Ascents in Eldorado

Desperate start (21) with crap gear, Classic middle 40m. Crap last pitch. Got rained on from 1st belay so was a bit scary sliding on that slippy ironstone at top- lucky ther's bomber jams. Take a full rack and more! #5 cam may help on wide section to make it less scary.

bit loose, very dirty, needed some trees, bushes and boulders yank out on the way. Lots of big cams needed. Slinging the big flake before committing to the offwidth is a bit scary!

needed a bit of cleaning and gardening and bi cams but pretty exciting thrash up a wide crack.

This route almost killed me, but not in a fun 'oh its such a battle way'. I mean it is a dangerous route with tons of loose rock. A suitcase sized chunk broke off under my leader and I was very close to being hit (and probably killed) by it. Thankfully I just caught a chunk and escaped with a busted thumb. I managed to struggle up the route still and saw lots of other loose flakes that are ready to pop off. I would not recommend this route unless it's carefully cleaned first. The actual climbing was OK but not outstanding. certainly not up there with eternity as claimed in the guidebook. The second pitch really sucks. War of roses, cactus, and especially sizzler we did the day before at coke ovens were far superior climbs. Also an extra bit of fun is the tree belays were not looking too solid after the fires so we had to wander along the loose sand on the Ridge to the belay station at the top of flamingo (or possibly the next climb across). I think the whole crag is not ready for climbing yet, the approach took us about an hour too.

great first pitch, shithouse (Deathtrap) secondpitch. freaked me out for the rest of the day

too freaked from cymbeline experience, pete led both pitches

such a good climb - the guide book says like 2 eternities on top of each other and it's true! Make sure you find the right track for the approach though (we did not) as it gets really sketchy and steep otherwise..

too good for words

Fantastic climbing on P1.

Climbed a fantastic crack up and right of Cymbeline, hoping it was a new route. Presume it is this route though, as the crack is cleaned and had a cairn at the start.

A quality high for the layback and stemming aficionados. An interesting and welcoming crux down low should be thought of as a trailer for the movie above. Rest up in the cave, mind all the loose flaky stuff, find some good rock to place the gear, make sure them bigger cams are sitting in the front of the harness and then start swimming up this beautiful crack whilst listening to the echo of your heart in The Wide. With every meter gained you will realize that this isn't your average grade 17 but stick with it, they have a name for such formidable excursions, "Character building".

Gear recommendation hint: Doesn't need anything bigger than a #4 camalot. Carry multiples of 3s and 4s, the precise number ranging in preference to the quality and quantity of the 'metamorphosis' experience.

Old school grunt

First pitch is RAD!! Which is the only real reason I can excuse the sorry second half...!! Great day out in the valley.

Better if P2 wasnt choss.

p1.

w-ad

w-ad, led p2

Absolute classic. One of the best routes in the Wolgan

Climbs better than it looks. Worth doing.

Fell on second pitch in layback handed lead over

Incredible climb. Crack that kept going with feet outside the crack (on ironstone layers) providing ample rest. Rene led pitch one, and ill have to come back to lead it. Truly like two eternities on top of each other! I led Pitch 2, which was more on the face. well protected most of the way, but a cactus and funnel-webs started to impose on holds and placements around halfway up. Placed two last bits of gear and ran it out on the top on thin holds that thankfully didn't break. one of my boldest leads so far!

Quality climbing with good gear. Clean and dry when everything else at the crag were very dirty.

Classic guide book author tooting his own horn, or perhaps just trolling gumbies from beyond the grave - a real dick williams move. 2 eternities? That's linguistically impossible.

Approach was cooked, as was descent. P1 was okay despite the near death experience but I guess that's 'Welcome to the Bluey's' for ya? A mild form of hazing? P2 was gross. Maybe I goofed it, but went straight up when twin cracks veered right. Run out on shit rock above shit gear. Not even totems could save us.

The top is a sandy, post-apocalyptic, charred, deathscape with loads of boulders and tree ready to hurl themselves and us off the cliff. Thankfully no one else was there-rocks were even falling without human intervention. Paranormal activity? Nightmare? Least fav climb ever? Today goes by many names.