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Routes in Royalty Walls

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Showing all 26 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
8 Lara's Knockers

The left of the two obvious trenches in the face where the path arrives at the crag.

Trad 15m The You Yangs
16 Dead Queen in the Middle of the Road

Starts just right of Laras Knockers, with easy climbing to the first (disconcertingly high) bolt, then becoming harder towards the top, with a committing finish. Double ring bolt loweroff marked in topo is at least 5 meters back from the top of the climb and is shared with adjacent climbs.

Sport 15m, 2 The You Yangs
18 Lord Louis Mountsplatten

Tricky start (crux) to carrot bolt. The easier moves to the top.

Sport 13m, 2 The You Yangs
17 Buckingham

This climb has been downgraded from 17 to 15 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest. Double ring bolt loweroff marked in topo is at least 5 meters back from the top of the climb and is shared with adjacent climbs.

Sport 15m, 2 The You Yangs
16 Live and Let Di
Sport 14m, 2 The You Yangs
17 Royal Auto

FA: Russ Crow, 1985

Trad 10m The You Yangs
8 Megs's Misfortune

The right of the two obvious trenches in the face where the path arrives at the crag.

FA: 2009

Trad 14m The You Yangs
10 Queen of Diamonds
Trad 12m The You Yangs
16 Koo Woz Ere

The last climb on the far right side of the crag. Delicate start to bolt, then though easy ground.

Sport 12m, 2 The You Yangs
13 Jack of Hearts

The thin seam up the middle of the wall to the horizontal break, then up to a ledge and easily over the blocks at the top. Brass micro-nuts recommended.

Trad 12m The You Yangs
20 Regicide

Ridiculously run out to the first bolt. If you’re sane, you can protect the lower moves by placing trad protection in the crack of Royal Auto.

Mixed trad 10m, 1 The You Yangs
8 Corner R of Jack of Hearts

Unlikely to be a FA, but hey, I'll claim it until someone else does.

This climb has been upgraded from 8 to 9 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest.

FA: .

Trad 12m The You Yangs
14 Tree in a Crack

The thin crack just R of the nose leads past a tiny tree and moves right into Laras Knockers

Trad 15m The You Yangs
13 The Watchtower

Follow crack system diagonally left until small roof is reached / 'Queen of Diamonds' is intercepted. Then right again and finish up 'Jack of Hearts'.

FA: L Baxx, Grant & Stephen Baxter, 6 Apr 2015

Trad 14m The You Yangs
16 Ayatollah Magoo

Around the corner and up the hill from Jack Of Hearts is a gully. This is the steep crackline on the right-hand end of the wall on the right side of the gully when facing uphill, about 1m left of Queensryche.

FA: Andrew Corlass & James Falla, 1986

Trad 6m The You Yangs
16 Queensryche

The arete 1m right of Ayatollah Magoo.

FA: Martin Lama & Hanut Singh-Dodd, 1990

Trad 10m The You Yangs
14 QueensTower

Set: Grant, 7 Aug 2015

Trad The You Yangs
5 The Lazy Yak

Start around right of "Tree In A Crack" on horizontal crack below "Royal Auto". From here; directly up until joins with "Lara".

FA: Grant, Stephen Baxter & L Baxx, 12 Mar 2016

Trad 12m The You Yangs
14/15 MM/B Linkup

Starts up 'Megs's Misfortune' until just before first bolt of 'Buckingham'. Tend diagonally up and join 'Buckingham' for second bolt and rest of climb. Take cams to protect crack and slings to extend.

Set: Grant

FA: Grant

Mixed tradProject 16m, 2 The You Yangs
17 Royalty Wall Traverse

Starts up "The Lazy Yak" until it joins "Lara". Out across wall past 2 BR's into "Megs's Misfortune". #2 BD Cam here then across wall past another 2 BR's then up to anchor. Large wires and BD cams to #2, or equivalent.

FA: L Baxx & Grant, 14 Mar 2016

Mixed trad 20m, 4 The You Yangs
10 L.T.

Climbs face between 'Tree in a Crack' and 'Lara'

FA: Grant, 26 Dec 2015

Trad 15m The You Yangs
15 Royal Pretender
Unknown 8m The You Yangs
18 Joker

FA: jamie armitage

Unknown 7m The You Yangs
5 Indiana Valley

FA: Grant, 6 Apr 2015

Trad 5m The You Yangs
19 The Royal Wave

FA: Grant, 6 Apr 2015

Trad 8m The You Yangs
23 Barely Legal

About 100m along the Great Circle Drive directly opposite gate in fence. Left trending diagonal crack line 10 m from the road uphill on right. May have been done before very obvious line.Contention about length FRA

Trad 7m The You Yangs

Showing all 26 routes.

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