Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Middle Marsh | |||||
V4 | ★ Nahaul Variant
Mantle direct is slightly harder. FA: MS | ||||
V5 | ★ Too Many Slopers
Starts 2m R of Nahaul, on and just L of arete. Standing start on bad slopers, and find a way to get your foot up onto the one good foothold FA: Steve Baskerville, 2002 | ||||
V5 | Too Many Slopers Direct
The direct sit-start of “Too Many Slopers”. FA: Alister Robertson | ||||
V7 | ★★ Too Many Slopers SS
Sit-start going L to join the start of “Too Many Slopers”. Now contrived and superseded by Alister's beta “Too Many Slopers Direct” but cool enough to include here. FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
V5 | Destiny's Child
Starts 1.5m L of Nahaul, on small sidepulls. Up to the jug out R, and then up and L to mantle. FA: SB & steve Baskerville, 2003 | ||||
V3 | ★ Girl’s Time
Up arête just R of corner to a solid mantle. Uses crack but not wall L of crack. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2003 | ||||
V6 | ★★★ Madi's Traverse
Start as for Nahaul and keep go L to finish above C on slopey holds. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2002 | ||||
V0 | ★ The Writing’s on the Wall
Corner crack from a sit or stand. FA: Macoc Sheehan, 2003 | ||||
V2 | ★ Pac-Man
Single move mantle problem. SS on block, mantle overhang on Slopers and good feet. FA: Kaspa Snoad, 2023 | ||||
V0 | ★ Dangun
The arete from the RH side. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2001 | ||||
V0 | Feveron
Arete from LH side. FA: Rod Marsh, 2001 | ||||
V1 | Over Analyzed
Face just R of arete, without using the arete. FA: SB, 2001 | ||||
Hands Free
The cool hands free slab just to the R of Disillusioned. | |||||
V3 | Disillusioned
Don't ever bother, but if say, everything else is being climbed: Very close to the ground. Undercut sit start off obvious slopey hold in front of small tree. Watch your feet. FA: SB, 2001 | ||||
The Snooze Boulders | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Insomnia
Sit start on jugs moving L on slopers. Watch your back on the block! FA: MS, 2013 | ||||
V1 | ★ No sleep to Brooklyn
Middle of face starting from opposing sidepulls. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 1999 | ||||
V2 | ★★ No Sleep To Brooklyn Variant
“No Sleep to Brooklyn” but eliminating the RH sidepulls. | ||||
V3 | ★ No Doze
Start low on jugs. Move up and left to join "No Sleep to Brooklyn” at the top FA: MS, 2013 | ||||
V2 | ★ Ambien
Mantle the slight bulge starting from a sit on the little arête. FA: MS, 1999 | ||||
V0 | Drowsy
The arete just R. Nice easy warm up with some great footwork. Move to middle of slab and mantle. FA: MS, 1999 | ||||
V1 | ★ Two Pointer
Standing start move directly up the middle of the face to finish. FA: Jack Van Hees, 14 Apr | ||||
Open Project
Possibly of Madoc's old projects that has been forgotten over time. Sit start and move directly up to finish on "two Pointer". | |||||
V6 | Wondergirl
Sit start in the middle of undercut slab. Move R to arete and up via hard last move. Easier in winter. FA: SB, 2001 | ||||
V2 | ★ Weight Gain
Sit or crouched start on arete off good edges, (final move of Wondergirl). Straight up. See also the "Unnamed #4 Standing Start". | ||||
V0 | Weight Gain Variant
The standing start to "Weight Gain" | ||||
V0 | Small Boi
Sit start following the obvious flake crack to finish. FA: Aaron Zealey, 22 Apr | ||||
V0 | Tango
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V5 | ★ Monster of Rock
Obvious sit start under the hanging flake. Up and steeply traverse R along the lip, moving round the corner and then mantling off the final good holds about a meter before the tree. FA: Adrian Bautze Geue, 2001 | ||||
V7 | Pulled Muscle Tendon
Start as for MOR, only takes the low traverse option after the first few moves. Big sideways move off the huge flake to small edges, then to jug. From jug continue as for MOR. FA: MS, 2002 | ||||
V0 | MoR Direct
Stand start near “ Monster of Rock” & “Pulled Muscle Tendon “ but go straight up. | ||||
V0- | ★ Hot Sauce
Nice short face. FA: MS, 1999 | ||||
V0 | Hello Nasty
Short problem up crunchy face, starting off low set of holds. FA: Deb Thorogood, 2001 | ||||
V0 | The Great Disappointment
Standing start, slap your way up the right-hand arete. FA: Kaspa Snoad, 22 Apr | 3m | |||
V1 | Hopeful arete
Sit-start, slap your way up the left-hand arete to easy finish. FA: Kaspa Snoad, 22 Apr | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Hope and Hindrance
Elimination problem: You may only use left arete as a starting hold for your left hand, right arete is completely out. Sit-start and move up through the middle of the face on flakes, reaching up and right to small sloper dish then pop to Jug to finish. FA: Aaron Zealey, 22 Apr | ||||
V2/3 | ★★ Hope and Hindrance Dyno
Same Sit-start as "Hope and Hindrance" but dyno directly to finish. Besides the initial starting hold, all other holds on the arete are out. FA: Kaspa Snoad, 22 Apr | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Charcoal Traverse
Fun lowball with great movements. Sit-start as far right as possible on crimps, then traverse left to final diagonal rail and mantle to finish. FA: Kaspa Snoad, 22 Apr | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Anticlimax
Standing start next to the tree, move directly up on crimps and slopers to finish. FA: Glen Hayford, 27 Apr | 3m | |||
Rubens’s Traverse
Standing start, establish yourself on the wall then traverse left and up to finish above “Anticlimax” FA: Ruben Roberts, 27 Apr | |||||
Flamethrower Project
| |||||
V3 | Blood
The best of the three. Low start under the obvious jugs. Bad rock. FA: Jason Shaw | ||||
V5 | ★★ Blood SS
Sit-start to “Blood” Left hand on small triangular crimp on face right hand on arete rail feature. Pull on and move directly up onto jugs to finish. FA: Glen Hayford, 2023 | ||||
V3 | Lactic Acid Pump
RH line. Sit start off nasty edges to a fun, (read grovel), mantle. FA: Jason Shaw | ||||
V4 | Pumpy Power Piece
Start near tree off crusty diagonal LH edge and small crimp for R. Pop R to slot and then move to big jugs. FA: Jason Shaw | ||||
V1 | AAA Battery
Sit-start juggy goodness, moving up and to the right to finish. FA: Kaspa Snoad, 2023 | ||||
V2 | AA Battery
Sit-start move directly up to finish FA: Kaspa Snoad, 2023 | ||||
V0 | Captain Chaos
Mantle into featured slab. FA: MS, 2001 | ||||
V0- | Orange Julius
Obvious easy flake crack. FA: MS, 2001 | ||||
V3 | Screaming Carrot Demon
Sit start at the base of the corner, (R side of the block). Move technically up and L onto the slab to finish at the flake crack. FA: MS, 2001 | ||||
V0 | Tangerine Tornado
Corner to the top. FA: SB, 2001 | ||||
V1 | ★ Corrupter and Theif
Contrived problem up wall just R of corner staying away from holds in the corner. FA: SB, 2001 | ||||
V0 | Arnold Lane
Arete R of corner from either side. FA: SB, 2001 | ||||
V0 | Wizard of Odd
Face R of arete. Many variations. FA: MS, 2001 | ||||
V0 | Slabaroo
Slab L of big blocks. FA: MS, 2001 | ||||
The Pass By Boulders | |||||
V0 | Wolf of the Cosmos
Traverse around to finish before the blocky gulley. | ||||
V0 | The Marble Downs
As “Wolf of the Cosmos” but do the full loop. | ||||
V3 | Ferrari in a Demolition Derby
Sit start just R of the tree (cramped). Tough start on slopes. | 3m | |||
V0 | Best Troubador
Sit start off good flakes to arete. | ||||
V4 | Funtown Comedown
RH pinch/LH pocket. Tough move to direct mantle. | 2m | |||
V0 | In Good Faith
Good slab and feature. | ||||
V0 | Squid Eye
Nice start. From the ledge finish L. | ||||
V0 | The Devil is People
Nice face with chunky holds. | 4m | |||
V1 | Joya
RH sidepull/LH undercling. Up slabby arete. | 3m | |||
V4 | Superwolf
From a good foothold, dynamic move up and L. See also “Superwolf Variant” | ||||
V2 | Superwolf Variant
From a good foothold, delicate move up and R. See also “Superwolf”. | 3m | |||
V8 | ★★★ The Nerd
An arete with fantastic body tension. | ||||
V0 | Duchess
Start underneath prominent jug. Finish R. See also ”Duchess Variant”. | 3m | |||
V1 | Duchess Variant
Start underneath prominent jug. Finish L. See also ”Duchess”. | 3m | |||
The Cow Paddock | |||||
V2 | Jug To Jug
Just L of The Lunge (when walking to The Cow Paddock). Up L from horizontal to jugs and straight up. FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
V2 | The Lunge
A short arête with the chunky undercling. | ||||
V2 | An Okay V2
An ok problem Right of Lunge. | ||||
V1 | ★ Ice Cream Man
Pocketed slab. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 1999 | ||||
V0 | ★ Ice Cream Topping
Starting at the LH end of the long vertical face, traverse R along the slopey top and finish at the flake at the RH end. Surprisingly tricky. FA: 2001 | ||||
V0- | Ice Cream Topping Variant
A variant of Ice Cream Topping. Mantle half way for an easier problem. | ||||
V4 | ★★ Another Cone Please
Starting in the middle of the wall off the small LH sidepull and tiny RH crimp. Tricky feet and then launch for the slopey top. Fingery Fun. FA: MS, 2001 | ||||
V5 | ★ Nasty Knob
Sit start on the short uphill arete (below the obvious hanging knob) with RH sidepull and lower of the two LH slopes. Fun. FA: SB, 2001 | ||||
V5/6 | Whining Shorties
Essentially Nasty Knob, without the RH sidepulls. Sit start below the horn, with the slopes at the base of the vague arête. Now go straight up via some small divots and slopes to gain the horn. Reachy last move. FA: SB, 2003 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Flappers For Free
Start sitting on the block below the short face and slab. Start 1.5m L of the tree, hanging off the LH arete and small crimp on the face. Up to hold on slab and finish moving up and L. FA: SB, 2001 | ||||
V3 | The 5 O'Clock Surprise
Mantle onto short slab using the one obvious good hold. Climb it at 5 O'clock and find out why. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2002 | ||||
V3 | ★★ Sneaky
Starts just R of the tree and up on slopey holds with a crux slap for the juggy flake. FA: MS, 1999 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Elastic
Straight up the dimpled face starting off sidepull and slopey pinches. FA: SB, 2001 | ||||
V0 | ★ It’s Five O’clock Somewhere
Up the obvious flake arête, starting off small blocks and step up to small underclings then follow the flake R. A good problem. For a variant start, see "Unnamed V4". FA: MS, 2000 | ||||
V4 | It’s Five O’clock Somewhere Variant
Start from ground off small holds (slopey crimps). FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Nick Off
LHV of CL, starting just L at better footholds, finishing via a great jug. Balancy goodness. FA: Nick Gust, 2000 | ||||
V2 | ★★ Creaking Limbs
Middle of the blank looking face below the hanging flake. Starts crouched off the obvious low handrail, up to flake. FA: Stuart Argent, 1999 | ||||
V2 | ★★ Miss Franjapenny
Sit start on the rocking boulder, then a single move dyno to the top. FA: SB, 2000 | 2m | |||
V3 | Bedraggled
Short, steep sit start below the obvious flake and up. Sharp. FA: SB, 2002 | ||||
V0 | Bedraggled Variant
Variant of Bedraggled - without the sit start. A pleasant problem. | ||||
V3 | ★ Kasia's Revenge
A short sit start with a tricky first move and actually easier for shorter people. FA: Jason Shaw, 2000 | ||||
V1 | ★ Plank cramper
SS on edges at lip single mantle move to easy top out FA: Glen Hayford, 25 Mar 2023 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Unnamed Traverse #1
Sit start at LH end of tiny bulge, moving R and topping out at highest point. FA: SB | ||||
V5 | Training Day
Start way around R and traverse L to the start of "Unnamed Traverse #1", and top out L. FA: SB | ||||
V4 | Training Day Reversed
Reverse direction of Training Day. | ||||
V4 | ★ Harry Houdini's Hand Holds
Starts 1m L of Bum Crack. Up from cluster of small edges to slopey pinch and a hard mantle. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2002 | ||||
V1 | ★★ Bum Crack
A balancy crack and face climbing to a slope at the top with a pleasant top out. Classic. See Bum Crack Sit Start for a slightly harder problem. FA: Madoc Sheehan, 1999 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Bum Crack Sit Start
Same as Bum Crack but with the obvious sit start. FA: Steve Baskerville, 2000 | ||||
V7 | Escape
Start as for "Bum Crack Sit Start", only go up and across diagonally L to finish up as for "Harry Houdini's Hand Holds", via a tough and thin traverse. FA: SB, 2003 | ||||
V6 | ★ The right cheek
Start 2m R of Bum Crack with a high slopey LH pinch, and a bad lower RH hold. Paste your feet and up to some slopes and a tricky mantle. Stack mats or blocks to reach the LH start hold if you are too short - see "The right cheek high start". FA: SB, 2003 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ The right cheek high start
Same as "The right cheek" but starting high with pads or blocks. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Pull Hard
Crank through steep wall from slopes on lip. Starts off the flake embedded in the ground. Alternatively start as "Pull Hard Variant 1"[1993001625], "Pull Hard Variant 2"[1993001625], or "Pull Hard Variant 3"[1993001736]. FA: MS, 1999 |