Routes in Townsville

Townsville's first 5.14! The king reigns supreme.

Sit-start just right of "Globalisation Left" on the low edge. One of Harvey's hardest problems. See the original guidebook for the starting holds.

An outstanding hard line.

Next level effort! The extension to Transcontinental, climb that route and keep cranking.

Slightly over hanging face, start on the lowest point of obvious rail (slightly flexing be careful). Definitely use a pad on the slab for when climber is topping out.

This is one of the original lines put up by Zimmerman. Original line used just the right layback seam, but would effectively make it an eliminate. the first move to the high layback puts you body in a position to use a compression move off of Reverie, then climbing both seams to the blank section. The Crux is from here to the top as originally described, But is considerably easier than the original grade of V9. Regardless, this is of equal quality to Reverie and is a must do. (Original description = Just to the R of "Highball #1" is a V9, with the crux at the top (start at the break and go up via lay offs to a thin section).)

The line up the 45degree wall with a big move to get to lip, easier terrain after. Take lots of pads.

Start on first boulders face to gain the bottom of the boulder sitting above, follow up crack like feature and up. Requires some commitment.

SS on LH flake. Powerful movements.

SS for “High Society”

Hard move on face with slab over the lip keeping it interesting, trends upward right on the slab. Might need to move some pads around. Another great line put up by Andy Lampard.

An inspiring line with powerful moves. Start off the obvious RH ear and the crystallised LH sidepull.

A mega classic! Start just R of "Skippy With a Smile" with your LH on a high pinch and RH on a terrible slopey scoop. Up via small holds and two hard moves. If you jump start to right hand razor and skip the hard static start it's a V8.

Face just right of Morning Glory following tricky gastons for a rounded mantle for top out. Watch your head on the large dead tree.

SS 1m L of ‘High Society” awaits a ropeless ascent. Super low start that traverses in from the L below ledge is an open project.

A clean line on exceptionally solid rock with intense crimps and pockets.

Slightly overhanging face climb on thin often chossy crimps. Two bolts and anchors added Jan 2018 for top half.

A direct start to Mainstage, one main boulder right into where it all kicks off. The start of the route isn't so hard.

True king line of Stuart, all the best parts mixed into one route! FFA was done from ground rather then from the anchors of P1 on Midlife Crisis.

The extension of Short Kraken.

Up to the double kneebar for a rest before last boulder problem.

About 25m further off the beach from "American Invasion #2" is a high cracked arête, and has a sloping slab to land on.

A V8 to the R of "American Invasion #1", a sit start off the pockets into the orange scoop.

A terrifying V8 somewhere in the bay.

Starting under overhung dihedral move up and left to the obvious rails, follow right to finish. Beautiful white rock.

Starting low, moving up the underclings. Shoot for the pocket on the right-hand side of the arete, then left and up the arete to finish.

Start with opposing sidepulls, up R to a terrible sloper and blast to the jugs.

Tips, underclings and tiny scoops - hard!

The obvious steep arête with two cruxes, the higher of which is pretty terrifying.

Super classic arête from the low start adds 4 moves (starting position shown in guidebook).

A broken foothold has made this a little harder. Sit start (you may need to crouch if you are too short) off LH pinch and RH crimp. Up via good edges with big moves. Classic.

The steep highball arête on the top L side of the boulder. Up via underclings and slopers to a crux rockover at about half height.

An arete with fantastic body tension.

Lower start to “Rice Bubbles” on side pull and low knob.

Sit-start the left-hand arete of the steepness. Starts with right-hand pinch and left-hand on arete. Up into Global. Two pads used for the sit-start on first ascent.

Add the sit-start, with the lower of the two left-hand sidepulls and a right-hand sidepull barely off the ground, for a tough, thin and sustained problem.

Crimpy sit start with diagonal LH and small RH. Straight up. Hard.

Much more than your average crimp ladder, several aesthetic rails and unlikely kneebars guide the way through this sustained quest.

Start as per Immortality (couple of small cams required) following it until the sloping ledge then continue straight up. Progressively harder moves with building pump culminating with an extremely thin crux at the last bolt.

A boulder problem on a rope, probably height dependant. Don't forget to clip!

Keep climbing past anchors of Revenge of the Pixies into hole and straight through roof.

Climb Burnt Ice and go way right and finish on Hyperbole

Climb Burnt Ice and go left through roof, get around the lip and finish up the face.

Words can't do this route justice. Undeniably a world-class, "you should travel here to do this" route. Starts with stickclipping the bolt a couple of metres right of Citizen Arcane. Technical slab/groove start to the Facebook-famous dyno. Motor up the crack and confront the "press". Seam section to monster pockets. An unforgettable finale to cap things off.

The first unbroken route through all of "Supernova Wall". King ling encompassing 50m of Fredericks finest rock. Up "Primosanity", then power through a tough boulder problem into "Hypernova". Only question is, are you insane enough to take on this monster?

start up Gomminator getting set in steep v groove then follow right line of u-bolts through a hard sequence boulder problem to finish on small ledge

Branch L off Spookeye p1. Find the key to the stopper start and be rewarded with brilliant pockets.

Break right from the 3rd bolt of MS to gain the corner. Funky crux through the roof to the engaging 3D groove above.

Straight up the white streak

Access via 35m rap from bolts above Lionsgate. Exceptionally steep and pumpy by Stuart standards.

Start as "Gone in 60 Seconds" then trend left at the FH half way up.

The thin suspect crack 1m left of Gone in Sixty Seconds straight up to join into the crux of Portrait. Take up to size 1 Camalot and 7 draws. Have a solid belayer you trust from crack to first bolt is commiting.

Starting a few metres right of Neurofriend.

The bolts just to the L of Vice Grip.

Straight up after the 2 bolts to get on the starting ledge of Rampage.

DS to OMF flowing through a variety of interesting sequences.

The "Supernova" extension! After the crux, step L and keep on pumping which makes it longer and more full-on. Brutal!

An upper pitch route. Starts at MN's first belay. Up R past four bolts, then a traverse out R onto super exposed overhanging wall. Devious bouldery crux then pumpy jugging up right to top out the wall.

Extension to Kneebar Nexus. Battle onward through final core intensive section. Break out onto steep juggy terrain some 50m off the deck. Power through top roof on superb holds to triumph atop Supernova Wall. Redirect through Kneebar Nexus anchor to avoid being trapped dangling out in space.

8m right of Cognition. Up to ledge, then follow pillar to the unrelenting rail. No forgiveness for the unrepentant.

The shorter version of The Kraken.

Sit start

From the jugs, throw big to the tiny slanting crimps. Crank and commit to the easier slab finish.

Stand start on slopey pockets, straight up to tough and slopey mantle, reminiscent of Castle hill. Classic!

Route grade, name and description may need revising.

Up the runnel to the sidepull and slopey topout.

Start matched on obvious rail, head straight right then up.

The gently bulging face on the Middle Brother, the shortest of the three boulders. A highball on perfect granite. It starts with steep and powerful moves off a chunky, in-cut flake, followed by a series of vertical cranks on small but positive edges, which guard the crux mantle onto a slopey narrow rail at two-thirds height. Blankness and weirdness above the rail gets you to a thin seam just below the more amenable top-out. It's one of Harvey's aesthetic highball jewels.

On the other side of this boulder from "Epitome of a Man". SS off the block.