bush, then directly to roof.

FA: Glen Holloway, 1993

5Trad 20m
6 Traverse #1

Start is marked (T1). Directly up crack, veer slightly left about halfway up onto slab, exit via gully on the left. Nice easy warm up peice.

FA: Andrew Hedley, 1973

10Trad 30m
7 Leeper Traverse

Start is marked (T1). Directly up crack, veer slightly left about halfway up onto slab, exit via gully on the left. Nice easy warm up peice.

FA: Andrew Hedley, 1973

11Trad 35m
8 The Nose

Start marked (TN). Nose to roof. Step R. and ascend wall.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley (15,M1, 1973

FFA: Greg Smith, Jeff Boyton, 1976

18Trad 35m
9 Bill's Climb

Start marked (BC). One of the first climbs completed at The Rock. Chimney formed by large block. Veer slightly R. up wall, then gully. Bill Davis and Scout group 4/72.Two alternative finishes are on wall L. of exit gully.Line closest to gully is grade 10; line further L. is grade 8.

FA: Andrew Hedly, Jeff Boyton., 1974

10Trad 35m
10 Traverse #2

Start marked (T2). Corner, then pleasantly up wall. Veer slightly R. to roof. Traverse R. under roof t easiest line on R. side of overhang. Slight bulge, then directly up.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1973

13Trad 40m
11 Honourable Harry

Start marked (HH). Crack, then finish by way of BC's gully.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1973

12Trad 35m
12 Mrs Fairy

Start marked (MF). Crack up to small overhang, step left onto slab, up to wide ledge then exit via chimney (BC's gully). Ledge can be used for top belay if done in two pitches.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1973

12Trad 35m
13 Temptation

A good climb if one resists the temptation to escape to easier climbing on L. Start just L. of Terminator. R. side of face. First crux moves protected by BR. Rest of face is adequately protected by RPs. From horizontal, move R. to join Terminator or step L. through bushes and up face to a large ledge. Continue up gully or climb unprotected roof (20/21) on R. side of gully.

FA: Robert Cowan, Andrew McAuley, 1989

20Trad 40m
14 Terminator

One of The Rock's classic test-pieces. Start Marked. Start 1m L. of Scratched Knees on top of rock. Up L. side of recess through spectacular roof line. Turn lower roof on L. using prominent hold on L. wall to gain halfway ledge of Traverse #2. (Belay possible under main roof). Turn second roof using underclings, then large jam-crack to reach jugs on lip. Wall above. (Both roofs easier than they look.).

FA: Jeff Boyton, Edward Fairleigh 1970's.

20Trad 40m
15 * Scratched Knees

Start marked (SK). Starts 1m R. of Terminator (just L. of large nose). R. side of recess and overhang to roof. Don't pike on R., but head straight up through roof and finish up L. line.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1973

15Trad 35m
16 Wall Flower

Excellent climbing in unusual place. Start as for SK, moving R. to join bottoming crack. Do not hang around crack like a wallflower - continue up arête. This leads to easier climbing and lovely stroll to top. Protection a bit dubious, but small RPs in strange places will protect crux.

FA: Robert Cowan, Greg Claire, 1989

19Trad 35m
17 * Staircase

The Rock's first classic test piece at this grade. Start 2m left of prominent corner. Prominent upside-down staircase (two BRs) to ledge.

FA: Robert Cowan, Andrew Driscoll, 1989

21Mixed 35m, 2
18 ** Angie

Excellent climbing at this grade. Prominent corner marked 'A'. Corner to roof. L. past some large, loose blocks, then continue up.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1973

15Trad 35m
19 *** Outside Edge

Follow Angie to roof, then follow R. line through roof. Straight up loose, R-facing corner.

FA: Wayne Maher, Glen Donohue, Iain Sedgman, Andrew Webb, 1984

19Trad 40m
20 * Lest We Forget

Beautiful line done in two pitches to reduce rope drag. 1) Start R of Angie and follow thin, diagonal line on face to roof. Exit R. Belay just round roof on blocky stance. 2) Step back L., then steep line.

FA: Iain Sedgman, Glen Donohue (alt), 1984

17Trad 40m
21 Secret Agent Man

First line R. of LWF. Thin crack, moving R. to horizontal. Traverse L. along horizontal to meet LWF.

FA: Robert Cowan, Andrew Driscoll., 1989

22Trad 20m
22 Chaos

Climb SAM to horizontal, then move R. to overlap. Stretch past BR to small roof. Over roof and up face until under large roof. Finish up LWF. (#5 stopper is useful over roof).

FA: Robert Cowan, Greg Caire, Andrew Driscoll, 1989

23Trad 20m
23 Chaos Roof

After climbing CHAOS, instead of continuing up LWF climb L corner of roof.

FA: Robert Cowan, Peter Cunningham, Andrew McAuley, 1989

23Trad 20m
24 Jammer's Delight

Start marked. Easy corner past pillar and up L. side of wall.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley., 1973

9Trad 40m
25 Jammer's Delight Variant Finish

Start as for JD but at about 15m follow easy crack on L. wall.

FA: Glen Donohue, Andrew Webb, 1984

8Trad 40m
26 The Brink of Misery

Start 2m R. of JD at L. side of face. Hard face moves with scant protection lead by way of loose rock to shallow corner. Follow this up to top of pillar. Face above.

FA: Iain Sedgman, 1984

18Trad 40m
27 Comfortably Numb

Thin line 3m R. of BM leading to shallow corner. Start behind large black and climb onto face. Difficult moves to horizontal. Pull past this to easier climbing. Protection difficult to place.

FA: Robert Cowan, Peter Cunningham, Andrew, 1989

22Trad 40m
28 Virgin's Crack

Marked corner 9m R. of JD. Awkward start leads to quality. 20m slab corner. Easily to top.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1973

14Trad 40m
29 Mohammed

Follow for VC for 1m, then move R. onto arête. (If you reach L. into corner grade is reduced to about 15). Crux is getting past overlap.

FA: Andrew McAuley 80's.

18Trad 40m
30 Chromium Dog

R. of VC and round corner is 1m high ledge below steep face. Line from middle of ledge, moving R. At horizontal, swing L. and up into loose corner.

FA: Robert Cowan, Andrew McAuley., 1989

22Trad 40m
31 Space Junk

Excellent climbing on good rock. Small corner just R. of CD for a few moves. Where CD traverses L., climb thin, R-leaning crack. Follow this thin line (crux) to horizontal. Finish up corner. If crux is too hard, climb up L. and traverse R. along horizontal to finish the line (23).

FA: Robert Cowan, Andrew McAuley, 1989

24Trad 40m
32 Instant Religion

Steep face 4m R. of VC. Take line at R. side, about 3m L. of Andrew and detached block. Veer L. with line into short corner (crux).

FA: Iain Sedgman, Peter Cunningham, Glen Donohue, D Harris, Tony Velling, 1985

18Trad 40m
33 Andrew

20m R. of VC is corner which starts behind L. end of large, detached block. Up between block and wall to join corner.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Harry Boyton, 1974

18Trad 40m
34 Out of Africa

Follow Andrew to ledge (level with top of block). Crack out of R. side of Andrew. Thin moves to good stance. Finish up corner.

FA: Andrew McAuley, Robert Cowan, 1989

19Trad 40m
35 Rambunctious Flamboyance

2m R. of Andrew is a bottomless, shallow corner behind a detached block. 'Delicate' is the flavour of this test piece.

FA: Andrew McAuley, Robert Cowan, 1989

19Trad 40m
36 Grand Larceny

Just L. of The Brisbane Line at end of detached block is 4m face leading to horizontal. Ease up face L. of arête on micro holds to horizontal. L-leaning line to ledge, then face above.

FA: Peter Cunningham, Robert Cowan, Spring 1987. Direct Start added by Robert Cowan, Andrew McAuley, 1989

21Trad 40m
37 The Brisbane Line

Starts at R. end of detached block. Overhanging corner, then step up next (tricky) corner above. Major corner-line above to little ledge with small tree, then last part of corner.

FA: Iain Sedgman, Glen Donohue, Wayne Maher,, 1984

20Trad 40m
38 FM (Full Manual)

Thin, discontinuous crack 1m R. of BL to horizontal ramp of April Fools. R. corner. A bit of manual manipulation will see you through this section. Continue up broken face.

FA: Robert Cowan, Greg Claire, 1989

21Trad 40m
39 April Fools

Starts 5m R. of BL on ramp. Follow L-sloping ramp to small ledge. Traverse round nose to main crack-line.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley (14, M1), 1973

FFA: Greg Smith, Jeff Boyton, 1976

17Trad 45m
40 Benders Lane

20m Start at belay 13m R. of AF (up scrubby gully). Tend L., then cracks and ledges to main ledge

11Trad 32m
41 L Plates

At the bottom R end of The Towers wall before it turns chossy is a 20m high butress about 50m R of Benders Lane. Start directly in front of butress and up 5m past a finger crack to a large ledge. Continue 10m up corner and step left onto smaller ledge. Up last 5m past large broken crack and block. Ascending -from the top 50m further to the R a cairn marks an easy ramp scramble back down.

FA: Darren Miles, 2001

5Trad 20m

1.2. Central Butress 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 147.075253, -35.271477

Approach:

Access to Central Buttress is easiest by way of the Yerong Nature Trail from the car park. Follow the track towards the summit, as the track becomes steeper it switches back a few times until the track passes under the The Main Face. Before passing under the The Main Face traverse right to the foot of the Central Buttress. This may require some easy bush bashing as the track is not obvious from the Yerong Nature Trail. Access to the Central Walls is either by traversing left from the base of The Towers cliff line, or by traversing right along the cliff line from the Central Buttress. Climbs are described from left to right; from the Central Buttress towards The Towers along the Central Walls.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Central Buttress Left-hand Crack

Start at L. side of (marked) buttress. L. crack system.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1973

12Trad 35m
2 Central Buttress Right-hand Crack

Start at R. side of (marked) buttress. R. crack system.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1973

12Trad 35m
3 Zed Crack

Start marked. Zigzag up start, then wall.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Harry Boyton, Greg Smith, 1976

14Trad 35m
4 Exit Gully

Start marked. Easy gully to top of cliff.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Harry Boyton, 1973

7Trad 30m
5 Mr Toad

Start Marked. Up large crack to alcove on L. Follow obvious crack to crux. Reachy move into alcove rest. Step R and up to belay on L.

FA: Damien Brook, Mick Sander & Ange Boyd, 2013

15Trad 25m
6 Friction Boots

Start marked. Start on high-angled, mossy slab about 60m from Exit Gully. Directly up slab.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1974

17Trad 25m
7 Easy Crack

Easy crack just R. of Friction Boots slab.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1973

8Trad 25m
8 Slippery Serpent

Start marked. Up crack past bushes, follow layback right past small roof then on to top

FA: Mick Sander, Ange Boyd, Damien Brook, 2013

10Trad 30m
9 Jeff's Chimney

On the right side of the Central Walls are two large chimneys readily seen from the road when driving to the Rock Nature Reserve from The Rock township. Big L. chimney

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1973

14Trad 35m
10 Greg's Chimney

On the right side of the Central Walls are two large chimneys readily seen from the road when driving to the Rock Nature Reserve from The Rock township. Big R. chimney

FA: Jeff Boyton, Greg Smith., 1975

14Trad 35m

1.3. The Main Face 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 147.074213, -35.274819

Description:

A great climbing area for a hot afternoon.

Approach:

Access to The Main Face is by the Yerong Nature Trail from the car park. Climbs are listed left to right. At the left end of this cliff are five short corners; they are, Running Crack, Solo Crack, January Crack, Carcinogenic Cloud and Greg's Climb. A great climbing area for a hot afternoon. All climbs used to be marked, but markings have begun to wear and can be very difficult to find. All climbs are marked, but markings have begun to wear and can be very difficult to find.

Upper Terrace On the terrace above the Main Face are two tiers. Go to the top tier for Walking Across the Rooftops, Tinsel Town, and Yerong Trail Directissimo.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Running Crack

First corner-crack on L. side of cliff.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Greg Smith, 1976

8Trad 10m
2 Maherie

'There are routes and there are routes - but this is not one of them. It will surely land on the packs in years to come'. Loose. Start about 2m R. of RC. Move up L. and scale loose rock to perch yourself on person-sized, loose flake. Continue up even looser line above.

FA: Wayne Maher, Glen Donohue, Iain Sedgman, Andrew Webb, 1984

13Trad 10m
3 Solo Crack

Corner R. of Running Crack.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Greg Smith, 1976

10Trad 15m
4 January Crack

Corner R. of Solo Crack.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Greg Smith, 1976

10Trad 20m
5 Mossy, Too

Start in crack system just R. of arête between January Crack and Carcinogenic Cloud. Crack until arête can be gained.

FA: Derek Rempe, Robert Cowan, 1996

14Trad 30m
6 Carcinogenic Cloud

Corner R. of January Crack.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Greg Smith, 1976

10Trad 30m
7 Greg's Climb

Start marked. Corner R. of Carcinogenic Cloud. Crack and wall above.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Greg Smith, 1976

16Trad 40m
8 Falcon's Lair

3m R. of Greg's Climb is ledge 3m off ground. Boulder to ledge and climb corner to roof. Step R. to gain beautiful finger crack. Wall.

FA: Robert Cowan, Derek Rempe, 1996

19Trad 40m
9 The Rock Face Route

A classic climb and the first done at The Rock. Start marked.

  1. Scramble to corner crack which give access to R. sloping ramp. Climb ramp which runs to large ledge. Belay on ledge.

  2. Traverse L. along ledge and round buttresses to reach exposed eagles-nest-like stance where ledge terminates.

  3. From stance climb crack, then veer slightly R. to escape wall and face (crux).

Exposure is grade 15 on its own.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Shane Burkett, 1971

15Trad 120m
10 The Rock Face Direct

The Rock's original 'big wall' climb. Start marked.

  1. Cracks to ledge

  2. Aid thin crack which arches L. to join main crack/chimney line.

  3. Chimney-crack.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1974

15 M3Aid 65m
11 Mossy

Start marked. Line of least resistance up mossy slab on R. side of face.

FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley, 1974

13Trad 40m

1.4. Upper Terrace 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 147.073319, -35.274762

Approach:

Continue up the Yerong Nature Trail towards the summit, on the terrace above The Main Face are two tiers, go to the top tier.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Walk Across the Rooftops

Ramble up R. side of cave, then traverse L. to base of crack. Climb crack.

FA: Robert Cowan, Andrew McAuley, 1989

20Trad 30m
2 Tinsel Town

Blank corner 2m right of WAR. Move R. at ledge and up corners (crux).

FA: Robert Cowan, Andrew McAuley, 1989

19Trad 30m
3 Yerong Trail Direttissimo

On the terrace above the Main Face are some interesting lines. About 100m from the L. are two good-looking lines. L. one is steep, closed corner starting halfway up cliff; R. one is saner version with a steep, blocky crack line at half height.

  1. 15 m Follow some moderate ramps to blocky belay a few metres R. of above mentioned lines.

  2. 15m Move up and slightly R., ignoring two hardish traverses L. Step out R. on to large, bottomless blocks below little crack through top roof. Step up and continue.

FA: Wayne Maher, Iain Sedgman, 1984

13Trad 30m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
4 Descent Gully Trad 35m 1.1. The Towers
5 Kidstuff Trad 20m 1.1. The Towers
L Plates Trad 20m 1.1. The Towers
6 The Ladder Trad 15m 1.1. The Towers
7 Exit Gully Trad 30m 1.2. Central Butress
8 Daisy Trad 30m 1.1. The Towers
Jammer's Delight Variant Finish Trad 40m 1.1. The Towers
MMMM Trad 30m 1.1. The Towers
Easy Crack Trad 25m 1.2. Central Butress
Running Crack Trad 10m 1.3. The Main Face
9 Jammer's Delight Trad 40m 1.1. The Towers
10 Bill's Climb Trad 35m 1.1. The Towers
Traverse #1 Trad 30m 1.1. The Towers
Slippery Serpent Trad 30m 1.2. Central Butress
Carcinogenic Cloud Trad 30m 1.3. The Main Face
January Crack Trad 20m 1.3. The Main Face
Solo Crack Trad 15m 1.3. The Main Face
11 Benders Lane Trad 32m 1.1. The Towers
Leeper Traverse Trad 35m 1.1. The Towers
12 Honourable Harry Trad 35m 1.1. The Towers
Mrs Fairy Trad 35m 1.1. The Towers
Central Buttress Left-hand Crack Trad 35m 1.2. Central Butress
Central Buttress Right-hand Crack Trad 35m 1.2. Central Butress
13 Traverse #2 Trad 40m 1.1. The Towers
Maherie Trad 10m 1.3. The Main Face
Mossy Trad 40m 1.3. The Main Face
Yerong Trail Direttissimo Trad 30m 1.4. Upper Terrace
14 Virgin's Crack Trad 40m 1.1. The Towers
Greg's Chimney Trad 35m 1.2. Central Butress
Jeff's Chimney Trad 35m 1.2. Central Butress
Zed Crack Trad 35m 1.2. Central Butress
Mossy, Too Trad 30m 1.3. The Main Face
15 ** Angie Trad 35m 1.1. The Towers
* Scratched Knees Trad 35m 1.1. The Towers
Mr Toad Trad 25m 1.2. Central Butress
The Rock Face Route Trad 120m 1.3. The Main Face
15 M3 The Rock Face Direct Aid 65m 1.3. The Main Face
16 Greg's Climb Trad 40m 1.3. The Main Face
17 April Fools Trad 45m 1.1. The Towers
* Lest We Forget Trad 40m 1.1. The Towers
Friction Boots Trad 25m 1.2. Central Butress
18 Andrew Trad 40m 1.1. The Towers
Instant Religion Trad 40m 1.1. The Towers
Mohammed Trad 40m 1.1. The Towers
The Brink of Misery Trad 40m 1.1. The Towers
The Nose Trad 35m 1.1. The Towers
19 Out of Africa Trad 40m 1.1. The Towers
*** Outside Edge Trad 40m 1.1. The Towers
Rambunctious Flamboyance Trad 40m 1.1. The Towers
Wall Flower Trad 35m 1.1. The Towers
Falcon's Lair Trad 40m 1.3. The Main Face
Tinsel Town Trad 30m 1.4. Upper Terrace
20 Temptation Trad 40m 1.1. The Towers
Terminator Trad 40m 1.1. The Towers
The Brisbane Line Trad 40m 1.1. The Towers
Walk Across the Rooftops Trad 30m 1.4. Upper Terrace
21 FM (Full Manual) Trad 40m 1.1. The Towers
Grand Larceny Trad 40m 1.1. The Towers
* Staircase Mixed 35m, 2 1.1. The Towers
22 Chromium Dog Trad 40m 1.1. The Towers
Comfortably Numb Trad 40m 1.1. The Towers
Secret Agent Man Trad 20m 1.1. The Towers
23 Chaos Trad 20m 1.1. The Towers
Chaos Roof Trad 20m 1.1. The Towers
24 Space Junk Trad 40m 1.1. The Towers