Ascents in Eldorado as Tick

This route almost killed me, but not in a fun 'oh its such a battle way'. I mean it is a dangerous route with tons of loose rock. A suitcase sized chunk broke off under my leader and I was very close to being hit (and probably killed) by it. Thankfully I just caught a chunk and escaped with a busted thumb. I managed to struggle up the route still and saw lots of other loose flakes that are ready to pop off. I would not recommend this route unless it's carefully cleaned first. The actual climbing was OK but not outstanding. certainly not up there with eternity as claimed in the guidebook. The second pitch really sucks. War of roses, cactus, and especially sizzler we did the day before at coke ovens were far superior climbs. Also an extra bit of fun is the tree belays were not looking too solid after the fires so we had to wander along the loose sand on the Ridge to the belay station at the top of flamingo (or possibly the next climb across). I think the whole crag is not ready for climbing yet, the approach took us about an hour too.

A quality high for the layback and stemming aficionados. An interesting and welcoming crux down low should be thought of as a trailer for the movie above. Rest up in the cave, mind all the loose flaky stuff, find some good rock to place the gear, make sure them bigger cams are sitting in the front of the harness and then start swimming up this beautiful crack whilst listening to the echo of your heart in The Wide. With every meter gained you will realize that this isn't your average grade 17 but stick with it, they have a name for such formidable excursions, "Character building".

Gear recommendation hint: Doesn't need anything bigger than a #4 camalot. Carry multiples of 3s and 4s, the precise number ranging in preference to the quality and quantity of the 'metamorphosis' experience.

Fell on second pitch in layback handed lead over

such a good climb - the guide book says like 2 eternities on top of each other and it's true! Make sure you find the right track for the approach though (we did not) as it gets really sketchy and steep otherwise..

Climbs better than it looks. Worth doing.

Absolute classic. One of the best routes in the Wolgan

too freaked from cymbeline experience, pete led both pitches

great first pitch, shithouse (Deathtrap) secondpitch. freaked me out for the rest of the day

too good for words