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Supergroove All Trad climbing 12 routes in area

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 49
12
AU
11131517192123

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Summary

DANGER a major rockfall occured on Blunt but Nosey in January 2022 and neighbouring routes may also have been destabilsed. Please keep away from this area until it has been assessed.

Access issues inherited from West Cape Howe

The 4WD track can vary greatly in condition. A shovel may be needed to fill in some of those holes!

Ethic inherited from West Cape Howe

There is no established ethic. The usual WA ethics towards bolting apply, and all bolts should be placed with careful consideration, and definitely not used to replace natural pro.

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Routes

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1
18 ★ Let Their Boyfriends Sort It Out Trad 50m, 2

(i) (18) Start as for A Shot At Redemption, move delicately up and over the arête (crux), then step left onto the face. Follow the aesthetic meandering crack up the face to belay ledge. (ii) (15) Continue up large blocks to finish.

FA: Rob Kettels & Adam Straw, 25 Oct 2014

2
19 ★ Gorilla Grip Trad 50m

Start as for a shot at redemption, following pinch flakes to arête which is turned on the left. Follow wall left of arête (avoiding crack of let them sort it out) to ledge using horizontals for gear. To top as for 'a shot..'

FA: Graeme thomson, rachel & rachel thomson

3
19 ★★ A Shot at Redemption Trad 50m

Warning Rock: DANGER - MAJOR ROCKFALL RISK

4
15 ★ Renaissance Trad 55m
5
23 ★ Blunt But Nosey Mixed trad 55m, 2, 2

Warning Rock: DANGER - MAJOR ROCK FALL RISK

6
11 Exelsior Trad 45m

One of the first routes done at West Cape Howe, and perhaps a little sandbagged. Climb the offwidth/chimney width crack immediately left of Planar Craving. This route is often wet and very slimy.

7
21 ★★★ Planar Craving Mixed trad 50m, 5

Warning Rock: DANGER - MAJOR ROCKFALL RISK

Classic! Climb up steepening slab using small cracks and flakes for protection. This climb gets harder as you get higher. Finish at hanging DBB.

FFA: D. Wagland, R. Muhlen-Schulte & S. Richardson, 1990

8
21 ★★ Mystery Mixed trad 50m, 7

Seven bolts and a few bits of gear. Similar to Planar Craving but climb on right side of slab. Excellent finish up the steep headwall.

FFA: G. Brysland, 1992

9
16 Excalibur Trad 55m
10
18 ★★★ Plumb Jamb Trad 70m, 2

Follow left trending weaknesses ad cracks to obvious large horizontal crack and construct belay. Climb up vertical cracks to cave and skirt out rightwards.

11
18 ★ Fig Jamb Trad 35m

Start as for plumb Jamb then go right and through roof rather than escaping left. continue up seam until about 2m lower than the plumb Jamb belay ledge. Place extended pro then traverse back and finish as for Plumb Jamb.

FA: Trent Charleson & Tom Wiltshire

12
22 ★★★ Didi Wa Didi Mixed trad 70m, 2, 2

Hangers required for bolts.

Pitch 1 (22) 45m: Start up crack to the right of Plumb Jamb. Move right and up steepening wall. Avoid large horizontal breaks on arete until you meet the arete.

Pitch 2 (14) 25m: Up easy ground to top. Loose blocks

FFA: R. Muhlen-Schulte & D. Wagland, 1990

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Fri 28 Apr
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