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First Birthday Groove All Trad climbing 4 routes in area

Grade context: AU
Ascents: 3

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Access issues inherited from West Cape Howe

The 4WD track can vary greatly in condition. A shovel may be needed to fill in some of those holes!

Ethic inherited from West Cape Howe

There is no established ethic. The usual WA ethics towards bolting apply, and all bolts should be placed with careful consideration, and definitely not used to replace natural pro.

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Routes

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Good exposed climbing on a nice clean wall. Excellent rock, well protected and enjoyable at the grade. Abseil 50m from the top of the Sunshine Superman wall just north of The Supergroove at the 2 hex bolts on the boulder that caps the wall. Looking down from the top of the overhang you will see a large flake system. When you pass an eyebolt after 30m or so trend north slightly to the staircase ledges and belay on large cams. Pitch 1, 30m. Up the blocky crack system and past a series of horizontal breaks to a curving fingercrack and bolt (crux). Belay just after this on the ledge to the right. Pitch 2, 20m. Step left from the belay and head straight up the wall on thin protection to finish directly through the small roof. J. O Herlihy, K. Hartley, M. Rosser. Feb. 11

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wch-new-routes/